I don't know if I covered this in the previous review about previous model because I can't read, but the Toyota Land Cruiser J150 and J120 are not the regular, "full fat" Land Cruisers, but the light, child-friendly versions, also known as the Land Cruiser Prado. The regular Land Cruiser comes with serious off-road kit and proper engines, but also structural rigidity and is much better built for rough off-road than for tarmac. In other words, just like the Pajero, the regular Land Cruiser is like a wheelbarrow. Very good on rough terrain and especially on sand dunes, but quite weak on the road.

And here comes the Land Cruiser Prado with the same velocity with which Jeremy Clarkson's fist entered Pier Morgan's face, to calculate the kinetic force released, we consider that the surface area of ​​Piers Morgan's face is 266 square centimeters. The Land Cruiser Prado or Toyota Land Cruiser J150 comes with engines under 3 litre capacity and is more adapted to on-road and light to medium off-road, than the Land Cruiser usual business. Don't get me wrong, it's not as clumsy off-road as a Stelvio, because the Land Cruiser 150 also has a ladder frame chassis, transfer case, independent suspension and full of bonuses, but it also comes with satnav, a panoramic roof, an automatic transmission and the option of not having a spare tire holder on the tailgate.

Otherwise, the Land Cruiser 150 is more of an evolution and a massive facelift of the old 120 that it is retiring, the only real involution is that the fuel tanks have decreased from 180L to 150L capacity, because the Land Cruiser Prado is capable of serious work but too few use it for serious work. It remains a reliable car and remains a true Land Cruiser, even in this era of consumerism, and in 2015 it also gets rid of the only brown spot on its CV, namely the 3-liter 1KD-FTV diesel and introduces a 2.8 diesel that would remain the Toyota diesel village bicycle.

Toyota Land Cruiser J150 Engines

Petrol

• 2.7 i-4 7TR-FE of 161 horsepower – It has no specific reliability issues, the only specific problem on the Land Cruiser is the Land Cruiser itself. This engine drags the Land Cruiser the same way I drag myself to work after getting drunk like a regular pig at the local pub. But at least it's reliable.
• 4.0 V6 1GR-FE of 280 horsepower – If you live somewhere around Abu Dhabi and need a road car and don't really need all that much torque to drive through the desert, this engine is excellent. Otherwise it is the classic, legendary 1GR-FE so apart from the oil consumption that appears later in life, you have nothing specific to worry about.

Diesel

• 2.8D 1GD-FTV of 177 and 204 horsepower – 2015 brings the new 2.8 1GD-FTV and it has no specific problems. It has more power and comes into action earlier, at 1600-2400 rpm instead of 1800-3200 rpm like the previous engine. Basically, the 2.8 engine is just an evolution of the previous engine, but a correct evolution. And this should be the only engine that Toyota sells in Europe. Some engines did have some timing chain issues, but that's it. It's a miles ahead engine over the previous unit.
• 3.0D 1KD-FTV of 173 and 190 horsepower – The old 1KD-FTV with cracked pistons, cut hands, cut legs, yellow baking, injectors, and many other issues. You would think that the Land Cruiser is indestructible and you would be right. But not with this engine. I know, people will jump in the comments like lice from their foreheads and say that they drove 700,000 km with this engine and did not change anything. Not even the fuel. But it is best to be cautious with this engine.

Toyota Land Cruiser J150 Reliability Issues

• As mentioned earlier, the Land Cruiser 150 has a ladder frame chassis, basically it has a chassis over a chassis. Very good for off-road rigidity, but it weighs between 10 and 14 tons and will torture the brakes, tires, suspension, fuel economy and so on. The Land Cruiser Prado is reliable but not cheap to run. Its bigger brother, the Land Cruiser 200s, costs 100,000 euros in 8 years of use, according to estimates by the local council. Sure, a Prado 2.8D won't have such galactic costs but it's still no Corsa in terms of maintenance costs.
• It is a work and off-road vehicle so on the asphalt it is far from the last word. Even if it is the street version of the Land Cruiser, it is still a very capable car on rough terrain and in general cars that come with a ladder chassis and off-road toys like the Land Cruiser will be very good off-road but weak on road and they will not be the last word in terms of comfort because they simply aren't built for it. Of course, comments will jump out like lice from the forehead and they will say that the Land Cruiser is much more luxurious and comfortable than the 7 Series, Bentley Bentayga, S Class, Rolls Royce Phantom and possibly all of them combined.

Toyota Land Cruiser J150 Verdict

The Land Cruiser J150 is not necessarily a new car as much as it is a serious and correctly executed facelift. The aesthetic differences are minimal compared to the J120, but they worked a lot on the underside. Basically, a kind of automotive Ye who worked a lot on the inside. 

Which engines do I recommend? For gasoline, the 4.0 V8 1GR-FE with 280 horsepower, but realistically the 2.8D with 177 or 204 horsepower is all the engine you'll ever need here in Europe.

Which is very strange for the Toyota Verso AR20. Toyota is a manufacturer focused on mainstream, regular and practical cars. They have small city cars like the Yaris, they have family cars like the Auris and Avensis, they also have SUVs like the Rav4 or the Land Cruiser, but they don't really have minivans here in Europe. They had the Yaris Verso and the regular Verso and that's about it. In fact, I quickly browsed the Toyota website and currently they don't have any minivans for sale. And the Yaris is a special case because the Yaris was an experimental car for Toyota. They turned it into a crossover, they turned it into a minivan, they turned it into a sports car, they tested their hybrid systems on it. Just like napkins or lubricant, the Toyota Yaris was used for more purposes than the original one.

And then we have the Toyota Verso AR20. A minivan based on the Corolla and which no one bought. Which is odd, since the Corolla is the world's best selling car. Yes, of course, somewhere later the BMW engine also appears. Yes, sure, the Toyota Verso AR20 was the safest MPV of its time. But we actually have such a boring combination of car elements that codeine seem like Red Bull in comparison. First of all, we have a boring brand, Toyota. Second of all, we have a boring automotive genre, the MPV. If you combine the two, you get the automotive equivalent of the generic radio music you subconsciously listen to in the morning traffic. It's like watching a documentary about trees. Very good and quality content, but so boring that it makes me fall alseep. And even if I fell asleep at the wheel of a Verso, the chances of dying are slim.

Toyota Verso AR20 Engines

Petrol

• 1.6 1ZR-FE Valvematic of 132 horsepower – The entry level engine, which no one bought. Which is easy to understand, because putting this engine to drive the 7-seater version as cramped as you would expect it to be is like putting Shaq inside to drive. It's not going to work out very well.
• 1.8 2ZR-FE Valvematic 147 horsepower – The only petrol engine with an automatic transmission and again it was avoided by buyers more than vegans avoid black pudding. Pay close attention to the Valvematic unit, which can cost half the value of the car when it breaks. Not “if”, but “when” it breaks.

Diesel

• 1.6 D-4D 1WW of 112 horsepower - This engine is a variation of BMW's N47 engine and I wouldn't bother with it at all. Timing chain issues, timing chain which sits at the back of engine so it's an engine out job, and it's so small for the Verso, you might aswell power it with a phone charger.
• 2.0 D-4D 1AD-FTV of 126 horsepower – On the Toyota Verso AR20 you have the opportunity to catch the last train with the legendary 2.0 D-4D engine. An ancient, reliable and capable engine. An old-fashioned engine, but which was retired by emissions regulations. A great shame.
• 2.2 D4-D 2AD-FTV and 2AD-FHV of 150 and 177 horsepower – Here you have to take care of the engines as if you just arrived at the Luton airport and you have to watch out for your wallet, phone, purse, wig, teeth, footwear, any type of wear, and you yourself. The 2.2 D-4D 150 horsepower engine is fine, but the 2.2 D-CAT 177 horsepower is famous for cylinder head gasket cracking and all the fun costs about 2 grand. That's why Rav4s with this engine are so cheap.

Toyota Verso AR20 Reliability Issues

• The electrically operated parking brake will leave you stranded, just like that girl who said we should meet up romantically by the Cole river and never showed up did. But at least I fished a boot. I cooked it. I ate it. Still better than cafeteria food.
• The steering column is another common issue with Toyotas from this period, so you will need to prepare yourself metaphysically, spiritually, and especially financially.
• It's not the best soundproofed car possible, so you'll hear what's going on outside the car quite loudly, starting at speeds of 15 mph. If the Toyota Verso AR20 can handle such speeds.

Toyota Verso AR20 Verdict

I don't understand why the Verso didn't take off in Europe. We have the most family-friendly car from the most family-friendly car manufacturer. Even the BBC1 is not as family-friendly as the Toyota Verso. So then why nobody bought?

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol, probably the 1.6 naturally aspirated with 132 horsepower, but most likely you will go for the 2.0 D-4D diesel and it's 126 horsepower because it's the most balanced engine for the first gen Verso.

No, the story doesn't begin in 1991 when VW bought Seat, because that story begins with the first Toledo, but the Seat Arosa was the spiritual successor to the Seat Marbella, which was a Fiat Panda with a different badge and which was related to the first Ibiza, one of the first cars built under VW's tutelage but not entirely German.

And the Arosa?

The Seat Arosa is not 100% German either, but it has nothing Seat and that 2% missing is the 1.0 petrol engine which is from Skoda, because VW bought Skoda in 1991 and they needed to make a difference between Lupo and Arosa. Because Arosa is a Lupo with a different badge and less features. And Lupo comes from VW's need to create a smaller Polo, because the Polo from back then had become too fat and too big, so they took the Polo platform and shortened it. Basically, the Polo from back then had become too big, considering that a Polo today is about the size of a Golf IV and that's probably why we have the VW Up! / Skoda CitiGO / Seat Mii today, which are about as big/small as Lupo/Arosa. And no, there were plans for the Skoda version but the Skoda Lupo was cancelled and it never happened.

So what expectations should we have from the car that was designed by the same guy who designed the Bugatti Veyron. Essentially we have a shortened VW Polo / Skoda Fabia / Seat Ibiza platform, which only came in 2 doors and with acres of windows so that you could drive it and it seemed incredibly easy in the city. And the differences between the Arosa and the Lupo are the classic ones, generally in terms of equipment and a few engines, the most important difference being the 1.2 TDI engine on the Lupo 3L, which did not make it to the Arosa. Yes, it's exactly what it sounds like, no the Lupo 3L did not have a 3-liter engine, but it had a consumption of 3 liters of diesel per hundred km. And the Arosa did not receive that treatment, so you will have to somehow live with a consumption of 4 liters per hundred km, for the 1.4 TDI engine, and probably 5 liters per hundred km for the 1.0 gasoline engine and insufficient horsepower.

Besides that, there are other engines missing from the Lupo, but which you didn't really need. The 1.4 FSI engine is missing, which is the old 1.4 MPI but more demanding, and the GTi version with the 1.6 petrol engine and 125 horsepower is also missing. But if you're looking for a simple city car, you don't need these two engines anyway.

The problem was that in 2004 he was retired but he didn't have children, because VW decided they wouldn't continue the Lupo line and came up with the Fox, so the Arosa didn't have a sequel until 2012 when the Seat Mii appeared.

And then comes the soft one - Seat;s own Ibiza. Because in 2025, a Seat Arosa costs the same or more than an Ibiza, and the Ibiza has 2 or 4 doors, comes with about the same engines and more (including the delicious 1.9 TDI) and has a bigger trunk. The only real argument is that you have acres of windows and it's much easier to drive and park.

Seat Arosa Engines

Petrol

• 1.0 MPi AHT of 50 horsepower - This is not the VW engine. This is not the VW engine. This is not the VW engine. In reality, it is the 1.0 HTP engine from Skoda, a relative of the 1.2 HTP used on the Fabia. Because VW had just bought Skoda and they said why not? But I don't recommend you buy it, except for short city trips at most, because it's incredibly slow. In fact, here's a short list of things faster than the Seat Arosa 1.0 gasoline - Sleepy Joe, VW Caddy 2.0 SDI, a stone, Robert Loggia spelling out his own name, and the elevator when you're in a hurry to get home because you're pooping yourself. In that order.
• 1.4 EA111 of 60 and 101 horsepower - The 60 horsepower has 8 valves per cylinder and is the only engine with a 4-speed automatic transmission as an option, and the 101 horsepower version has 16 valves. And it is the best engine for the Seat Arosa, because it is decently fast in the 60 bhp version and proper quick in the 101 bhp version, and it is also decently reliable, being used intensively on the Polo / Ibiza / Fabia / Golf / Octavia / I'm sure I forgot something.

Diesel

• 1.4 TDI AMF of 75 horsepower - I don't necessarily understand why you would want a diesel Arosa, but at least you can use this one around town because it's Euro 3 and there's no particulate filter or EGR sensitive to city driving. The only real problem is that maintenance is more expensive than for a petrol engine, and fuel economy isn't that great because the Arosa is economical regardless of the engine choice.
• 1.7 SDI AKU of 60 horsepower - The second slowest engine after the 1.0 MPi, and marginally faster than the 1.4 60 horsepower petrol engine in the automatic version, you at least have this engine for life, or as long as the city council allows you to drive this real wood-burning power plant on wheels. Because the technology is from about the same period.

Seat Arosa Reliability Issues

• Electrical gremlins which translate to everything that involves cables, wires and plugs. The cables from the power windows in particular are affected.
• Door hinges give way over time and the doors will inevitably sag, but they will never bend their knees.
• It was a budget car back then and it's still a budget car today, so maintenance has suffered and you have every chance of buying what's left of an Arosa.

Seat Arosa Verdict

Maybe a Lupo vs Polo comparison would work, but the Arosa is a much rarer car and costs the same on the used market as the Ibiza and I don't necessarily understand why you would pay more for less. Sure, with a Porsche 911 GT3 RS or a Ferrari 360 Scuderia I understand why you would pay more for less car, but the Arosa? So my verdict is buy an Ibiza. 

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol power and overall I recommend the 1.4 and 75 horsepower petrol engine, and for diesel you have the 1.4 TDI with 75 horsepower but then again, do you really need a diesel Arosa?

Seat Mii? As the great Bruce Lee said - "I'm not afraid of the car manufacturer that launches 10,000 cars at once. I'm afraid of the manufacturer that launches the same car 10,000 times". It's just that Seat Mii somehow came in the luggage with Skoda CitiGO and VW Up!, because that's the tradition. Octavia with Leon and Golf, the Fabia with the Polo and the Ibiza, Tiguan and Ateca and Kodiaq, Touareg and nothing and nothing, Amarok and nothing and nothing. And Seat Mii - Skoda CitiGO - VW Up!, only there is no difference between them except the badge, because they were assembled in the same place, by the same people. And yet there are some differences.

What are the major differences?

A lot of cars for sale are two-doors, basically an updated Arosa. In fact, that was kind of the idea of ​​the triplet, to come and replace the old Lupo / Arosa and the old Fox. And because the Mii was mainly restricted to Spain, people took it as the successor to the Arosa and that's why you find a lot of two-doors. And not just two-doors, but a lot of them are aesthetically modified to the ricer level. Which is good, because it was a privately owned car and it didn't necessarily make late-night food deliveries to some drunk students, but the downside is that if the car had a ricer treatment, it was probably driven by some young people with no money but with a lot of enthusiasm.

And the minor differences?

• It was pretty much limited to the European market, especially in the west and very far to the west, close to the beach, so it was the least sold of the 3.
• It didn't get a facelift and didn't get a special fascia for the electric version, unlike the VW Up! which also got a facelift and a special grille for the electric version, and the Skoda CitiGO which also got a facelift. And the Seat Mii? Nada.
• It didn't get the 1.0 TSI engine nor any GTi equipment, because otherwise no one would buy the Up! and they needed a reason to sell it.
• The first car in its class, along with Up! and CitiGO, to come with automated emergency braking in the city.

Seat Mii Engines

Engines

• 1.0 MPI EA211 CHYA and CHYB of 60 and 75 horsepower - For a city car like the Mii, you don't need more and you can also live with the low power version. Just pay attention to the oil consumption because it's an EA211, but at least it is compensated by the decent fuel economy. Ah yes, and avoid hills because you have nothing to tackle the hill with.
• 1.0 MPI EA211 CPGA 67 horsepower - Yes, there was also a CNG version, but I don't necessarily recommend it because it also eats from your bootpsace, you have nowhere to refuel and you don't have many places where you can service the CNG installation.

Electric

1 electric engine of 80 horsepower - I made this joke in the CitiGO review and I'll say it again. The Seat Mii EV is like a well-paid job. You've heard of it, but you've never seen one.

Seat Mii Reliability Issues

• It's the budget version of a budget car, no matter how Spanish it may appear. That means exposed paint, exposed sheet metal. And the boot is as deep as your pockets when you were patient enough to buy a Seat Mii, except it doesn't have a tray because if you wanted a tray, you'd get a VW Up!. Or you can just straight up buy a tray.
• And since we're talking about the boot, you'll be absolutely shocked to learn that the boot space is as generous as the budget for this online septic tank.
• There's also an automatic transmission that's actually an automated manual, but I'll call it ASG because that's what the brochure says. And it's better to keep it in the brochure, because you don't want it. Also, the manual transmission's shifter creaks the same way you creak when you get out of bed. You're one step away from having to go to the bathroom every morning at 6, only that you wake up at 8.

Seat Mii Verdict

The Seat Mii was supposed to be the third wheel of the wagon but it somehow went its own way and carried on the Arosa torch with dignity. And because I have to distinguish it from two other cars that are effectively identical, I would say that the only real reason to buy a Mii is because there are more with two doors instead of four. Don't get too excited tho, as there are currently 3 Miis on sale instead of 7 Skoda CitiGOs. But if you don't need the rear doors and you found one at a decent price, then the Seat Mii is worth a look. But you are unlikely to find it.

Which engines do I recommend? You have one engine to choose from really, 60 or 75 horsepower, and both are sufficient for your needs. Just don't do your business at 6 in the morning, when you wake up at 8.

Launched in 2011, the Skoda CitiGo - VW Up! - Seat Mii trio was supposed to replace the old Seat Arosa - VW Lupo pair and somehow replace the old Fox, so they went to work. We have three excellent city cars, which were cheap and decently equipped for what they offered and were even a success on the European market.

How is CitiGO different from Up! and Mii and why should I go buy a CitiGO?

• It received a facelift and an electric version, but it didn't have a GTI version, nor the TSI engines with proper muscles.
• The Skoda CitiGO was also designed for the Asian and CIS markets but remained only in Europe because it was considered too small, but it still received a facelift.
• Along with the Up! and the Mii, they were the first cars in their class to feature automatic emergency braking in the city.
• The VW Up! was a victim of its own success and was heavily bought for 3 am kebab delivery work by students and corporate workers who were drunk and hungry, so in today's car market you have a good chance of buying a delivery car. A car driven by an 18 year old kid, with or without a license, who was paid by the number of deliveries he made so he drove it as aggressively as possible because it wasn't his car anyway. The Skoda CitiGO on the other hand was somehow avoided by fast food industry and was mainly bought by private buyers, usually 60+, so you have a better chance of finding less shabby cars.

Who is the CitiGO going up against?

• You will be surprised, but not unlike the Up! and definitely not by the Mii because no one bought it. It's just that at the time I wrote this review, the Up! started at around 1800 euros and the Skoda CitiGO at around 2000 euros, but the Up! tends to have much higher mileage, almost double. But there was a daredevil out there who had a 2014 Up! for sale, for 1990 euros, but it had 382,000 km on the clock. That means that 1. There are still crazy people in this world and 2. The car can technically do that. Yes, there is also a 2015 CitiGO with 278,000 km on the clock for 1490 euros, but in general the CitiGO has 50-70,000 km less than an Up! that costs the same.
• The Fiat Panda is probably the CitiGO's most dangerous enemies because in terms of price it sits between the Fabia and the CitiGO, but the Panda is just as good in the city if not better. Simple, reliable petrol engines, power steering so light that even Kathy Bates has to be careful how she uses it so as not to break it, the gearshift mounted up high on the dashboard and the large interior space make the Panda a serious rival for the CitiGO. In fact, many people who bought the CitiGO did so only because their old Panda got too old.
• Skoda Fabia - Sure, you can spend another 1000 euros and buy a Fabia 1.2 petrol, but 1000 euros is already 50% more than the CitiGO. And for a strictly city car and an occasional ride, the Skoda CitiGO is better suited than the Fabia, the only real difference being the trunk, but the CitiGO wins in terms of passenger space.
• Citroen C1 / Toyota Aygo / Peugeot 107 - These three would be the most direct rivals for the Skoda CitiGO / VW Up! / Seat Mii triplet and the basic argument would be that the Japanese triplet is more reliable but is more cramped and worse equipped than the German triplet. If you want practicality and reliability and you don't care about features, go with the Japanese. If you want real windows and not a piece of plastic as a rear window, go with the Germans.

Skoda CitiGO Engines

Petrol

• 1.0 MPI EA211 CHYA and CHYB of 60 and 75 horsepower - The only engine you will realistically find on the CitiGO and it is a decent engine for the city and for occasional rides outside the city. On the other hand, it does not climb hills so you will have to push the clay up the hill yourself. And it has the classic problems of oil consumption and timing chain, but overall it is an absolutely decent engine with which you get your job done around the city in an absolutely decent way.
• 1.0 MPI EA211 CPGA 67 horsepower - Yes, there is also a CNG version and I occasionally get questions about CNG and personally I do not recommend this version because we have 10 CNG stations across the country and you also lose the little space in the trunk that you have anyway.

Electric

Single engine of 80 horsepower - Skoda CitiGO EV is like a well-paid job. Everyone talks about it, but you've never seen it.

Skoda CitiGO Reliability Issues

• The equipment levels were quite modest, worthy of college dorms. Because it was a cheap car and I still remember that you could buy a new CitiGO for 6 grand. Yes, I'm that old.
• The boot space is nonexistent, but on top of that, it also comes without a tray and without a light bulb, and the paint isn't the best quality there either.
• The ASG robotic gearbox, and in the case of the manual gearbox, the shifter creaks as loudly as your mother's bed, according to the opinions of those on the internet you're arguing with.

Skoda CitiGO Verdict

Definitely worth buying if you want a strictly city car, at most for an occasional ride. If you don't necessarily need a boot but you need interior space, then the Skoda CitiGO is a much more inspired choice than the Up! and the Aygo. You still have to choose between the CitiGO, the Mii and the Fiat Panda. But the CitiGO remains one of the best city cars you can buy, if you want a strictly city car.

What engines do I recommend? Anyway, you have a single 1.0 MPi engine and the 60 horsepower is enough for you, if you don't skimp on the features. Whether you have 60 or 75 horsepower, you can still drive through the city at 30 miles/h.

Launched in 2012 to replace the shady VW Fox, the VW Up! was an instant success. VW had never really made a real effort to create a small, city car. Yes, there was the VW Lupo, but there the German engineers were more likely to test new technology on a car that no one would buy anyway – see the Lupo 3L which was an engineering exercise, not necessarily a car.

And it seems they succeeded. VW has finally managed to make a car that costs less than 10 grand. The VW Up! came with a lot of technology from the VW family and here VW's expertise in making cars with practical interiors that are more spacious than they should be was seen.

Is a VW Up worth it for personal use?

If you're looking for a small car to drive around in, probably yes. However, you have the Skoda CitiGo which is the same car just with a different hat. However, compared to the rest of the competition, the VW Up! holds up well, except when you make it kick Sandero in the nads, then the Sandero kicks back and the VW Up may find itself laying in a puddle of it's own liquids. If you don't care about the badge, a Sandero is probably a better choice. If you still don't want a Dacia because you're too poor to buy a Dacia, then the VW Up! is one of the most solid city cars currently on sale. And if you go for a Seat Mii or Skoda CitiGo, then you're really into that car.

VW Up! Engines

Petrol

• 1.0 MPI EA211 CHYA and CHYB of 60 and 75 horsepower – The base 60 horsepower engine is not worth considering unless you really want a VW Up! but don't have the money for a VW Up. Or buy a Skoda CitiGo with the 1.0 MPI 75 horsepower engine.
• 1.0 Turbo EA211 of 90, 100 and 116 horsepower – Although we are talking about a sporty and expensive version of a car that wants to be cheap. Especially the 116 GTI version, which was meant to be the continuation of the Lupo GTI. But no one bought it.

Electric

E-up! – The electric version of the Up can carry you 150 km on a full battery, can reach up to 130 km/h and can charge 80% in 30 minutes. You won't be delivering kebabs in this car or going on long journeys, but it's good to know that you can buy an electric car relatively cheaply.

VW Up! Reliability Issues

• Like many things in life, the first time doesn't always go as you want it. The same goes for the VW Up, where the first models in the first few months had quite a few issues. One of them was the insufficient ventilation inside, specifically the lack of manly air vents. So you can expect moisture and even mold in the car.
• The same was true with the infotainment system, which was a slightly unfortunate episode in the history of the VW Up. That's probably why VW recommends phone and tablet holders.
• One of the biggest faults with the VW Up is the robotic automatic transmission, which is more dubious than the work of people who are full of money and tattoos even though you never see them working. But an automatic transmission explodes the price of the VW Up anyway, so many people avoided this option.
• The manual transmission has it's own share of problems with the reverse gear. Like a friend who only wants you to get out in a certain place, the transmission stubbornly refuses to go into reverse. To calm the transmission down a bit, it is recommended to change the oil every 3 years.
• For the 1.0 engine (the others are ok) there have been reports of problems with the camshaft sensor, the clutch giving up prematurely and the timing belt needs to be changed every 3 years or 50,000 km. VW, old habits never die.

VW Up! Verdict

For a small city car, you have nothing to criticize except the price. And that remains the main issue with VW Up!. They now know how to make small city cars, they just need to get the price right for the features. If you start adding options, the price immediately starts to explode, and the basic models are really basic models. But when you deliver kebabs, you really don't care about the features of the car. On the contrary, if you don't have air conditioning, you're glad that that pizza doesn't have time to cool down.

What engine do I recommend? With the VW Up you have to make sure that the car is decent enough but not too expensive. In these conditions, the most balanced engine is the 1.0 MPI with 75 horsepower. The 60 is too anemic, the one with the turbine is too expensive.

That's because the Citroen DS 5 was an experiment by Citroen and not a necessarily successful one. Basically, the Citroen DS 5 is a kind of reverse Audi A4 B6. The Audi people exploited on the B6 platform more than a boss exploits an minimum wage employee. They launched the A4 B6, then launched the A4 B7 and somehow managed to keep the platform alive and launched the Seat Exeo. They clang to it as much as they could.

And the Citroen DS 5? Maybe the garlic and baguette eaters listened to the fans and more specifically to the criticism brought to the Citroen C5 that it was too stoic a car. So they went back to their origins that consecrated them and went totally for the looks. Sure, it looks good, but if you want to spend your days with it, it should know and do something other than just look good. Like with women, basically. 

Citroen DS 5 Engines

Petrol

1.6 Turbo EP6CDT of 156 and 200 horsepower – Sure, initial launches had serious issues with the timing chain that would fail and take the engine with it, but since this engine was adopted by the 3 Series it has become much more reliable and you can seriously consider buying it. Mind you however that it is a direct injection engine and you need to clean the intake manifold from time to time.

Diesel

• 1.6 e-HDi of 115 and 120 horsepower – Honestly, I would say skip this engine because on the Citroen DS 5 it's like trying to get drunk on craft beer. It's gonna take a while. Yes, this engine also comes with the EGS6 semi-automatic gearbox which you don't want. But atleast it's only the 1.6 HDi which was supplied with this excuse of an automatic gearbox.
• 2.0 HDi DW10 of 120, 150, 160, 165 and 180 horsepower – I don't have much to say about the legendary 2.0 HDi which is like any other 2.0 4-cylinder diesel on the market. Yes, just a special mention for the BlueHDI versions which have AdBlu installation and you have to be careful not to drive it too much around town, but that's about it.

Hybrid

2.0 HDi DW10 hybrid of 200 horsepower – The Hybrid4 engine is ok in itself but comes with the higher maintenance costs of a hybrid. Plus a hybrid is mostly made for the city, and a euro 6 diesel for long distances. So what's the point? 2.0 diesel hybrid - if split personality were an engine.

Citroen DS 5 Reliability Issues

• The biggest problem with the Citroen DS 5 is that they switched to regular coil suspension. Yes, they no longer have the famous hydro-active suspension that Citroen has been famous for since 1955. They have a mainstream suspension and it's not that comfortable, not even by the standards of a coil suspension.
• The ABS pump is a common concern for all Citroen DS 5 or DS 5 models, so when you see the ABS light on the dashboard, you can start packing your stuff because the bill will be so big, you'll have to sell the house and live in the car.
• And since we're still talking about dashboard faults, Citroen has ditched the hydro-active suspension but they've gone back to the usual Citroen stuff inside. We have a design that only Citroen is capable of, but we also have so many buttons and functions that only Citroen knows how to do. And the more buttons we have, the more technical problems we have, so check absolutely every button and every possible function before buying.

Citroen DS 5 Verdict

It seems like it was more of an experiment than a dramatic re-run worthy of Bollywood. Sure, they listened to the critics and the DS 5 isn't as stoic as the old C5, but it wasn't a good enough car for people to throw money at Citroen to buy one either. Which is why they quickly pulled it and moved on with the DS 9. Is it worth buying one instead? For the way it looks, absolutely. And it's a decently reliable car too.

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol power, definitely the 1.6 Turbo and it's 156 horsepower because that's the only one anyway, and for diesel, the simple, non-hybrid 2.0 HDi with 150 horsepower. That should be all the engine you'll ever need.

It's one of the few cars where it makes more sense to buy it new than used. Because on the used market the Bayon is fighting the Kona just like the UK fights common sense every single day. But if you look at Bayon and Kona now you will see that there is a difference of 8000 pounds between them, but here we are talking about the facelift models because this literary calamity was written in 2025 and in 3 years when I revisit this article I will say to myself "was really I writing that badly??".

But I'm going to compare the pre-facelift Bayon with the first Kona, to make it as fair as possible. Both are 4180 mm long, the Bayon is 1775 mm wide and the Kona is 1801 mm wide, the Bayon is 1490 mm tall and the Kona is 1570 mm tall. Basically, when they were around you paid a few thousand euros more just for a few extra centimeters, although if I think about it, most men would pay a few thousand more for a few extra centimeters. Good thing the Bayon is mainly a girls' car, although some of them would pay thousands of euros more for a few extra centimeters. What was I saying?

In terms of size they are very similar, you basically pay a few thousand for the Kona....in terms of dimensions they are very similar, and in terms of engines it's the same if you want a compact cross-over for the city. I mean they both have a 1.0 turbo petrol with 100 horsepower. The Bayon also has a 1.2 naturally aspirated with 84 horsepower and any kind of power honestly, and the Kona also has a 1.6 turbo petrol with 177 horsepower that no one bought because it was too expensive, and a 1.6 diesel with 116 and 136 horsepower for long distances. But whoever looks at the Bayon is looking at a city car, so we still stay with the 1.0 turbo petrol engine.

When is it worth buying a Bayon over a Kona?

• When you buy them new. On the used market it costs about the same and the Kona is technically the bigger model and you'd rather buy a Kona, but if you want to buy yourself a new one, then clearly the Bayon is for you. Because at the time I wrote this, the Hyundai Bayon starts at 15,100 GBP which is about the same as the Sandero Stepway, and the Kona starts at 23,300 GBP and those 8000 euros get you a fully loaded Bayon and some money left over for other passions in life.
• When you buy it for the city driving. Yes, the Kona is 8,000 GBP more expensive but the current model from 2025 starts with a 1.6 turbocharged petrol which develops 138 horsepower, while the Bayon starts with a 1.2 petrol and just 79 horsepower. Which in the city is the same thing really, but it counts outside the city.
• And yes, I understand that it's an apples-to-oranges argument, but there's a good chance that if you're looking at the Bayon, you're looking at a new car, so I brought that up as well. But let's get back to the used cars, because that's why we're here. Right now, for 15,000 GBP you can buy a 2020-2021 Kona 1.0 T-GDI with 30-50,000 miles on the clock, or a 2022-2023 Bayon 1.0 T-GDI with 20-35,000 km on the clock. That's if you're looking at a car that can do it all in a decent way for the average buyer.
• But what if I don't want a good car at all and I want a city car?
• Because technically and practically, that is, technically, the Hyundai Bayon is the successor to the i20, so a city car. And here things start to become clearer. You have a 1.2 petrol in 4 cylinders and 79-84 horses, relatively cheap, with which you can get around the city much cheaper than with a Kona. And you still don't come close to the Sandero Stepway, let alone the vanilla Sandero, but most likely you look at the Bayon because you scrunch up your nose at the idea of ​​a Sandero Stepway.

Hyundai Bayon Engines

Petrol

• 1.2 MPi G4LF of 79 or 84 horsepower - The only reason that would push me towards the 1.0 T-GDi is the automatic transmission and maybe the level of equipment, because the 1.2 is the basic version and did not receive the automatic transmission and some optional equipment that I am not convinced that you need anyway. But if you need a strictly city engine and for an occasional ride, 79 or 84 horsepower will be enough for you. Because you sacrifice performance and have a slightly higher fuel consumption, but you have the reliability of a 4-cylinder naturally aspirated engine.
• 1.0 Turbo T-GDi G3LE and G3LF of 100 and 120 horsepower - If the naturally aspirated gasoline engine is the kind of engine that you can change the oil whenever you remember, with this engine you have to be careful and stick to the service intervals, so that it is ok and on schedule. Especially because this engine is sensitive to heat and can get hot like the atmosphere at Jersey Shore. Yes, there is also the mild-hybrid version but it is put there to meet the standards and has no real impact

Hyundai Bayon Reliability Issues

• The DCT automatic transmission in the city is like a kebab soup. It looks good, it does the job, but at what price? Dual clutch automatic transmissions are generally a bad idea for city traffic so I wouldn't bother with a DCT transmission on the Bayon. If you absolutely want an automatic, buy a Sandero Stepway or a Yaris, with CVT transmissions.
• You'll be absolutely shocked, but it's not the most practical car possible.

Hyundai Bayon Verdict

If you want a new city car, you have better options. If you want a used city car, you also have better options. And when is it the best option? The only time I would recommend the Bayon is when you want a new, relatively cheap city car with a 4-cylinder naturally aspirated engine because it is very likely to be the last of the Mohicans. And in this combination, you can easily keep this car for 10-15 years, because it is one of the last old-fashioned cars, mechanically speaking. And maybe that is what you want, a technologically outdated car but that is a good thing, because it will withstand the chaos of the city for a long time.

Which engines do I recommend? Honestly, for what the Bayon is designed to do, I would go for the 4-cylinder naturally aspirated engine with either 79 or 84 horsepower.

Launched in 2000 and representing all the pains of nords at Volvo, the Volvo S60 I was one of the main Fords they had at the time. In the most likely case that you didn't know, in 1999 Ford bought Volvo to save them from their record profits..sorry, from bankruptcy and decided to "borrow" some of their technology. Even though the Volvo S60 I was launched in 2000, it is built on the famous P2 platform from Volvo, being one of the last cars built on a 100% Volvo platform. The rest of the car however is sprinkled with various gifts from Ford. They armed it with a lot of hope, a million-dollar smile, an above-average price and sent it straight into battle with the BMW E46 and the C Class W203, because the S40 wasn't launched just yet. There was also the A4 B6 at the time, but Audi was still learning how to premium at that time. The Volvo S60 I also had to learn, but still the lack of arguments didn't stop it.

Why should I buy a Volvo S60 and not a 3 Series?

I don't know why you would buy either of them, in hindsight. However, the S60 retains some of the Volvo spirit and is a much slower, but more comfortable car than the 3 Series and a little more reliable than a C Class W203. That doesn't mean it's as cheap to maintain as a student in a dorm, the first generation S60 remains a pretty expensive car to run. That's because we're talking about engines generally larger than 2 liters and we're talking about Ford technology put in just for the sake of putting in. Even if it should have been related to the Ford Mondeo III, they're as similar as incense is similar to heroin. So all that's left is to enjoy those comfortable seats as only Volvo knows how to do.

Volvo S60 I Engines

Petrol

• 2.0 Turbo l-5 of 163 and 180 horsepower – The only 2 litre engine on the entire list that does its job decently. An engine that still leaves you anchored in the reality of normal running costs and that offers civilized consumption and can be bought by a everyone. Good luck finding it instead, because it is rarer than the enthusiasm of a minimum wage employee who has to go to work during the quarantine period because he is considered an "essential worker".
• 2.4 MPI of 140 and 170 horsepower – Even if it's reliable and more common than a glass of wine at the pub, is it worth getting a naturally aspirated petrol engine in a turbocharged world? At least you know that if you replace its timing belt on time and feed it quality oil, it will last longer than you.
• 2.4 Turbo T3 of 200 horsepower – The old T3 is famous among Volvo circles (basically, 3-4 people) for its agility and performance worthy of pre-diet John Goodman. The problem with the old T3 is that it has older and more outdated technology than Top Gear trying to stay relevant in our times. So, they strapped a turbocharger the size of a concrete mixer and you'll have wait a few weeks until it comes into action so those 200 horsepower are more on paper.
• 2.5 Turbo of 210 and 300 horsepower – The legendary 2.5 Turbo that was the spearhead for Volvo but also for several Ford models, such as the Kuga or Focus ST. Here it comes with 300 horsepower for the S60R, this behemoth only needs air flow meters, quality oil changed on time and a timing chain kept on a short service interval.
• 2.3 Turbo 250 horsepower – Like the 2.4 Turbo, this T3 also has the problem of a turbo that is so big, it won't ever really get spinning. Fortunately, it was retired in 2004 by the T5.
• 2.4 Turbo T5 260 horsepower – The most celebrated son of the nords, the legendary T5 is the engine you want. You even get 10 more horsepower than the old T3, but you now get a much more modern system that gives you instant power, not 15 years later, as the developers promise.

Diesel

2.4D of 126, 130, 163 and 185 horsepower – The legendary D5 comes on the Volvo S60 I in two flavors. The first is in the Euro III version and which has faulty injectors. For the Euro IV versions you will have problems with the particle filter and failed regenerations. But it's the only diesel available so deal with it.

Volvo S60 I Reliability Issues

• Those automatic gearboxes really are a work of art. In fact, the only thing they have in common with works of art is fragility. Especially the 5-speed automatic gearbox.
• I don't know why you would do this, but a lot of people complain about the S60's inability to tow caravans and trailers. Why would you buy an S60 and start towing with it?
• It's built on the Volvo P2 platform so you have two major problems. The first is on the suspension side which is made of chewing gum so you'll be constantly replacing bushings, shock absorbers, arms and all that. The second problem with the P2 platform is rust but here at least it's in line with other premium midsize saloons from it's time.
• The headlights dim and then the bulbs burn out. Good job. It leaves you practically alone in the dark. But at least you have a Volvo S60 I and you see life differently when you sit on those Volvo leather seats.
• This is where Ford's miserable tyranny begins, so expect plenty of issues on the electrical side.

Volvo S60 I Verdict

Those seats look like they were sewn directly from world finest materials. They are so comfortable and so soft to the touch. For that alone, it's worth buying a Volvo S60 I. Oh, and there's also the glorious T5, which makes a midsize sedan like this worth the money. Unfortunately, the running costs are so high that the S60 remains a rare presence on the street. But if you find a T5 or a D5, you've practically caught God by the leg.

Which engines do I recommend? T5 and D5, didn't you hear? If with the T5 it's clear that you have 260 horsepower, with the D5 the 163 horsepower Euro IV version is probably the best.

I liked the Alfa Romeo 147. A simple and relatively reliable car. Even today it is one of the best budget cars you can buy, but sadly only the taxes are immune to the passage of time.

So Alfa Romeo almost released a new relatively cheap model with which to take on the supermini segment. I say almost released because 80% of this car is shared with the Fiat Grande Punto and the Vauxhall Corsa D. Very good and honest cars of their kind – cheap and simple cars, for the urban jungle.

But for a car like the Alfa Romeo MiTo, a car that looks like an Alfa Romeo MiTo, you would expect some sportiness and dynamics. But, just as your expectations after watching lesbian movies have nothing to do with reality, the Alfa Romeo MiTo has nothing to do with sportiness. Yes, there is a 1.4 Turbo with 135 and 170 horsepower, but at the bottom of the options aka the engines that will be bought you have a 0.9 petrol in 2 cylinders and a 1.3 diesel borrowed from the Corsa. Decent engines for a simple city car and the occasional long road, but for a car with the appearance of the MiTo it's like asking Kevin Hart to dress in Kevin James' clothes. But at least you have engines for everyone, regardless of gender, religion, sexual orientation, professional orientation, spiritual integration and preferences for TV shows.

Alfa Romeo MiTo Engines

Petrol

• 0.9 TwinAir of 85 horsepower – There are no known issues (only a few cases of the occasional coilpack), but the most shady thing about it is that it runs on 2 cylinders, not 4. In mid-life it develops an appetite for oil and luckily for you the oil dipstick is hard to reach and painted the same color as the oil, making it impossible for you to read the oil level. Plus the dual mass flywheel which when it fails will cost you. Of course they installed dual mass flywheels on a 2 cylinder petrol engine, it wouldn't have been an Alfa Romeo otherwise. I'm not big on this engine, and neither should be you.
• 1.4 Fire of 77 and 95 horsepower – The standard engine on the Grande Punto and Fiat Linea which then received some extra horsepower and was flown on the Tipo. A popular engine among taxi drivers, and that says a lot about its reliability. Of the most reliable modern engines in the world.
• 1.4 Multiair 105 horsepower – The same 1.4 Fire unit but with a Multi-Air unit installed. I would call it a step up, even though the Multi-Air unit does have an history of failing.
• 1.4 Turbo of 120, 135, 155 and 170 horsepower – The miniature version of the fantastic 1.75 TBi on the Alfa 159 and Giulietta. Issues with the BorgWarner K03 and K04 turbochargers failing and you also get as a bonus the problems with the Multi-Air unit. But it is the only sports engine on the Alfa Romeo MiTo so you have to choose between your emotional health and your financial health. Anyway, life is too short to play it safe.

Diesel

• 1.3 JTD of 85, 90, 95 horsepower – Another village bicycle, the microscopic 1.3 JTD powered just 24 chassis from 5 manufacturers. However, if you choose an Alfa Romeo MiTo 1.3 diesel, you deserve everything that comes your way.
• 1.6 JTD of 120 horsepower – Came only in the Veloce version and left just as veloce. There are no known particular issues with this engine, but the MiTo is a city car and you don't put an Euro 5 diesel in a supermini and expect it to work.

Alfa Romeo MiTo Reliability Issues

• You can only assume that they used leftover paint for the Mito. Thin, cheap and of dubious quality. Normally I don't put a price on paint, but on a fashionable car like the MiTo I have to mention this.
• Start/Stop sometimes works and sometimes doesn't, and it's more confused than a college graduate who is now applying for his first resumes but doesn't know where to apply first because he can't decide from all those  well-paid offers available on the market.
• The rear springs are sturdier than a chiropractor's hands. Just as achiropractor breaks your back, the rear springs on the Alfa Romeo MiTo will also break your back.
• As usual, the Mito was given belt drive and is kicking the microscopic MiTo in the balls. A good part of Alfa Romeo's reputation stems from the fact that owners didn't change the belt on time, the belt snapped and wrapped around the engine neck, hanging it so do replace the timing belt every 30,000 miles.
• The electric power steering (ofcourse it's electric) has times when it refuses to work. But at least the car weighs 2 kg so you can manage with the regular power steering.
• And I can't end this list without the famous M32 manual gearbox comes and wreaks havoc on the 1.4 Turbo and 1.6 CDTI engines, especially on it's bearings. And if you're looking for one of the two cars with automatic transmission, beware of the C635 automatic.

Alfa Romeo MiTo Verdict

As I said in the intro: Maybe with the turbocharged petrol engine from 120 horsepower upwards it's worth it, but for the rest it's just a car that looks good and does its job around town. Especially when you consider that the MiTo only comes with 2 doors. In fact, if I sit down and think about it, the Alfa Romeo MiTo is a serious alternative to the Mini Cooper. So, will you go with the Italian or the British-German-French?

Which engines do I recommend? For a city car, I can only recommend the 1.4 petrol engine, with or without a turbo. And if every penny counts and you absolutely want diesel, you don't really have a choice other than the 1.3 CDTI diesel with 90 horsepower.

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The Volvo XC90 I represents the challenges of a small-mid car manufacturer that doesn't have a terribly great budget for development. If we think about it, the Volvo XC90 I was on the market for 12 years, well beyond the average lifespan in the automotive industry. Coming out with 12 years of production means being a forgotten car, like the VW Sharan, but which occasionally receives love because Volvo and at Volvo things are always done differently.

We had a facelift in 2007 and 2009, sure, but the Volvo XC90 I got improvements every year, just that they weren't officially announced because that's how Volvo did it with their own cars. So, the first rule when buying a Volvo XC90 I, or any Volvo from the 2000s, is to buy the newest year possible because there are technical updates every year.

It's built on the P2 platform, so the XC90 is a Volvo proper alongside the original S80 and the S60. And like those two cars, the first XC90 is not really an off-road car, it's more a family bus. No, you won't be doing much off-roading in an XC90. In fact, you won't do any off-roading with many XC90s because all-wheel drive was optional, so you will find many XC90s with front-wheel drive only and possibly a manual transmission. Basically, the XC90 was the first 7-seat crossover the size of a Land Cruiser. A car truly ahead of its time.

How come no one has ever died in an XC90?

• First of all, you have the size. These cars are generally very poor at avoiding crashes but they do very well when that crash happens. And the Volvo XC90 I is one of the largest SUVs of it's time. It was bigger and taller than a Touareg and was very comparable to a Range Rover in terms of size. Basically, anything that was smaller than a Range Rover or a train did not pose a real threat to your health.
• Then there's Volvo's well-established safety systems. As if the car's 5,000 tons weren't enough to make you want to smash through the unfortunate car that's in your path like a brick through a window, the Volvo XC90 comes packed with more safety systems than Dorian Yates is packed with muscle.
• And finally we have the soft character of the XC90. The XC90 is definitely not a sports car and you will never drive aggressively enough to be in danger of crashing, but rather there is a high chance that you will be the victim. And to put it bluntly, many XC90s did not go fast enough because they were constantly in service shop. 

Volvo XC90 I Engines

Petrol

• 2.5 Turbo B5254T2 of 208 horsepower – Just as the Duster 1.0 petrol is a Sandero on stilts, so an front-wheel drive and manual gearbox XC90 2.5 Turbo petrol is just a raised S80. In any case, many prefer this engine for the simple fact that it is reliable and has no specific issues. However, it does not cope with the XC90 body and you will not run anywhere with this engine except to the filling station.
• 2.9 Turbo B6294T of 272 horsepower – This is one of the cheapest XC90s you will see for sale and that is because it only came with an automatic transmission, unlike the 2.5 Turbo which also came with a manual transmission. And this 3.0 Turbo (only this engine) was linked to a GM 4-speed automatic transmission that could not cope with the engine power and was essentially single use. This engine is to be avoided. I mean not necessarily the engine as much as the automatic transmission but you have no other option.
• 3.2 B6324S5 of 235 and 245 horsepower – American love with this engine and there is a heated discussion among owners about 2.5 Turbo vs 3.2 N/A petrol. The 3.2 is less reliable but at least it runs properly but the oil and fuel economy are worse and then you have the taxes. But most importantly you have the aux belt mounted behind the engine so for any operation there you will have to remove the engine which is not so fun.
• 4.4 V8 B8444S of 311 horsepower – An exotic engine, designed by Volvo and built by Yamaha. Very hard to find and equally expensive to run, and the balance shaft is a joke and I learned from Mercedes that it is an costly repair. Only with this engine it is even more expensive because it is an exclusive engine and often a broken balance shaft means the forced retirement of the car.

Diesel

2.4D D5244T of 163, 182 and 191 horsepower – By far the most popular in Europe and the most balanced for the XC90, the D5 is a pretty good and reliable engine. Sure, it has occasional injector failing but that's about it. That's just what you could say in your youth, today in 2021 you will have to constantly pour money into it.

Volvo XC90 I Reliability Issues

• I'll start with the most serious one, namely that most Volvo XC90s are expensive to run. Maintenance is very expensive on this car and most owners have taken a discount on maintenance. This means that either you find a lemon and drive it to the ground, or you put a lot of money into it to keep it afloat.
• The AWD system comes with multiple issues, if you have AWD in the first place. First of all, the rear axle no longer communicates with the driveshaft because the teeth are worn and no longer engage the driveshaft. And if that's not the issue, then you also need to look at the center differential because it also has a habit of suddenly retiring.
• The ABS system will be constantly working on your nerves, from the wheel speed sensors to the ABS pump, so get ready.
• It's a heavier car than realizing that the good times will eventually end. That means a huge amount of stress on tires, brakes, and suspension, parts that you'll be constantly replacing. And if you think about the fact that the smallest rims are 18″ and that tires cost from 100 quid a piece and up, you start to get an idea of ​​the running costs of this behemoth.

Volvo XC90 I Verdict

As big, safe and practical as it is, it is also expensive to run. But at least it is an excellent family car, if you suffer from traffic paranoia and think that everyone wants to throw themselves kamikaze at you. But they won't, because you have size on your side. Even the back seats are 2 miles away from impact, in case a car hits you from behind. No, it is not a macho car and it is not a car to make donuts in the parking lot,  but it is a hilariously comfortable, hilariously big, hilariously safe and hilariously expensive to run.

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol power I will go with the 2.5 Turbo of 211 horsepower, manual or automatic, and for diesel, clearly the 2.4 diesel of 163 horsepower.

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And it's easy to see why it didn't sell all that well. I quickly went to the competition to see how overrated the Alfa Romeo Giulia is. So, the 280 horsepower, 2.0 petrol automagic, entry level Alfa Romeo Giulia starts at 42,500 pounds, and the now-retired diesel started somewhere at 47,500 pounds.

Let's see how the competition stands. The cheapest automagic 3 Series is the 184 horsepower 320i which starts from 41,400 pounds, a grand cheaper but also 80 horsepower down on grunt. Up the buget to 47,000 pounds and you're up to the 330e, with it's 292 horsepower 2.0 turbocharged petrol hybrid, on par with the 47,300 Alfa Romeo Giulia with the Veloce pack, or an 330e M for 48,400 pounds. Moving on, with 46,000 pounds you can have an entry level C Class with a 204 horsepower 2.0 litre petrol and a 23 horsepower electric engine, for an tree hugging hybrid C Class. I never thought I'd be saying this, but rather than buying an Alfa Romeo Giulia, go buy a 3 Series instead simply because it's cheaper. bang for buck, features for features, horsepower for horsepower, the BMW 3 Series is cheaper.

And that creates a problem for the Alfa Romeo Giulia, the successor to the 159. After 10 years of development and launch, the Alfa Romeo Giulia was supposed to go head-to-head with the 3 Series, but they were so ambitious that they jumped straight at the throat of BMW M and forgot to make a car for the average buyer. And when you price your Alfa Romeo similarly to an M package 3 Series, most people will go for the BMW badge.

I'm not necessarily a fan of BMW or sports cars in general, I just want to point out the monumental mistake that the Alfa Romeo Giulia made in this approach. And this was also seen in sales numbers, in 5 years in Europe only 70500 models were sold, and last year only 7436 models in all of Europe. 

So why buy a Giulia?

The entire press went crazy about the Alfa Romeo Giulia at launch because of one thing – the 2.9-liter turbocharged F154 engine of Ferrari origin. Yes, the engine is developed by Ferrari and is normally in V8 configuration but for the Alfa Romeo family they removed 2 cylinders and remained kept it at a modest V6 configuration, with a modest output of 510 horsepower. The problem is that this is the only merit of the Alfa Giulia and it started at 85,000 pounds, which is clearly not a car for normal people. And ironically, the BMW M3 of it's era also costs 85,000 pounds, but it only has 480 horsepower. Excuse me, but for 85 grand you can buy a used Ferrari 612 Scaglietti that also offers 4 seats, a 5.8 petrol V12 which churns out 540 horsepower, from 2008 and with 50,000 km. Or a 400 horsepower Porsche 911 Carrera 4S . Or a 2015 Audi R8 Coupe with Lamborghini sourced 5.2 V10 and 525 horsepower. I could go on and on, but I think I'll do a podcast about what cars you can buy with the money that an Alfa Romeo Giulia Quattro Formaggi asks for.

Alfa Romeo Giulia Engines

Petrol

• 2.0 Turbo GME T4 of 200 and 280 horsepower – Used intensively on Jeeps, this engine has, in addition to the one normally mounted on Jeeps, a MultiAir unit of which we have talked about before. It's just a matter of when it fails, not if. Because it inevitably will fail. And on top of that you also have the turbo that can fail as well as all kinds of sensors and cables and plugs that disconnect. Plus it's direct injection so you can feed it strictly quality petrol.
• 2.9 V6 690T of 510 horsepower – The Ferrari engine, only in the version with 2 cylinders removed. In V8 mode it develops up to 720 horsepower, but here it is a modest V6 of only 510 horsepower. It's just that they are not built the same, in the same place, with the same hands and the same engines. The Ferrari ones are much more expensive to build, but the basic design is the same. But what can I say, good luck finding one.

Diesel

2.2 JTDM Multijet of 150 and 180 horsepower – Probably the only engine worth buying, and the only notable problem is the particle filter if you drive it too much around town, but that applies to any modern diesel basically. 

Alfa Romeo Giulia Reliability Issues

• It's an Alfa Romeo so I have to talk about the complementary electrical gremlins. And that's not because the electronics are bad but because they weren't wired properly and something will always disconnect somewhere.
• Differential failures for the snobs who opted for all-wheel drive. That's what you get when you spend over 60 grand on a more pompous MiTo.
• The Giulia's appetite for front tires will make you a friend, patron and sponsor at your local tire shop.
• One of the most common issues is with the battery, namely that the battery does not hold enough current and this will give you constant electrical problems and all your functions and buttons will never work.

Alfa Romeo Giulia Verdict

It's very expensive and not very reliable. Again, I didn't think I would recommend a 3 Series because it's cheaper than an Alfa. It seems that the Alfa Romeo Giulia is the kind of car that goes all in and the only Giulia worth buying is the Quattro Formaggi with the Ferrari engine. There are no other options. And yet, is it worth it? I say you don't need any other example than the sales figures. I would have recommended it if it had cost 30, 35,000 pounds, but at 42 grand for the base model, it's already way too much. Go and buy a new 3 Series, you'll get it cheaper.

Which engines do I recommend? Since the Ferrari engine is virtually untouchable these days, the only realistic choice for a petrol engine is the 2.0 Turbocharged lump, if you don't want to go diesel that is.

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In a style that would be approved by the fashion police without doubt. I don't need to explain much more because the Jaguar F Pace X761 is a popular presence on the streets and some of them even make it to the national news, unfortunately. But let's get back to history, because in 2016 we can say that we had the last good year. It was the first year in history when more people accessed the internet from a smartphone than from a desktop/laptop and it was also the year Pokemon Go was launched and with that I think I kicked you in the nostalgia jimmies. In fact, I think there is no need to talk about the Jaguar F Pace anymore and continue with the global peace which Pokemon Go was. And to stop there, because in 2016 Harambe was killed and since then everything has gone downhill and I don't believe in coincidences.

But let's stick with 2016 because it was a phenomenal year. Pokemon Go, Jaguar F Pace, Alfa Romeo Stelvio, Leonardo DiCaprio wins his first Oscar. Okay, I'll stick with the F Pace.

Jaguar, much like Alfa Romeo, felt that there was room in the market for mid-range and premium crossovers, especially after the crazy success of the second-generation X3 and after Lexus entered the market in 2014 with their NX. Until then, it was a very underexploited segment, because it was believed that people who buy premium crossovers usually buy something more expensive and bigger, but forget that there is a market for something like that, and premium manufacturers armed themselves and prepared for a royal rumble. And the British from Tata were preparing the Jaguar Land Rover offensive with the F Pace that was launched in 2016 and the Velar that was launched a year later.

Like the rest of the cars in this class (X3, NX, Velar, Stelvio, Q5), the Jaguar F Pace X761 is not built for off-roading and is for asphalt enthusiasts, because the kind of person who buys this kind of car will never do off-roading. His/her idea of ​​off-roading is to cross a puddle and drive on the occasional field. At least you don't have problems with shoveling in the winter. So why complicate yourself with a ladder-type chassis, transfer cases, differentials, when the person just wants the high driving position and wants to be able to climb curbs, anytime, anywhere and no matter how high the curb is.

Why should I buy an F Pace and not something else?

Let's be realistic, most will buy it for how it looks and because it's a Jaaaaaaagggg. Most owners have no idea what engine their car worth tens of thousands of euros has. But as an actual car? Well, being their first cross-over/SUV, Jaguar took all the existing technology and didn't adapt it in any particular way. We have the same very expensive and complicated suspension from the Jaguar XE with which it shares the platform but which also offers top-class sporting abilities, but the main party piece is in the engine bay. If you want between 350 and 400 horsepower, you only have the Audi SQ5 (354 horsepower) as an alternative. If you want over 500 horsepower in this class, the only alternative is the Alfa Romeo Stelvio with the 2.9 V6 Ferrari engine that develops 520 horsepower. And the most powerful F Pace and Velar? 550 horsepower. So, maybe on the lower end of the spectrum, the Jaguar F Pace X761 doesn't convince you much to buy it, but if you're looking for a crossover with over 300 horsepower, then the F Pace and Velar are your only realistic options.

Jaguar F Pace X761 Engines

Petrol

• 2.0 Turbo Ingenium AJ200 of 250 horsepower – Out with the original Ford engines and welcome Jaguar Land Rover engines. And in the case of the 2.0 Turbo Ingenium you can really welcome it because it is a surprisingly reliable engine.
• 3.0 V6 AJ126 Supercharged 340 and 380 horsepower – Another very reliable engine that is worth your money. Unfortunately it is an older generation engine because Jaguar did not have the money to design a new one, but in the case of the AJ126 that is a good thing. It is essentially a derivative of the 5 liter V8 engine, with 2 cylinders removed. The interesting part is that they did not change the rest of the components, which are designed to withstand the heat of the 5.0 V8 version so it will be alot sturdier with "just" 340 horsepower.
• 5.0 V8 AJ133 Supercharged with 550 horsepower – Grab your sword and fight the horde, because the monstrous 5.0 supercharged V8 still lives under the hood of the Jaguar F Pace SVR. Launched in 2009 as a continuation of the engine used on the Aston Marin V8 Vantage, this engine punishes its components more than Scruff McGruff punishes crime. The problems are generally on the overheating side because the water pump and pipes can't handle the heat. And there's also the timing belt that fails faster than it should, but when you can afford this kind of engine, running costs are no longer relevant.

Diesel

• 2.0D Ingenium AJ200D of 163, 180 and 240 horsepower – Unfortunately the most mainstream engine is also the weakest in terms of reliability and that's why Jaguar Land Rover have a bad reputation. Rocker shaft, the timing belt, the pistons and I'm sure I forgot some stuff along the way. Why is all this happening? Because Jaguar Land Rover and almost all manufacturers offer very long maintenance intervals and the oil should be changed every 30,000 km. If you don't want to end up with a cracked engine block or a seized engine, change the oil every 6.000 miles / 10,000 kms or every second startup and you'll be fine.
• 3.0D AJD-V6 / D17 300 horsepower – It's a shame that this engine is D17 and not D12 to sing "My Band". It's just a D17 unit sourced from PSA, the engine previously used on the Range Rover Sport and which also has problems with the oil pump failing, after which the timing and/or the crankshaft fail. Here the cause is that the oil pump is not changed preventively and the wrong grade oil is also used, because Jaguar Land Rover recommends one oil standard for the engine and PSA recommends another standard. Go with the French because it's their engine. Or avoid it altogether. Your choice.

Hybrid

2.0 Turbo AJ200 Hybrid 404 horsepower – Yes, this engine is really 404 because it is not found on the F Pace. And it is understandable, because this engine does not find its meaning in life on the F Pace body when you also have the normal non-hybrid version at your disposal. Yes, for Range Rover it is an interesting discussion between the P400e and the 3.0 diesel, but here it really does not make sense. It has no specific problems, but it does not make sense either. Like the 1.8 naturally aspirated engine on the Audi A6 C5.

Jaguar F Pace X761 Reliability Issues

• It's a Jaguar, so there must also be a complementary moment about electrical gremlins, from the radio losing signal to the Bluetooth not connecting to the electric tailgate failing.
• The discs rust quickly because the kind of driver who has an F Pace doesn't need to brake because the rest of the traffic will move aside. I could go on and on about F Pace drivers who don't tend to brake but I can't make fun of that.
• It's a car you buy for it's looks, so the space in the back is more limited than the budget for this online septic tank. And to further ensure that the poor won't get their dirty buttocks on your seats and carpets, the doors weigh 6 tons. It might be a deterrent for moms of hyperactive crotch goblins because you they have the physical strength to open them, which is a pretty big omission for Jaguar considering that a good chunk of the customer base is made up of moms of hyperactive crotch goblins.

Jaguar F Pace X761 Verdict

Oddly enough, it's a reliable car, at least by the standards we've come to expect from Jaguar and Land Rover. And as long as you avoid the 2.0 diesel engine that fractures its engine and the car's reputation the same way I fractured my leg when I fell into the ditch near the Screwdriver, then you have a car that looks good and runs well. In fact, if you want a crossover with over 300 horsepower, the Jaguar F Pace X761 is one of the few cars that fits the bill, along with its Velar sibling. But you're buying it for the looks anyway.

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol power, the 2 litre turbo engine with 250 horsepower is all you need, and as for diesel, I don't recommend anything because they both have massive issues.

Nowadays everyone makes a crossover, any size and any color. The whole craze started around 1800 with the Toyota Rav4, then around 2006 (I don't really care about the year) came the Qashqai and here we are in 2015 when everyone makes crossovers. And today we're talking about Alfa Romeo's attempt at building a crossover - the Alfa Romeo Stelvio.

Which is a bit off-putting to say that Alfa Romeo built the Alfa Romeo Stelvio because the Stelvio is actually an Alfa Romeo Giulia on stilts and that's big question mark.

But then again, Alfa Romeo knows exactly what its customer base wants and, oddly enough, the Stelvio is what its customers want, not what Alfa Romeo wants. If the Alfa 166 was a failure because it was built for their own whims and was more of a after dark project, the Stelvio was and is a commercial success. First of all because it's a crossover and everyone has the crossover fever these days. There are no normal cars anymore, there are no compacts anymore, there aren't even city cars anymore. It's all SUVs and cross-overs.

As I said about Aygo X or Picanto, how far will the cross-over rave go?

Secondly, Alfa Romeo knows that people who buy this kind of car will never go off-road, so the Stelvio has no off-road capabilities at all. It is a pure-blooded street crossover, with the 4×4 system adapted for the road and stability in bends, and nothing to do with climbing muddy hills. No no, here you have 300 horsepower, rear-wheel drive, sports steering and sports suspension as Alfa Romeo knows how to do. In other words, it is the official crossover of "floor it". As long as it works, and disturbingly Alfa Romeo Stelvio really has a tendency to work. I wonder what is going on there, since they took over Jeep? Could the statement that 2 bad things make 1 good be true?

Alfa Romeo Stelvio Engines

Petrol

• 2.0 GME-T4 Turbo of 197, 247 and 276 horsepower – Sure, we have problems with the turbo failing and the Multi-Air unit not being particularly reliable neither, but we also have a minimum of 200 horsepower, up to 276 horsepower stock and alot more if you start tuning. By far the most balanced engine for the Stelvio, in terms of bangs for buck.
• 2.9 690T Turbo of 503 horsepower – Built by Ferrari for Alfa Romeo, it is actually their 720 hp V8 engine but with 2 cylinders removed and the power reduced to "only" 500 horsepower. As for maintenance, what I can say is that it is a Ferrari engine, with Ferrari maintenance costs.

Diesel

2.2 Multijet II of 150, 160, 180, 190 and 210 horsepower – The 150 horsepower one only comes with rear-wheel drive because Italians. When everyone makes crossovers with either front-wheel drive or all-wheel drive, the Stelvio and X3 in the basic versions come with rear-wheel drive. Because why not? Otherwise it's a modern engine and that means problems with the AdBlue installation, issues with the injectors, clogging of the particulate filter and, in true Alfa Romeo fashion, water pump failures. Well, you won't have them all at the same time  or maybe you won't have any of the problems. All we know is that this engine should be kept away from the city just like Chris Brown should be kept away from Rihanna because it riles him up.

Alfa Romeo Stelvio Reliability Issues

• The brakes either barely work or don't work at all because Alfa Romeo thought of putting in an electric brake system, and electrics has never been Alfa Romeo's strong suit.
• And since I mentioned the magic word "electric", there must come a complementary moment when I say that Alfa Romeo is as good at electrics as I am at asking for a raise. Okay, you could blame the Italians, but on the other hand modern cars are packed with electronics, and there will always be issues . Bonus points for the air conditioning tho.
• The infotainment is taken from the old 147, which is not bad for Tom Jones fans, but for a car that started at 55,000 pounds new, it's a little unfortunate. As is the rest of the interior, which is as sober as a tuxedo. There's nothing wrong with it, it just feels like the interior of the 159 to me.
• Sure, you'd expect for the Stelvio to have sports suspension and if you're okay with that and it's lack of comfort, that's fine. After all, the Stelvio is a sports SUV and that's all, so you should be fully aware of what you bought.
• Not necesarilly an reliability issue because it isn't, but I should mention that the automagic transmission is old-fashioned, so it's more reliable but less sporty. They didn't want to put a dual-clutch transmission on a sports car because why would you put a performance transmission on a performance car? Because the Italians.

Alfa Romeo Stelvio Verdict

The Alfa Romeo Stelvio is one of the more interesting choices on the market. Like the F-Pace with which it is often compared, the Stelvio is a sporty asphalt SUV and that's it. Sure, it costs a bit more than an X3 if you only look at the price, but if you compare an X3 with similar features and power, you will see that the Stelvio is actually cheaper. So if you want something different, a sporty cross-over that is not found in every parking space (or 2 spaces) in the mall, the Alfa Romeo Stelvio is definitely worth it. Especially the 2.0 turbo petrol.

What engines do I recommend? The 2.0 Turbo with 276 horsepower is fantastically bombastic, but any power version is correct. And for diesel you only have a 2.2 anyway and on the market you can find either the 150 or the 180 version, so I'll recommend the 180.

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But at least it's good to know that Volvo has a tight and sane community and you can't talk about reality because they don't accept reality. But if there were that many Volvo fans, the Volvo XC40 should have sold like hotcakes.

Because the Volvo XC40 was their attempt to address the younger demographic, but I don't think Volvo knows what young people look like. Like Mercedes and pretty much everyone else in the industry, Volvo's marketing department saw the potential of crossovers, especially cheap or at least affordable ones, and said they had to build one. And they saw that very few people were touching the XC60 and the XC90 was as lonely as Captain Holt after losing his mortal enemy because she died (presumably), so they thought of making a cheap crossover - the Volvo XC40.

But the Volvo XC40 is very expensive and that's the biggest downside of this car. Even the entry-level models cost more than the BMW X1 and practically any other crossover in its class, except for the Mercedes GLA and Audi Q3. So, it's classic Volvo, we have prices like the premium ranges in the industry

Do we have the premium car in the industry tho?

• Like Alfa Romeo, Volvo made a huge mistake with the XC40 and the sales figures confirm this. You can't come as a small manufacturer, present a car that is not necessarily the best in the segment, but which at a price is on par with the premium cars of established manufacturers. And so the Stelvio is a rarer presence than my moments of lucidity, and the XC40 also has visibility problems.
• Especially when you think that the Stelvio stands alone in the tree because there is also the Giulia and that's it, while in the case of the Volvo XC40 we are halfway to the center. Young people can buy a V40 which is a boring but good car, and those who buy crossovers... sorry, those who can afford to buy a crossover from Volvo will go straight for the XC60 or XC90. After that, they will go on set and call on celebrities to answer the challenges, and if they refuse, they will have to eat something spicy.
• I mean, yes, I understand, it's a car that looks modern on the outside and very luxurious on the inside, you really feel like you're sitting in an XC90 Lite. 

Volvo XC40 Engines

Petrol

• 1.5 Turbo B3154 de 129 si 163 horsepower – The 3-cylinder version of Volvo's VEA engine has proven to be all the engine you'll ever need. We no longer have the Ford-sourced 1.6 EcoBoost as the base engine, we now have a proper Volvo unit.
• 2.0 Turbo B4204 de 190, 247, 249 si 252 horsepower – A sensational engine, but I'm not sure it ties in with the character of the Volvo XC40. On a Polestar, sure this engine is exactly what you need, but at what an XC40 with this engine costs, it goes beyond the idea of ​​a crossover.

Diesel

2.0 D4204 of 150 and 190 horsepower – I'm not normally a diesel fan but here in Volvo's case it makes even less of a sense. Volvo's VEA diesel engines are plagued with issues, especially in the intake manifold cracking and turbo failures departments. The XC40 is already an expensive car to buy, don't hurt yourself even further by making it an expensive car to run.

Hybrid

1.5 Turbo Hybrid B3154T5 of 214 and 265 horsepower – The Volvo XC40 Recharge comes in either a hybrid or electric configuration, and here we have the plug-in hybrid version. We talk about issues at the general section.

Electric

Electric 231 and 408 horsepower – As with the diesel engine, the difference in power is given by the number of motors, as the diesel has either one or 2 turbos. The 231 horsepower has a single motor, and the 408 horsepower has 2 motors working together. Both have the same range, the only difference is that the 408 horsepower version reaches 0 – 100 km/h in 4.9 seconds, and the 231 reaches 0 – 100 km/h in 7.4 seconds. Is it worth all that extra money for 2.5 seconds of slower acceleration?

Volvo XC40 Relaibility Issues

• The infotainment system is not the most intuitive possible, so before buying a modern Volvo you should take a computer science course.
• Rear visibility isn't as good as is the case with all coupe SUV which spawned from trend set by the X6, but you're not far off. Sofia Boutella can be playing soccer with Sofia Vergara in the back of the car, and you'd never know it.
• The emergency braking module works intermittently, but it's a problem that can be easily solved through software.
• For Recharge models, the batteries of both hybrid and electric models may not charge and thus you are stuck in the parking lot. Most of the time it is a software problem and it is easily solved once you get to the Volvo specialists, but the whole problem is until you get to the Volvo specialists. Because a regular repair shop may not have the proper tools needed for this.

Volvo XC40 Verdict

The Volvo XC40 and all these crossovers that cost 40-50-60-70 grand remind me of the hysteria with the Audi RS3, the first hatchback to cross the 50,000 pound barrier. Yes, the Volvo XC40 is pompous and it's a perfectly decent car in basic equipment, but once you start getting into the options it starts to get very, very expensive. And I'm not the only one who says this. So I can only recommend a basic XC40, which is all the car you need, and at 33,000 euros it's a civilized offer.

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol power, the 1.5 Turbo and it's 129 horsepower are enough, but the vast majority of ads come equipped with the 2.0 and 150 horsepower diesel, which is unfortunate.  And on the electric side, I recommend the Volvo XC40 Recharge full electric 231 horsepower, because it still costs about the same as the traditional powered cars after state discounts and can be a better alternative than both petrol and diesel.

It's possible that I didn't like the Juke because it's mainly a girl's car, and driving one as a man means that you need some botox in order to hide your non-girl physical traits. And apparently these people exist, because the Juke has sold quite well internationally. In fact, the Qashqai and Juke are the only reasons why Nissan Europe is still alive, and internationally they also have the giant Micra.

It's just that everything eventually comes to an end, except for credit card debts, and the first Juke retires to hand over the torch to the Nissan Juke F16 in 2019. A serious car, set on doing great deeds, because now it wants to take the eyes and money not only of girls but also of boys and as many young family members as possible. And it's not even overly expensive, which is very strange to say for a Nissan. 

And look how now you have another relatively cheap cross-over, which is halfway between Vitara and C-HR, except that it is more C-HR than Vitara. And in the world of the C-HR consumer base, the main thing is the looks, the rest being secondary. In other words, the Juke has a high chance of stealing from the C-HR people, if Nissan would bother to promote it. Actually, if I hadn't entered the Nissan website on my own, I wouldn't have known that a Juke starts at 19,990 pounds, 2,500 pounds more expensive than an entry-level Vitara. And I'm not sure I'd spend 20 grand on a Vitara, but 23 grand on a Juke? Maybe.

Nissan Juke F16 ENgines

Petrol

1.0 Turbo HR10DDT of 115 horsepower – The same 1.0 TCe basically used everywhere, from Logan to Captur to Juke, only here in the 115 horsepower version. Honestly, it's all the engine you need, especially when you consider that the Juke was designed for the city. Sure, it can handle the occasional long drive, but for modern urban life it's what you need. The only real issue is that at the turbocharger they installed a rod where a spring should have been put and the engine is louder, but it does not affect the engine from a mechanical point of view. There have been some recalls so you definatelly can ask about that.

Hibrid

1.6 Hybrid HR16DE of 143 horsepower - I honestly think that they put this engine just to pass the emissions standard imposed by the EU. First of all, you have the 1.0 TCe which has no specific issues and does exactly the same job in the city but costs 10 grand less. Is it really worth it? Also, the automatic gearbox is disposable. When it fails, it is cheaper to buy a new gearbox rather than repair this one. But at least it has a long enough lifespan for you not to worry too much aboyt it. I would still take the 1.0 TCe tho.

Nissan Juke F16 Reliability Issues

• The suspension is a bit on the sporty side and a bit hard for a city car. That is, the Nissan Juke F16 has the same sports values ​​as Graham Norton. Just like Graham Norton, if you give the Nissan Juke sports suspension, it won't necessarily be better.
• The interior space is still more cluttered than a trash can in a student dorm room because why take out the trash away? So either you have short friends, or each with his own car, or you have no friends. The same with the luggage, because the Nissan Juke has a boot that is only 3 liters larger than the VW Polo. Basically, you put a can of Fosters and that was it.
• The outdated infotainment is the second general problem with the Juke, next to the suspension. But it can be a plus for those who are not so interested in technology and want something older because it is more reliable. Like me essentially. Old and reliable.

Nissan Juke F16 Verdict

Of course, the Nissan Juke F16 is a successful car, but it is just as much a Nissan as Graham Norton is Jamaican. Sure, on the outside it looks like a Nissan, but on the inside it's very much Renault. And this created an interesting dilemma - the Nissan Juke F16 becomes a very good car when you start throwing equipment into it. Which is very interesting, because until now Nissan was very weak at equipped cars and their strong suit was simple and reliable cars. It is probably explained because there is nothing Nissan left of this Juke. But as much as I rave here, you can easily buy a Nissan Juke because it's a successful car.

What engines do I recommend? Honestly, the 1.0 TCe with 115 horsepower is all the engine you need.

It's not a practical car, it's not the most reliable car, but it's definitely eye candy car. It's the kind of car where there is no middle ground: You either like it or you don't. That much. I personally like it, I also drove a Nissan Puke on semi-rough terrain and it handled decently. Yes, you can't see anything out of the rear window, but those inflated headlights help you see where the corners of the car are. And in addition, it is built on the same platform as the Dacia Duster and Renault Captur (I would also write Micra, but that is not a car).

Essentially a cheaper and better-looking but less practical Qashqai, the original Nissan Juke was adored by young people (especially by 18-year-old girls who received a gift from their parents) but also by the elderly who wanted a cheap and tall car. It's a car in which you get on and off very easily, without too much effort, an important aspect for those with arthritis. And arthritis will catch us all, or atleast the ones lucky enough to get old enough for arthritis.

And why wouldn't you go for a Juke? After all, if you choose the successful engine + transmission combinations, you have a decent car that costs about as much as a Golf VI from the same year, but which looks more dramatic. Because not everyone wants to fit into society's patterns. Nissan Juke, the official car of the creative department. Not very practical, not very connected to the world, but full of dubious creativity that attracts you.

Nissan Juke F15 Engines

Petrol

• 1.2 DIG-T HR12DDT of 116 horsepower – Also known as 1.2 TCe from Renault, this engine was withdrawn in 2019 following a scandal and lawsuit in which mechanics complained about its extreme reliability and the fact that they have nothing left to work on, nothing left to fix. It only suffers from minor problems, such as serious oil loss or the fact that many engines of this type did not reach 37,000 miles / 60,000 km before they were destroyed.
• 1.5 HR15DE of 100 horsepower - As it goes with Nissan and Japan manufacturers in general, they usually keep around a 1.5 petrol just for them, and this is the case with the Puke aswell. That's the way she goes.
• 1.6 HR15DE of 94 and 117 horsepower – Shared with Nissan Qashqai, this engine is relatively simple and reliable. It has problems starting at -15 degrees Celsius or colder and you have to be careful how the spark plugs are changed. If they are too tight, damage to the engine will also hurt your wallet. But overall it's an fair enough engine.
• 1.6 DIG-T MR16DDT of 190 and 240 horsepower – A sports engine that will quickly leave you short on breath, license points and money. Plagued with oil consumption and with the clutch and dual-mass flywheel failures, that give up every 200 meters. That is if the pistons are not damaged in the meantime.
• 3.8 V6 Twin-Turbo VR38DETT of 545 horsepower - Only 23 were initially planned, only 17 prototypes were made and from them only 5 were road worthy and Nissan kept 2 of them. So there's only 3 of them on the streets. Or most likely, the Nissan-GTR powered Juke is sitting in someone's garage full of other collections.

Diesel

1.5 dci K9K of 110 horsepower – Renault-Nissan-Mercedes village bicycle, this engine was used on both the original Dacia Sandero and the current generation of CLA. Occasional falures of the particulate filter and the turbocharger, but if you drive it mainly in extra-urban areas it should be ok. Pay close attention to the models up to 2011, which are sensitive to diesel fuel of dubious quality and can be contaminated with soot.

Nissan Juke F15 Reliability Issues

• The CVT automatic gearbox has a lifespan of 40,000 km. The new CVT box, named X-TRONIC, does not fare much better either. If you don't want to finance your mechanic's mortgage, go for a manual transmission. After all, what man does with his hands is called manual work.
• Those from Renault sent the battery and electronics system to the Nissan factory, and the engineers there were probably old because they thought they knew better. They modified the electronics system that regulates the charging cycles of the battery, and the battery can no longer charge correctly. So you will never have all the electronic systems working at the same time, unless you go for another brand of battery or a larger battery.
• The infotainment system tends to break down a few months after the warranty expires. Radio, navigation and other things go on strike and take the whole system after them. 
• For those two people who were thinking of climbing the Alps in a Nissan Juke, I have to tell you that since 2014, 4×4 has been completely abandoned for the Juke. You will be able to climb the curbs of the underground parking lots in the mall though and that might be all the climbing you'll ever do in your car.
• Front brake discs have a shorter life than Close Enough. And where the discs need to be changed, the pads must also be changed.

Nissan Juke F15 Verdict

Reliability is just about in line with Nissan's parameters, so the question arises whether it is really worth buying one. Honestly? If you go for a naturally aspirated gasoline engine and a manual gearbox, you have a simple city car that looks dramatic. The purchase price is up there with the VW Golf, so it has a real chance of winning. Yes, it's not as reliable as a Golf, but in general, Juke owners don't drive their cars for billions of kilometers and cosmic mileage reliability is not so much of a concern here. No, the typical owner. is generally 18-25 years old, she is in high school-college and when she takes a curve she always has some lipsticks that rolls somewhere on the floor. She also likes the Mini Cooper, but it only has two doors and is too low. So a Juke remains the perfect choice for her.

Whichengine do I recommend? 1.6 naturally aspirated petrol and mated to a manual gearbox should be a relatively cheap car to maintain. Any other combination will send you to the service line with several billion other people who bought a Nissan and are now paying the mechanic's mortgage. Oh, and the classic 1.5 diesel, also mated to a manual gearbox, is another fantastic combo.

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So the Volvo V50 has quite a mission to fulfill. If it's still the only Volvo we can realistically afford, then it should make an impression worthy of the mystery of the Rue Morgue. A short, low-cost, but memorable presentation.

Even though this car was assembled using parts borrowed from Ford and Mazda dumpsters, the car still remains a Volvo. This is because we are in the dark ages when Ford bought Volvo, "borrowed" it's technology, almost bankrupted it and then sold it on. Practically, Volvo remained like at the dentist: With the money taken and in pain.

But at least it received a series of decent engines and some technology from Ford that made the Volvo V50 and Volvo S40 relatively affordable new cars and very affordable in 2025. In fact, the Volvo V50 is an S40 with a boot, so I could should copy paste that review instead. It's just that I've gotten used to filling up random space to make it look good in my work reports, so I'll write a full review.

Especially when we talk about a car that represents the classic Volvo recipe: A station wagon, which looks good even after so many years, with a dubious interior for some and torn from the Baywatch movies for others (like you have that surfboard as a dashboard... you know? Baywatch? Surf? No? Ok, I'm escorting myself out)

It has relatively space, it moves relatively decently, it is relatively reliable and it is relatively safe. Basically, it's almost a Volvo. Half Volvo, half Ford, half Mazda. You have a station wagon that looks like a Volvo but is not quite as roomy as a Volvo. And with all that, the Volvo V50 sold more than the tickets to Murders in the Rue Morgue play.

Volvo V50 Engines

Petrol

• 1.6 B4164S3 of 100 horsepower – An entry-level petrol that is vaguely related to the ideea of the S40, but which has nothing to look for on the V50. As for reliability, as long as you replace the timing belt on time, you won't have any outstanding problems. Or any kind of problem.
• 1.8 B4184S11 of 125 horsepower – Borrowed from Mazda, this petrol engine is a symphony of sports, on a non-sports car. Comes with oil consumption and timing chain, this engine can be thirstier than it's larger 2.0 brother and needs revs to understand something of it, but it is definitely more fun. And it's prone to oil chugging later in life, as with most japanese petrols.
• 2.0 B4204S3 of 145 horsepower – Another living classic from Volvo, this 2.0 aspirated petrol with a manual gearbox represents a classic Volvo recipe, because the Volvo V50 is still half you, half me. This, half new, half old fashion.. By far the most reliable, even if it is a 3310 of the automotive world. Sure, it's a Mazda engine, but this one uses less petrol AND less fuel than the smaller 1.8 so it's an absolute win.
• 2.4 B5244S5 of 140 and 170 horsepower – We change the tone and we move from Mazda engines to proper Volvo engines, and go from 4 cylinders to 5 cylinders. As with any old-fashioned Volvo, as long as it gets new oil on time and stick to the maintainance schedule, you should have no problems with this straight-5 behemoth.
• 2.5 Turbo B5254T3 of 230 horsepower - Used extensively by Volvo and not only (see Ford Kuga or Ford Focus ST), this 2.5 Turbo in 5 cylinders is exactly what you need. Occasionally you will have to change the air flow meter, but in essence this engine is also built from the same materials as the Channel Tunnel.

Diesel

• 1.6 TDCI D4164T of 109 and 115 horsepower - You would recognize this engine from the Ford Focus II and Peugeot 307, and you would be right. Very dependent on quality oil, just as a rooftop party is dependent on pills, and if it does not have quality oil, the filter will clog and the turbo will be starved. And you will replace turbos because you didn't think of replacing the oil filter. The major change in this engine is that only the engine is of PSA origin, the engine annexes are made by Volvo. Unfortunately however the injectors are still PSA so they will require frequent replacement aswell. Just an overall NO of an engine.
• 2.0 HDi D4204T and D5204T of 136, 150 and 177 horsepower - We continue with the borrowed engines and come with problems with injectors, EGR, compressors, swirl valves and compressors, for the 136 horsepower engine atleast which is a PSA unit. The 150 and 177 horsepower units however are Volvo's own straight-5 recipes and those engines are fine pieces of automotive art. Definatelly worth it.
• 2.4D D5244T of 163 and 180 horsepower - And finally, we're logging off with Volvo's classic 2.4 straight-5 diesel. I'm not convinced that it's worth the extra taxes and extra fuel and the extra maintainance for not alot of extra oompf that it has over the 2.0D straight-5, but this is one glorious engine.

Volvo V50 Reliability Issues

• Because you have a Volvo V50, you are most likely a family guy who stays away from the latest news, so you still use a classic engine start key. Be very careful with this key because it has a habit of breaking bad more than the guy who played in Malcom in the Middle.
• I'm not too convinced with the automatic gearboxes... although, if you are the kind of family man who bought his Volvo V50, you probably want a classic manual gearbox. However, if you are thinking of leaving the car as a dowry to your grandchildren and you are thinking of an automatic transmission, be very careful not avoid one with the famous Powershift, the famous autotragic from Ford. As good as a beer spilled on the floor, isn't it Ford Focus III?
• Failures on the part of the ECU and especially for the steering column. Basically the UE goes into technical unemployment and you are left without the column blocker and practically remain stranded in the parking lot. 
• Diesel engines are prone to DPF, injectors, turbos failures and/or clogging. Basically, any problem under the sun. And so that you don't have a moment of respite, be very careful with the first engines because, although they are reliable, they are Euro 3. Then you've really screwed up.

Volvo V50 Verdict

Yes, that surfboard like dashboard is not for everyone. Yes, the dimensions are not up to Volvo standards. Yes, the reliability is not quite Volvo level either, because this car is not really 100% Volvo. It's like a kind of german doner. It's not really the original recipe, it has elements added by us because we like it and it's a slightly different experience. However, I have to repeat what I said in the S40 review. If you drive the 1.6 HDi engine from PSA and you don't take care of it as if it will quit at any moment, there is a good chance that you are just another member complaining on the Volvo forum that this is a bad brand and it is to be avoided .... Yes, there were serious issues with that engine and to top it off, that was the most popular engine. But if you avoid that engine and go for something else, maybe you won't see this car and this manufacturer with the same bad light with which I look around the park at night for the next bench to sleep on.

Which engines do I recommend? Honestly, the classic combination of 145 horsepower 2.0 petrol and a manual gearbox is the most Volvo among Volvos. But you will probably buy a 1.6 HDi and complain on forums and groups that the Volvo V50 is a car as wrong as the excessive media coverage of Jake Paul vs Mike deGrasse Tyson. However, since you're here and you want to be educated, then you must go for the 5 cylinder 2.0D diesel, in both 150 and 177 horsepower guises.

This Volvo V40 has nothing to do with the original V40, which was the predecessor of original V50. In fact, the Volvo V40 hardly has anything to do with Volvo. Built for a totally different audience than what we are used to, this is the second hatchback attempt of the nords. With prices that place the car in the VIP lounge of the hatchback segment, the Volvo V40 steps on the trails left by the Golf VI and Golf VII, competes with the Mazda 3 BM and stays away from the new A Class. So, you have a hatchback that you know nothing about and that demands more money than most cars in the segment.

Anyway, if you look at any Volvo from the new generation, you probably don't know much about cars and you don't want to know too much about cars anyway. And in the case of the V40, it's better not to know some essential details such as the fact that you have Ford and Peugeot technology on this car. You only know that it has many safety systems and that any car demands money. Although, if you want to buy a V40 you are probably under 30 years old and I wonder if at this age your #1 priority is safety in a hatchback. I understand if you have children that you are interested in safety, but a bag of seeds barely fits in the trunk of a V40, the basic luggage of a small child has no chance. So it's quite difficult for me to understand what they wanted to do here with the new V40. I know instead what they did with V33, an absolutely exceptional vodka, usually positioned on the bottom shelves of large stores. It usually costs as much as half a pack of cigarettes and gives you a good feeling for a few days when you don't know what's wrong with you or how the train stopped spinning again, before you sit down on a bench on the platform and take a nap, because you will definatelly wake up on a train station bench.

Volvo V40 Engines

Petrol

• 1.5 turbo B4154T5 and B4154T6 of 122 and 152 horsepower - Coming in 2016 in the form of T2 and T3, this engine is the famous VEA engine, only with one cylinder removed. In 2016, Volvo decided to make their own engines, so they made a 2 litre petrol and a 2 litre diesel, which they developed in various stages. And this is the light version, with one cylinder less. The 122 horsepower version especially is similar to an iPhone: expensive and slow.
  
• 1.6 EcoBoost B4164T of 150 and 180 horsepower – Here we have an engine "borrowed" from Ford, specifically from the Ford Focus. There are no notable issues with this engine, only that all that muscle seem to be rather fictitious, because the car definitely does not run as if it had at least 150 horsepower. Mind you, the coolant pipe tends to crack and the thermostat fails to pick up on the increasing temperature and so the engine might catch fire. Best to replace the coolant pipe as soon as you buy the car. If you manage to find an EcoBoost V40 that is.
• 2.0 Turbo B5204T4 of 122, 152, 190 and 248 horsepower - Now we are already talking about the serious stuff. If you strap 200 horsepower on a Volvo, you will surely go just as slowly because you have so many safety systems that will prevent you from enjoying the whole experience. Or you can be a true chav and deactivate them. Like the 1.5 3 cylinder, there are no specific issues with this engine.
• 2.5 Turbo B5254T14 of 250 horsepower - A really interesting choice, which nobody bought. Partly because it was available only from 2013 to 2015 so about 5 minutes in the real world, partly because it was too expensive because it was the top of the line V40, and partly because the V40 is not a ram jam of a car.

Diesel

• 1.6 HDi D4162T of 115 horsepower - The same 1.6 DV6 diesel that we are used to on Ford Focus II, Focus III, Peugeot 307 and so on. Basically, kind of the village bicycle but which breaks down every 200 meters. Dependent on quality oil changed on time just as I am addicted to Atlas beer, this engine promises to have fixed its past problems. Has it though?
• 2.0 D5204T straight-5 cylinders of 148 and 175 horsepower – The legendary 2.4D did not die, it shrunk and transformed to take its last hurrah under the hood of the Volvo V40. Retired by emission standards, this is also the end of the line for 5-cylinder engines in the world of compact cars. For car enthusiasts, this engine is the last call before closing.
• 2.0 VEA D4204T of 121, 152 and 190 horsepower – The VEA diesel engines are as complicated as the 1.5 TSI petrol engines from VW or the 2.0 diesel from Mercedes. In plain welsh, they are more complicated than my relationship with Sofia Boutella. It's very complicated. She doesn't know about my existence, but I know about her existence since 2003 when she was in Axwell's music video "Feel the Vibe". In order not to prolong it more about Sofia Boutella, I will say that these engines only need the highest quality diesel, otherwise the EGRs will fail more than people fall from their seats after drinking 3 Primator 24 Double pints.. In particular, the 2 litre D4 diesel is affected. This is because they have built a very complicated gas recirculation system to avoid installing an AdBlue system, and this water-cooled EGR is not the best unit around. And the intake manifold is prone to cracking.

Volvo V40 Reliability Issues

• Occasionally there are issues with keyless entry in the sense that the sensors no longer work as they should and the doors no longer open. For this you have two alternatives: You can repair the reception antenna or you can use the button on the keyfob.
• Pay close attention to the safety systems. Actually, scratch that, check absolutely all the systems and push all the buttons or as many as you can.
• The clutch pedal has a habit of squeaking, but the solution seems to be WD-40. Which is not a solution, but a spray. How confusing.

Volvo V40 Verdict

It wanted to be the successor to the S40, and it worked out. A simple, entry-level Volvo that is not exactly in the spirit of Volvo, but that gives you enough to be satisfied. It still has the surfing board on the dashboard, it has some power and a lot of safety kit. Although, making a car intended for the 40+ for the 30s is like trying to make Ray William Johnson relevant in 2025. It's like publishing the Yellow Pages for millenials. However, it has a bit of S40, it has a bit of C30 and practically tries its best to convince you that you can buy this car without waiting for the first signs of arthritis. And did it succeed? No.

What engines do I recommend? First of all, I only the straight-5 engines, Volvo's own recipe. So that's the 2 litre turbocharged straight-5 petrol and the 2.0 and 2.4 straight-5 diesels. And I guess you can cram in the 1.5 VEA turbocharged petrol too. But no VEA diesels.

What do you mean "buy a Mondeo"? Are you making fun of us, you butt-clown in a dress? How dare you compare Volvo, this car brand that is for our hearts what Sasha Grey was for their private parts. The best selling car Volvo had on offer in Europe. Which is ironic.

Ironic because the Volvo XC60 I was launched in 2008, when Volvo was still under the tyranny of Ford. So, the XC60 was built on the Volvo P3 / Ford EUCD platform. The Volvo S80, Land Rover Freelander II, Ford Mondeo IV or Ford Galaxy were also built on this platform, and the D8 platform from Jaguar Land Rover, namely the Range Rover Evoque and Jaguar F-Pace, would be born from this platform. As you can see, the XC60 is in such a big family that it celebrates the he spiritual victory of Dharma over Adharma.

And that made the Volvo XC60 I an interesting proposition. It was built on the Mondeo IV platform, a generally reliable car. It had the 4×4 system developed by Land Rover. It had engines and safety systems from Volvo's own recipe. It had a bit of everything, to make Volvo's best selling car full stop. What a going away present they got from Fix Or Repair Daily.

Volvo XC60 I Engines

Petrol

• 2.0 Turbo B4204T6 of 245 and 306 horsepower - The 245 is labeled as the T5 and the 306 is labeled as the T6, both being 4 cylinder oil chuggers. The major difference is that the T5 has just a turbocharger to work with, while the T6 has both the turbocharger and supercharger. Same as VW's 1.4 TSI TwinCharger. A brilliant idea. I say stick with the T5.
• 2.5 TurboB4204T11 of 254 horsepower – Or better yet go for the older 2.5 Turbo T5, one of their most glorious engines of all time. When you say Volvo, you mean either 2.5 T5 or 2.4 D5. This is what they are known for. And if you want this glorious engine but don't like the XC60, you can find it on the Kuga and the Focus ST.
• 3.0 Turbo B6304T2 of 285 and 306 horsepower - Even if it was launched 5 minutes ago, this engine seems to be quite reliable and you can buy it with confidence. Plus it has 306 horsepower. Sure, it may chugg on some oil every now and then, but them 300 horsepower are worth it.
• 3.2 B6324S of 238 and 243 horsepower – This is Ford's going away present and this is comparable to the old 2.5 Turbo but only on power. Much heavier on taxes and oil, this engine is best left alone to see another day.

Diesel

• 2.0 D5204T of 136 and 163 horsepower – Quite a good engine, IF IT WOULDN'T HAVE PROBLEMS WITH COOLANT LOSSES AND ENGINE OVERHEATING UNTIL THE ENGINE BLOCK CRACKS. But if you vigilant on the coolant level, you're only left with EGR and DPF fails. Especially with the DRIve engine, the famous VEA with the famous EGR.
• 2.0 Bi-Turbo D5244T of 181 and 190 horsepower – 2.0 D4 is part of the miserable VEA family and in addition has two turbos. The thing is that most engines have already had the EGR changed under recall, but it is important to check if the change was made to the car in question.
• 2.4 D5244T of 163, 175, 185, 205 horsepower – The legendary D5 sings its retirement under the hood of the Volvo XC60 I. Launched in 1695 by William Kidd while he was looking for an engine for his galleon, the 2.4 diesel was a legendary engine for reliability and performance. Unfortunately, he was strangled by the emission standards as if he had given money for this service, and in his job the XC60 has constant problems on the part of the particle filter, EGR and injectors. Yes, it's still reliable, but it's just a shadow of what it used to be.
• 2.4 Bi-Turbo D5244T of 215 and 220 horsepower – The same 2.4 D5, but with two turbos. You get 15-30 extra horsepower, but you pay a few thousand euros more for the car and you also have worse reliability. Pass.

Volvo XC60 I Reliability Issues

• Pay close attention to some models because they have front-wheel drive. Having an XC60 with front-wheel drive is like inviting Sofia Boutella to dinner, but then you find out that she is at a that time of the month. She looks great, but you can't enjoy her.
• And then comes the big one: the automatic gearboxes. The non-facelift version has a 6-speed gearbox and the facelift has a new 8-speed gearbox and none of them are reliable. All you can do is postpone the inevitable and change the oil every 3 years or 37,000 miles / 50,000 km. And if you feel that he panics or leaves the place only with protests, don't panic. That's what the gearbox does.
• It is an excessively expensive car on the used market, especially on the petrol side of ads. I am not exaggerating when I say that the Volvo XC60 I competes with the Touareg or Lexus NX in terms of prices.

Volvo XC60 I Verdict

In theory, it's a good car. You have the Mondeo platform which is reliable, you have 4×4 technology developed by Land Rover and you have Volvo brand safety and comfort systems. And you have that Volvo look that now, if I think about it, brings a bit of Ford Mondeo. Instead, the problem is with automatic gearboxes. And in this segment of cars, you usually go for the automatic gearbox. But that can be a good sign. If an automatic transmission is not reliable, it means that the car requires higher maintenance costs and thus keeps the poor away from it. Not every big boy can afford a Volvo XC60 I, and that's okay. As for 4×4, do you really need such a thing? However, most owners only drive it on tarmac anyway.

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol power clearly 2.5 Turbo T5 and for diesel or 2.0 D4 but make sure that the EGR has been replaced. Or the older 2.4 D5, but as long as you stick to a 5 cylinder Volvo diesel engine, you're good.

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I stick to the idea that the Volvo S40 II is not a relevant car for your Volvo experience. This is because the Volvo S40 II was born during the Ford lordship, when Ford kept Volvo on a shot leash and "borrowed" alot of it's technology. In case you didn't know, Ford bought Volvo in 1999 and passed it on in 2010. Ford borrowed a lot of technology from Volvo and almost sent Volvo to the financial bankrupt, with a stop to bankruptcy application. At least Ford gave them the XC60 as a going away present, which ironically turned out to be one of Volvo's best-selling cars.

So you have a Volvo built with Mazda, Peugeot and Ford parts, but the Volvo S40 II is mostly Volvo. And it seems that alcoholics in Sweden did not project their depression into the looks of the car, because the S40 still looks somewhat modern even in 2025. Yes, it has lagged behind in terms of technology, but the exterior and interior still look good, it looks like a proper Volvo.

Yes, it doesn't have the huge space of a classic Volvo like the V70. Yes, you are no longer 2 meters away from impact regardless of the corner from which you are hit, but the Volvo S40 II remains one of the most beautiful compact saloons in the segment. And I know a lot of people can't get used to that surfboard on board, but that's part of the Swedish charm.

Volvo S40 II Engines

Petrol

• 1.6 B4184S2 and B4164S3 of 100 horsepower – An entry-level petrol that actually does not have enough power to responsibly move the body, especially if you take passengers and/or luggage with you. As for reliability, as long as you change the timing belt on time, you won't have any outstanding issues. Or any kind of issues.
• 1.8 B4184S2 and B4184S11 of 125 horsepower – Another Volvo classic, which is sitting in the middle of the center. Slightly more powerful than the 1.6 but not quite the 2.0, and thirstier than both. I mean, it's not a bad engine if you find it and it's a step up from the 1.6, but if you can find a 2.0 then go for the 2.0.
• 2.0 B4204S3 of 145 horsepower – Another classic in life from Volvo, this 2.0 petrol is another absolutely decent engine that only needs the timing belt changed in time and that's about it. By far the most reliable, even if it is a 3310 of the automotive world.
• 2.4 B5244S5 of 140 and 170 horsepower – Sure, 4 cylinder engines are good, but 5 cylinders are better and much more Volvo appropiate. As with any old-fashioned Volvo, as long as it gets fresh oil on time and you stick to the maintenance, you should have no problems with this 5-cylinder in-line behemoth. It's a naturally aspirated lump so it is abit short on breath on bigger bodies such as the S60 and S80, but for the S40 it's just right.
• 2.5 Turbo B5254T3 and B5254T3 of 220 and 230 horsepower - Used extensively by Volvo and not only (see Ford Kuga or Ford Focus ST), this 2.5 Turbo straight-5 is exactly what you need in your life. Occasionally you will have to change the air flow meter, but in essence this engine is also built from the same materials as the Channel Tunnel. The only real issue with this engine is the poor fuel economy, but the raw power should offset this minor detail.

Diesel

• 1.6 TDCI D4164T and D4162T of 109 and 115 horsepower - You would recognize this engine from the Ford Focus II and Peugeot 307, and you would be right. Dependent on quality oil, just like how a rooftop party is dependent on pills, and if it does not have quality oil, the filter will clog and the turbo will starve. And you will change turbines because you didn't think to change the filter. And there's constant injector failures. This engine is the reason why Volvo has such a bad reputation in Europe, and unfortunately it was the most popular choice and it's the dominant engine on the used car market.
• 2.0 HDi D4204T of 136 horsepower - We continue with the borrowed engines and come with problems with injectors, EGR, compressors, swirl valves and compressors. Of course, you won't have them all at the same time and the engine is generally sturdy and much sturdier than the 1.6D Drive, but there are a few points to take care of.
• 2.0 D5204T of 150 and 177 horsepower - Volvo's straight 5 diesels are probably the most balanced engine choices for the european S40. Labeled D3 and up, these straight 5 engines are generally solid units, althought Euro 4 has brought along DPF and injector failures so be careful with it on cold starts, short trips, city crawls and driving in general. 
• 2.4 D5244T9 of 163 and 180 horsepower - The official chariot for the larger Volvos such as the XC90, XC60, S60, S80 and so on, but this engine was available on the S40. Marginal gains over the sort of light S40 so I don't think that you need to up the ante for the 2.4D on the S40. Especially since it's prone to the same failures as the D3, but it's heavier on the council taxes and insurance.

Volvo S40 II Relaibilituy Issues

• The key can remain stuck in the ignition cylinder and you can remain stranded. This is thanks to a key made at a dubious stall at the local flea market. No papers. Or witnesses. Or warranty. Or questions.
• An absolutely brilliant idea of ​​those from Ford was to throw away the boot locker and rely strictly on a electronic bootlid lock. We know very well that Ford and electrics get along as well as incense and heroin, so you have a very high chance that that lock will fail and the boot can only be opened with special tools from the dealership. But at least it looks good.
• Automatic petrols have poor fuel economy. They are built like a tank, but they certainly don't run like a tank. They run away as if someone had stuffed a nervous ferret in their panties and then hit it with chili in the eyes. Yes, the legend says that somewhere on the Volvo S40 II the miserable PowerShit gearbox from Ford would have crept in, but I forgot exactly on which engine.
• Another gift received from Ford is the ESP system. ESP failures for many cars from 2002-2008 because everyone turned to a supplier where the term quality control only refers to the quality of time spent by employees in the factory. So make friends with the VW Touran and find out how they solved their ESP failures.
• The typical Volvo suspension is a very good idea on absolutely perfect roads. Which creates a problem if you want to drive the car through Germany, Italy or Spain, countries where the roads are full of craters. It's good that in the UK this does not apply, not to our butter smooth roads.

Volvo S40 II Verdict

It still looks good, even 500 years after it was retired. Yes, it's a combination of Volvo with Mazda and Ford, three companies that have very little in common with each other. Basically, it's obvious that Ford bought Volvo (and Mazda) only for technology, and the Volvo S40 II was one of those experiments where parts were stolen from several dumpsters and an attempt was made to create a single car. It remains a fairly anonymous car in automotive history, because the V50 estate version was a real success, being a classic Volvo. But even an S40 remains an elegant car with an interior that does not show its age. 

Which engines do I recommend? Normally, the naturally aspirated 2-liter petrol engine and a manual gearbox are a classic recipe for the Volvo S40 II. But in the real world, by far the most balanced engine is the 2.0 D3 straight-5 Volvo diesel, with 150 or 177 horsepower. 

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Is the Porsche Cayenne 9PA industrial prostitution? Yes and no. It's because Porsche needed a volume car that would sell in large quantities and keep the company afloat. And so it was, except that it not only kept the company on zero but also brought it into the plus and enabled the financing of other Porsche monsters, such as the Panamera or Carrera GT or 10,000 special editions of the Porsche 911.

Why isn't it necessarily 100% industrial prostitution but rather 50%? Because the engineers at Porsche really took an interest in this generation of Cayenne and built it responsibly, with a lot of technology and built so well that it can withstand any abuse it will inevitably receive from the thugs who will steal it...sorry...buy it used in a few years and who doesn't know how to use a screwdriver because all he knows how to handle is a machete. And he doesn't know how to open an oil can because he only knows how to use a corkscrew and he doesn't even have time to go to the service because he's too busy threatening another thug, from another Porsche Cayenne 9PA, with messages and posts on Facebook because live broadcasts and TikTok hadn't appeared yet.

The first Cayenne is a car of excess but a car of the right excess. We have a real 4×4 system, we have German engineering and sturdiness worthy of the Golf IV and at the same time we have a monster capable of off-roading that approaches the Range Rover but we also have an asphalt SUV that takes on the X5, an SUV designed specifically for asphalt. And if it also has the right badge, then the recipe is perfect.

A recipe that worked great in 2005 when everyone had cash to burn. Times when people threw money out the window, usually the window of a Cayenne, Q7 or Range Rover if you were a high-ranking regional thug and a Touareg if you were an average thug and an E Class if you were the guy from the thug intervention. A car so excessive that it was one of the first victims of the 2008 crisis, and today the original Cayenne is a rarer presence than the Pope in public.

Is it worth buying a Porsche Cayenne today tho?

Yes and no. Theoretically, the first Cayenne is still a solid and reliable car, but you shouldn't equal reliable with cheap. Even if it is reliable, it is not cheap to maintain at all. 

Porsche Cayenne 9PA Engines

Petrol

• 3.2 VR6 EA390 of 250 horsepower – It is essentially the same 3.2 Vr6 from VW and shared with the Touareg, only it has an Porsche intake manifold and that is why it has 250 horsepower instead of 224 like the engine on the Touareg. Otherwise they are identical and are also suitable for LPG and are overall reliable and durable engines. The only expense that will hurt you will be timing chain which sits at the back of the engine so it's an engine-out job.
• 3.6 VR6 EA390 of 290 horsepower – In 2006 the 3.2 Vr6 engine is withdrawn from the program grid and is replaced with its bigger brother 3.6 Vr6 which is exactly the same story only a little bigger. But it still remains the most powerful engine that is reliable and civilized in running costs.
• 4.5 V8 M4800 of 340 horsepower – As with the previous engines, until 2006 we have a naturally aspirated 4.5 V8 for the Cayenne S and a 4.5 Turbo V8 for the Cayenne Turbo so I will move on and talk about the issues together.
• 4.5 V8 M4800 Turbo of 450 and 521 horsepower – Mercedes had just launched the ML 63 AMG and created a new market for a customer base that didn’t even know they needed something like this in their lives – a 4×4 SUV with 2 million horsepower. And the Porsche Cayenne Turbo was the answer to the ML 63 AMG. Unfortunately they made the same mistake as BMW and its E38 and used Lokasil (BMW used Nikasil in the 90s) for the cylinders and you have a good chance of melting the cylinders. The second issue was that they used plastic pipes for the coolant and you can see where this is going. Most engines have had aluminum aftermarket pipes fitted by now, but do yourself a favor and check. Or do even better and avoid this engine altogether.
• 4.8 V8 M4801 of 385 and 405 horsepower – As above, a new engine with a new concept and a new look is coming in 2006. It no longer has the issues of the previous engine, so the 4.8 V8 is left with only the PCV valve that cracks and needs to be replaced occasionally.
• 4.8 V8 M4801 Turbo of 500 and 550 horsepower – In addition to the PCV valve problem, you also have the problem of turbines that heat up and crack. Who would have thought that at 550 horsepower and 750 nM of torque the turbines would be worked more than an employee from a garment factory who has a delivery on the weekend. But still, you have at least 500 horsepower. These problems are really irrelevant.

Diesel

3.0D CNR / CNC of 240 horsepower – This engine is like the special guest at a wedding. It arrives late, doesn't attend for too long and costs a lot of money. Only available in 2009 and the first few months of 2010 until the next mode came, the only diesel available on the Cayenne 9PA is a decent engine but effectively so expensive that if you muster up an additional 3-4000 euros you can buy the next generation straight away. In any case, it's reliable but the timing chains will sting when it needs to be replaced since it's a pretty huge job.

Porsche Cayenne 9PA Reliability Issues

• I've already talked too much so I'll quickly go through the general reliability issues section because there aren't that many anyway. First of all, it's a very heavy car because the engineers have also fitted a proper 4×4 system, with locking differentials and all the fun. That means torment, shock and horror for the tires, brakes, steering and suspension. And considering that most Cayennes have rims from 20″ to 22″ and even more, the stress is even greater.
• Even though there are some versions for the poor, with classic suspension, most have suspension on cushions, which are expensive to maintain and are not maintained because most current owners don't have the money for something like that, so get ready and pick up the pieces because the situation is sad.

Porsche Cayenne 9PA Verdict

The original Cayenne reminds me a lot of the 7 Series E38, a luxury car that also offers driving pleasure. I mean, it's a luxurious and large car that comes with proper off-road cred but that also offers you driving pleasure. You have a high-performance 4×4, you have 300 horspowers on average but you can have 500 horsepower if that's not enouigh. You even have the option of a manual transmission. The Porsche Cayenne 9PA is like Manchester – a fabulous car, too bad it's populated.

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol power, either the 250 horsepower 3.2 Vr6 or the 500 horsepower 4.8 V8 Turbo, there is no middle ground. And for diesel, if you have some bizarre fetish with that kind of thing, the 3.0 diesel is the only pick anyway.

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If you are looking for a sports coupe from Hyundai or if you generally can't decide whether you want a 2-door or 4-door car and choose the middle ground, aka 3 doors which is literally the middle groud, then you definatelly need to take a look at the Hyundai Veloster FS.

But we should still talk more about the Hyundai Veloster FS than just the fact that it's a 3-door car. First of all, it's one of the strangest cars in terms of the car platform you use, because the first Veloster is paired with the Hyundai i20 and the Kia Soul. If you look at all 3, you could say that they look just as good as the Tate brothers. They look the same, but not really. At least the Veloster with the i20, the Soul being from another movie altogether.

Secondly, it was their sportiest car in a long time, if not their first truly sporty car since the defunct Tiburon. They brought a lot of experimental toys on the Hyundai Veloster FS, which also had a downside. As sporty as the car was and as hairy chested as the technology was, it was also fragile. Which is why the Veloster has an image in the US as good as fast food. Or like Steven Seagal.

So you would be tempted to say that the Hyundai Veloster FS was as brilliant an idea as bringing Piers Morgan to the Got Talent judge board, if you went by the Americans' standards at least. The 2.0 Turbo engine they received is indeed a nippy engine but not fantastic nor elastic. And neither is the dual-clutch automatic transmission. We Europeans, on the other hand, got the classic 1.6 petrol engine and a manual transmission and it's a completely regular car. It's an i30 with sports suspension and missing a door. And missing on rear visibility. But that's about it.

Hyundai Veloster FS Engines

Petrol

• 1.6 G4FC and G4FD of 130 and 140 horsepower – You may think absolutely nothing of the 10 horsepower difference, but the difference between them is quite big. The 130 horsepower is has the classic multi-point injection system used on the i30 and it is a problem-free engine. The 140 horsepower is GDI direct injection engine so will have to deal with the inevitable carbon deposits on the intake manifold. And the GDI engine is also prone to oil consumption, which the basic MPI one isn't. BUT the biggest difference is that the 130 version has an older torque converter automatic gearbox, and the 140 has the more responsive but less reliable double clutch.
• 1.6 Turbo G4FJ with 186 and 204 horsepower – Here we have the debut of the 1.6 T-GDI engine that would even be installed on the Tucson or Santa Fe. A fairly reliable engine, but be careful that it can leak oil at the turbo, and if you ignore them long enough and don't change the seals, you will be left without an engine. Also, there have been cases where the aux belt went "Aw snap, aw snap, come to the macaroni party and then take a nap", dealing quite some damage.

Hyundai Veloster FS Reliability Issues

• I was talking earlier about the DCT dual clutch automatic transmission which is to be avoided and I'll repeat it once again so you get the message. Hyundai and Kia have major reliability issues with this transmission so avoid it completely.
• The Veloster may have fantastic engines and bombastic looks, but its kinship with the i20 is evident in the cheap plastics inside.
• Rear and left visibility non-existent. Terry Crews could be singing "It's not unusual" on the roof and I wouldn't have the faintest idea. And since we're talking about visibility, I'll also add the panoramic roof, which has a tendency to crack.

Hyundai Veloster FS Verdict

If we were in America I would say it's not quite a full car and I would go to the supermarket to buy another semi-automatic. But we are in Europe. Even worse, in the UK. And for UK it's a really decent car, the first Hyundai sports car after the defunct Tiburon. And it definitely remains a rare car here for the simple fact that it has 3 doors. Hyundai Veloster, for the kind of person who isn't convinced he wants 2 doors, 2.5 doors or 4 doors so he buys 3 doors. I'm waiting for the 1-door version to appear. Although that would be the 6 Series, the official car of people without friends.

What engines do I recommend? The 1.6 naturally aspirated 130 horsepower petrol is all you need, although all versions are good. Just make sure it has a manual transmission.

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Volvo S40 I, Volvo V40 and the Volvo 850. These are the legendary Volvos that everyone worships when they say Volvo is #1. It's here that Volvo was truly at the top of the game, but many still live in nostalgia and in the past. Like those people who are still proud of the fact that we were the world's first manufacturing city. Or the people who complain that today's youth are broccoli heads and at they like to sit on a bench and criticise people for being w anchors, even if they too when they were of their age they were equally w anchors. It's the same with Volvo. Volvo S40 I was the last Volvo get-beget, after which it jumped from owner to owner like diseases from ass to hand.

The story begins in 1995 with the Volvo S40 I and Volvo V40, the successors of the classic 440 which was itself the compact version of the legendary 850. Initially it was supposed to be called Volvo S4, respectively V4 with the S from "Saloon" and the V from "Vendetta". The problem was that Audi had already released the S4 model and they were not amused by the fact that Volvo wanted to use the nameplate and were even willing to sue them. And since Volvo at the time bough under license the 2.5 TDI engine from VW for its own 850, they decided to give up the S4 and that's how the Volvo S40 I appeared.

Built in the Netherlands at a time when Volvo was still independent but not full of goodies, the Volvo S40 I was the Dutch's attempt to take on the BMW 3 Series and enter the area of ​​compact saloon with more momentum than Zinnedine Zidane's head took momentum when it hit Materazzi's chest. And like any average car manufacturer, although the Volvo S40 I sold more than 1 million units, Volvo had to turn to collaborations and the S40 was built on the shared platform with Mitsubishi Carisma and Mitsubishi Space Star, and the diesel engines are of Renault origin. But those diesels were put rather so that you could not say that there was no diesel avaiable, because in 1995 there was not so much emphasis on diesel.

So we move on to the main party piece of the Volvo S40 I. We have an incredibly reliable car even today, with petrol engines but which also have turbochargers, and you have those glorious Volvo brand seats. If you ignore the anemic 1.6 naturally aspirated entry-level petrol engine, the fun on the Volvo S40 I starts at 140 horsepower and ends at around 200 horsepower, which for the late 90s were serious numbers. Fudge it, some engines are still relevant today on the performance side. And honestly, this would be the reason why a Volvo S40 I is worth it, because if you want something that will take you from A to B, this car is probably not for you.

Volvo S40 I Engines

Petrol

• 1.6 B4164S of 105 horsepower - The entry level engine, for entry level needs. As basic method of transportation here and there, it's an ok engine. It has no specific issues, you just have to change the oil on time and you are on track. Although I don't really see why you would buy an S40 with this engine, unless you know nothing about cars and have found some bargain somewhere.
• 1.8 B4184S2 of 115 and 125 horsepower - I wouldn't bother with this engine because it can either be an Volvo engine or it can be an Mitsubishi engine, the famous GDI. I have talked extensively about this engine, but the point is that it suffers from carbon deposits and the intake manifold must be cleaned annually..I mean anally...I mean anually....I mean every year.. But I think that anal is also correct in this context. In fact, anal is correct in any context. In any case, I wouldn't get into this engine because, just like when you kiss a girl you met 5 minutes ago, you don't know exactly what you're getting.
• 1.9 Turbo B4194T of 197 horsepower - We are already in the area of ​​fun engines. This engine was available between 1997 and 1999, so the chances of finding it are lower than the chances that said girl will do anything more than a kiss. And when you find it, replace its spark plugs and coilpacks. And in rare cases, you also have to change the oil pump.
• 2.0 B4204S of 140 horsepower – Launched in 1990, the B4204S engine represents the genesis of modular engines, which were built up until 2016. Just like the 1.6 petrol engine, it is an engine rather from the duller side of life, and if you want to have a full-frat party experience engine, you have to go to the next level. In any case, it's not a performance engine but it's suited more for gently driving around.
• 2.0 Turbo B4204T of 160, 163, 172 and 200 horsepower - Arriving with the facelift of 2000 to take your money and your clothes when you step on the gas, this engine represents the glory of Volvo that everyone sings about. Great care was taken to change the timing chain and in this way you are only left with the appetite for coilpacks and general issues on the ignition side. But hey, when you have 160+ horsepower, it doesn't even matter anymore.

Diesel

1.9D D4192T of 90, 95, 102 and 115 horsepower – The 90 horsepower is an antique Renault unit, code name F8Q, the predecessor of F9Q used by Renault in the early 2000s. The rest are all Renault engines but slightly adapted by Mitsubishi. Very reliable (except the EGR) but incredibly slow and the diesel consumption is not low enough to justify the purchase over a naturally aspirated 1.6 petrol. Maybe only the 115 horsepower version would be worth the hassle, but that's about it.

Volvo S40 I Reliability Issues

• The Volvo S40 I has an increased appetite for light bulbs, so it is recommended to have a bag of light bulbs with you at all times. But at least you don't have to carry oil with you like in VW. Or spare ECUs like with Vauxhall. Or spare engines like with BMW.
• Central locking will give you constant headaches, if you care about central locking. After all, it's a 500 pounds Volvo, it's not a popular car among thieves.
• The Volvo S40 I comes from an era where petrol was worth as much as my bachelor's degree, so expect gas mileage that only 200 horsepower find acceptable. But the engines are LPG friendly, if you for some reason decide to keep it mid-long term.
• To make matters worse, the Volvo S40 comes with multi-link suspension and MacPherson shock absorbers so you can enjoy all 200 horsepower. Obviously, with a 100 horsepower version, it doesn't even matter what type of suspension it is, but if you want to drive fast, you can do it in bends as well. Only this suspension comes with a price. Literally.

Volvo S40 I Verdict

A car from another era, which we will not see soon. We have multi-point suspension. We have 150-200 horsepower engines. We have 8 standard airbags. We have those Volvo delicious armchairs. Basically, if you want a car for enthusiasts, a petrol Volvo S40 I is exactly what you need. And if you buy a lazy diesel, at least you have a safe and comfortable car.

Which engines do I recommend? Clearly the 2.0 Turbocharged petrol and it's 200 horsepower are the best pick, but any petrol engine is fine really. And for the diesel, the 115 horsepower 1.9D diesel is the one to go with. All the diesels are barely moveable, so atleast pick the most muscular one. I guess.

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Just like the original Duster, it broke the market's back because it was a very interesting proposal and was the go-to budget cross-over. It was a cheap and cheerful "car", until the facelift and the financial crisis came and it became an expensive car and, the love dwindled. But in the glory days of 2018, you could buy a new Duster for only 12,000 pounds and the 4×4 version started from an smidge over 14 grand. And today the Duster starts at 18,000 pounds in base trim and the cheapest 4×4 is 21,650 pounds at the time I wrote this review.

Why did they up the price so much?

Because until 2021, when Renault made the decision to move Dacia from the low-cost zone to the "best buy" zone, money was talking. And money are still talking but I can't hear them. And that's why the Duster has become too expensive, and the Sandero is #2 in sales in Europe at the moment because, guess what, the Sandero is still a cheap car (it starts from 11,900 euros in France because they still have the simple Sandero, we only have Sandero Stepway because we are too poor to buy something cheap). Yes, the 4×4 version is still sold because it is still among the cheapest 4×4 on the market, but as a city crossover, the light has gone out and not in a good way.

But let's also cry about the car.

Because we have something to cry about. Dacia Duster HM was a huge leap from the first Duster, even if we basically have the same 1.6 aspirated petrol as the base engine and, the piece of resistance, the same 1.5 diesel, with the same 4×4 system. And because we are in an online toilet where we discuss used cars, a Duster 1.5 diesel 4×4 is a very good purchase in the 12-15,000 pounds area and in the 10-12,000 pounds area it is already unbeatable. I mean, a 4×4 crossover from 2018 for 12 grand? Sure, it won't be no Porsche Cayenne, but for this money and for the work it's made to do, it's unbeatable. Of course, the quality is not necessarily the best, but some Dusters can even come with upper class options, such as the 360 ​​camera, sunroof, heated seats, induction phone charging support and many other options that the first Duster never dreamed of. It just depends on how much money you are willing to part with.

Dacia Duster HM Engines

Petrol

• 1.0 Turbo H5D of 90 and 100 horsepower - We open the list with a Dacia Sandero on the way, because that is exactly what the Dacia Duster 1.0 Eco-G is. An excellent car for the city, but that's about it, because it's essentially a raised Sandero. Front wheel drive only, manual gearbox only. As for reliability, we only have to mention the sensor from the LPG installation, which should already be changed following the recall, but you never know. There was also a non-LPG version of 90 horsepower, but in this case you're better off with a Sandero.
• 1.2 Turbo H5Ft of 125 horsepower - The seed of discord between Nissan and Renault and which made some waves in the courtrooms also for Dacia. In the case of Renault, the oil consumption is a "maybe", at Dacia it is "probable" and at Nissan it is "certain". If you're the type of person who often uses the "I'm feeling lucky" option on Google, this is the engine for you.
• 1.3 Turbo H5Ht of 130 and 150 horsepower - Fabulous engine. If it weren't so expensive. The petrol-powered village bicycle of the Renault village somehow ended up on the Duster but didn't go lower on the Logan and/or Sandero because otherwise you would have no reason to buy the Megane, Juke, Qashqai and most of the cars equipped with this 1.33 Turbo? Fabulous engine for the Duster, if you can afford it.
• 1.6 SCe H4M of 115 horses – The old aspirated 1.6 MPI sings it's final hurrah. An unpretentious engine, which does its job with dignity and without specific issues. Late in life he developed an addiction to oil, just as I am also addicted to the compilations of the great master performer Bomba Tomba.

Diesel

1.5 dCi K9K of 90, 95 and 115 horsepower – The legendary 1.5 dCi K9K which has been used since 1840 and actually fitted to everything from the Micra to the Megane to the Mercedes CLA. An engine at the end of its life, with all problems solved except for two. The first and only real problem is the AdBlue installation on the BluedCi versions (not all engines have AdBlue). And the second problem is the actual power of the engine,which isn't alot. Seriously, with a 1.5 dCi the fun ends at about 110 km/h, no matter what people write in the comments. Especially on the 90 horsepower version. But maybe you are not interested in going 150-180-200 km/h. Maybe you are happy to drive around constantly at 69 km/h, like me.

Dacia Duster HM Reliability Issues

• The EDC automatic box is reliable because the second generation Duster comes with the second generation EDC automagic, but there is also a dubious CVT gearbox in the lineup, that I would avoid.
• Quality issues on the interior and not only the interior, this is one of the main themes of complaints about the Duster. The concept of "quality control" is not really applied by the Dacia factories as it seems. So before you buy the car you will have to press all the buttons and pull all the plastics.
• The rust below collects like flies gather up at manure. It is usually superficial, but it is advisable to check it underneath before buying it.

Dacia Duster HM Verdict

Before the 2021 facelift that loaded it with equipment but also loaded it's price, Dacia Duster HM was still a cheap workhorse. What the Duster should be. In fact, if you ask me, the Duster is worth it in only two variants. The working man's 4×4 for those who want a work car, and the 1.0 turbo manual 4×2 version for a city cross-over. But 25,300 GBP for a 1.3 turbo manual 4×4? For me it is not justified. But it is good to know that it exists.

Which engines do I recommend? Honestly? I usually recommend a diesel and a petrol, but here all the engines are good except for the 1.2 Tce. Personally, I would choose the 1.6 SCe and it's 115 naturally aspirated horsepower, but any engine does its job honorably, for which it was made. A 1.0 Turbo is a city engine and it has nothing to do on a long road or rough terrain, just as a 1.5 dCi has nothing to do in the city.

Go ahead and laugh at me, but the Peugeot 208 P21 is a properly executed electric car, less so from the perspective of price, but we're getting there. But if you don't want to read more because you're still thinking about Miss High School when you were a freshman, then it's ok. I'll leave you at it.

But if you're not thinking about Miss High School because you know that Laquesha would never look at someone like you, so you've resigned yourself and wonder "how's Laquesha doing today??", then let's talk about the Peugeot 208, which it's actually the Stellantis 208. Sure, it was launched in 2019 and Stellantis was born in 2021, but the Peugeot 208 P21 was the basis of many Stellantis projects that they were going to come and it was a radical departure from the previous generation of 208, a correctly executed but boring car. So they had to go back to eating garlic sticks and dubious sexuality, and the 208 came quickly as probably the most beautiful supermini at the moment. And it also brought along its cousin, the Vauxhall Corsa, with which it shares the platform, engines and almost everything underneath, except that the 208 looks better, so you have to pay a few thousand more than the Corsa.

So, the Peugeot 208 is one of the main cars in the French offensive, cars you buy for the way they look and not necessarily for their reliability, basically we're back to the basics. 

What were you saying about electric?

Ah, yes. The 208 comes with a 1.2 turbocharged petrol that you don't want, a 1.5 diesel that doesn't match the city character of the car, a 180 hp 1.6 hybrid for which you'll pay the equivalent of 2-3 2010 Cayennes and which will break your legs in an orthopedic experiment, just as Vinnie Jones breaks the legs of the unlucky ones who enter the cage with him, and the electric version, the e-208. And I was surprised (I was going to say totally shocked) when I saw that there was also an e-208 with ridesharing company stickers on the car. At the time I wrote this literary calamity, the Peugeot e-208 started at 35,500 euros without any kind of discount, so you can lower it to 25-30,000 euros because I'm sure there will be some incentives and discounts available in your country. I don't know what deals they have over at Peugeot, I'm not paid by them or by anyone basically, so you will have to do the research yourself.

I talked more about the electric version in the Opel Corsa review, and yes, the electric Corsa starts at 31,500 euros without discounts, so you can leave with an electric Corsa for 21-22,000 euros, which is dangerously close to ICE versions. But for 3000 euros more you can look at an e-208 and not a Corsa-e. In any case, both for the Corsa and for the 208, the difference between the hybrid and fully electric engines is under 3000 euros and this is where the questions start.

And what questions, because currently both on autotrader and on mobile.de, approximately 25% of 208s are electric, which is alot for a car in general, not just a supermini. And I looked at these two sites because we are on Autodrivel and here we are not talking about cars bought by us, but cars bought by others from us and then bought by us. So yes, with a budget of 15,000 euros you can buy a Peugeot e-208 from 2020-2021, with 50-70,000 km. Now that we know this, we look at Peugeot and see that they offer a warranty of 8 years or 160,000 km, whichever comes first, for the electric drive train. Basically, if you bought a Peugeot e-208 from 2021 with 70,000 km, you still have a warranty of 4 more years and another 90,000 km left. And if your battery dies right after the warranty expires, and even if it costs you 10,000 euros, you still won because you paid 10,000 euros less for the car than new. The only real loss here will be the resale value of the car, which will hit you the same way it hit the person who bought it new.

Plus, here there is a ample discussion like the bust of Sofia Vergara, but there are already companies that don't replace the entire battery, only the faulty cells in the battery, and the costs are kept at a much more humane level. So who knows what the future will bring, but technology is progressing. In any case, with a used Peugeot 208 electric you can enjoy the horrible depreciation of electric cars, you can enjoy a few years of warranty and when you replace the batteries you will still be better off.

And why do I say that only the e-208 is a properly executed city car?

Technically, they are both e-208 and Corsa-e, but they are essentially the same car and we are in the Peugeot 208 review. I say about the e-208 that it is a properly executed electric car because the general problem with electric cars is range. Actually, let me rephrase that. The general problems of electric cars are autonomy and price. On the price side, the e-208 and Corsa-e are quite close to the regular versions, if you get discounts and incentives and grants, a trend I see from more and more manufacturers - the electric version costs a little more or even costs the same as the regular version.

And in this case, the only remaining hemorrhoid is autonomy, but there is also Hemoroeasy, 30 compressed tablets. I say this because an e-208 is strictly a city car, and this is where electric cars shine. First of all, they have greater range than on long journeys because they recover energy from braking. Secondly, even in the worst conditions, the battery lasts a week and you can charge it over the weekend. I repeat, in the worst conditions, -20 degrees and heat running full clock. Plus, you can always find the charging infrastructure, if you don't have the possibility to leave your car at home. And finally, the Peugeot 208 P21 was designed from the start to accommodate an electric version so you don't lose space at all. Not that you would have anywhere to lose space anyway.

Peugeot 208 P21 Engines

Petrol

• 1.0 FireFly of 70 horsepower - Available only for the South American market, this 1.0 naturally aspirated petrol is carried over from Fiat and is a decent engine for what it is. After all, the supermini segment over there is dominated by naturally aspirated 1.0 petrols. But enough about the engine, on to the rest of the car as the South American 208 is fairly different from the european 208. Higher ground clearance, higher approach angle, larger fuel tank, bigger rear seats, less options, less aluminium and more steel, that kind of thing. So it's cheaper and more adequate for worse quality roads.
• 1.0 FireFly turbo of 130 horsepower - By May 2022 the South American 208 received also the turbocharged version of the FireFly and I'm not sold on it as the naturally aspirated version is adequate enough and it keeps the price down.
• 1.2 EB2FA of 74 horsepower - No. Maybe the lower prices will grab your eyes and money upon purchase, but they will also take away your money when you have to replace the timing chain every 50 meters traveled. Or maybe even the crankshaft as the very first units had crankshaft play. Some of them were replaced under warranty, some of them were replaced by the owners, some of them weren't replaced at all.
• 1.2 EBADTD turbo of 100 horsepower - Same issues, but turbocharged. The engine, not the issues.
• 1.6 EC5F of 114 horsepower - Another South America exclusive, but this is even more exclusive, as it was sold only in Argentina. An old school naturally aspirated unit, which is reliable as long as you feed it the occasional oil, spark plug or coilpack. Nothing new, nothing great, nothing terrible. Worth buying. And it also comes in Flex-Fuel flavor.

Diesel

• 1.5 DV5 of 100 horsepower - Like a chav raging at you from an Astra H, this engine is a lot of noise and little performance. Plus it had timing chain issues at launch and the 208 is not a long-distance car anyway. And you can't really use it in the city anyway as you'll quickly clog everything, from the DPF to the injectors.
• 1.6 DV6 of 92 horsepower - If some of the petrol engines were South America exclusive, the old 1.6 HDi was Morocco exclusive. Sure, it had a terrible start in life, but nowadays it has most of it's issues sorted out. 

Electric

Electric motor of 136 and 154 horsepower - The range of the 136 horsepower version is 250 km, the 154 one comes with a larger battery and range of 400 km. I did my homework, and in winter conditions, where you use the heat pump to the maximum and make frequent stops, you have an range of approximately 150 km, and if you use it around town in the summer, without putting the heat pump to work, you have up to 530 km of range. And take care to keep the battery between 50 and 80%, never at 100% and ideally never use fast charging.

Peugeot 208 P21 Reliability Issues

• The start/stop system is not optimized and drains your battery if you're using it intensively as I used Hemoroeasy.
• You don't have physical buttons and knobs for the climate control, sou you'll have to navigate on the infotainment system whilst driving and good luck with that.
• Modest visibility. Yes, with a Peugeot 208 P21 you are very visible from the outside because it looks very good and is quite exclusive, but you have no visibility to the outside. The windshield is for children, the steering wheel is for children, the rear window is for children. What did Peugeot want to say with this 208??
• And as I said about visibility for children, the whole car is for children because it is very cramped, especially in the back. It's a tight car inside. Like Miss High School.

Peugeot 208 P1 Verdict

It's hard for me to believe that I wrote 1900 words about the Peugeot 208 P21, an unexpectedly good car, which surprised the car market more than Mason Greenwood and Phil Foden were surprised in hotel rooms, with other people's women. So I won't hold you back any longer and I remain at the conclusion that the Peugeot 208 is one of the best electric city cars at the moment. 

Which engines do I recommend? The electric motor, which until 2023 came with 136 horsepower and 250 km range when new, and after 2023 came with 154 horsepower and up to 530 km of autonomy. And if you're from South America, the 70 horsepower, naturally aspirated 1.0 FireFly is just right.

All the hysteria begins in 1983 with the launch of the Peugeot 205, a small, simple and fantastic car. Then came the 206 and 207, which were small and simple cars, but quite not fantastic. Not even average.

 And now in the modern era Peugeot is trying to keep the supermini relevant by showing us the Peugeot 208 A9. They have definitely achieved something there with the GTi version which really brings back the old and glorious Peugeot 205 GTi and you can see that the french really tried.

And the regular, day to day versions?

Those unfortunately weren't tried for enough. The charm of the old 206 was that you had a cheap and cheerful car for the urban jungle. For the sort of person who doesn't know anything about cars and doesn't want to bother knowing about cars. The kind of person who is seriously thinking about LPG conversions to save money on fuel, and who searches for 2 weeks through auto parts stores to get the lowest price. He is not interested in the quality of the parts as much as he is interested in the price. For the Peugeot 208 A9 owner, the car should take him from point A to point B as cheaply as possible. The problem is that a Peugeot 208 A9 costs 14,000 euros new, whilst a Dacia Sandero used to cost 60% of that. But forget the Sandero, UK's cheapest car, a Suzuki Swift costs just slightly above the 10 grand mark. The Hyundai i20, the segment leader in supermini world of 2020, starts at 11 grand. In fact, with the money you spent on a Peugeot 208 A9, you could buy an i30 or a Duster, possibly even both.

Therefore, you have to be a very dedicated person with a constant fetish with garlic sticks in order to buy a new Peugeot 208. Or maybe you have Gerard Depardieu's portrait in your bathroom and he encourages you to buy french. But if we buy it used? Is it worth it tho?

Peugeot 208 A9 Engines

Petrol

• 1.0 VTi EB0 with 68 horsepower - It's good that they put only 68 horses and not 69, otherwise you would be hoping for something good to come out of it. It's hard to believe that there are engines slower than the old 1.9 SDI from VW, but here we are. If you take it to walk around town at 40 km/h, it's an ok engine. But that's it.
• 1.2 VTi EB2F of 82 and 110 horsepower – This little prince of an engine ruined the reputation of Peugeot and Mini, being developed by Peugeot and BMW. Legend has it that with the Peugeot 208 1.2 PureTech you also get a complementary t-shirt with your picture, address and number in case you get lost, a complementary lollipop and a helicopter hat
• 1.4 VTi EP3 of 95 horsepower - You have the same mechanical issues, but less problems in general. And at 95 horses we are already talking about something else. We have already advanced from the pogo-stick to the electric scooter and here you have the most balanced engine available on the Peugeot 208 A9, even with it's timing chain premature wear.
• 1.6 VTi EP6C of 120 horsepower – An excellent engine for the Peugeot 208 A9 but which costs so much that you'd might aswell go straight for the GTi version. If you still stay with the aspirated version, you will have to occasionally feed it with coil packs and complementary timing chains.
• 1.6 THP EP6DT Turbo of 155, 200 and 208 horsepower – The sensational engine on the Peugeot 208 GTi pays homage to old school hot hatches. Just make sure to take care of the premature timing chain stretch and otherwise you will have fun that will make you stop at every gas station bathroom. With napkins, hand soap and an open mind.
  

Diesel

• 1.4 e-HDI DV4 of 68 horsepower – Ideal for moving a wheelbarrow, this proper midget of an engine comes with big ideas to topple the big boys of the automotive world. Unfortunately, it is so microscopic that it overheats when it tries to move faster than 2 miles an hour.
• 1.5 HDi DV5 of 102 horsepower – Launched 2 minutes before the official retirement of the Peugeot 208 A9, this engine is meant to be the reliable replacement of the 1.6 HDi. Fairly reliabile and economical engine, although the very first engines came with a timing chain which was too thin and it rattled and wore much faster than it should've. Realistically the timing chain has been replaced with a larger, sturdier one in the meantime, but you never know. An average, peppy, economical engine in general but not quite suited for the city life as the modern emissions devices such as EGR and DPF will get you.
• 1.6 HDi DV6 of 75, 100, 102 and 120 horsepower – Retired in 2019 by the 1.5 HDi, this is the end of the line for one of the worst engines in the automotive industry. An engine that single-handedly ruined the reputation of Peugeot, Volvo, Ford and Mini. IN 2020 however most of the issues are solved and it should be a decent engine.
  

Peugeot 208 A9 Reliability Issues

• "Oh snap!" - said the parking brake cable which can fail and you can remain stuck in the parking lot. Unfortunately, it's a classic scenario of "it happens" and you will have to leave by taxi to work and the car will have to leave on the towtruck's flatbed.
• The front coilovers are built of smiles and hope and they wear out faster than my patience at work on the first day after vacation.
• The intake manifold gets clogged, a scenario valid for all direct injection petrol engines. Moreover, there is a more serious issue with the VTi engines. The camshaft has a play of up to 0.5 mm and this ultimately leads to the destruction of the engine. The problem was found with the 1.2 PureTech engine, but it is good to check the status with the other engines as well. After all, it is an engine made by the French in collaboration with BMW, there is no way it will turn out well.
• For diesel engines, be very careful with the oil change interval. Besides that, the oil pump usually has a habit of failing.
• And because the French are not racist at all and do not discriminate against anyone, the electrically operated water pump could not be ignored, as a result it does not always start. Not much of an issue on short distance city driving, but on a longer drive it might fail.
• The 2-Tronic robotic automatic gearbox proved to be a failure, as is with pretty much every robotic gearbox from every other French manufacturer. Isn't that Dacia?
• Next onto the alternator which has a habit of not charging the battery and leaving you stranded in the parking lot. As with the parking brake, you will have to take a taxi into town. Kind of a theme going on here. 
• Last but not least, the infotainment system is based on an operating system used on ancient 486 computers and has a tendency to freeze / reset / close. This means that you are left without satnav, without display, without media, without music, without hope for life, you are left only with the regrets that YOU SPENT SO MUCH MONEY ON A PEUGEOT LEMON.

Peugeot 208 A9 Verdict

The Peugeot 208 A9 proves that you can make bad cars even when you play in the segment where you theoretically make simple, cheap and reliable cars and play it safe. And this can be seen in the number of sales on the used market, but also from the fact that a Peugeot 208 has a price comparable to that of the Sandero from the same year, even if the new purchase price was almost double.

Which engines do I recommend? It's hard for me to believe that there will be too many people who will use a Pug 208 for the long drive. So I will recommend the 1.4 VTi 95 horsepower petrol engine, and if you somehow have to drive a diesel, then the 68 hp 1.4 e-HDi is for you.

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Initially, I was skeptical about this car because the previous generation Mazda 2 is / was overrated on the used market and I never really understood why. It was built on the Fiesta V platform, but it cost the same as the Fiesta VI, and it wasn't even a good enough of a car as to convince me to pay 50% more than I would have paid for a Fiesta from the same year or 30% more than a Polo from the same year.

But what about the Mazda 2 DJ? We are returning to our origins and the future sounds good. Mazda got rid of Ford's tyranny and it's back to the roots. In fact, it's not really 100% Mazda because the car is built in collaboration with the Toyota Yaris. Sure, it uses a shortened CX-5 platform , but many things are in shared with the Toyota Yaris, so we basically sacrifice the sportiness of the Fiesta and bring the reliability of the Toyota. Now if I sit and think, I realize why the new Yaris looks so sporty and aggressive, because they drank sake together with the people from Mazda.

So we have the smallest Mazda for sale at the moment and it's an excellent car. It would have been even more excellent if we had also caught the saloon version, but you can't have everything in life and also the Mazda 3 wouldn't have sold so well. The rest is typical Mazda fun. We have the same petrol engines as before, only they received the SkyActive treatment and we have a diesel that you don't want because it's a Mazda 2 anyway and it should be a city car.

We no longer drive standing up, we have a decent standard equipment list, we have decent quality, we have almost everything you could want from a city car and the major advantage is the price. As a starting price, the Mazda 2 DJ is cheaper than the Polo, Fiesta, Hyundai i20, Skoda Scala, Suzuki Swift and is beaten only by the Kia Rio, Renault Clio and the elephant in the room, the Dacia Sandero. And now I had to talk about the fact that Mazda are the only ones that still offer aspirated petrols for larger cars like the 3 or 6 or CX-5, but I forgot that in the supermini class, many still offer naturally aspirated engines. And then what else does the Mazda 2 DJ offer apart from the good looks and the Henry Cavill chin? Well, if you have enough money, you can go for the sports versions, but you will most likely buy a basic or middle version or 2 Sanderos for the same money.

Mazda 2 DJ Engines

Petrol

• 1.3 SkyActive-G P3-VPS of 93 horsepower – The basic engine for the Mazda 2 and honestly you don't even need more power to go around town and occasionally on a B road. But honestly the life of this engine will be in the city, from traffic light to traffic light, and for this job this engine is exactly what you need.
• 1.5 SkyActive-G P5-VPS of 75, 90, 110 and 115 horsepower – Here we have the same engine but in different power configurations that depend how much money you have really. Honestly, if you are not going to buy the Takumi package and all it's 115 horsepower, there is no point in complicating yourself with something else because the 1.3 is identical to this but costs less to run and does the same job.

Diesel

1.5 SkyActive-D S5-DPTS of 105 horsepower – No. Sure, it may be smaller than the 2.2 diesel as the Mazda 3 or 6 do, but that doesn't mean that it's any better. The DPF still fails it's regeneration and throws diesel into the oil stream, but the main concern here is that it is a very complicated and very rare engine, so you will pay some astronomical prices for the inevitable repairs.

Hybrid

• 1.5 Petrol hybrid P5 of 90 and 115 horsepower - Like any modern manufacturer, they had to bring a Mild Hybrid version for small, city engines. The big difference compared to the simple petrol engine is not that there is not much to tell and recommend.
• 2.0 Petrol Hybrid SkyActive-G P5-VPS of 140 horsepower - This engine just got launched in 2024 so there's not much to talk about it's reliability. But there wasn't much to talk about it's reliability in the past also, so don't worry about it. Sure, it will demand the occasional spark plug and quart of oil, but only late in life and the Mazda 2 generally doesn't get to that kind of mileage. However I'm not convinced of a big engine in a small car, and with a hybrid powertrain and battery chewing away in a car where space is already at a premium.

Mazda 2 DJ Reliability Issues

• Some petrol engines may suffer from oil pump failures, but at the moment there are not astronomical mileages like in larger cars to be certain of it happening.
• More failures on the air conditioning side where the compressor and the heater core can fail and this may mean that you have to dismantle half the car because it's a dashboard out type of job.
• It looks good on the outside and it looks good on the inside, but that comes with a downside. On the outside, the paint is stuck to the bodywork via toilet paper and at the first rain it softens and you are left without paint. The second problem is that the interior CREAKES LIKE THE BED OF THE NEIGHBOUR ABOVE AND WHY CAN HE GET TO CRUSH SO MUCH POON AND IM STUCK WITH A PODCAST ABOUT HOW TO BE A MAN AND PICK UP WOMEN BUT THE ONLY THING I PICK UP IS THE GARBAGE WHICH IS MYSELF.

Mazda 2 DJ Verdict

If you are looking for a supermini, then the Mazda 2 DJ is one of the serious candidates for your money. Of course, it is somewhere in the middle of the center and you have alternatives that are cheaper but also more expensive, so the question arises, why buy one and not the other? Because for 13,000 GBP you get a Mazda 2 DJ in base trim that looks the same as the most expensive one and, most importantly, you get that 1.3 petrol, which is all the engine you need. You are not forced to buy a more expensive version of the Mazda 2 just because the entry level model has a 0.8 litre unusable engine. And it looks good too.

Which engines do I recommend? Honestly the 1.3, 93 horsepower petrol is all the engine you'll ever need in a Mazda 2. But if you insist for a diesel you only have one choice anyway.

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We continue the same recipe with the Mazda 2 DE and basically we have a more bland yet comfortable Ford Fiesta. Just like the original Mazda 2, the Mazda 2 DE sacrifices the sportiness of the Fiesta and goes more into the comfort zone. It's just that unlike the original Mazda 2, now we no longer have the form of a compact minivan and now it's closer to a supermini. Instead, we have the same B3 platform from the first Mazda 2 and from the Fiesta V, so we don't see big improvements and plus that in this way Ford kept the Mazda brand on a short leash so that it didn't end up being eaten like what happened to VW with Seat and Renault with Dacia .

But at least we no longer have that minivan look and we have some essential comfort changes. We still have acres of windows and a higher seating position, but the most important thing is that we have the dash mounted shiter and above it we have the climate control buttons and in this way it is an even easier car to drive.

For the rest, we still have a diesel engine on duty and that should encourage you to drive a Mazda 2 DE on a long trip, although I'm not entirely convinced why you would want to do that. Especially since now it's an even more city car than before. Of course, there is also a saloon version available but not in Europe and that could be ready for a long journey but at the same time they didn't get the diesel engines so everything connects as well as Lloyd's thoughts. Mazda 2 DE – a Ford Fiesta for the elderly who spend their time on TikTok but who need a taller car because no one escapes from arthritis, just because they don't really have the money for a proper SUV.

Mazda 2 DE Engines

Petrol

• 1.3 ZJ-FE and SkyActiv-G P3-VPS of 75 and 85 horsepower - The same 1.3 ZJ-FE of Mazda recipe and which has no specific issues and is also the most popular engine on this not-so-popular car. It's like bragging that it's the best-selling drink in a hipster pub where no one goes because hipsters don't go to pub because it's too mainstream for them. Also, the SkyActiv-G debuts on the Mazda 2 aswell but it's a pretty rare find.
• 1.5 ZY-FE of 102 horsepower – Here we have a small problem. Sure, the 1.5 is just a bigger version of the 1.3, only that the 1.5 also came with the sport packages and hoonigan tendencies. Because why not, after all the Mazda 2 is a blobbier Fiesta, so it can surely run, and if the Fiesta 1.6 can run, why can't the Mazda 2? And the main issue is that if the engine is punished as if it had 250 horsepower, somewhere late in life it will start chugging on oile. Not likely, but good to know.

Diesel

• 1.4 MZ-CD Y4 of 68 horsepower – The same 1.4 CDTi / HDi / TDCi of Peugeot origin and with the same appetite for injectors. Thank you based Mr. Satoshi Tachikake for retiring it in 2007.
• 1.6 MZ-CD Y6 of 90 horsepower – Yes, the same 1.6 HDi / CDTi / TDCi but here at least you don't find it that often because it was already too expensive for the Mazda 2 and it wasn't even suitable for the urban character of the car. If you want to read more about this mechanical abortion, you have the Ford Focus review for that.

Mazda 2 DE Reliability Issues

• Multiple failures on the ABS side, whether we are talking about wheel speed sensors, the ABS pump, ABS ring or anything else in between. But it's good at least that in the city you don't need ABS all that much so nothing of value was really lost.
• It's a budget Ford, so you have to expect the typical electric gremlins, and here you have everything from the alarm to power steering to battery to interior plastics.

Mazda 2 DE Verdict

It is an evolution of the first Mazda 2 because it is built on the same platform. Sure, it looks better, but you don't get much in terms of practicality. And then comes the biggest problem of the Mazda 2 and Mazda in general – the used market prices. A 2008 Mazda 2 costs 50more than a 2008 Fiesta V and a 2010 Mazda 2 costs the same as a 2010 Fiesta VI, even though that is a different car with a newer platform. So I would recommend this car, but not at the current prices.

Which engines do I recommend? The 1.3 petrol should be all the engine you need, but if you insist on a diesel then the 90 horsepower 1.6 CDTi. Why tho?

Basically, for the Mazda 6 GJ the recipe of the previous generation was taken and slightly stirred but not enough to create a splash: We come with vastly improved looks, we come with some excellent petrol engines and we don't complicate ourselves with engines that feed from the black pump.

It's just that now they have improved the looks so much that they have attracted new customers and mainstream customers at that, not just passionate about parking lot thrills and Mountain Dew. Because the previous Mazda 6 GH was addressed to those hoonigans who had a Mazda MX-5 but whom life forced them to buy something with more than 2 seats and 2 doors, and the Mazda 6 GG is a car only for thrill-seekers or enthusiasts of trouble-free Euro 3 diesels. It's just that now the Mazda 6 GJ is one of the most beautiful saloons on the market and naturally they have attracted mainstream customers. In fact, it's one of the most beautiful saloons at the moment, kind of a Margot Robbie on wheels and you can see that on the streets. Even if it has a high purchase price, the Mazda 6 GJ is a much more popular presence on our country's roads than the previous generation.

And how were they received by the market?

If you don't make the mistake of complicating your life with a diesel, you'll be happy to learn what an old-fashioned Japanese petrol is about. Mazda has remained famous in the automotive world for the fact that they are the last of the Mohicans at the naturally aspirated table. And this is not because a naturally aspirated petrol is more reliable than a turbocharged one, but because a naturally aspirated petrol has power only in the upper range of revs and that means also alot of fun. They probably would have had money for a turbocharged engine, but they decided for the Mazda 6 GJ to stick to the spirit of pure Mazda. A car made for enthusiasts. That is if you don't buy a diesel and you will be left with the sour taste that Mazda is one of the worst car brands money can buy. But you hardly even needed a diesel anyway, because Mazda decided to launch the SkyActiv-G engines, which have a far better fuel economy than the rest of the competition, thanks to it's clever design. 

Mazda 6 GJ Engines

Petrol

• 2.0 SkyActiv-G PE-VPS of 145, 155 and 165 horsepower – Coming to retire the old MZR, this SkyActiv-G aims very high and mighty to maintain Mazda's reputation. The first units had issues with the oil pump, but most of them have been solved now and the 2-liter petrol engine remains the most balanced choice for the Mazda 6 GJ, outside of North America. And Canada. And Australia. And anywhere fun is not punished.
• 2.5 SkyActiv-G PY-VPS of 187, 194, 227 and 250 horsepower – Also coming to retire the old 2.5 MZR L5, this engine represents a portion of American life and is by far the best engine. But because the state gives you a black eye in terms of taxes for any engine larger than a blender engine, you will have to settle for the fantastic 2.0. But if you're allowed to have engines larger than a bottle of milk, then this is the best engine to go for. As with the smaller 2 litre sibling, somewhere late in life it will start demanding oil and it will demand the occasional spark plug and ignition coil, but nothing really surprising or costly.

Diesel

2.2 SkyActiv-D SH-VPTS of 173 horsepower – The same diesel from Mazda that we are used to and which ruined the image of the brand. You still have an increased oil level because the particulate filter fails to complete regenerations. Unburnt diesel remains, which ends up in the oil and slowly raises the level, but also the scandal in the engine. Fortunately, the DPF is monitored by electronics more than Hannibal Lecter, so you are immediately alerted to the problem. Yes, sometimes this diesel also has turbino failures. Or rather just buy a petrol.

Mazda 6 GJ Reliability Issues

• The gearbox does not want to switch between gears, more specifically gears 1 and 2. Or maybe you have to change the oil every 4 hours. Or maybe you go and sit at the service shop lounge area next to the guy with the Hyundai ix35, as he also has issues with gears 1 and 2 on his gearbox.
• The door seals melt at high temperatures (over 40 degrees Celsius / 100 degrees Fahrenheit) because they are made out of chewed gum. That's what you get for being a snob and buying a car with door locks.
• You still don't get a spare wheel. But it's not that bad, because the sort of person who buys a Mazda 6 GJ doesn't even know basic mechanics and dials up the Alcoholics Anonymous anyway. Or whatever the AA stands for.
• Mazda 6 GJ has a tendency to eat front brakes, sometimes earlier than 15,000 km. But it's not bad, unless you bought a 2 liter 150 horsepower petrol engine and then you drive it as hard as Trump drove his presidential campaign.

Mazda 6 GJ Verdict

An excellent car that has evolved a lot. It's just that below it lags somewhat behind the competition. And when you consider the fact that a Mazda 6 GJ costs more than a Passat or a Mondeo, you start to wonder if the Japanese have any idea what they're doing or if they just have an employee forgotten in a closet who makes up the prices on the spot. And you would think that the whole basis is in a Japanese forgotten in a closet, because a Mazda 6 costs more than a CX-5 and then comes the question of the buyer who is not interested in sportiness: "Why should I buy an outdated saloon while I can get an SUV and save money?". Mazda 6 GJ – the car that the finance department has never seen. Mazda 6 – the Vauxhall Vectra C of our time. They just thought it was a bigger Mazda 3 sedan, they went to random.org and what number came up, that's the price.

What engine do I recommend? Because they didn't bother to change the original recipe because it was so good, the 2-liter petrol still remains as a balance in life in Europe, but the absolute best engine to buy is the 2.5 SkyActiv-G petrol. Seriously, it's that good.

Arriving in 2008 to retire the first generation, the Mazda 6 GH realized that it is not enough to come only with some sports creds in the competitive saloon segment. Mazda 6 GH realized that it had to come with some looks that would convince people to throw a few tens of thousands of greens for a new car, given that in 2008 we were right before the crisis and people were throwing money out the window, usually out the window of a Cayenne.

Built on the Ford platform, you could say that the Mazda 6 GH is a more fun Mondeo IV. But it's not, because the original recipe was kept: many reliable and sporty petrol engines but they didn't bother with diesel engines and carried over the old one. What was in their mind? Since you see that everyone buys diesel in this segment, you insist on coming up with a sports sedan, without making a minimal effort for a better diesel and going all-in on petrol? They worked on the looks department, they worked on the quality department, but they didn't work on the most important weak point: the diesel engine.

You don't have to be street smart to realize that the Mazda 6 GH was not a commercial success in Europe. However, the good thing is that the Mazda 6 GH remained a car for petrolheads. Just like the Honda Accord VIII, the Mazda 6 GH is aimed at people who had a Mazda MX-5 in their youth and who now need something for the family, but who don't want to give up their inner hoonigan. 

Mazda 6 GH Engines

Petrol

• 1.8 MZR L8 of 125 horsepower – The same 1.8 MZR carried over from the previous generation because it is that good. Japanese reliability and lots of fun. Anyway, no one bought this engine because all the fun is with the bigger engines. Yes, somewhere late in life these engines begin to develop a chronic dependence on oil.
• 2.0 MZR LF with 147 horsepower – This 2.0 MZR also runs on oil late in its life, but the rest of its reliability and excellent performance make this chain-driven engine the most balanced choice for the Mazda 6 GH.
• 2.5 MZR L5 of 170 horsepower – Out with the old 2.3 and hello the 2.5 MZR L5. Built mostly for the North American market, this engine was the basis for the Ford hybrid offensive, powering the Fusion, the Escape and so on. And yes, it's somewhat competing with Toyota's 2.4 litre 2AZ-FE. And yes, it's the gutless Fusion engine, which needs to be revved constantly in order to understand anything from it. But that's the whole point of the Mazda, make it sing!
• 3.7 V6 Duratec 37 of 272 horsepower – Released only for America, this engine was also put on the 2011 Mustang. Just wanted to write this. Sure, the americans will laugh at the entry-level engine for the Mustang, but this engine also powered the Taurus and Explorer police interceptors and somehow powered the Mazda 6 aswell. 

Diesel

• 2.0 MZR-CD 140 horsepower – The old engine was kidnapped in the middle of the night, parts were stolen from the Ford dumpster and modifications were made so that this diesel is no longer as bad as Michael Jackson's hit. A decent diesel, but not impressive at all. It suffers from the general issue that we discuss below, but overall it is the sort of engine which is "there". Attention, this is not the 2.0 diesel used on the Mondeo, this is Mazda.
• 2.2 MZR-CD of 130, 163 and 180 horsepower – This is where the fun begins. In particular, the injectors and the the issue shared with the other diesel. Also, the timing chain will wreck yourself before you check yourself.

Mazda 6 GH Reliability Issues

• Not much changed in the diesel department from the previous generation, so there's issues with the particulate filter and it's failing regenerations. If you are an average balkan enjoyer, you probably got rid of the particulate filter a long time ago, so you can move on. For the others, on the other hand, you should know that many times the regeneration fails and the engine oil gets contamited with diesel. If it accumulates too much, the engine swims in oil like in an episode of Spongebob and your mechanic swims in money. It is extremely important to constantly check the oil level in these engines, and I don't mean if it has too little oil, but on the contrary, it must be checked if it has too much oil.
• As with the BMW E90, Mazda considered that a Mazda 6 GH does not need a spare wheel, so it was not included in the standard equipment and you received a complementary repair kit instead.
• Petrol engines work only at high revs, so many people complain about their lack of power. They are not lazy, they just need to be revved constantly. If you don't like revving your engine, go buy a Altima.
• The manual gearbox needs oil changed regularly, more regularly than what you'd normally expect. Don't wait for the 90,000 miles mark, do it at 60,000 miles.

Mazda 6 GH Verdict

Maybe if Mazda worked abit more and made the diesel engines reliable, it most certainly would have been more successful. Or maybe the Mazda 6 GH didn't need a bigger success. Because it's already a car with an established fanbase and for those two people who want something other than a Mondeo or a Passat, it's not worth the financial effort. Or maybe this will convince them to buy a petrol powered Mazda 6 and live the full Mazda experience. As for me, this remains one of my favorite cars. Mazda 6 GH, chapeau.

Which engines do I recommend? If you live in Europe, then the 2.0 147 horsepower petrol is the stuff of dreams. If you live in North America or Australia, then the 2.5 lump is the one to go for. The other engines cannot compare with this engine that offers everything you want: reliability, sportiness, low taxes and relatively low maintenance costs

The first generation Mazda 3 came as a logical continuation of the old 323, a fun car for hoonigans who want to have fun but don't have the money for it because all they can afford are vending coffees somewhere in a parking lot because everyone blew their 23 pounds last week on KYB shock absorbers #jdm #nfs #drift #fwd #vtec #yolo #vape #live #laugh #love #golf4 #samsung #chav #wrestling.

Then the Mazda 3 BL came and ruined the whole thing, being a cheaper and worse version of the Focus and in this way Mazda shot themselves in the foot. So they had to come with the Mazda 3 BM and solve the problem.

What does the new Mazda 3 BM bring?

• Do you need anything else besides it's looks? Mazda 3 BM as a car is just another hatchack from just another manufacturer. But the Mazda 3 BM saloon is a mini Mazda 6 GJ. It's as if Salma Hayek and Sofia Boutella were mud wrestling, and Sofia Vergara dressed as Darth Vader was commenting on the match, and the soundtrack was covered by Twisted Sister while doing a Aerosmith tribute. That's how good the Mazda 3 saloon is.
• After that, there remains the Japanese reliability that we have become accustomed to from father to son. More than that, Mazda have stubbornly embraced the new technology and are the last of the Mohicans that still offer naturally aspirated gasoline engines that have relevant power output. Of course, there are other manufacturers that offer naturally aspirated engines but most come with a maximum of 80 horsepower, but the Mazda 3 BM is the only compact on the market that comes with an arse kicking 165 horsepower 2.0 litre petrol. Yes, it is behind the turbocharged petrols in terms of raw power, but it is far ahead of them in terms of reliability.
  

And then why isn't Europe full of Mazda 3 saloons?

Because the Japanese have almost understood this car in Europe. The biggest no-no is the price. A brand new Mazda 3 BM saloon back in it's day cost more than a Skoda Octavia, VW Golf, Megane IV sedan (in fact, a Megane IV sedan in top ZEN trim level is 300 pounds cheaper than a barebones Mazda 3 BM), Toyota Corolla sedan, Ford Focus IV, Vauxhall Astra K and any other compact that is not Audi A3, BMW Series 1, Mercedes A Class, Honda Civic or Lexus CT. And we are not talking about hundreds of pounds in distance, we're talking thousands. With a price far above the competition in a segment where the price often dictates the purchase, it is easy to see why the Mazda 3 BM is addressed only to those who really want a Mazda. For the average buyer, the Mazda 3 BM makes little financial sense. In other words, nothing new at Mazda's marketing department. Mazda 3 BM - the official car "You want it, you buy it - good; You don't buy it - just as good." The thinking of the Mazda people is fascinating.

Mazda 3 BM Engines

Petrol

• 1.5 SkyActiv-G F-P5 of 100 horsepower – Out with the old and legendary MZR and welcome SkyActiv-G. An engine that has so far carried its torch with dignity and that has proven to be a reliable engine, even if at 100 horsepower it is not very sporty. As with MZR, somewhere late in life it will start drinking oil, but until then it is still there.
• 1.6 MZR ZM-DE of 105 horsepower - However this engine was kept around in Thailand I think? Not as fuel efficient as the SkyActiv-G that replaced it, but it's a decent engine nonetheless.
• 2.0 SkyActiv-G PE-VPS of 120, 150, 155 and 165 horsepower – Rather than buying the 120 horsepower engine, buy the 1.5 one and put the rest of the money into other options. The 165 horsepower version however is wheeled porn and promises to replace the old 2.0 MZR with dignity.
• 2.5 SkyActiv-G PY-VPS of 184 horsepower - As it went with the old Mazda 3, the North Americans and the Australians get the most fun engine, because in those parts of the world there is no replacement for displacement. Normally reserved for the CX-5, the 2.5 SkyActiv-G is one reliable lump, prone to the occasional spark plug and ignition coil, but that's about it. 

Diesel

2.2 SkyActiv-D SH-VPTS of 150 and 173 horsepower – You would have thought that the Japanese learned how to make a decent diesel after 20 years of Europe. And you would be wrong.You would think that it would at least solve the current issues. And you would be wrong. The 2.2 diesel has the same problem of oil contamination with diesel as before (we discussed more in the article about the Mazda 6 GH), but at least here you have safety systems that warn you at the slightest deviation so you can keep the problem at bay and without checking the oil level at every traffic light stop. No, it's not that the oil level decreases, but increases. No, this engine doesn't magically produce oil, it just pulls diesel up its nose.

Mazda 3 BM Reliability Issues

• Besides the fact that it is the second most expensive compact on the market after the Honda Civic, you don't even get a spare wheel. All you get is a repair kit, a poster with Hulk Hogan and a prepaid simcard with which to call the towing company to recover you.
• The keyless go system works with only one key. If you started the car with one key and left and came back with the secondary key, the computer will not start the car until you return with the first key. Even if both keys belong to the car. Why? Because Mazda. Much like a toilet, it's just one person at a time.

Mazda 3 BM Verdict

If it weren't so expensive, I would put it in the top of my favorite cars. But with prices like this, the Mazda 3 BM remains just a curiosity of the automotive world, a curiosity that only those who are truly passionate and determined to buy their Mazda will buy. Otherwise, it still remains a car far from the average buyer's mind, leaving this role to the Mazda 2 and Mazda CX-3, cars that sell like hot cakes. Why don't they want to sell the Mazda 3? Are they afraid of the customers who will buy their cars right off the assembly line?

Which engine do I recommend? If you keep paying so much money, at least do it in style and go for the 165 horsepower Mazda 3 BM 2.0 SkyActiv-G. Or the 2.5 petrol, if it's available in your country, you lucky ba-

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Mazda Demio for Japan aka half of the Earth and Mazda 2 DY for the rest. And today we are talking about Mazda 2 DY, the European one. Or rather, we are talking about the differences between the Mazda 2 DY and the Ford Fusion, which is actually a sister car and which are actually both built on the Ford Fiesta platform. Not to be confused with the american Ford Fusion. And the main difference between the Mazda 2 and the Mazda Demio is that the Mazda 2 fully uses Fiesta and Fusion parts, while the Demio has some Mazda specific parts.

So we have Ford Fiesta, Ford Fusion and Mazda 2. What is the difference between them and what should each one do?

• First of all we have the looks, all 3 look different.
• Secondly, 2 of them are Ford and one is Mazda. At that time, Mazda was not well-known in Europe and was a low-budget brand, right up there with Nissan, Daewoo and Hyundai in terms of pubic perception. So the Mazda 2 was perceived as cheaper but it was also cheaper to buy so it kinda evened out.
• Thirdly, they are different tools for different jobs. The Ford Fiesta was a classic city car, the Ford Fusion was a proto-crossover and the Mazda 2 was a small minivan. Practically, with these 3 cars, Ford pretty much secures the city car market. Mazda 2 DY had to fight with Renault Modus and Opel Meriva and all 3 remained obscure because this kind of automotive genre didn't really catch on. Only Meriva is still moving because it rode on the Zafira's name, but that's about it.

Who is the Mazda 2 for?

Just like we talked about the Modus, Agila and Meriva, the Mazda 2 DY is an excellent car for young families, but it's an even better car for the elderly. You have a higher seating position to get in and out of the car than the Fiesta and you have bigger windows than the Fusion, so you have much better visibility. Plus it's small enough to be nimble around town. It has small and reliable engines. And it has the dashboard mounted gearshifter instead of the classic location for the Fiesta, also for comfort. Mazda 2 DY may have as little in common with Mazda as Bud Light has in common with actual beer, but it sure made some sales and had a small following.

Mazda 2 DY Engines

Petrol

• 1.25 MZI of 70 horsepower - It actually has 68 horsepower and this is the same Sigma engine developed in conjunction with Yamaha that you also find on the Fiesta and it has no specific issues here either. Sometimes it is advertised as a 1.3 petrol, but it is actually 1.25.
• 1.3 ZJ-VE of 91 horsepower - Which is sort of confusing, as there is also a 1.3 petrol available on sale, or rather was. And this is a Mazda recipe. I can't believe I am making comparisons between 1.3 litre petrols, but the Yamaha engine has less poower but more faun than the Mazda unit, whereas the Mazda engine is more sedate and easier to live with. Which is important, when you've gotten already used to arthritis.
• 1.4 MZI of 80 horsepower - Then we make a big leap to the second engine of Mazda origin and it is not an engine that will particularly surprise you. Sure, the water pump has a tendency to get tired before the deadline, but that's about it. No wonder this is the most popular engine on the Mazda 2 DY.
• 1.5 ZY-VE of 111 horsepower - As always, Mazda decided to keep for it's self the glorious 1.5 ZY-VE and this engine is loads on fun on the 3, but on the 2 is abit much. 
• 1.6 MZI of 100 horsepower – This doesn't really have 100 horses either, but 98, but what does it matter. This is essentially the bigger cousin of the 1.4 and it's actually the bigger brother because it's the same engine. So the same Mazda and Japanese reliability in general, as far as petrol engines are concerned atleast.

Diesel

1.4 MZ-CDTi of 68 horsepower -  Yes, the same 1.4 TDCi of 68 horses from the Fiesta. Yes, that engine with a huge appetite for injectors. Plus, it's as useless as the 24 beer per day limit set for Bathurst 1000. Nobody's buying it. Chiefly because the Mazda 2 is a city car and a diesel is a bad ideea in this scenario, and the poor reliability doesn't help it's case very much aswell.

Mazda 2 DY Reliability Issues

• The suspension is borrowed from the Fiesta V, and it doesn't shine particularly here either, and it doesn't even articulate. But at least it's cheap. 
• No meal without soy and no Mazda without rust. I mean, the Mazda 3 couldn't be left alone in the night, eaten by rust underneath.

Mazda 2 DY Verdict

Whether you look at it as a budget Renault Modus or a Fiesta for the elderly, the Mazda 2 DY clearly has its customer base. It has excellent visibility in traffic, it's very comfortable, it's practical, it's easy to drive and it's cheap to buy and run. Sure, Mazda 2 will lead a city life and won't impress anyone, but if you want something cheap and good, then Mazda 2 DY offers serious competition to Suzuki Splash / Opel Agila. The problem is that the kind of person who would buy something like this, I don't think would ever visit this website. 

What engines do I recommend? For petrol power any engine is basically decent, but I will choose the 80 horsepower 1.4 lump for the best all-rounder. And for diesel, I recommend 1.4 CDTi because it's the only one available, but I have doubts about it and you should too.

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Mazda 3 BL came to replace a rather strange car for it's time. It was a pure Japanese car, with the full fun package, such as semi-independent suspension, chain-driven punchy petrol engines, which only worked when revved hard. A fun car, driven by the hoonigans who wanted something more than the boring Golf or the old Astra. They weren't even interested in the Ford Focus, because they read somewhere that 80% of Fords are still on the roads, and the remaining 20% ​​have arrived at home. And Ford corporate caught ear of this and decided to punish said hoonigans.

And how did Ford corporate punish the little Mazda 3?

Simple, Ford executives barged into Mazda and Volvo offices and threw a bunch of money-ladden suitcases at them. Volvo had invested quite a lot in their own R&D and had little money for anything else, and Mazda was always a weak company in the marketing department in Europe and that's why it was not as popular in Europe. And so Ford stol..."borrowed"...all the technology and especially petrol engines from Mazda and let them make do with what was left in the dumpsters behind the factory.

Things however turned to better in 2008 when Mazda becomes independent again by buying back Ford's stock participation, but in the same year the Mazda 3 BL is launched, which was essentially a Ford Focus II with a more aggressive appearance. An idea as good as when you drink beer, eat some watermelons and start doing jumping jacks.

Why did they launch in 2008 a model designed together with Ford when they could have postponed the launch by 1-2 years and modified the model so that it would not be another commercial failure? Because Mazda. It's like asking why do feet smell, if they have no nose? Or if penguins have knees?

Mazda 3 BL Engines

Petrol

• 1.5 MZR ZY-FE of 111 horsepower - Carried over from the previous generation, this engine is Japan exclusive. And if it's in Japan, number one. Steady hand. One day, yakuza boss need new heart. I do operation. But, mistake! Yakuza boss die. Yakuza very mad. I hide in fishing boat, come to America. No English, no food, no money. Darryl give me job. Now I have house, American car, and new woman. Darryl save life. My big secret: I kill yakuza boss on purpose. I good surgeon. The best!
• 1.6 MZR ZM-DE of 105 horsepower – The entry-level engine for most of the Mazda 3 BL is identical to the 1.6 petrol engine on the Ford Focus II. An Mazda sourced engine, about which I have been talking nonsense in the other reviews. With a chain drive and high power range, the only problem with this engine is the appetite for oil that it develops late in life. All in all, an absolutely decent engine, but that's it. You won't be doing much Initial D'ing with this engine.
• 2.0 MZR L of 140 and 150 and 160 horsepower – Carried over from the previous generation, this engine remains the most balanced choice for Mazda. Any Mazda. I'm not sure it would fit under the hood of a Mazda 2, but it's still the best choice. It is part of the same MZR family, so you have the famous Japanese reliability. The 160 horsepower version was North America exclusive and it was the earliest adoption of the SkyActive-G engine, reknown for it's highest efficiency out of a petrol engine.
• 2.3 Turbo MZR-L DiSi of 255, 260 and 270 horsepower – The classic 2.3 Turbo that powered the Ford Focus ST and the 2015 Ford Mustang, this torpedo lives only next to the "Mazda 3 MPS" logo. Or MazdaSpeed 3, if you're from 'stralia. It's a reliable engine, but it's not cheap to maintain. Cheap does not last, free does not exist. Because this engine is prone to turbocharger failures and the timing chain stretches more often than with the regular engines. 
• 2.5 MZR L5-VE of 165 and 170 horsepower - Sitting right between the commoner 2.0 naturally aspirated turbo and the 2.3 Turbocharged MazdaSpeed 3, the 2.5 petrol was available mostly in North America and Australia as the Mazda 3 GT. If you're not commited to the turbocharged maintainance, this is the engine for you.

Diesel

• 1.6 HDI MZ-CD of 116 horsepower – The same 1.6 HDi that destroyed the reputation of any car that had the misfortune of hosting it. Peugeot 307, Ford Focus II, Volvo V50 or Mini Cooper, all were cursed by this mechanical abortion. Besides the classic issues such as the injectors made of gum and toilet paper, or the EGR valve that remains stuck on open position, this engine has an interesting problem with the turbo. In front of the turbo there is a sieve that filters the oil that cools it. The sieve gets clogged, the turbo no longer receives the oil in charge of cooling and that's how the turbo cracks. And if you don't replace the filter (many people don't want to change the filter) and only replace the turbine, you will replace turbos every 6,000 miles / 10,000 kms. It's interesting that they didn't use the old 1.6 MZR-CD. The idea is that when you come with a new car, you also come with better engines, not worse. But I also stated in the article about the Mazda 6 GH that the Japanese do things a little differently than us Europeans.
• 2.2 MZR-CD of 150 and 185 horsepower – Why not offer a 2.0 diesel and come directly with a 2.2 after the 1.6? Because Mazda. Is it atleast a reliable engine? No. The famous MZR-CD, which also kicked Mazda owners in their nads, has the following issue: The particulate filter does not regenerate completely and remains unburnt diesel. The diesel ends up combining with the oil and contaminates your entire engine. The only way you can realize this problem is if you check the oil level daily and see if the oil level has somehow raised. No, the Mazda 3 BL doesn't magically produce engine oil, it just has contaminated oil. Mazda 3 BL, a car that took so many stitches in its testicles that it can identify itself as Steve-O.

Mazda 3 BL Reliability Issues

If you go on the internet and read anything other than the theories of Alex Johnes, a complete and correctly defined esoteric fighter from an esoteric point of view through the ranks and distinctions awarded, you will read horror stories about the rust on Mazda 3, especially Mazda 3 BK and Mazda 3 BL. True thing in countries with a humid climate, such as England. There yes, the Mazda 3 rusts before being assembled. But in civilized Europe you don't have to worry about this kind of thing. Mind you however that the Mazda 3 BL is prone to rust, so if you live in a humid place or someplace with lots of snow, then make sure to rustproof your Mazda.

Mazda 3 BL Verdict

An extraordinary car, which could have been. Except that the problem with the Mazda 3 BL is as follows: You have a 2.0 petrol which is too big and too thirsty for the average driver, you have a 1.6 petrol which is too slow for the typical Mazda driver and you have a 1.6 diesel which is just as as good as geting a lap dance from Preston Lacy. Maybe the rest of the car is reliable and fun, but the only engine you can realistically buy in Europe is the 105 horsepower 1.6 petrol engine, and thus the Mazda 3 BL becomes just another compact of the dozen, somewhere in a dealership's brochure. However, if you stick with a 2.0 petrol, you will make the Mazda 3 BL an old-fashioned pure-blooded Japanese. Trust me, it's worth it. Even better, if you live in a country where fun is not punished, then you got the 2.0, the 2.3 and the 2.5 to get your kicks and the Mazda 3 BL is worth every single penny it demands from time to time.

What engine do I recommend? Obviously I will talk about that 150 horsepower 2.0 MZR and obviously you will buy the 105 horsepower 1.6 MZR petrol. The diesel options are just...no.

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The Mazda 3 BK came in 2003 to retire the old 323 and was one of the first cars built under Ford's bootcamp. It's just that unlike the original Octavia, which was a cheaper and lower-quality Golf IV, but mechanically identical, the Mazda 3 BK differs from the Ford Focus and the Volvo S40 in a few ways.

• First of all, all the engines are Mazda's own recipe. If the Focus and the Volvo S40 have Ford, Mazda and Peugeot engines (with Volvo keeping only the engine and coming with its own auxiliaries), Mazda kept it's own engines. Which means that we have their petrol engines, with legendary reliability and decent sportiness, as well as with a diesel as good as a spoiled beer, left to rot in the sun. You can drink it, but at what price?
• And since we were talking about engines, Mazda also came with its own 270-horsepower, turbocharged 2.3 powerplant under the hood of the Mazda 3 MPS. A very interesting move considering that in 2002 the term hot hatchback was 8 years away from popularity. Moreover, the Ford Focus ST used the Volvo-sourced, 225 horsepower 2.5 turbocharged petrol, and this Mazda engine would eventually become the base for the 2.3 EcoBoost that was also installed on the 2015 Mustang.
• Otherwise, we have the same sporty recipe taken from the Ford Focus and used on the Mazda 3 BK. Independent front suspension, disc brakes for both the front and rear, ABS and other complicated words and acronyms that I don't understand but I use because they make me look good. I also like to photosynthesis.

And how did the Mazda 3 BK do?

Whilst a Focus was already all the car you ever needed, the Mazda remained a car that catered to either enthusiasts who jumped at the 2 litre petrol engine or people who couldn't afford more and went for the not-so-tarmac-tearing 1.4 petrol unit. A smaller, lighter and sportier Focus, in a world of compacts that in 2005 were only practical city cars, not sports cars. Sports is what you wanted from a reasonably priced car? You had the Toyota Celica, Hyundai Coupe, Honda Civic, Mazda MX-5 and BMW E36. So the Mazda 3 BK was a car ahead of its time. This means that today if you want a sports car, reliable and cheap, the Mazda 3 is for you.

Mazda 3 BK Engines

Petrol

• 1.4 MZR Z of 84 horsepower - Yes, it's marginally more powerful than the Golf V with a similarly powerful 1.4 naturally aspirated petrol, but it's like saying you run faster than the guy with 2 crutches, mostly because you have only one crutch. At least it's reliable. Very reliable. Unbelievably reliable. 
• 1.5 MZR ZY-VE of 118 horsepower - Refurbished from the previous Mazda Familia, this engine was Japan exclusive and it was the only small petrol engine they had. Not great, not terrible. 
• 1.6 MZ ZM-DE of 105 and 110 horsepower – It's not quite the fun of the 2.0, but at least it's part of the same MZR family. A decent engine that needs many and constant revolutions to provide performance. If you have a civilized driving style, it will seem like a gutless engine. If you have the right driving style, you will find it a fantastic engine for what it costs to run.
• 2.0 MZR L and MZR LF-VD of 150 horsepower – This is where all the fun is. Comically, you find more Mazda 3s with this engine than Mazda 6 GGs. The most powerful aspirated gasoline engine from Mazda also comes on the little 3 and is ready to punch your testicles (or ovaries) every time you leave the traffic lights. 2.0 MZR – the official Fast and Furious engine. Probably.
• 2.3 MZR L of 160 and 170 horsepower - Yes, sure, they had this engine in naturally aspirated guise, butt why? The 2 litre lump is about as powerful, but it's easier on taxes. This engine says about you that you are too rich for the 2.0 but not rich enough for the full beef wellington.
• 2.3 Turbo MZR L of 260 horsepower - The fabulous Mazda 3 BK MPS is a real automotive beef wellington. But good luck finding one. By the way, this engine was the basis of the engine on the 2015 Mustang. And the clutch tends to fail under the enormous power, and the timing chains will cost an arm and a leg to replace, but hey, you got 260 mighty horsepower under the bonnet of one of the first modern hot hatchbacks. 

Diesel

• 1.6 MZ-CD of 109 horsepower – The smallest and most popular engine on the Mazda 3, even if the whole idea of ​​the car was to be a compact sports car with a compact petrol engine. But we europeasants only knows diesel, so he will have to be tolerated in this review, even if it is an engine of the same age as Boney M.
• 2.0 MZR-CD of 143 horsepower – The standard diesel from Mazda that took care to ruin their reputation. They didn't even need that 1.6 HDi from Peugeot to ruin their reputation, they ruined it themselves. We talk about issues in the common area about MZR-CD.
• 2.2 MZR-CD of 185 horsepower – In addition to the standard problems, you get problems with the turbocharger failures but also with the undersized clutch for this engine as well as a higher tax bracket than the 2 liter diesel. All this under the conditions that the car towing rate is standard.

Mazda 3 BK Reliability Issues

• The petrol engines have reliability, they have fairly resistant timing chains, they deliver decent performance, they have everything you want. However, somewhere late in life they start to run in front of the bus and to get tired and start chugging on oil, so be careful what you buy.
• Not much of a problem as much as a rumor - the Mazda 3 BK rusts more than Mr. Lahey if he were forced to drink water. Indeed, Mazda had this problem with rust, but only in countries with a humid climate, such as England. Standard European models do not have this problem, but it's well advised to check for undercarriage rust, especially if you live in a moist area. My moist area. Because I'm old and I only get moist nowadays. 
• Like many cars from this period, the Mazda 3 also received a faulty ABS system, more specifically the G201 sensor. From the VW Touran to the BMW 1 Series, everyone joins the repair shop queue.
• And now on to the diesel engines... I left these at the end because there is a lot to talk about. As with the 2.0 TDI on the Passat B6, there are two types of engine that you have to look at. The ones without particle filter are ok, but they are Euro 3 and maybe for one of the two readers of Autodrivel, the emission standard matters. For those with a particle filter, the issue is something like this: The particle filter fails to regenerate completely and remains with unburned diesel. That unburnt diesel ends up walking through the system and at some point it contaminates the engine oil. How do you figure this out? The oil level starts to rise above the maximum level. No, it's not a miracle engine that produces oil like the VW ALH produces diesel, it's just full of contaminated oil. What happens if you don't bother to constantly check the oil level? There will come a time when the band N SYNC will come out of the boot and sing "Bye bye bye", it will take your engine and go with it to the old "iron".

Mazda 3 BK Verdict

A car that is definatelly not for anyone. Especially in 2024. It's a car aimed at thrill-seekers who have a tighter budget than the Libresse. Forget the diesel engines, forget the 1.4 petrol and go for the 1.6 or the 2.0 powerplants. It's a shame to have an independent, aerodynamic suspension and a car generally built for sports and put a non-sport engine. It's like having a Monster Energy can, but with Fosters beer inside. It's like going out on the town with a good girl who is also intelligent, but who laughs like a chainsaw. It's like going camping at Saint Moritz.

Which engines do I recommend? The 105 horsepower 1.6 petrol if you're short on dough, and the 150 horsepower 2.0 petrol 150 hp if you're not.

Built on the Mazda 2 platform, the Mazda CX 3 was an instant success. Perhaps one reason was that people thought that the Mazda CX 3 was a slightly taller, slightly more aggresive looking Mazda 3. And nothing wrong with that really, as the T-Roc is a slightly taller, slightly more aggresive looking Polo, the Captur is a slightly taller, slightly more aggresive looking Clio and Drumcode Radio is an slightly taller, slightly more aggresive sounding Last.fm. So naturally you'd think that the Mazda CX 3 is a was a slightly taller, slightly more aggresive looking Mazda 3 Mazda 3. But it's not, because we're in the Mazda world and things here don't necessarily have to be logic.

So the first less than logical thing is that the space inside is comparable to the Mazda 2, not Mazda 3. The second thing is that... actually you don't really have the second thing, because this is where the good things start.

First of all, the Mazda CX 3 looks good and is a compact cross-over, so that even the physically weakest girl can drive something like this. And if the compact cross-over is covered with protective plastic on all the car's edges, now that girl can drive with confidence and she can park without closing her eyes that she will hit the curb. And even if she will, she'll just scratch the plastics.

What is most interesting instead is that the Mazda CX 3 came optionally with an all-wheel drive system, being the only car in its class that offered such a thing untill the Yaris Cross arrived. Why would you go for a 4×4 system on a Mazda 2? I don't know. Anyway, it's a system that only helps you in the snow, and if you're browsing the ads for cross-over Mazda 2, it means that you live somewhere in the city, where realistically you only have 4-5 days of snow around the city and where you do actually need the 4x4, you'll never go in that sort of places. But it's good to know that you had this option.

Mazda CX 3 Engines

Petrol

• 1.5 SkyActiv-G of 114 horsepower - Honestly, you don't even need more for the Mazda CX 3. The idea is that if you want to keep the price at a civilized level and in line with the car segment, the 1.5 petrol engine, manual gearbox and front wheel drive should be all you configure. Plus I don't think you need that 4×4 system.
• 2.0 SkyActiv-G of 120 horsepower - Of course, everyone talks about this engine, as if it were a fusion of Sofia Boutella and Nicole Moudaber. Indeed, it's a good, reliable, economical engine, but when you put it on the Mazda CX 3, it ends up costing so much that you'd rather look at a CX 5 instead. 

Diesel

1.5 SkyActiv-D of 105 horsepower – Nope. Besides the fact that it has the same fautly injectors and the particulate filter clogs just as daily as the older 2.2 brother, the engine is rarer than the moments when fuel prices drop.

Mazda CX 3 Reliability Issues

• Since it's basically a Mazda 2 with a wig, it share the same air conditioning issues, and especially the compressors keep on failing. You could say it's a cool car, but only in terms of appearance, because inside you'll sit like in a crowded bus. Or like in a club, barricaded by girls.
• I continue with the idea that the Mazda CX 3 is more cramped inside than it seems, and I'm going to take the boot as an example, which is a bigger joke than my sex life. Or a smaller joke? I'm lost here. Anyway, you can only fit a Lone CD in the boot so take this into consideration.
• The paint is exfoliated with one fourth moisturizing cream, just like the rest of the cars in the Mazda range, from the Mazda 2 to the CX 5. Which means that it will also peel off as easily as a slight breeze, especially if it's the Mazda specific cherry color paint.

Mazda CX 3 Verdict

The Mazda CX 3 was clearly a success, a success far beyond the Mazda 2 on which it is based. The question is the following. All the SUV hysteria started in the 90s with the Mercedes ML, in Europe atleast because in the US it started with the Cherokee XJ all the way back in 1984. Then in 2005 we decided that we could go one step smaller, and so we flocked to the BMW X3, Audi Q5, Toyota Rav4 and so on. Then we thought that a Q5 was too big, and we switched to the Tiguan, which was a slightly taller Golf. And the Mazda CX 3 took another small step and now people are interested in buying even something like that, just like the Captur caught on with the public. What's next, Toyota Aygo Cross? oh wait… In any case, the petrol Mazda CX 3 is an excellent car, even if it is slightly expensive for what it offers.

Which engines do I recommend? 1.5 SkyActiv-G petrol, front wheel drive and manual gearbox. And nothing else mattress.

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The Mazda CX-5 KF reminds me a lot of the Audi A4 B6 and specifically the RS4. And before you kill me with stones like they did with Judas, what I'm saying is that the Audi RS4 was also a perfect recipe right off the bat and then comes the question "ok, the car is already 8 years old, we should release a new model... what do we do now?". Case that applies very well to the Mazda CX-5 and applies even better today because the only brown spot in it's resume is the diesel engine. But with 2020 hindsight, the diesel engine starts to lose enthusiasm and from the market, and all this because in 2020 we did not vote for the right person. 

What does the second generation of Mazda CX-5 bring, if they were still afraid to dilute the recipe?

• The engines are approximately the same, not to say exactly the same. Well, we have two big news, namely that in 2018 the turbo version of the 2.5 petrol engine appears, because in the meantime the Mazda CX-9 debuts in 2016 and that car does not cope with the anemic 2.5 naturally aspirated petrol and it needed turbocharging in order to move about, and after two years of tests, the Slovaks from Mazda decided to offer the turbo engine on the CX-5 as well.
• I said that I take it chronologically, but that was only for me to sound intelligent as I'm not very good at numbers, so I'm going to say that in 2016, the cylinder deactivation technology appears, at low city speeds. Technically it helps you with fuel economy, but practically it doesn't help you with anything noticeable. They help the Canadians from Mazda in exchange for emissions, to meet their standards for emissions.
• And since we were talking about petrol power, in 2022 the Mild Hybrid versions also show themselves, because they still have to meet the pollution standards. As for power, you don't get anything extra and no one cares about hybrid engines on the CX-5, except for the EU, the government and environmental activists. Activists. Mista? Should I call you mista?

Mazda CX-5 II engines

Petrol

• 2.0 SkyActive-G PE-VPS of 165 horsepower – Yes, sure, it's as weak as if it hasn't had a beer in a few days, but if you don't want to give yourself trouble with the particulate filters and turbo failures and EGRs cloggings and high running costs in general, and you don't even feel charitable at the council tax counter, then the 2.0 SkyActive-G engine is all the engine you need.
• 2.5 SkyActive-G PY-VPS of 184 and 197 horsepower – This engine is the most suitable for the second generation CX-5 and personally I would feel charitable at the council tax counter if it means upgrading to this engine, because if you can afford a Mazda CX-5 KF, a few hundred quid a year in council tax shouldn't matter all that much. But if a couple hundred pounds extra per year matter to you, then you probably shouldn't look at a Mazda CX-5 in the first place.
• 2.5 Turbo SkyActive-G PY-VPST of 228 horsepower – Thank you North America, where the CX-5 is a compact SUV and they needed serious cars like the CX-9, where the aspirated 2.5 was not enough so they strapped a turbo to the 2.5. I'm not necessarily convinced by this engine because yes, it's reliable, but it has shorter service intervals (5-7000 km for oil and filters) and you have to be careful what petrol you feed it and it has generally higher running costs. And I don't think those 30 extra horsepower are really worth the trouble.

Diesel

2.2 SkyActive-D SH-VPTS of 150, 175 and 184 horsepower – The second generation of CX-5 comes with an improved 2.2 diesel, but you are still in the zoster zone for pistons, oil pump, oil leaks and others. Why complicate your life, when a petrol engine aproximatelly does the same thing? Sure, it's less economical, but your mechanic won't be answering your weekly call via a Vertu.

Mazda CX-5 KF Reliability Issues

• Starting off with the windshield, which is thinner than the string of patience when you are at the DMV AND YOU ARE MISSING A FILE AND THE FILES ARE NOT IN THE ORDER THEY WANT AND ONLINE STATEMENTS ARE SUBMITTED AT COUNTER 4 BUT THE ONLINE COUNTER HAS SCHEDULE UNTIL 2 AFTERNOON WITH LUNCH BREAK BETWEEN 11 AND 1.
• The paint, especially the red one, still peels off at the slightest breeze. Nothing new compared to the previous generation.
• The central armrest is really central in the sense that it is in the center of the car and is not necessarily useful. And I will also mention here the very simplistic and airy interior that wants to be with many buttons but also very simplistic at the same time and I can't decide please help.

Mazda CX-5 KF Verdict

It's obvious that the Portuguese working at Mazda were very careful with one of the best-selling cars in their line-up. They altered it by the bare minimum to pass the class, namely the minimum of technology and the minimum of emissions. And so the Mazda CX-5 KF remains one of the best on-road cross-overs at the present time, provided that you stay in the perimeter of the petrol engines. Is it worth buying or not? Absolutely, but if you don't necessarily care about pollution standards, the first-generation CX-5 does exactly the same job, only cheaper.

Which engines do I recommend? If you are not in a hurry and 200 quid a year is important to you, then buy a VW Fox. I mean a CX-5 2.0 petrol. But the best engine remains the 2.5, which is essentially the 2.0, only bigger.

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Not really worth it, VW T-Cross C11 at least. Sure, it made some waves when it was launched, but currently the biggest enemy of the VW T-Cross is the Seat Arona itself, his brother from another mother. Seriously, at the time I dropped this literary calamity, the VW T-Cross C11 is 2000 quid more expensive new than the Arona and 3-4000 more on the used market. Practically, the Arona undercuts the T-Cross just as the Octavia undercut the Golf in 2005-2010, and if I drink a Mich Golden's and sit and think, the VW T-Cross C11 is 10 cm shorter than the T-Roc which it's much more expensive, so if you just want practicality and you're not too interested in the brand and the quality of the interiors, I'd buy a T-Cross instead of a T-Roc. Or worse, an Arona or a Duster. But this scenario will not happen, because when you buy your VW, you want the world around you to know who is the richest man in the neighbourhood.

Sure, interior is better screwed together and has slightly better quality materials, and you have more engine options, and the main difference is that the Arona and Kamiq are local stunts, while the T-Cross had to travel the whole world and that's probably why it's even more expensive for what wanted to be more of universal car. A "One VW", if you may. That's why it didn't necessarily catch well in our Europe, because it's very crowded in this segment, but in countries like Australia, the VW T-Cross C11 doesn't really have competition because there aren't many cars like it there. And with this, I think I have solved the mystery of T-Cross.

VW T-Cross C11 Engines

Petrol

• 1.0 TSI EA211 of 95 and 115 horsepower – The base engine and the only one left available for sale, in case you are interested in a new T-Cross. And for the money it's asking for, it's a decent engine that does it's job, provided you give it additional oil from time to time, just like you have to give me pictures of Deauxma to be able to function properly. That explains a lot about this online septic tank.
• 1.4 TSI EA211 of 150 horsepower – Available at launch and far too much for the T-Cross, so they quickly withdrew it from the programme grill. Normally I would say it's a shame, but for T-Cross do you really need 150 horsepower? But at least it's reliable and you can buy this Last of the Mohicans without worry.
• 1.5 TSI EA211 of 150 horsepower - They quickly withdrew this from the programme grill due to the reliability issues that I kept discussing and which I am tired of. Plus I got tired of writing about the same car 28 times. I'm tired boss. 

Diesel

1.6 TDI EA288 of 95 horsepower – I'm not going to copy paste the Arona section but I will slightly edit it, as the engine was good for the T-Cross for the sort of young people who want a small, cheap and reliable car to drive almost every weekend on a holiday, even if it's a 20 mile drive from the urban jungle. But if you buy it just to drive around town because you heard it's good and economical, then you'll get a bit more than a hangover headache. DPF clogs, injectors failing, dual mass flywheel premature wear. That sort of stuff. The 1.0 TSI is much more versatile a engine. 

VW T-Cross C11 Reliability Issues

• The price. Because in this range of cars, money talks but sadly I can't hear them, and VW has always been more expensive than the competition because it comes with better quality interiors, but in this car segment people don't care so much if the plastic is screwed on a bit more good. If an Arona does 90% of what a T-Cross does but costs 2-3000 pounds less, 99% of buyers will choose Arona and those 1% will not recommend the toothpaste. Or something like that. 
• It's a VW so the complementary moment about the DSG automatic gearbox remains a common issue throughout the VW group, so I recommend you to get a manual T-Cross because that way you keep both the purchase price and the running costs in line with what this sort of car should cost, and that's pretty much the idea of ​​the T-Cross, a cheap compact cross-over.
• Electrical gremlins on the infotainment side, but you can say that about all modern cars and especially about VW. 

VW T-Cross C11 Verdict

This Up! on slightly taller sneakers was not a great success in Europe but lived decently on the back of the image. It was and is a car you can afford new, even when you are 25-30 years old and many thought that if the difference between Arona and T-Cross is just 1500-2000 pounds new and you're going to lease for 60 months, then a T-Cross is worth it because it's a VW. And here we are at an impasse, because the kind of person who wants a VW and is willing to pay more for those tighter screws, will not look at the T-Cross because they are too old for that. And the target audience for this slightly taller Up! is not bothered by the creaking board or the exposed screws, visible from the inside.

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol power, the 95 horsepower 1.0 TSI because I don't think anyone bought the 150 horsepower 1.4 TSI, and for diesel you only have the choice of the 95 horsepower 1.6 TDI. Both should be manual, because that suits T-Cross just as it suits me with a Mich Golden's, but no one donates one to me.

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The VW Taigo CS1 is probably the best VW that you haven't heard of and that the market certainly hasn't heard of either because it was a slow seller. This is because VW did not take seriously the words of the market and they just built a compact cross-over just because pretty much everyone had a compact cross-over so they had to have someone present at the stall.

So just like Suzuki and Mitsubishi, VW occasionally launches good cars but forgets to advertise them, but for different reasons, because VW actually thought they were so good that people will buy from them no matter what, only that the recent years have shown us that VW is not exactly the Apple of the automotive world.

So what's the deal with the Taigo?

• The Taigo is built on the same platform as the Polo and sits halfway between the T Cross and the T roc, both in terms of size and price. Yes, the Polo derived interior does not convince me that this car is from 2020, but the exterior is closer to 2020 and it is one of the better-looking VWs of our time.
• It is however larger than a T Cross and just a bottle of Mich Golden's worth smaller than T Roc and the price is also sitting in the middle of the center. Except that in T Cross the boot is really there so you can't say that the car doesn't have a boot, and in the case of Taigo you can put more than one Vanilla Ice CD.
• And now back to the price, because a Taigo starts at 20,000 GBP for a manual and 23,000 GBP for an automagic DSG, which is not bad for the industry average and is surprisingly cheap for VW. Unfortunately, I cannot say much about the used market at the moment because the sales are weaker than any 30 years old, the morning after a proper drink out.

VW Taigo CS1 Engines

Petrol

• 1.0 TSI EA211 of 95, 110, 120 and 130 horsepower - Probably all the engine you need because otherwise it becomes too expensive for what the Taigo should stand for. A modern engine that only suffers from oil incontinence and realistically, the 110 horsepower versions and up are enough for the Taigo.
• 1.5 TSI EA211 of 150 horsepower - Not. At the time I wrote this article, a new Taigo with this engine started at 27,000 GBP and the cheapest used Taigo 1.5 TSI on mobile.de costs 23,500 euros. Plus it suffers from the same oil and DSG problems that this engine is used to.

VW Taigo CS1 Reliability Issues

• The infotainment is taken directly from the Polo and will make you climb up the wall, but atleast you got something.
• It's a Polo X6, but more akin to a Polo than to an X6, so you won't have much in the way of standard equipment or options such as diesel or hybrid engines, and the 4×4 is out of the question. But if you don't care about these things, and you shouldn't care when you're looking for a Taigo, you're good.

VW Taigo CS1 Verdict

It didn't necessarily sell well and I don't understand why. It's a VW, it looks good and it's affordable. Yes, the interior is as outdated as the septic tank from which I am writing this review. Yes, it has a 1.0 petrol engine, but that's what almost the entire car market in this segment offers anyway. So it's definitely worth taking a look at the Taigo, especially if you're currently looking at the Captur or the Kona, and you're the sort of person who wants something simple and cheap, but which also has a slight degree of snobbery. Otherwise, I sincerely recommend to go for the Arona or the Duster.

Which engines do I recommend? You don't have hybrids, you don't have diesels, and the 1.5 TSI is rare and expensive. So the 1.0 TSI is all the engine you need, regardless of the power output.

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I say this because the original Sportage was a compact agricultural piece of kit. Big, cheap to buy and maintain, excellent on rough terrain, but which was as equipped as a dorm room. Or Gal Gadot.

Then the Nissan Qashqai arrived in 2007 and showed the world that people want to buy a car that looks like an SUV, but they don't want to take on the running costs of an SUV. So Hyundai and Kia understood this and launched the ix35 and Kia Sportage SL, both being identical mechanically and on the inside, with the only real difference being in the looks department.

And this is why "cars" such as the Qashqai and the Sportage, and many more, represent everything wrong with cars these days. Sorta bigger cars, that look aggressive and that give you the illusion that they are capable off-road, but if you take their pants off you find out that they are just hatchbacks on stilts. Small engines, manual gearbox and front wheel drive. Imagine a bodybuilder who has taken so many steroids that his heart is enlarged. Much like the Kia Sportage, it's all show and not alot of go.

But at least I have that 7-year warranty, right?

Yes and no. Kia offered a 7-year warranty, but in order to benefit from it, all servicing must be done at the dealership, and the wear and tear are not covered by the warranty. What is included in the wear and tear category? In civilized countries, wear and tear items are brake pads, brake discs, flywheel, clutch, tires, battery, etc. In Blighty on the other hand, the wear and tear also includes the engine and the body. In other words, even if you find someone who was dedicated enough to service the car at the dealership for 7 years straight, when you go to a dealership for a warranty claim, especially if it's nearing the end of the 7 year period, you will receive exactly what I received when I asked for a salary raise last time.

Kia Sportage QL Engines

Petrol

• 1.6 G4FG and G4FD of 132 horsepower – The most popular engine on the Kia Sportage QL, this petrol engine is simple, efficient, reliable and devoid of emotion. Unfortunately, it is also at the base of the list of options, so it also lacks all-wheel drive, automatic transmission or many other toys. The only engine more aspirational than this is the 1.7 diesel, but at least the petrol engine has no notable problems. Only the later GDi engine which is direct injection so it's prone to oil consumption and carbon build-up. 
• 1.6 Turbo T-GDI G4FJ of 177 horsepower - Showing up rather late to the party, the turbocharged 1.6 T-GDi certainly kept up the pace, if you could keep up with the repair bills for the turbo. 
• 2.0 G4NC and G4ND of 163 and 166 horsepower – Loud as a diesel, this petrol needs spark plugs, coilpacks and timing kits changed regularly. Whether you like it or not, it's the only reliable petrol engine on the Kia Sportage QL with all-wheel drive.
• 2.4 G4KE of 177 horsepower - Ah yes, the fabled Theta II engine which was a massive headache in North America, or for any Alabama sourced engines really. If it's not Alabama sourced, then it's ok. If it is as american as the soda vs pop debate, then avoid it. 

Diesel

• 1.6 CRDi Smartstream D4FE of 136 horsepower - Another late entry, which came about in 2018 to retire the old 1.7 diesel and it did alright. Nothing special to mention apart from regular modern diesel stuff, but as long as you don't use it for the daily city crawl, you're going to be all right.
• 1.7 CRDi D4FD of 117 horsepower – The most aspirational engine of all. It doesn't have power, but at least it's economical, because that's what matters for you in a Kia Sportage QL. It should look like an SUV, but have the running costs of a Corsa. You really want an SUV, but you can't afford it, so you get something that only looks like an SUV. If you insist on buying this engine, you get issues with the particle filter that fails in regenerations and sends diesel into oil. Ah yes, with this engine, if the "Cruise Control" breaks down, the car won't start. So definitely check this part.
• 2.0 CRDi D4HA of 136 and 184 horsepower – A traditional diesel that comes with traditional issues with the DPF and the costly double-mass flywheel. But at least it's a decent engine for those who really want a capable SUV. Quite pricy on parts tho.

Kia Sportage QL Reliability Issues

• The rims peel off more than the make-up of a typical Liverpool nightclub attendant, every Thursday, Friday and Saturday. In particular the 18" rims are affected.
• The manual gearbox holds onto gears more than a guy who does MLM holds on to you until you sign up for his brand new, multi-billion project, who wasn't spoken to you in years but who now thought of calling you. Most of the gearboxes are sort of fine, but the 1.7 diesel manual is notoriously bad and it actually bites. As for the automatic gearboxes, just stick with the regular oil change intervals, which must be done every 37,000 miles / 60,000 km, and you'll be ok. It is still "too soon" for the 7DCT to arrive and cause mayhem.
• The panoramic roof was a popular choice, like on the Peugeot 307. The problem with the panoramic roof is that it either cracks or gets stuck and that means your budget will receive a contusion and a kick to the nads.
• Most models on the market have front-wheel drive and manual transmission. Not that it would be a problem, but with a configuration like this, what is the difference between Kia Sportage and Alfa Romeo 147?
• The door seals are made of chewing gum that has already been chewed and glued to the door. The effects are not serious, except that the doors will no longer close completely and it is possible to experience rain in the car. Basically, the only difference between the inside of the car and the outside is that the wind will not blow in the car.

Kia Sportage QL Verdict

It looks good and that's why people bought it more than tickets for Jake Paul vs Mike Tyson match, Trump rallies and Tom Jones concerts combined. However buying an SUV with front-wheel drive, manual transmission and an engine from the compact class, says about you that you want to look successful at any cost, even if you are not yet successful. I have no beef with this configuration on the compact cross-over class such as Captur, SX4 or ASX. But if you get a Kia Sportage with the 117 horsepower 1.7 diesel, front-wheel drive and manual transmission, then you deserve everything that happens to you.

Which engines do I recommend? If you don't care about all-wheel drive, then the 1.6 naturally aspirated, 132 horsepower petrol engine. If you care about all-wheel drive and want the full experience, then the 136 horsepower 2.0 CRDi diesel is by far the most balanced engine for the Sportage.

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I say this because the original of Sportage was a compact, agricultural SUV. Big, cheap to buy and maintain, excellent on rough terrain, but which was as equipped as a dorm room. 

Then came about the Nissan Qashqai in 2007 and showed the world that people want to buy a car that looks like an SUV, but they don't want to take on the running costs of an SUV. So Hyundai and Kia understood this and launched the ix35 and Kia Sportage SL, both being identical mechanically and on the inside, but with different coats.

And this is how these cross-overs represents for the automotive world what Jersey Shore represents for the TV world: Everything that is wrong. Big cars, that look aggressive and that give you the illusion that they are capable of off-road, but if you pull down their pants you find out that they are just taller hatchbacks. Small engines, manual gearbox and front wheel drive. Imagine a bodybuilder who has taken so many steroids that his heart is enlarged. Imagine that if Kia Sportage SL was a bodybuilder, he would be the type who brags about his muscles all day long and who constantly does lives on tiktok, even if he is aware of the fact that those muscles are only for show.

But at least I have that 7-year warranty, correct?

Yes and no. Kia offered a 7-year warranty, but in order to benefit from it, all servicing must be done at the dealership, and the wear and tear parts are not covered by the warranty. What is included in the wear and tear category? In civilized countries, consumables are brake pads, brake discs, flywheel, clutch, tires, battery etc. In other words, even if you find someone who was dedicated enough to service the car only at the dealership, with dealership prices, for 7 years straight, the chances are that the asking price will be as big as buying new. But good luck finding such person in the first place.

Kia Sportage SL Engines

Petrol

• 1.6 G4FD of 132 horsepower – The most popular petrol engine on the Kia Sportage SL, this petrol engine is simple, efficient, reliable and emotionless. Unfortunately, it is also at the base of the list of options, so it also lacks all-wheel drive, automatic transmission or many other toys. The only engine more aspirational than this is the 1.7 diesel, but at least the petrol engine has no notable problems. It is a direct injection engine so it's not 100% LPG compatible, and it's prone to oil burning but that can be said about any direct injection petrol engine really. 
• 2.0 G4KD and G4NC of 163 and 166 horsepower – Loud as a diesel, this petrol needs spark plugs and coilpacks changed regularly. Whether you like it or not, it's the only european petrol engine on the Kia Sportage SL with all-wheel drive. Also, it's VVT so it needs the VVT timing to be replaced once every 100,000 miles but most people neglect it and so it starts to rattle like a diesel, until it finally gives up on life. Much like how I did, 2 weeks into my new job. 
• 2.4 G4KE of 176 horsepower - Available outside of Europe, this engine is fine to buy as long as it's not built in the Alabama plant. Yes, it's that infamous Theta II engine. If it's not assembled in Alabama, it's a decent engine to buy. If it's Alabama sourced, avoid it like I avoid water. Or work. 

Diesel

• 1.7 CRDi D4FD of 117 horsepower – The most aspirational engine of all. It doesn't have any sort of power, but at least it's economical, because that's what matters to you in a Kia Sportage SL. It should look like an SUV, but have the running costs of Corsa. You want an SUV, but you can't afford an SUV, so you get something that only looks like an SUV. If you insist on buying this engine however, you get issues with the particle filter that fails in regenerations and contaminates the oil with diesel. Yes, with this engine if the "Cruise Control" breaks down, the car won't start. So definitely check this part. Also, this engine is notorious for the manual gearbox's low biting point so test drive before buying. I meant to say "atleast test drive before buying", but you can't have it all. 
• 2.0 CRDi D4HA of 136 and 184 horsepower – A traditional diesel that comes with traditional diesel issues with the clutch and double-mass flywheel. But at least it's a decent engine for those who really want a capable SUV, with it's only real issue is that some parts can be quite expensive, much more expensive than the industry average for this sort of engine.

Kia Sportage SL Reliability Issues

• The rims scratch and peel off more than the make-up of a typical partygoer on every Thursday, Friday and Saturday. In particular, the 18" rims are targeted.
• I mentioned it already but I will say it again, the manual gearbox bites more than Scruff McGruff. As for the automatic gearbox, just be careful with the oil change, which must be done every 37,000 miles / 60,000 km and you'll be ok.
• The panoramic roof was a popular choice, like on the Peugeot 307. The problem with the panoramic roof is that it either cracks or gets stuck and that means your budget will receive a concussion and a kick to the nads.
• Most models on the market have front-wheel drive and manual transmission. Not that it would be a problem, but with a configuration like this, what's the difference between Kia Sportage and a Alfa Romeo 147?
• The door seals are made of chewing gum that has already been chewed and glued to the door. The effects are not serious, except that the doors will no longer close completely and it is possible to experience rain in the car. Basically, the only difference between the inside of the car and the outside is that the wind will won't be blowing inside.

Kia Sportage SL Verdict

It looks good and that's why people bought it more than they bought tickets for Taylor Swift, Snooki, Gloria Estefan, Deauxma, Bjork and Tom Jones combined. However, to buy an SUV with front-wheel drive, manual transmission and an engine from the compact hatchback class, this means that you want to look successful at any cost, even if you are not quite successful. I have no beef with this configuration on the compactcross-over class such as Captur, SX4 or ASX. But if you get a Kia Sportage SL 1.7 diesel with 117 horsepower, front-wheel drive and manual transmission, then you deserve everything that happens to you in life.

Which engines do I recommend? If you don't care about all-wheel drive, then the 132 horsepower 1.6 MPI petrol engine is the one to go for. If you care about all-wheel drive and want the full experience, then the 136 horsepower 2.0 CRDi diesel is by far the most balanced engine for this generation Sportage.

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Aaaand we're off, with the Cupra Formentor, the very first standalone Cupra. It happened in 2018, when VW announces that Seat will create its own luxury/sport division and it will be called Cupra. Which was not necessarily a groundbreaking move, because Seat used the Cupra badging anyway for their sportiest editions, even the diesel ones. Just as Mercedes uses AMG for sports editions, BMW for M and Citroen for DS, which by the way also created its own identity by going standadlone DS.

So we have the Cupra editions, but we also have some exclusive models for the Cupra, and the Cupra Formentor was the first victim, followed by the Bjork and the Tavascan, and from the SEAT family, the ones that received the Cupra treatment are the Leon and the Leon's slightly taller cousin, that is, the Ateca. So yes, the car is called Cupra Formentor and you will have to explain to people what brand of car it is and that it is not just a cheap Chinese car assembled in the parking lot of the Bullring.

On the other hand, Cupra Formentor, this slightly taller Leon because it's not exactly a Leon on stilts because it has a ground clearance only 1-2 cm higher than Leon, is not a cheap cashgrab. Neither cashgrab nor cheap, because at the time I got drunk and fired this article, the Cupra Formentor costs 3-4000 grand more than the equivalent Leon and Leon is not a cheap hatchback from the start. In fact, if you don't look at money, the Cupra Formentor can easily reach the 70,000 pound area, because in the top equipment that starts at 55,000 pounds and you have to pay extra for the electrically operated trunk with a foot sensor and you have to pay in addition, for wireless phone charging space and I don't know about you, but it seems to me that this money should already be included.

And then why buy a Cupra Formentor?

Cupra Formentor is worth considering only in 2 scenarios. The first scenario is the one in which the Cupra Formentor is a SEAT unplugged, but it starts at 50,000 pounds and is really worth all the money, and the second scenario is in the middle of the road.

• So we start with the bells and whistles. Sure, it costs 50 grand and more, but it gets the glorious 2.5 Turbo straight-5 from Audi, used intensively on Audi TT and Audi RS3. It's a more aggressive Golf R, which seems taller, a bit cheaper and sportier. In fact, that's pretty much the whole idea of ​​the Cupra, except that you can't really present yourself on the market with a single model that starts at 50,000 pounds. 
• So at the opposite pole is the Cupra Formentor 1.5 TSI, which starts at just 30 grand and is located somewhere in the middle of the cross-over craze. It costs about the same as the Hyundai Tucson, Kia Sportage, Toyota C-HR, Skoda Karoq, Peugeot 3008, Ford Kuga and whatever else was launched this week. And for that you get a 1.5 turbo and an almost aggressive looking crossover and these can be all the arguments you need. Or is it? This is a tough crowd afterall, and a car sector as crowded as a indian train.

Cupra Formentor Engines

Petrol

• 1.5 TSI EA211 of 150 horsepower – As I said, the Cupra Formentor deserves its rather steep price point either in the basic configuration or in the bells and whistles edition. Sure, this 1.5 TSI chuggs oil and there are issues with the DSG automatic gearbox because it jumps out of place like I jump out of bed when Total Drama Island starts, but a manual 1.5 TSI is just another cross-over on the market. At least it has the looks going on for it.
• 2.0 TSI EA888 of 190 and 310 horsepower – Honestly? If you want a Formentor sport but you really don't have that much money to spare and you want to have all the tiles on your house, get a Leon. It comes with the same engines, but is cheaper and lower and sportier. And there the 2.0 TSI has several versions of power and including the Cupra treatment, it's just that much better a choice.
• 2.5 TSI EA855 of 390 horsepower - Yes, it's that 2.5 in 5 cylinders in line used on the Audi RS3 and the Audi TTRS and which somehow ended up on the Cupra Formentor. And here it deserves its money, because the equivalent Golf R only hasI meanto deal with the 2.0 TSI mentioned before and be surprised, but the price difference is not really that big. But coming back to the engine, the 2.5 TSI is also famous for the excessive consumption of alcohol which seriously damages the boredom... this, the excessive consumption of oil, so nothing new in the VW backyard. Next to that, you must add the air flow meter, the turbo and the coilpacks on the issues list. But when you have 400 horsepower pack, does it really matter? Will a coilpack really stop you?

Diesel

2.0 TDI EA189 of 150 horsepower - And they had to offer a diesel because in Europe people are addicted to diesel just like Vinnie Jones was addicted to maiming his victims, so they came with the standard 150 horsepower 2.0 TDI on offer. Which today is a decent engine in terms of reliability as long as you don't buy it to drive around town with it, but buy a Cupra Formentor diesel is like being a professional bodybuilder and using your muscles only for farming or carrying parcels . It's like having a bottle of whiskey, but inside it's actually Fosters.

Hybrid

1.4 TSI EA211 Hybrid of 204 and 245 horsepower – The old 1.4 TSI that we are used to in the VW group and which does a decent job. The only real issue with it is that we don't have mechanics and you won't really find parts for the hybrid, but that's a general rule for hybrids.

Cupra Formentor Reliability Issues

• The multimedia system works when and if it wants to, because it is a modern VW product. In addition to this, I must also mention the complementary issues on the electrical side.
• Collision Assist is more sensitive than Cam Pritchett, and Front Assist resigns if it senses a breeze. It would be a shame if it were placed in the boot of the car.
• It's a modern VW product, so I have to talk about the complementary issues related to the DSG box. From the Mechatronic to the clutches, to the fact that there are moments when it jumps out, just like I jump out of bed in the morning. With swearing and noises.
• The boot is unimpressive and realistically only has space for a CD with Trailer Park Boys - Countdown to liquor day, especially if you have a hybrid Cupra Formentor. 

Cupra Formentor Verdict

The Cupra Formentor is definitely a Seat that the Spaniards created without feeling the VW leash around their neck and it was a success for the Cupra brand. When was the last time you saw a new Leon? What about a Cupra Formentor? Exactly. Even if you have to explain what that Cupra is, Formentor is one of the cross-overs that looks more aggressive and many people buy it for its looks and because it's a VW, but also taken as a decent car. I repeat, it is worth it either in the basic configuration or the VZ25 with 390 horsepower. The middle team does not convince me.

Which engines do I recommend? Either the 1.5 TSI with 150 horsepower and a manual gearbox, or the 2.5 TSI with 390 horsepower. That much. Yes, there is also a 2.0 TDI with 150 horsepower, but a Leon makes much more sense with this engine.

Because the niche to which the Audi Q2 is catering is thinner than the clothing of a summer band that animates the beaches. Which is very wierd, because the Germans are very good at selling cars that we didn't know we needed. Cars like Mercedes CLS, Series 4 GranCoupe, BMW X6, Audi Q7, R Class and other cars that deviate from society more than Diogenes the Cynic. And Audi Q2 is an evolution in the wrong sense of an already existing idea, it is not a new musical genre.

And this happened thanks to the Audi Q3 which was an unexpected success for Audi and/or VW, just as the Q5 was an unexpected success. That is, they expected success, but not at this scale. So they also looked at the moderate success of the A1 and thought "mmmm, how about we take an A1 and give it some taller sneakers on it and sell it for a lot of money?" and then the answer was "yes, let's take an A1 and put some slightly taller sneakers on it and sell it for a lot of money" and that's how the Audi Q2 appeared, which is either a smaller Q3 or a taller A1 , it depends on how you look at it.

Except that the Audi Q2 wasn't the succes which Audi and VW expected. In fact, it was not even a success, which is why in 2022 the decision was made to discontinue it altogether when it meets it's technological end, because it was too expensive to buy again and on the used market the prices are comparable to the Audi Q3 and are not really so far off from the Audi Q5 so you have to ask yourself why buy a Q2?

Especially when you find out that it is built on the same platform as the Golf VII and Cupra Formentor, Skoda Karoq, Octavia III, T-Roc, Jetta and others. It's just that it's more expensive and smaller than all of them, possibly all at once. And you don't want to know how expensive. At the time I wrote this, the most expensive used Q2 on autotrader costs 37,000 pounds, and the next one costs 35,000 pounds. And for that money you get a 1.5 Turbocharged petrol which develops 150 horsepower, an automatic gearbox and a 4×4 system that you will never use on a Q2. But it could be worse, much worse, because I also entered the mobile.de to see how much the most expensive Q2 costs, and it costs 61,350 euros, and the next one costs 57,500 or so euros. Even if it has every single option ticked, paying 61,350 euros for an Audi Q2 says something about you and not necessarily in a good way.

Audi Q2 Engines

Petrol

• 1.0 TFSI EA211 of 115 horsepower – The entry level engine for the entry level VW, which a 30,000 pounds Audi Q2 clearly is, which consistently suffers from oily incontinence. Personally, I wouldn't bother with this engine because you have better options.
• 1.4 TFSI EA211 of 150 horsepower – Such as this excellent 1.4 TFSI at the end of its life. With most of the issues of the past solved and realistically being the last reliable small-class petrol from VW/Audi, this is the most balanced engine for the Q2.
• 1.5 TSI EA211 of 150 horsepower –  I have talked extensively about this engine and unfortunately I cannot recommend it particularly.
• 2.0 TFSI EA888 of 190 horsepower - I can't particularly recommend this either. I mean, the engine is decently reliable (it can only chug oil occasionally), but the problem is that the engine is only available on the SQ2 and costs a billion pounds, which is a bit much for an slightly taller A1. 

Diesel

• 1.6 TDI EA288 of 116 horsepower – I'm not the biggest fan of this engine, but for Q2 and Q3 this engine makes a lot of sense because they share roughly the same market. Wealthy moms who live in a generous house outside the city, who have to take their children to kindergarten and then probably to work (usually they have businesses and others go to work for them) so that short distance from the house to the city is enough for this engine to breathe and not get clogged. If you buy it and plan to drive it soley around town with it however, then it will be strangled as if it were paying for it and it will cause you a whole string of issues, from DPF clogging, dual mass flywheel failing and up to injectors failing.
• 2.0 TDI EA288 of 150 and 190 horsepower – As in the case of the 2.0 TFSI, the Audi Q2 in this trim level is much too expensive, and the 2.0 TDI is not an engine with which you can go from home to the city and back, 2.0 TDI it's a long-distance engine and the Q2 is not a long-distance car. So I will pass on it simply because you don't need this sort of engine for this sort of car.

Audi Q2 Reliability Issues

• The rock hard suspension on the Q2 is a bigger mystery to me than the mystery of What's with Andy?. Maybe for the 200 horsepower SQ2 you do actually need a sportier suspension, but at 116 horspower you won't give it to you at the edge of the bed. In any case, take the car for a drive and see if you get along with the suspension.
• In the sweet VW style, the entry level models are really barrel bottom when it comes to features. And this goes hand in hand with the third issue, namely the high general price of the car, but we have already talked about that.

Audi Q2 Verdict

The important thing is that they tried. But it seems that people who want a supermini cross-over also want it to be cheap, so it seems that the Audi Q3 is the lower limit in terms of dimensions for premium cross-overs. And I'm not saying it, it's not Joe Rogan saying it, but the market is saying it, which is why Q2 was withdrawn and we probably won't see a Q1 very soon. We have Q4 instead. Maybe it will be a moment like the predecessor Audi A2, another experimental car that didn't do too well but paved the way for other more successful models, like the VW Fox.

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol power, clearly 150 horsepower 1.4 TSI, and for diesel the 116 horsepower 1.6 TDI is all the engine you'll ever need.

And if that weren't enough, the Audi Q5 80A is the spiritual successor of the second generation Touareg, because it is a cross-over-almost-SUV that is very good at everything but excellent at nothing. And I could work as intensively as a gubment worker on the weekend and say that the Audi Q5 80A is a safe choice, probably the safest choice, for a premium cross-over/SUV. And with that I can pack up and go home.

Mostly because Audi from time to time releases the perfect recipe right out the bat, see the cases of RS4, RS6, TT, Q7 and consequently Q5. And there was no reason not to come up with the recipe for the Q5, because in 2008 the world had money to throw out the window, usually out of the window of an X5 or Range Rover or Cayenne. But many people, especially fur coat wearing older women, were intimidated by the size of these Chelsea tractors, and that's how smaller Chelsea tractors appeared, such as the X3 and the Q5. Plus, a Q5 does roughly the same thing as a Touareg, only it fits in the gate without emotions, it's a bit cheaper, and very important for some, it also came with 2 litre engines and you didn't give as much money to the council every year. I also remembered the manual gearbox, which is cheaper to maintain. But honestly, a manual Q5 2.0 TDI is just a taller and bigger Passat. And frankly many do not need more than that. And that made the Q5 quite reliable and one of the more reasonable premium crossovers in terms of running costs.

So where do you go from here?

• That's a really good question, because the Polynesians from Audi did not know what to do in particular and only improved the recipe a little but without diluting it. So the Audi Q5 80A is a little bit bigger, a little bit more comfortable, a little bit more modern and that's about it. The only major changes are to the automatic transmission because they got rid of the CVT box on the 4-cylinder engines and brought their own DSG, affectionately called Tiptronic, and the 6-cylinder engines move to the ZF 8HP 8-speed automatic box. And there would also be hybrid engines, but that happens in the industry anyway, and the Audi Q5 80A was one of the reference cars in it's segment so the hybrid treatment was inevitable.
• And here we come to the only weak point of the Audi Q5 80A, namely the hybrid and electric motors. Audi decided to launch its own collection of electric vehicles "e-Tron". That's why the roads are filled with Q4 e-Tron, Q5 e-Tron, Q8 e-Tron and what else was launched this week. Reason for which the Audi Q5 80A will also be slowly retired.

Audi Q5 80A Engines

Petrol

• 2.0 TFSI EA888 of 190 and 252 horsepower - We start off with a modest but enough 2.0 TFSI which is an interesting option but in a Europe where we know how to say "diesel" better than we know how to sing It's not unusual, it didn't really find its purpose on the bri'ish plains. But if you find it and you're ok with the oil consumption, the 2.0 TFSI is a decent choice for a city dwelling Q5.
• 3.0 TFSI EA839 of 354 horsepower – The old SQ5 continues its adventure and is basically an Audi S4 / S5 on stilts. I didn't necessarily understand the SQ5, but it's important to have a cross-over in the offer that runs faster than the gubment workers run from work, because otherwise everyone will run towards the F-Pace and the Velar. As for specific issues, you must consider the injectors that must be adjusted or at least checked at each servicing.

Diesel

• 2.0 TDI EA189 of 150, 163 and 190 horsepower – Ah yes, the classic 2.0 TDI. The only engine with which the Q5 should've been sold. As before, the VW village bicycle is effectively everywhere and is the entry-level engine for the entry-level Q5, because too few people buy the Q5 to be the neighborhood raceboi. As is tradition with this engine and any modern diesel really, it must be kept away from the city just as I am kept away from Eva Longoria, because otherwise you will have issues with the EGR, particle filter and injectors failing. As I said earlier, the most important update is the switch from the CVT automatic gearbox to the double clutch DSG automatic gearbox. It is not necessarily cheaper to run, but it is much better to drive.
• 3.0 TDI of 231, 286 and 341 horsepower - Honestly, a 3.0 TDI Q5 is effectively a 5 seater Q7 or a Q7 Lite, which is very good because the Q7 has reached some dimensions comparable to Johnny's megapint, and for many people the Q7 and the megapint are way too intense. So if you don't want to be the biggest elephant in traffic but still want the grunt of a Q7, the Q5 is for you. Issues with the injectors and oil leaks.

Hybrid

• 2.0 TFSI hybrid of 250, 299 and 367 horsepower - It was clear that the Q5 would also receive the hybrid treatment, but here in Europe it didn't really catch on because a Q5 is traditionally powered by a 2.0 TDI on the one hand, and on the other VW didn't really bother with hybrids. Either pure ICE engine, or pure electric. But it is good to know that it exists.
• 2.0 TDI hybrid of 204 horsepower - Likewise, it's the sort of hybrid put up for sale to meet the emission figures and pass the class.

Audi Q5 80A Reliability Issues

• European models are built in Mexico and VW does not have the best reputation when it comes to cars built in Mexico. However, the Audi Q5 80A is a quite resistant car, almost as resistant as gubment workers when it comes to work. But I would still check the interior and pull some plastics just like I pull myself to write this review. But atleast all Q5s are built in the same Mexico high tech factory which builds Q5 exclusively so it's not as bad as other american built Audis.
• The suspension is not very comfy on the bigger rims because of course you can install 20" rims on a Q5. But it shouldn't surprise you, just as it didn't surprise anyone that Biden dropped out of the election.
• It's an Audi so the entry level models come poorly equipped and if you start ticking boxes it can get pretty expensive pretty fast. Too fast in my oppinion.

Audi Q5 80A Verdict

It's still a correctly executed recipe, which the Audi engineers did not dillute too much because if it is good, why spoil it? Sure, it looks boring... I mean sober and classic, but if you want a premium cross-over that is reliable, sturdy and you don't want something that goes out of the norm (such as the Citroen C5 AirCross), then the Audi Q5 80A remains the safest cross-over premium as far as buying with the brain goes. If it were a gift, it would be bed linen. If it were an clothing piece, it would be a branded polo shirt.

Which engines do I recommend? For the petrol power - the 2.0 TFSI if you want something light and 3.0 TFSI of 354 horsepower for a kick in the nads, but the main party piece remains the 2.0 TDI of 150, 163 or 190 horsepower.

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Many times it happens that when a new boss comes around to show around who's the boss, things come around. We have so many examples – when BMW bought Land Rover, "borrowed" the 4×4 technology and left, Ford bought Volvo, "borrowed" the safety technology and left. Ford bought Mazda, "borrowed" the engines and left. And General Motors bought Opel and tried to make a stir on the European car market. And the Chevrolet Aveo T200?

Chevrolet Aveo T200 was the first car built by Daewoo, after they were bought by General Motors. And miraculously, the Chevrolet Aveo T200 sold like hot cakes or Becks V The Menthol's music. And this was just Europe, because the original Aveo has so many names and so many personalities that it makes The Pretender look like an amateur. It wasn't the best possible car, but at least it was cheap and almost anyone who made a minimal effort in life could afford it new. And in Europe it was more of of Matiz with a boot, that was the idea of ​​the Chevrolet Aveo T200. It wanted to be an alternative to the cheaps of it's day such as the Daihatu Cuore or the Vauxhall Corsa, and everywhere else in the world it was a heavyweight. And the original Aveo was actually a Matiz with a boot, because the 1.2 engine was an evolution of the 0.8 engine on the Daewoo Matiz, Daewoo Tico and Suzuki Alto. Probably the rest of the car was built at the same time as the Matiz, only they were kept out in the sun for a few years so that the Matiz could be retired and the Aveo could be sold after.

And outside Europe?

Clench your buttocks and get ready for this. Holden Barina, Pontiac G3, Chevrolet Lova, Chevrolet Nexia, Pontiac Wave, Chevrolet Kalos, Ravon Nexia, Suzuki Swift+, ZAZ Vida and many more. As I said, the Aveo was all car to all men, women, children and whoever generally wanted cheap mobility. And the Aveo delivered. Some say the Aveo also kept the Suzuki brand alive in Canada for as long as it could. Singlehandedly. Cheap, reliable, no frills motoring at almost it's finest.

Chevrolet Aveo T200 Engines

Petrol

• 1.2 S-TEC of 72 and 84 horsepower – The 72 horsepower version has 6 valves per cylinder and the 84 version has 12 valves per cylinder and that's about the main difference. As I said, this engine is an evolution of the engine on the Tico, which in itself is the base engine for the Alto. A fairly resistant engine but lacking in performance. Plus it never really heard about the word "economy", neither for petrol nor for oil. Small as Snooki, thirsty as DJ Pauly D.
• 1.4 E-TEC A13SMS of 83, 94 and 101 106 horsepower – We make a huge technological leap and go from the Daewoo sourced 1.2 petrol to 1.4 petrol found on the Vauxhall Corsa B. In fact, this engine is so old that it didn't even have a check engine light. Pay close attention to oil consumption and pack a bunch of O2 sensors with you on long journeys.
• 1.5 E-Tec A15SMS of 86 horsepower - Mostly found in Latin America, this middle child of the E-TEC family is there for you, with as little enthusiasm and issues as possible. 
• 1.6 E-TEC II L91 of 106 horsepower - Now we're talking, because we are making another jump in power from Snooki to Hulk Hogan. We no longer have a 1.4 petrol from the Corsa B, but we have the 1.6 from the Opel Vectra A. Which also means that you need to stock up on oil barrels, ECUs and O2 sensors with you on any journey longer than 10 miles.

Chevrolet Aveo T200 Reliability Issues

• It's a Daewoo with Chevrolet written on it and that means it's a low quality car in general. But at least it's cheap enough that you don't care. It has no specific issues in the sense that all parts will fail sooner or later. If it's worth repairing, it's up to you.
• The engines are put to work as much as a gubment worker, so don't expect performance from them.

Chevrolet Aveo T200 Verdict

A cheaper alternative to the Vauxall Corsa. Yes. A cheaper Corsa. Sure, the Corsa has quality issues and rust, but at least it has a diesel, it's more reliable and it can run faster. But it is also more expensive. On the other hand, I have to admit that in the "under 500 GBP" category, it is very difficult to beat the Chevrolet Aveo T200 and maybe if you want a cheap means of transportation and that's where the list ends, you are not interested in anything else, the Chevrolet Aveo I is a decent car for the genre this mission.

What engines do I recommend? The old 94 horsepower 1.4 petrol engine is by far the most balanced engine for the Chevrolet Aveo T200, a car that is totally off balance.

As in the case of the Captiva - Antara duo, the Chevrolet Trax is the budget version of the Vauxhall Mokka, one of the best budget cross-overs, for the sort of person who doesn't know anything about cars and doesn't want to know anything. 
He just wants a good, reliable and affordable cross-over. Although, technically speaking, the Chevrolet Trax is the rural cousin of the Chevrolet Trax – Vauxhall Mokka – Buick Encore trio, Mokka and Encore being the older brothers.

It comes standard with 16-inch rims, which is perfect for those who don't know anything about cars or rims and they don't know what's the deal with the inches on the rims sizes. Sure, you can see the difference in equipment and quality between Trax and the Mokka and the Encore, just as you can see the difference in equipment between Sofia Boutella and Sofia Vergara, but the Trax is also much cheaper on the used market than Mokka, at least at the time when I wrote this literary calamity. And after all, when you look at Trax or Mokka, you are interested in a cross-over but you are not interested so much that you also look at the equipment listing with the same passion that I look at at Sofia Vergara's equipment listing every day.

I said that the Chevrolet Trax was quite an important car in North America, so I have to get down to business.

Chevrolet didn't have a compact cross-over since 2004, but they still decided to sell the Mokka in Europe and the Buick Encore for China, and they brought some models to North America as well, to have a compact cross-over in their offer. But surprise surprise, the Buick Encore and Vauxhall Mokka did in fact sell. In fact, they sold so well that the competition came up with this compact cross-over recipe, see the Jeep Renegade. So the Americans thought of launching a budget version of the Buick Encore and that's how the Chevrolet Trax was born in 2015, 3 years after the Mokka and Encore. And some reached Europe. And Trax enjoyed a mini-success, because it started at $20,100 in the US. In fact, even the current Trax starts at $20,400 in the US, and this is where you begin to understand the success of this potato soup on wheels.

Chevrolet Trax U200 Engines

Petrol

1.4 Turbo A14NET 140 horsepower – The base engine and the most popular engine in Europe, the 1.4 Turbo engine really had it's fair share of problems at launch, but in 2024 you most likely won't find a Trax with these issues because this engine had some important updates in 2016 and the issues were solved. Just pay attention to the oil quality and check for oil leaks, but overall it's a reliable engine.

1.6 MPI A16XER of 115 horsepower – If you still live in 1950 and are afraid of turbochargers, then the old 1.6 naturally aspirated petrol is for you. You just have to find it, because it's rarer than my moments of lucidity. Or the moments when the underpants are not harneded... Being an old-generation engine, you just have to be careful with the oil consumption, but overall it's a good enough engine for you. If it was good enough for Astra and Cruze taxi drivers, it's good enough for you too.

1.8 A18XER of 140 horsepower - The 1.8 petrol A18XER was reserved solely for Latin America and it was the only engine available really. An old design, this bigger brother of the 1.6 petrol is reliable and decently punchy. Just remember to replace the spark plugs every now and then and you're good to go. 

Diesel

1.7 CDTi A17DTS of 130 horsepower – This is where you see the main difference between the hardened and normal underpants…no, wait, not that….this is where you see the difference between the Trax and the Mokka because the Trax only had the old 1.7 diesel available and didn't get and the 1.6 diesel that replaced it. An antique engine, of Isuzu origin, which was used since the Astra G, this van engine will not be the last word in sportiness, but at least it is reliable, because that is what you are mainly looking for from Mokka and Trax.

Chevrolet Trax U200 Reliability Issues

• The modest boot space and the modest rear visibility would be the Trax's main issues, but if you graduated from the 50 Cent driving school that says you always look forward, never back, it's not a problem for you. An issue for the Trax is that it may not have standard rear parking sensors and it is necessary to install them yourself.
• It is rarer than the Mokka, so some parts may be harder to find or OEM spec only. Especially when you consider that the Trax uses different body panels than the Mokka.
• It's a GM product and I have to talk about the M32 5-speed manual gearbox, which is not the most reliable gearbox possible. The 6 speed manual box and the automagic however are fine.

Chevrolet Trax Verdict

While doing my homework on the Trax, I read a comment that said the Chevrolet Trax is the car equivalent of the color beige. And I understand that, because the Trax is the budget version of a budget crossover. But if you are the type of person looking for a budget crossover, why pay 2-3000 pounds more for a Mokka, when you can buy a Trax? Yes, it's more basic, but when you're looking for a car like this, do you really care?

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol power, I recommend the naturally aspirated 1.6, 115 horsepower petrol engine, if you can find it. As for diesel, you only have the 1.7 available and that's fine honestly.

This is because the Suzuki Celerio presents itself in front of you like this. If you look through the ads, most of them have less than 50,000 miles and cost 3000 pounds. Basically, the Suzuki Celerio FE is the answer to all those who wanted the Golf IV to be released again, today.

Does it tho?

Suzuki Celerio was supposed to be the replacement of Alto, another car that hardly anyone bought. It still came with the bare minimum equipment, it had a shifter moved up on the dashboard to make it easier for you to change gears, because when you are 850 years old as the typical Celerio owner is, it matters a lot. And yet it didn't quite work out, because the Celerio already had to go up against the Suzuki Splash, and after Suzuki Splash came Suzuki Ignis, so if you wanted a cheap car, with a raised driver's position, but you didn't want to be automobilistically stuck in 2002, the Ignis was a much better option.

And that created a problem, because the Celerio is much more expensive than the Splash, much cheaper than the Ignis, and it's not even in the middle of the center. And very few people bought it, and those 3 buyers decided that this will be their last car because they are old anyway. And I'm not making fun of the Celerio 100%, but at the time I wrote this review there were less than 100 Celerios for sale on mobile.de. Quite alot on autotrader though, which is surprising exactly nobody. A brand new car for 6000 GBP? Where do I sign up? Who needs air conditioning anyway.

The illusion of the low mileage used car

I never would've thought that the Suzuki Celerio would be one of the cars where I would touch this topic, namely the mirage of low mileage used car. But it makes sense, because if you see a 2018 Celerio with 30,000 miles on the clock, chances are very high that those numbers are real. Because the Celerio was bought mainly by private individuals, who don't even have baggy eyes and a beer gut due to age, they already have arthritis. People who generally don't drive a lot and want a new but cheap car. I don't judge them, because I understand the logic and there is a market for these people as well.

It's just that a car that is sitting degrades much faster than one that is running. So if you see a car with low mileage but quite a few years behind it, it is not necessarily a good idea. Rust advances faster, plastic pipes wear out faster, brakes also wear out sitting in the parking lot. So if you want to make such a purchase, you must take into account that you will have to replace quite a lot, from simple seals to batteries and brakes. But at least in the case of Celerio, such an overhaul will cost you the equivalent of two beers and a Pall Mall. And that's the beauty of Celerio, because you can buy a simple, low mileage car and for cheaps. Only that it's plain basic. Steering wheel, pedals, shifter and maybe some climate controls. Maybe.

Suzuki Celerio FE Engines

Petrol

1.0 K10B and K10C Dualjet of 68 horsepower – It needed one extra horse power to reach the magic number, but that's all it could pull off. But even those 68 horsepower are enough for the Celerio, because it is not a runaway car, nor is it a globetrotter. In other words, the only thing that stops you from driving the Celerio on the highway is your own conscience, just as the only thing that stops you from going naked in the street is society.

Diesel

0.8 E08A of 50 horsepower - This 2 cylinder diesel was developed by Maruti Suzuki for the India market and it was launched in 2015, to be retired in 2017 because it was too expensive to justify over the petrol. So the Maruti Celerio diesel was crude, loud, slow but atleast it was economical. So just stick to a Maruti Celerio petrol. 

Suzuki Celerio FE Reliability Issues

• The fact that it is a very cheap car, built in India and somehow delivered to Europe, means that cuts were made everywhere. And this also impacts the non-existent soundproofing, from the sheet metal to the bonnet padding. But at least you have the advantage that you will never go fast enough for the external noise to be loud enough.
• The automatic gearbox is an AGS automated manual gearbox and I am not the biggest fan of automated manuals. Besides, an automatic Celerio is not associated with the idea of ​​a cheap car. It's like drinking Moet from a Fosters can. It's like Eva Longoria dressed in baggy clothing. 
• It's a tall and narrow car, so it's not the most agile in the bends. So it's not really the rival of Vauxhall Agila, aka the rebadged Suzuki Splash.

Suzuki Celerio FE Verdict

As I said, if your expectations for a car are as high as the salary offers from the private sector, and if the main criteria is that you want an almost-new, low mileage city car for a good price, then the Suzuki Celerio FE is clearly a choice very good. However, considering that the engine is not very mileage dependent, is it worth paying an premium for a low mileage Suzuki Celerio FE, when you go for a much cheaper, higher mileage Alto? We don't know, we just ask questions. Until then, the Suzuki Celerio FE is a very interesting offer for the bargain hunters..

Which engines do I recommend? Well you have only the 68 horsepower 1 litre petrol to choose from, so that won't be too difficult. But this engine is enough for the city life.

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Truth be told, the Alto had to go up against the Aygo - C1 - 107 triad, the Hyundai i10 - Kia Picanto duo, the Twingo, the Mitsubishi Colt - Smart ForFour duo and I'm sure I forgot something from the list. No wonder it was left behind, biting the dust.

So why buy an Alto and not something else from the list?

• The Alto came strictly with 4 doors and a boot, so you didn't have to dumpster dive through the ads for a 4 door city car the same way I am dumpster diving at three o'clock in the morning, every morning. 
• The main reason instead is that Alto is the cheapest on the list. Alto was not marketed very much and most people have no idea about Alto and so the prices kept low, new and used. It was cheap and new, and again I say that it wasn't really marketed so it flew under the radar of the fleet cars and they are generally private owned. So they won't be so used and abused. Plus you can buy a Euro 5 Alto for 1500-2500 pounds in 2024 and it's hard to find a Euro 5 car for less. That is if Euro 5 is relevant for you.
• Suzuki Alto HA25 is another car...almost another car that has a reliable automatic transmission because, you won't believe it, it came with a 4-speed torque converter. And it's the only Japanese city car from its time, that had a classic torque converter gearbox, because Mitsubishi and Toyota used automated manuals on their city cars. Which is also what Suzuki would do with the next model, the Celerio coming with an automated manual.
• It is a very small car, with which many will envy you around town. It does 40 mpg city, you can park it anywhere, and for 1500 pounds you won't care if you hit a pole or find the door dented in the parking lot, because the gentleman that parked next to you opened the door of his car as if he here at the Olympic Games.

Suzuki Alto HA25 Engines

Petrol

1.0 K10B of 68 horsepower – We have only one engine and it needed one more horsepower to be the perfect engine. In fact, in order for it to have been perfect, it would have also needed the engine and gearbox mounts replaced every 3 weeks. But you will more than make up for the costs by saving money on petrol, because if it were a person it would've been a girl drinking water.

Suzuki Alto HA25 Reliability Issues

• If you have a Suzuki Alto, you probably won't be looking back too much and will only look forward. And not because you've listened to some Jordan Peterson podcast, but because the windshield wiper constantly fails. 
• Low level of equipment. Many do not have air conditioning or even a rev counter. Not that you need a rev counter in an 68 horsepower 1 litre Alto, but it's good to know you have it.

Suzuki Alto HA25 Verdict

Suzuki Alto HA25 remains one of the cheapest city cars, Euro 5 cars and cars in general. The level of equipment is minimal. But when you know that you have a car that does 40 mpg city, and that you have to change the oil and/or parts when you remember, does it really matter that you don't have basic equipment such as a rev counter or climate control ? Yes, it's almost a car, but it's one of the best city cars you can buy at the moment.

Which engines do I recommend? Clearly the 68 horsepower 1.0 K10B and I would tune it for exactly 1 extra horse power, so that it would be the perfect number.

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In the the first generation i10's review, I was talking about how it bridged the gap between the Hyundai Getz and the Hyundai i10 PA. If the Hyundai Getz is a brilliant car for those who want urban transportation cheaper than the bus, the original i10 was a car for retirees and the Hyundai i10 IA was a car clearly built for door dashing.

Slightly larger than its predecessor, the Hyundai i10 IA came with a 10% larger boot to accommodate more orders. It was a bit more expensive than the basic Corsa, but it also came with a lot more standard equipment. If you care about that 20-year-old kid you just hired as a delivery driver, then get an i10 because it came standard with 4 airbags, side airbags and ESP, in addition to the standard air conditioning. And if you don't care about him, you throw him in a Vauxhall Corsa with power-nothing.

Moreover, the Hyundai i10 IA gave a serious kick to the nads of the competition, receiving from Hyundai an LPG conversion right from the factory, whereas the Corsa didn't receive much of an update and it just wasn't that much of a good news. It's just that, if you were and still are the absolute cheapskate, you will still go for the Corsa. But should you? 

Hyundai i10 IA Engines

• Petrol
• 1.0 G3LA of 68 horsepower - Yes, it's very sturdy and quite good, but the star of the car is the factory built LPG variant. And you'll be in luck because many of the classifieds come with this engine. I wonder how much it costs to drive this car around town, as the regular petrol variant does 35 mpg city. With LPG, it is probably cheaper to go 100 km around town than to buy a pack of cigarettes.
• 1.2 G4LA of 84 horsepower - The same 4 cylinder 1.2 MPI that we have been used to since the time of Tom Jones, this engine is somewhat decent but known for it's appetite for clutches that can only be matched by Vinnie Jones' appetite for culture, poetry and semi-philosophy.

Diesel

1.1 D3FA of 70 horsepower - Just like how chewing gum stuck to the soles of the your footwear, such does the 1.1 crdi diesel stick to the i10. 1.1 CRDi – the mold of the automotive world. Sensitive to driving around town, which is a shame since the i10 is built specifically for driving around town. If you still decide to buy it for the urban haul, set aside money for the particle filter, EGR, turbo, injectors, commonrail ramp and so on.

Hyundai i10 IA Reliability Issues

• There are still issues from the past with the brakes, especially with the rear brakes. I say further because rear brakes have been an issue since the days of the Hyundai Getz. And with the i10 IA you also get premature wear on the brakes on the front.
• As with any modern Hyundai, the tire pressure monitoring sensors have a mind of their own. If they are not installed properly, the Christmas tree will light up on your dashboard and Mariah Carey will come out of the glove box and start nagging at you because you interrupted her summer Xmas concert.
• Now on to the automatic gearbox, it should be noted that it is an antique 4 speed torque converter. It's not the fastest gearbox possible, but if you change the oil every 37,000 miles / 60,000 kms it will spin endlessly.
• As with many modern cars, somewhere around 2014 Hyundai switched to R1234YF type refrigerant, which is more flammable, more corrosive and most importantly – several times more expensive than the classic R134a type refrigerant.

Hyundai i10 IA Verdict

Much like how BMW did with the Series 3 F30, everything was played on one card – the LPG 1 litre engine. One of the best city cars at the moment, which beats the Corsa for the simple fact that it is more equipped and because it has smaller dimensions. Regardless of whether you want to buy it for food delivery duty or just for the city commute, an LPG i10 is one of the cheapest ways to move your crusty bottom around the city, and even in a comfortable way. You just have to convince yourself that it's an excellent family car and you don't need a second car.

Which engines do I recommend? Honestly they should've just sold with the 1.0 LPG engine. It's all the engine the i10 needs.

The year is 2000 and The Sims has just launched together with the big show Big Brother, which would change the face of television and give it some plastic surgery that would make Kim Kardashian green in envy. And in the automotive world we had the Toyota Rav4 which was kickstarting the cross-over hysteria, so Ford thought of releasing the first cross-over, with a unibody construction and no ladder frame chassis like all the real men's cars had at that time. And Ford thought of turning to Mazda, because in 1979 they bought 24.5% of Mazda shares and in 1995 they needed two turnips in heat and went 33.4% on Mazda shares, so they were pretty much owners. So they rang up the people from Mazda HQ and decided that a joint cross-over is the hottest thing they need to do in 2000. 

Which turned out to be very important for Mazda, because Ford had been building SUVs and trucks for some time, but for Mazda it was effectively their first cross-over / SUV. And without the Mazda Tribute, or Matsuda Toribyūto as the Japanese say, we wouldn't have gotten the Mazda CX-5 in 2011. In fact, some even say that without the Mazda Tribute we wouldn't have tofu cheese, water flowing from the wall and straight railways.

How is the Tribute different from the Escape?

• Well, first of all, Mazda is written on one and Ford on the other.
• Secondly, the Mazda Tribute comes with a slightly sportier suspension because Mazda couldn't resist, but otherwise they are identical. And somehow the Tribute is cheaper than the Escape on the used market.
• The big one however is that the Tribute didn't get the hybrid powertrain, making sure that the Tribute does stay the budget cousin of the family. Only the Escape and the Mercury Mariner got the Toyota engineered hybrid powertrain, so it's all naturally aspirated for you baby!

Mazda Tribute EP Engines

Petrol

• 2.0 YF of 124 horsepower – This is not the stock Mazda engine, but the old ZeTec from Ford, which you find in the Mondeo and other stuff from when you were young and able. Occasionally you have to replace the thermostat, but otherwise it's an engine you can forget about, just like how girls tend to forget that they had a date with me and never show up. 
• 2.3 MPI L3 of 150 horsepower - Here we have a proper Mazda engine, but as I said in the Escape review, the engine is reliable but it is crippled by the council taxes in many countries so yeah. Not sure about it. 
• 3.0 V6 AJ of 200 horsepower – An American engine for a Japanese car. Yes, it only has 200 horsepower. Yes, it's not very economical. But it will outlast the rest of the car. Possibly it will even bury you. 

Mazda Tribute EP Reliability Issues

• It is not the safest in case of an accident. I don't want to have an accident like that, but even less would I do it behind the wheel of a Mazda Tribute.
• Yea, there is an 4 speed automagic but I would hard pass on that. Not that reliable, and prolly wasn't that well serviced during it's life. 
• As goes with the Escape / Maverick, the rust is literally everywhere, and it's especially bad on the subframe. Ford and Mazda decided that paint is for wusses and decided to bolt on plastic. So now pretty much everything was left exposed and it rusted away.

Mazda Tribute EP Verdict

The Mazda Tribute EP remains the budget version of the Ford Escape and is definitely a good choice for the type of person who wants to buy their first SUV to go soft roading and doesn't want to take the financial plunge into something expensive. Yes, it's not an SUV and it's technically the first crossover from Ford and the first real crossover from Mazda, but it's an almost memorable car. But atleast if it weren't for the Mazda Tribute EP, we would not have gotten the Mazda CX-5, its direct successor. It can be seen that Mazda learned its lesson well from the Tribute.

Which engines do I recommend? Any petrol engine will do really. If you're not in a tax punishing country, then the 2.3 litre Mazda engine is the middle of the road and the pick of the bunch. But you won't go wrong with any of the engines really.

I say this mainly because the Hyundai i10 PA bridges the gap between the Hyundai Getz and the Hyundai i10 BA, just as the BMW E36 bridged between the famous BMW E30 and the bombastic BMW E46, and with that I wish you a good night.

The Hyundai Getz was one of the first cars of the Korean manufacturer to be abandoned in European ports. And it was an automotive curiosity, being during its illustrious career one of the cheapest cars on the market. An excellent car in 2024 for those who want something cheap, with which to transport their bottoms around town. I mean, so cheap that it's more expensive to use public transport than with a Hyundai Getz, that level of cheap. The kind of car for the kind of man who has caught communism and is used to washing his toilet paper and drying it so he can reuse it. The kind of man who has a notebook in which he meticulously records all his expenses, from parts to fuel costs. Wears a wool beanie. Causes trouble wherever he goes and shouts at the supermarket cashiers. Can't be arsed to follow traffic rules anymore. 

And the Hyundai i10 PA continues approximately on the same path. A car that is still cheap, and in the basic version you get airbags, air conditioning, cd player and front electric windows. Add to that the fact that it has the shifter on top of the dashboard like a Transporter or any other van and you have the perfect car for the pensioner looking for a car. It's tall, has the shifter up high on the dashboard, has all the necessary equipment even at the basic trim, so it doesn't make sense to spend money on another trim level, and you don't get kicked in your financial nads and you can afford it new. It's even shorter than my career at Sephora, so anyone can actually afford running it. And now that I have come to write about cars for old people, I can say that my career at Autodrivel is almost over.

Hyundai i10 PA Engines

Petrol

• 1.0 G3LA Kappa II of 65 horsepower – Arriving quite late for the Hyundai i10 party, this engine came in 2011 and would go on to become famous on the next generation Hyundai i10 and Kia Picanto as one of the best engines in the food delivery industry. Reliable, simple, with an official fuel economy of 36 mpg city, here we have the genesis of one of the best modern engines. We just have to wait for the second generation of the i10, because it also came with the LPG option from the factory.
• 1.1 G4HD Epsilon of 69 horsepower – You'd think a 69 horsepower engine would be fun, as by default anything with the number 69 in it is fun. But unfortunately this antiquity was retired by emissions regulations, but it still did its duty honorably on Getz. What about the Hyundai i10 PA? I would go with one of the other 2 petrol engines.
• 1.25 G4LA Kappa of 84 horsepower – Essentially the 4-cylinder version of the 1.0, this 1.2 Kappa was rather the standard engine on the i20 and it's not necessarily a good thing was because this engine is notorious for its appetite for clutches just like I have an appetite for Carole Samaha, Gordon Ramsay for sandwhiches and Diddy for...

Diesel

1.1 CRDi D3FA of 74 horsepower – Sure, it's a reliable engine, essentially being the 3-cylinder version of the 1.5 diesel from the Hyundai Accident, but are you sure you want a diesel Hyundai i10? Besides, if you only drive it around the city, you will clog its particle filter faster THAN GIRLS CLOGGING THE TOILETS BECAUSE THEY THROW THE TAMPONS IN THE TOILET AND NOT IN THE TRASH BIN.

Hyundai i10 PA Reliability Issues

• Issues with the rear brakes wearing out fast, and that's because i10 eats brakes just like Gorlock the Destroyer feeds himself with all the online hate he got. And if you felt like MackleMore and decided to put disc brakes instead of regular drums, then you will have to be very careful with the calipers, which have a tendency to get stuck.
• The radios on the Hyundais of this period are constantly trying to connect to who knows which satellite network. Which means you will always have to deal with the radio that turns off, loses the frequency, or loses the saved channels.
• Parts are somehow more expensive than for the i30 because the accounting department at Hyundai probably switched the pricing lists by mistake. But at least the i10 is a reliable car, so you will change the parts less often than the typical Hyundai i10 owner changes the gears.

Hyundai i10 PA Verdict

It's not the food delivery car that the second generation i10 turned into, and it's not even the bargain that the Hyundai Getz represented. But sometimes you need a middle child of the family, and the Hyundai i10 PA is exactly that. The middle child. A social outcast, in a dirty country. But prices are still pretty good, the car is pretty reliable so it's definatelly on the city car shortlist. 

What engines do I recommend? For the city warrior, any petrol engine is fine really and you should stick to a petrol engine. Yes, you could also go for the 1.1 diesel, but an diesel i10? Really?

In fact, the closest comparison would be that the Nissan Pulsar is the successor to the Nissan Tiida, a rather anonymous but also reliable hatchback. It was not great, not terrible. It was decent. So naturally, the Nissan Pulsar is another obscure car from Nissan, which no one marketed and no one bought.

Is it worth buying a car that you have never heard of?

Yes and no, if you mean the Nissan Pulsar. If you mean Daihatsu Cuore, the answer is “YES” 3 times. But if you mean the Nissan Pulsar, I don’t know what to say. Indeed, it was one of the first cars to use the new CMF-C platform, after the Qashqai but before Megane IV or Scenic, Kadjar or Talisman, but the lack of image and marketing did not help Pulsar to enter the the European market which was dominated by the hatchback and cross-over segment. Why buy a Nissan Pulsar, a manufacturer that is not known for hatchbacks, when you can go for a more classic version like the Astra, VW Golf, Ford Focus or the blue brother, the Renault Megane?

Of course, the Nissan Pulsar had to have some advantages to be bought over the others. Advantages that, unfortunately, it doesn’t really have. However, in order not to be a hater to the end, I will also talk about what is good about the Nissan Pulsar.

First of all, you have acres  of space. You have so much space that it is comparable to that of the Passat, a car from the class above. Then this car comes with so many safety systems that you feel like Hannibal Lecter and in the event of an impact you have a very high chance of surviving, provided that you are not hit by a Nissan Patrol. And the last advantage for some but disadvantage for others is the very light power steering. The idea is that a very light steering translates into reduced sportiness and poor behavior in high…sorry…higher speed bendstaken at speed, but it is excellent for the urban jungle. If it’s an pro or a no, I’ll leave it to you to decide, but VW has been making cars with ultra-light steering for many years, specifically for the driver who rarely leaves the city but who enjoys an easy steering through parking lots and through tight spaces where you may have to do a lot of back and forth maneuvering. 

Nissan Pulsar C13 Engines

Petrol

• 1.2 Turbo HR12DDT of 115 horsepower – The apple of discord between Renault and Nissan, for which Nissan blamed the French. It is strange that on the Clio IV this engine does not cause such big problems, but on the Nissan Pulsar C13 (and not only) it chuggs oil as if you are saying that it is an event sponsored by Mich Golden’s. It’s cheap, but hey, it gets you going. Sorta.
• 1.6 Turbo MR16DDT of 188 horsepower – Amazingly, the 1.6 Dig-T engine does not chugg down on oil. It does siphon petrol instead, especially when it is mated to the automatic transmission, but on the other hand, you have 188 horsepower at your disposal. The engine, on the other hand, is popular on the Qashqai and the Juke, but on the Nissan Pulsar it is rarer than Boris’s interest in any topic that is not about his fab hair.

Diesel

1.5 dCi K9K of 105 horsepower – The village bicycle 1.5 dCi that we all know from the Dacia to Nissan to Mercedes, makes its appearance on the Nissan Pulsar. By far the most balanced engine for Europe, but then comes the question of “Why not straight up buy a Megane  with the same 1.5 dCi diesel, which is cheaper and easier to find and buy?”.

Nissan Pulsar C13 Reliability Issues

• Constant issues with the air conditioning, and besides that, you should know that the Pulsar uses R1234yf type refrigrerant / freon, much like modern cars, and this type of freon costs about 5 times more than the classic R134A type freon so buckle up.
• Those very many safety systems also come with related electrical gremlins, so you will always see an check engine light lingering about, kind of like the VW Golf in essence.
• Rear visibility is so poor that Sofia Boutella could be sitting on the roof spilling a bucket of mud, and you wouldn’t have a clue.
• It’s a Nissan, meaning a Japanese car, and that translates into a very, very cheap interior. Yes, it’s cheaper than a Megane, but it’s not as comfortable either. Or maybe we Europeans are too much with the nose up in our buttocks that we can smell our own colon?
• Now comes the complementary moment about the CVT box, which is not the most reliable possible, but it is another very rare option on a car that is already rare.

Nissan Pulsar C13 Verdict

I think that the Nissan Pulsar is a spiritual brother to the Vauxhall Astra J. Two cars that do not have their own identity. If you want a hatchback like the Pulsar, then buy a Megane, and if you insist on a Nissan, then get a Nissan Qashqai, which costs about the same and has the same chassis. So, the Nissan Pulsar remains the kind of car you buy on a whim, because you got a good offer or a good price. And if you find it, it’s worth buying because it’s one of the most reliable modern cars you’ve never heard of.

What engines do I recommend? For petrol, obviously the exotic 1.6 Turbo and it’s 188 horsepower, but most likely you will go for the rather common 105 horsepower 1.5 diesel, which goes hand in hand with it’s mainstream hatchback concept which the Pulsar represents.

And, almost miraculously, it almost succeeded. The Kia Soul might not have been worthy of a top spot at a top table at Oktoberfest here in Europe, but in the USA it caused a sensation. And it all comes down to one word: marketing.

The Kia Soul AM was the same car in Europe, Korea, and America, with the only notable difference being that we had the 1.6 CRDi diesel, while Americans got the juicy but not so juicy engine because it was juicy in a literal sense, dripping of pistons and oil.

In North America, and especially in the USA they really went all in on the aggresive marketing and went for the youth who have never heard of Kia before. The Kia Soul AM was a true phenomenon at launch, with its arrival announced by Lady Gaga, Calvin Harris, Goldfish, Axwell, and even LMFAO with their Party Rock Anthem. Not to mention they applied the strategy Vauxhall would use in 2013 with the Vauxhall Adam, offering billions of possible combinations of features and colors, and a few hundred special editions. Essentially, the original Kia Soul was Hyundai/Kia’s first attempt to appeal to a younger audience. For a young 16-year-old girl, a Kia Soul is a very good car. And Americans had no issue buying it as a 16th birthday gift for their children, since a Kia Soul started at $13,995 in 2010, while the median household income in 2010 was $49,500 per year, and the top version with the 2.0 petrol engine and all the bells and whistles capped at $17,450. And we’re talking new, don’t even get me started on the used market.

And in Europe?

Maybe the Kia Soul AM didn’t catch on as well here as it did in the US, but then the second generation came to set things right. The first generation of the Kia Soul was a curiosity for us Europeans. It sat halfway between the Nissan Cube, which was too Japanese, and the Skoda Yeti, which was too European. We were in 2008, the point at which the Korean assault on Europe was just beginning. With the Kia Soul, the Hyundai i20 was also launched, targeting young people and thus capturing the European market from two directions. Reliable cars for the youth. However, in Europe, we don’t get our driver’s license at 16. And parents don’t gift us 14,000 pounds cars when we turn 18 and get our license. No, they ask themselves why do we need 7,000 pounds when 5,000 pounds are enough, so they think of giving us 4,000, but then again we can manage better with 3,000, so take these 2,000 pounds because otherwise, they might get angry and give you 1,000 euros, leaving you with 500 pounds for a budget.

Kia Soul AM Engines

Gasoline

• 1.6 MPI Gamma II G4FG and G4FD of 126, 130 and 140 horsepower – Apart from sounding like a diesel, this gasoline engine shared with the Hyundai i30 is quite decent for our needs. It may indeed be a bit slow on the highway in the USA, but in Romania, you don’t need more. Also, the 140 horsepower is the GDi direct-injection version, so that comes with oil consumption and an personal vendetta against LPG conversions.
• 2.0 Nu MPI G4NA and G4NC of 142 and 166 horsepower – Fortunately, the Kia Soul was not assembled in the Alablama plant so there’s no world class action lawsuit involved here, however the old Beta II engine comes with an optional 4 speed automatic which is sad, and the Nu variant that came after, came only with a manual transmission, which is even sadder. But not sadder than the moment when you call a ourangutan a “dumb animal” and then he replies by saying “you’re literally paying the goverment each month to stay out of prison”. Also, the 166 horsepower version is also a GDI engine, so no LPG and no oil if you don’t top up regularly.

Diesel

1.6 CRDi D4FB of 126 horsepower – If you go for the automatic version, you only need to worry about the particulate filter. If you go for the manual version, you’ll also need to care for the dual-mass flywheel and the clutch. In any case, even with the automatic the oil needs to be changed regularly at 4 years or 37,000 miles. And no, the petrol engine didn’t get an automatic transmission.

Kia Soul AM Reliability Issues

• The sound system is not the best, at least on the more standard versions. That is, if you care about the sound system. And if you want to change the amplifier, good luck.
• Rear visibility is far from the best because you have that tiny rear window and those thicc pillars so make sure to fit some parking sensors.
• Lack of a 6th gear on the manual gearbox and the fact that most automatics are 4 speed kind of take away the Soul’s ability to go fast on the highway and you will definatelly feel a need for speed…I mean one extra gear.

Kia Soul AM Verdict

But even without the US marketing, the Kia Soul DE was a real girl magnet. Like with the Suzuki Swift, I don’t understand the deal with girls and the Kia Soul. Generally, girls under 30 who wear their hair up, wear sunglasses indoors, have a keychain with 50 keys in one hand, and a phone and a coffee cup from their favorite Erewhon in the other. The Kia Soul AM seems to be the classic choice of normal girls with a minimal sense of fashion, but not fashion enough to constantly wear clothes two sizes too small and usually seen in an Evoque. But they’re neither a 300 pound muscle bound rug muncher, whom you’d imagine in a rusty Vauxhall Astra station wagon full of potatoes. Or an Subaru Outback, for the North American audience. 

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol power, the 1.6 MPI with 126 horsepower and for diesel, the 1.6 CRDi and it’s 126 horsepower. Be careful not to mix them up like a blind man mistaking a fish market with a gynaecologist’s office because they smell the same.

Kia Niro De. For the type of person who drove a Passat B4 in ’95 and/or a Skoda Octavia Tour back in 2005. They are 40-45 years old, have 2 kids, and need a car that does everything. It should have enough space in the front armrest for tissues and enough space in the rear armrest for the kids’ medicine. They road trip to a local monastery on weekends and drag along their kids willingly or not. The kids complain that they don’t want to go to the morning sermon, he argues with the spouse because they drove too slowly, and the trip took too long, but still don’t drive too fast because they have kids and you don’t know what dangers are there out on the roads. Saturday night, they return from the monastery and then he goes out with his quality drinking budies, belching after five beers while telling dirty jokes. Sunday morning, they’re a bit hungover, and by evening they’re terrified that Monday is coming, but deep down, they’re happy because going to work means to escape from the kids’ screams.

And it’s time to change the family car because 1) the family has grown, or 2) the Passat B4 failed its inspection, and they finally need to buy something newer.

Kia Niro – the Sunday afternoon visit to relatives you can’t stand but at least they have good drinks, and you have the chance to meet another guy who came just for the drinks, and you both get drunk together and get scolded by your wives on the way home because she has to drive out of necessity because you promised you wouldn’t drink BUT YOU COULDN’T RESIST. 

Kia Niro DE  is for the type of person looking for a family car that is spacious, economical, reliable, and decently priced. Essentially a larger Ioniq for those with a larger family. Because the Ioniq is more for taxi drivers, while the Niro is for the dedicated family guy. 

Kia Niro DE Engines

Hybrid

1.6 GDi Hybrid G4LE of 140 horsepower combined – The first hybrid from Hyundai and Kia was also the only internal combustion engine available for the Kia Niro. As I said, the Kia Niro is like a larger, more spacious Ioniq because they share the same drivetrain. A reliable hybrid engine, emotionless, and powerless. Like when you return from the hospital and need to recover. Just like you lose fluids in the hospital, this engine loses oil because it’s a direct injection engine. But it’s not an oil guzzling frat bro like VW or Honda, but it’s good to know it’s there.

Electric

Electric engine of 135 and 201 horsepower – Depending on the battery size, the range starts at a decent 180 miles and goes all the way up to 280 miles, with the US oficial EPA rating at 240 miles. This powertrain is borrowed from the electric Kona so the range is actually pretty large and in charge. Mind you however that the average lifespan of the batteries is 8-10 years, so the earliest models have their batteries on their way out so checking the battery’s life is mandatory prior to purchase. 

Kia Niro DE Reliability Issues

• The reverse gear starts the party because I don’t know what sound system they put in those speakers, but it’s like they called the entire squad of ultras. Which is a shame because the rest of the audio system in the car is quite bad because we’re talking about a budget Hyundai from 2015.
• You’d think that the middle ground between an SUV and a minivan has acres of interior space, but that can’t really be said about the boot space.

Kia Niro DE Verdict

The Kia Niro DE is exactly what you’re looking for if you want a family car, and that’s it. You have no other emotional criteria. It’s economical, is reliable, spacious, and reasonably priced. But that’s it. Kia Niro – the official car of the 8 to 5 job because you have an hour break INCLUDED IN THE CONTRACT BUT THAT MEANS I STILL HAVE TO STAY AT WORK FOR 9 HOURS BECAUSE IT’S NOT LIKE I CAN GO HOME OR ANYWHERE ELSE IN THAT HOUR, STILL HAVE TO STAY THERE.

Which engines do I recommend? Anyway, you only have one hybrid engine, and it’s the only engine you need. Because if you’re looking at this type of car, 105 horsepower is enough. Or 140 combined, but you’ll never really floor it hard enough to engage the electric motors and you’ll mostly potter about using the combustion engine’s 105 horsepower.

Dodge Journey is nicknamed in the USA as “Man Van” and since then that term has remained in my mind. Here in Europe you could say it’s an American Touran but it’s actually closer to the VW Golf because, realistically speaking, almost nobody bought the petrol engines because when you look at a minivan/family SUV and budget, a 3.5 V6 petrol engine with 235 horsepower will not be at the top of your list, possibly not even at the bottom of it. Maybe the 170 horsepower 2.4 World petrol engine will catch your eyes and money, but the rest definitely won’t. So you are left with a 2.0 diesel, bought under license from VW and used until its early retirement in 2011, when the Dodge Journey is retired by the Fiat Freemont, which is the same car but with Fiat written on it. In fact, in the US the Dodge Journey is still sold under the same name, only we got the Fiat because it’s a more familiar brand for us and you kind of know what you’re getting, unlike Dodge where most people know as much as I know about women or Nigel about quitting.

And yes, the Dodge Journey is more of a minivan than an SUV, even if it is larger than the Dodge Nitro, but it has a lower ground clearance than the 18 cm standard of SUVs at the time and it doesn’t even have AWD except for the 235 horsepower 3.5 V6 petrol. It’s just that it’s bigger and taller than the regular Touran and Mazda 5, so you can take it for an SUV, especially if going to the countryside is not your main activity or even an occasional one. Plus, I always say that most people don’t need a 4×4 because most people’s idea of ​​”off-road” in general boils down to walking in the field and passing through a puddle. At most a forest road. Which you can handle in a Ford Ka. But what can’t you do in a Ford Ka and can you do in a Dodge Journey? That’s right, you can create, deliver and raise a family with 2 children.

Dodge Journey Engines

Petrol

• 2.4 MPI World of 170 horsepower – The basic petrol engine and an engine with a long history even here in Europe and it is still in use today, you can find it including on the Jeep Renegade.
• 2.7 LH V6 of 175 horsepower – The engine is replaced every 100,000 km because water often infiltrates the oil, thanks to the water pump with paper blades…I mean plastic, which fails every time it starts at a traffic light.
• 3.5 V6 EGF 235 horsepower – The only engine with optional AWD traction, which is the same 2.7 V6 only bigger. Issues with coolant leaks, issues with the PCV valve that doesn’t let enough air in, and so the oil stays hot and hardens. That is why the oil must be changed every 5,000 km.
• 3.6 V6 Pentastar of 286 horsepower – The Pentastar engine practically replaced the old 3.5 and its dying family of engines completely and it is an engine capable of many, many miles because here in Europe it is rarer than the months when I still have money a day before pay day. Of course, it is prone to overheating, but overall it will work well. But not under the hood of the Dodge Journey, because no one bought it.

Diesel

2.0 TDI BKD and BMR of 140 horsepower – Dodge during this period turned to VW for engines and in the case of Journey (and Caliber) we have the same 2.0 TDI from the Golf V and Octavia II. THESE ARE NOT THE ENGINES WITH FAULTY INJECTORS, THOSE ARE ON THE PASSAT, A4 AND A6 AND THERE ARE OTHER CODES. It’s just that, unlike the Caliber, for the Journey they also bought the DSG automatic gearbox from VW, which is prone to kicking the flywheel in the nads, the clutch or the gearbox altogether. And the particle filter is made of dreams and hopes so it dies out quickly.

Dodge Journey Reliability Issues

• First of all, it is an American car sold in Europe, so the complementary moment must come about the quality of the interior. It’s a festival of masculinity and materials built by human hands, i.e. a sea of ​​gray and cheap and creaking plastic. But if you don’t mind this aspect, you have a double hamburger made served at a drive-through fast food.
• Being a Dodge / Chrysler, I would also look underneath for rust. If you don’t see anything, that’s fine, if you see something, then you decide if it’s worth buying or not.
• The rear brakes are not of the best quality and this includes the pads and the discs and the calipers.
• The Fiat sourced C635 manual gearbox has issues with the synchros failing, but it can be repaired relatively easily and cheaply, I talked in more detail in the Fiat Bravo review. Yes, these two cars share quite a few parts.
• Can’t walk by without mentioning the famous battery placement, for which the Dodge Journey is fairly infamous for. It will take you a few years to replace the battery, because it sits in front of the driver’s side front tire. Can’t really think of a better place to put the battery in.

Dodge Journey Verdict

The man van may not have made the greatest impression here in Europe, but it certainly gained fame / infamy in North America. Not the most reliable man van around but the north americans already know about it, unless they get the glorious 3.6 V6 Pentastar engine. But what about us, europeans? Well, a 2 litre diesel manual gearbox man van which looks like a SUV but it’s not and it’s also half priced and also slightly taller than the regular MPV? You bet your crusty ass and a crate of Mich Golden’s that it’s a decent man van which definatelly needs to be looked at.

What engines do I recommend? For petrol power in Europe, the World 2.4 engine with 170 horsepower is all the engine you need, but realistically you will go with the VW sourched, 140 horsepower 2.0 TDI. But really, the best engine to have is the 3.6 V6 Pentastar and it’s glorious 286 horsepower.

Around 2015, Mercedes transitioned from ML to GLE, thinking it was time for a change because the old names were falling behind the competition. The GLK became the GLC, as it’s the crossover version of the C-Class. The ML transformed into the GLE because it’s the SUV version of the E-Class. The GL became the GLS because it’s the SUV version of the S-Class. 

But let’s focus on the Mercedes GLE V167 because this was the car Mercedes needed to get back in the game. The old ML was a good formula that almost nobody wanted. The old ML was like the TV show “Who do you think you are?” – a decent and modest show that didn’t catch on with the public because the public didn’t want decency. So, “Who do you think you are?” took a backseat and Mercedes offered the excess that the public craved. It sold so well that the GLE and GLC brought Mercedes back into the spotlight after being somewhat lost in anonymity.

What’s new in the GLE compared to the old ML?

• The first major difference is the width. The Mercedes GLE V167 can be almost 20 cm wider than the old ML because width matters, making you the biggest elephant in the parking lot. Land Rover understood this, BMW understood this, and now it’s Mercedes’ turn. Sure, when driving on the highway, the impressive size isn’t necessarily felt, but try a B-road or any parking lot, to be honest. Or any semi-crowded city street. But if you want to be the biggest elephant on the road or anywhere else, the Mercedes GLE V167 is finally a viable option for you.
• There’s also a Coupe version because if you want people to know you have money and size isn’t enough, then the Coupe version is for you. You can’t let the X6 take all the fame and money from clients who you don’t ask what they do for a living, where they get their money from, or why they never care about leasing offers and buy 3-4 cars in cash at once.
• Moving past the opulence that Mercedes bet all their money on, we come to the everyday version. All versions come with 7 seats as standard, except for the PHEV ones. And while it might look like a BMW on the outside, underneath, the GLE remains very comfortable. It’s not a sports car; it’s a car that takes you from A to B in great comfort, even if the distance between A and B is as vast as the distance women keep from me. By the way, do you know what a woman is? Someone who covers her drink when she sees me.

Mercedes GLE V167 Engines

Petrol

• 2.0 Turbo M264 and M274 with 258, 333, and 381 horsepower – I don’t really understand why you’d buy a 2 litre petrol to carry around the 8 tons of the GLE plus the 3 tons of air you get when you buy a GLE, especially the Coupe. But the explanation is that when you spend 40-120,000 euros on a car, those 600-2500 euros in annual taxes are too much for you. The engine itself isn’t bad, but having a 2.0 turbocharged petrol engine haul the 15 tons of the GLE is like asking Graham Norton to carry Idris Elba on his back. Possible, but tough.
• 3.0 l-6 Turbo M256 with 367, 386, 435, 441, and 544 horsepower – Now we’re talking about something else, essentially vertical engines with American eights and German figures. The idea is that you have a classic turbo but also an electric compressor that supercharges the system, plus a lot of technology that I don’t have enough bandwidth to explain. The system itself is reliable, but when something goes wrong with the ISG system or the compressor, you might consider buying another GLE.
• 4.0 V8 Bi-Turbo M176 and M177 with 489, 517, 571, and 612 horsepower – If you don’t want to go full american when it comes to engine size but still want to remain in the top tier, then the “old” M176 and its successor, the M177, are what you need because they are reliable and deliver over 500 hp. You’ll need to shell out at least 100,000 euros for pounds, as that’s the starting price of the cheapest GLE on autotrader with this engine when I wrote this article.

Diesel:

• 2.0d OM654 with 245, 273, 320, and 337 horsepower – No. Like the 2.0 turbo gasoline engine, the OM654 diesel is decent in itself but not for the 23 tons of the GLE, plus the 2-3 tons of air it gives you. The last diesel Mohican from Mercedes is reliable but very complex and difficult to work on when it breaks down, even if it has acres on space under the bonnet of the GLE.
• 3.0d OM656 with 272, 330, and 371 horsepower – I personally think they should have sold only this engine for the GLE. It’s not as reliable as it used to be, but at least it’s the only engine that fits with this body style. Issues include the AdBlue system, oil pump, and it doesn’t cope well with city driving.

Mercedes GLE V167 Reliability Issues

• You’d think a 45-ton Mercedes would chew through brakes, suspension, and tires like Scruff McGruff takes a bite out of crime. And you’d be right. Special mention for the appetite for rear tires, where the average lifespan is 10-15,000 miles. With some ambition, you’ll change the tires twice a year.
• Noisy wipers and mirrors may or may not be an issue with the car in question, so do a test drive at higher speeds and test the wipers as well.
• Electrical issues and dashboard rattles are common in modern cars, but at least with the Mercedes GLE V167, you might get a model where the interior is more solid than Trailer Park Boys : Countdown to Liquor Day.

Mercedes GLE V167 Verdict

The Mercedes GLE V167 was and is the car Mercedes needed to relaunch in the opulence market and sell again. It’s as extravagant/offensive as an X6, but it remains a very comfortable car for crossing the Panamericana and arriving at your destination as refreshed as when you started. Just avoid parking lots or narrow roads in general.

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol power I recommend the 4.0 Turbo M177 with a million horsepower, so at least you know what you’re doing. For diesel, definitely the 3.0 CDI with 272 or 330 horsepower.

The old GLK was an unexpected success, even if Mercedes expected it. I viewed things through a lens of diverse optimism, not opposition, because otherwise, I wouldn’t have anything to say. Maybe its appearance was as non-conformist as Good Charlotte‘s looks, but like Good Charlotte, the Mercedes GLK knew what it was doing. It had an interior reminiscent of the E-Class but more practical, came with the 2.2 diesel engine that most GLK buyers realistically needed, and had both automatic and manual transmission options, being reasonably reliable. Despite its American squared look, sculpted like Henry Cavill’s jaw, the Mercedes GLK had it all.

However, only punk music is immune to the passage of time, and so the GLK needed a successor. Enter the Mercedes GLC, which appeared during a period of name changes within the Mercedes lineup. Essentially, the Mercedes GLC X253 is the SUV/crossover variant of the C-Class, similar to how the GLA is for the A-Class, the GLB for the B-Class, the GLE for the E-Class, the GLS for the S-Class, and so forth. Consequently, the GLC also comes in coupe and long wheelbase versions (GLC L), and there’s even an EQC electric version. Somewhere out there, there might be a GLC Cabriolet. Mercedes offers every possible variant for every need, as they say.

The Mercedes GLC X253 is slightly larger than the GLK and comes standard with the 9G-Tronic automatic transmission, while we still protest about 5G. The interior is taken directly from the C-Class, featuring a spacious trunk for its class and optional air suspension, which is worth the investment if available. It performs decently off-road, even though most people’s idea of off-road is a forest road or a muddy path.

Mercedes GLC X253 Engines

Gasoline

• 2.0 Turbo M270 and M274 with 184, 211, and 245 horsepower – The base engine for the GLC and the only non-sport petrol engine that you would realistically buy. It has no specific issues, possibly because it has 6 liters of oil in the system which is making it too oily to feel anything.
• 3.0 Twin-Turbo V6 M276 with 376 and 390 horsepower – The Mercedes GLC43 is for those who want speed but still find the annual roadtax tax too much to gift to the municipality. Be mindful of fuel quality and the timing chain tensioners; otherwise, there are no notable issues.
• 4.0 Twin-Turbo V8 M177 with 476 and 510 horsepower – If you don’t mind making an annual hefty road tax gift to the municipality, the Mercedes GLC 63 and GLC 63 S are for you. However, this engine, though reliable, doesn’t quite fit the GLC’s character, not even the GLC Coupe.

Diesel

• 2.0d OM654 with 161, 194, and 245 horsepower – Introduced exclusively with the facelift and hailed as their last diesel, the 2.0 OM654 is reliable but more complex than understanding the messages from that girl you like.
• 2.2d OM651 with 170 and 204 horsepower – The classic 2.2 diesel found in everything from the Sprinter to the S-Class, now nearing retirement under the GLC’s hood. The 170 hp version has one turbo, while the 204 hp version has two and is less reliable. A well-known engine that needs no introduction.
• 3.0d OM642 with 256 and 330 horsepower – While those 256 horsepower may not touch your soul like the great composer Janis Joplin’s songs dedicated to Mercedes, the 700 Nm torque surely will.

Hybrid

• 2.0 Turbo gasoline M274 hybrid with 195 and 320 horsepower – I have nothing to add about the hybrid engine since I’m not sure it’s worth the extra money over the 3.0 Twin-Turbo M276, even with tax exemptions. But if you find and buy it, there are no specific things to watch out for.
• 2.0 diesel PHEV OM654 with 302 horsepower – A hybrid powertrain installed for emission standards. I don’t quite understand the idea of a diesel hybrid, much like I don’t understand why I have to pay health contributions when taking medical leave, which is reimbursed from the same contribution. Additionally, the hybrid comes with a smaller fuel tank, which isn’t an issue for a petrol engine, theoretically used more in the city. But for a diesel?

Mercedes GLC X253 Reliability Issues

• If your car squeaks badly while turning and feels like the suspension will crack and break, with the wheel dancing like in “House of Pain – Jump Around” videos, you need to change the summer tires to all-season ones.
• The fuel cap is made of thin material and might break up easily, similar to how my date with Jaquarius ended in the friend zone.
• Be very careful with the key as it is expensive to replace. It’s recommended to disable keyless go since Mercedes is high on the list of stolen cars.
• The windshield is scrawny, so avoid rough roads.
• The interior is the same as the C-Class, so expect squeaky plastic everywhere.

Mercedes GLC X253 Verdict

The Mercedes GLC X253 is by far the most important and popular crossover offered by Mercedes, reflecting their interest and attention. It may not be as high-quality as the old GLK or other older Mercedes models, but such are the current times. However, it retains the GLK’s spirit: a premium, somewhat anonymous crossover/SUV that is luxurious, comfortable, well-executed, and delivers what you expect from a modern Mercedes. It has its issues, but so do we all.

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol, you will realistically buy the 2.0 Turbocharged engine in the 211 horsepower flavor. For diesel, the single turbo, 170 horsepower 2.2 is the best option.

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Even though it’s very possible I’m talking to myself now about the Kia Optima TF. Not because the Magentis it replaces was particularly popular. The Optima too was a very rare car here in Europe but phenomenally popular across the Ocean and soon became one of the worst cars over there.
But at least here, it managed the feat of cannibalizing together with another obscure model, namely the Hyundai i40, its sister car. So, we have two models from manufacturers who were just beginning to make their presence felt in Europe, thanks to the Kia Cee’d revolution and then followed by the Hyundai i30. We had the Tucson and Sportage for a while, but that’s about all we knew about Asian cars. And if you look more recently, you’ll see the Kia Stinger revolution that started in 2016 when it came to replace the Optima. So, we didn’t necessarily have bad cars, just cars launched at the wrong time.

Plus, you can feel the Magentis/Sonata aura in the Kia Optima TF.

It’s the classic Kia/Hyundai recipe – it’s a large, decent sedan, but that’s it. If you think the VW Jetta or Avensis are uninspiring as cars, wait until you see the Kia Optima 1.7 diesel (90% of the ads are for the 1.7 CRDi). But if reliability is all that matters to you, then the Kia Optima might be worth it, especially since they have very good prices on the used market because no one really lusted for them. Why aren’t we interested in cheap and honest cars? Not cheerful, honest.

Kia Optima TF Engines

Petrol

• 2.0 CVVT Nu and Theta II G4KD of 165 horsepower – Aside from sounding like a diesel, there’s nothing notable about this engine. Probably the fuel economy, but it’s a 2 litre petrol so you probably knew what you were getting into. Oh, and there’s nothing you can do about the noise aside from replacing the CVVT timing chain. 
• 2.0 Turbo Theta II T-GDI G4KH of 278 horsepower – Carbon deposits and soot on the intake manifold. Oil leaks. Plus, the crankshaft on US-built engines would often break. However, the engine is great and much more reliable after 2014, but unfortunately, this generation was retired a year later.
• 2.4 MPI Theta II G4KJ of 180, 194, and 204 horsepower – A star in the US, also present here. Catches fire, breaks its crankshaft, things like that. If you occasionally see news about Hyundai and Kia being sued because too many cars caught fire and how many customers complain about the aftermath of those fires, it’s usually about the Nu engine.

Diesel

1.7 CRDi D4FD of 136 horsepower – Famous for clutch and manual gearbox issues. “It's not a bug, it's a feature” is Hyundai’s explanation. And they decided to leave it at that. Otherwise, it returns great fuel economy and runs a lot without issues. Alternatively, you can go for a model with an automatic gearbox and you’ll avoid the clutch and gearbox issue and have an excellent engine for an average car.

Kia Optima TF Reliability Issues

• And since I mentioned the automatic gearbox, we have a classic torque converter gearbox. It’s not the most refined piece possible, but at least it’s reliable as long as you change the oil on time.
• The steering column is a weak point for Kia and Hyundai from this period, and the Optima is no exception to this rule.
• A particular issue for the Optima, however are the power window motors, which frequently fail.
• I've mentioned it already but I will do it again, the US petrol engines are a good idea as having 5 shots of Brain Damage and then picking a fight with the bouncer. 

Kia Optima TF Verdict

If I were to place it in a car category, I think the 3rd gen Optima would fit best between the Peugeot 508 and Citroen C5. Alternatives to the classic German sedans but without the reliability issues of German saloons. The kind of car you buy because you want something different. And I see nothing wrong with that. It’s just a pity it came at a totally inappropriate time; it should have waited 1-2 more years to ride on the reputation of the Hyundai i30 and Kia Cee’d.

What engines do I recommend? For petrol power it's definitely the 165 horsepower 2.0 MPI, and for diesel the 1.7 CRDi with 136 horsepower, but I would still specifically look for an automatic gearbox with it.

Dodge Avenger started the American offensive in Europe and again I have to write about the same car, because Dodge Avenger, Dodge Caliber, Jeep Compass, Jeep Patriot and Dodge Journey are the same car. In this order of body size. Same engines, same transmissions, roughly the same problems. But wait, the story doesn’t end here, because the whole group shares the platform with Mitsubishi Outlander, Peugeot 4007 and Citroen C-Crosser. And with the Mitsubishi Lancer. And with the Mitsubishi ASX. And the petrol engines are developed as a joint project between DaimlerChrysler, Hyundai/Kia and Mitsubishi and are called “World Engine” because they wanted to be universal engines and were quite close to this universal engine status. An idea executed better than “One Ford” and their 1.0 EcoBoost.

What do we have here?

A tube of lube, a rope and an open mind….this…Dodge Avenger. From the entire extended family, the Dodge Avenger is at the base of the tree and if you don’t want to read too much about the Dodge Avenger, then you must know that the Avenger is actually a poor man’s Passat and with that I can go home. Because in the real world the Avenger comes with a 2.0 diesel from VW, usually with a manual gearbox. Basically, a cheaper Passat with a different body. Which is not a bad idea, because that diesel is the reliable one, without the faulty injectors on the Passat. Basically, it’s a cheaper and bigger Jetta. And, just like in the case of Jetta, it doesn’t express anything to me in a special way, not even in a non-special way. It’s a car and that’s it. It has 4 doors and a boot, it has a 2 liter diesel engine and that’s about it. 4850mm of the car and that’s it. And this general boredom was so obvious that the facelift model was withdrawn from Europe and we no longer received the 2.2 diesel from Mercedes, like the rest of the Chrysler summer band.

Dodge Avenger Engines

Petrol

• 2.0 GEMA World of 158 horsepower – We start with the smallest and common sense engine, a 2 litre 4-cylinder that doesn’t impress anyone and that people probably didn’t flock to buy, but if you find one by mistake, possibly at the price good, worth buying it.
• 2.4 GEMA World of 170 horsepower – Because these two engines are old-fashioned engines that sacrifice performance and consumption in the name of reliability. Of course, it won’t run away and it won’t bring you to tears because of how impressed you will be by consumption, but you won’t stop by for service too soon either. Ask the people in the Mitsubishi community, because there you have the best chance of finding information about this engine. Their code name is 4B1.
• 2.7 V6 EER of 190 horsepower – If you want a portion of American burgers, this is the closest engine to that experience, because this is where the party ends, while in the Americans it just begins. They also have a 3.5 V6 that is not necessarily successful and they also have the legendary Pentastar 3.6 V6, used on serious stuff, from Chrysler 300c to Dodge Nitro and many American things you don’t know about. As for the 2.7 V6 EER, personally I will say hard pass. Serious issues with the timing chain that jumps just as I jump out of bed at night when I hear noises and think “Natalie Portman, is that you???”, and the engine gets clogged with oil sludge so I’ll say pass again.
• 3.5 V6 EGF of 250 horsepower – Another oil sludge unit with a timing belt spinning it around in-sync, but atleast it’s fine as long as you change the oil every 2nd engine start or 3,000 miles and not wait for the recommended 7,500 miles interval. Otherwise you’ll clog everything and eventually tear off the crankshaft.
• 3.6 V6 Pentastar of 283 horsepower – Sure, the legendary Pentastar doesn’t deliver performance nor fuel economy but it will deliver reliability. And on the 23 pounds weight of the compact Avenger, the Pentastar kicks ass. This is THE engine to buy if you’re looking for an bland, anonymous 4 door saloon and you think that the Corolla is too mainstream for you and you want something reliable from a Dodge-y manufacturer. 

Diesel

2.0 TDI EA188 of 140 horsepower  – The only relevant engine for the European Avenger really. We have the same 2.0 TDI used on the Golf, Octavia, Leon and others, so it’s an honest engine that doesn’t leave you alone. It has a double mass flywheel that wears out faster than you’d like and it doesn’t come to terms with walking around the city, just like Jake Paul doesn’t come to terms with the japanese court system. But all in all, it’s an stress free engine, just because it’s old and I recommend a careful check because literally anything can fail at this age and especially mileage.

Dodge Avenger Reliability Issues

• The 4-speed automatic transmission Ultradrive is reliable, but it is 4-speed and depends a lot on the quality transmission oil, so it only uses original ATF from Dodge. Don’t be afraid that it only has 4 steps, that’s how it is with Americans. Don’t be afraid of the miserable Ultradrive, the Avenger uses fairly reliable gearboxes. Later, the 6-speed PowerShift box with double clutch appears out of the woodwork, used here especially on Ford but which did not reach the European market. Hard pass on that one.
• The rear calipers seize but atleast you don’t have a massive no-replacement-for-displacement engine to say that a seized caliper can be considered dangerous. No, you only have 140-160 horsepower at your disposal so you’re safe.
• It’s not the most agile car in the bends because it’s an American car, but if you buy it for highway driving, you don’t need more really.
• It’s an American car, so the complementary moment must come when I talk about the cheap interior. But if you find it at a good price, does it really matter?

Dodge Avenger Verdict

Dodge Avenger is the ideal car for the kind of person who knows he wants a saloon but doesn’t know exactly what he wants and finds a cheaper car he doesn’t know anything about and chooses to buy it. He will not be enthusiastic about it but he will also not be disappointed. For him, the car is a tool that takes him from point A to point B. The kind of man who tells his friends that he sold his car because he is ashamed to say that he forgot where he parked it. Sure, the American Avenger is more intense, but the European one is just a bigger and cheaper Jetta. And there is nothing wrong with that. On the contrary, you get more for less. Because if you’re looking for a Jetta, you’re unlikely to care about the “quality of interior materials” and other nonsense.

What engines do I recommend? For petrol engines it’s definatelly the 3.6 V6 Pentastar, everywhere else the 2 litre World petrol is all the engine you need, but realistically speaking, here in Europe you will go for the 2 litre VW sourced diesel. Like any other 4 door diesel compact saloon on the market.

As I wrote in the GLC article, around 2015, Mercedes decided to revamp their SUV and crossover names based on the cars they were derived from. Thus, the GLK transformed into the GLC because it’s the crossover version of the C-Class, the GLA is the crossover version of the A-Class, the GLE is the crossover/SUV version of the E-Class, the GLS is the SUV version of the S-Class, and the GLB is based on the B-Class platform. It competes with the Qashqai and Sportage, and perhaps its most direct rival, the Land Rover Discovery Sport, in a sea of crossovers where the Discovery and GLB stand out.

Why buy a GLB over something else?

• It’s probably the most utility-focused Mercedes in the premium crossover lineup. It looks utilitarian, has small, efficient engines that are not very sporty, and the suspension is not sporty either. This wouldn’t be a bad thing if it didn’t start at 40,000 pounds new and about 24,000 pounds used. If you want a utilitarian vehicle, you don’t go for a premium brand. I’m a bit confused.
• However, it’s one of the few crossovers in its class that offers a 7-seater option. The only other one that comes to mind is the Discovery Sport, which costs about the same as the GLB and is much less reliable, especially from 2019 onwards, since the legendary 2.2 diesel with manual transmission was retired. But now I’m getting lost in thoughts about the Discovery Sport.
• The Mercedes GLB maintains its utilitarian character through simplicity. It offers one 2 litre diesel engine and two petrol engines, plus a hybrid option. It only comes with automatic transmissions—either 7-speed or 8-speed—and an optional 4×4 system. They’ve managed to keep the car’s weight very low (it weighs about the same as an Octavia II estate 4×4), even though it’s larger than the GLA and very close to the GLC in size, while offering 7 seats.

Mercedes GLB X247 Engines

Gasoline:

• 1.33 Turbo M282 Mild Hybrid with 136 and 163 horsepower – The M282 engine, also known as the 1.3 TCe from Renault, is widely used in the Renault-Nissan-Mercedes group, from the Duster to the Megane to the Arkana to the Mercedes GLB. Yes, it’s assisted by the Mild Hybrid system but it feels like it’s included mainly due to new hybridization and emission requirements. It has no specific issues but isn’t necessarily recommended for the GLB, especially if you plan to load it with 7 passengers and luggage.
• 2.0 Turbo M260 with 190, 224, and 306 horsepower – The pre-facelift versions up to 2023 manage on their own, and from 2023 onwards, they get two electric motors for a hybrid system. The power remains the same, but consumption decreases. This is important for the GLB, especially when you’re paying 50-60,000 pounds for a stretched B-Class. There’s also the 306 horsepower GLB35 AMG, which can keep up with a 300 horsepower 5 Series E60 535i.

Diesel:

2.0d OM654 with 115, 150, and 190 horsepower – Honestly, they should have sold the GLB only with this engine. Maybe not the 115 horsepower version, but the 150 and 190 horsepower versions are all you need for the GLB. It’s a modern engine, probably the last diesel developed by Mercedes, and it has no specific reliability issues. However, like the 2 litre petrol, it’s very complex and repairs can be costly.

Mercedes GLB X247 Reliability Issues

• The build quality can be questionable, but this applies to all modern cars really. However, you’d expect better from the GLB. Poor sound insulation at high speeds is a serious issue however for the GLB and unacceptable at this sort of money.
• The 7G-Tronic automatic transmission has proven reliable since it’s an older model, but the new 8-speed dual-clutch 8G-Tronic DCT is still too new to comment on. Why wasn’t the 9G-Tronic automatic offered? We’ll never know. 
• Yes, it comes with a 7-seater option but it’s more of a 5+2 setup, with the rear seats suitable for children or friends you don’t like much. The seats are fine for short trips, but not for vacations.

Mercedes GLB X247 Verdict

I’m not sure exactly for whom the Mercedes GLB X247 is aimed at, but it’s clear there’s a target audience. And why wouldn’t there be? It has a fuel efficient 2 litre diesel engine, an automatic transmission, acres of space, the ability to host 7 passengers or a lot of luggage, and it’s a Mercedes. Is there anything it can’t do? Apart from the price, I don’t have many objections.

Which engines do I recommend? The 2.0 diesel with either 150 or 190 horsepower, as the rest are honestly just gimmicks for the type of vehicle the GLB is presenting itself to be.

The Hyundai Elantra AD is the 6th generation globally, but in Europe, it’s only the third generation to be sold. The idea was quite simple – they took a Hyundai i30, added a boot and bam – a compact saloon. But it shouldn’t be too luxurious, or it would directly compete with the Hyundai i40. That’s why the Hyundai Elantra sold so well, and the i40 didn’t.

The Elantra AD was quite popular and a commercial success because it was simple, reliable, and – perhaps most importantly – cheap. The Hyundai Elantra AD follows the same formula, playing it safe. The basic idea is simple: a Hyundai Elantra AD started somewhere at 18,000 pounds, only a grand more than the cheapest Polo. Sure, I’m a btch ass for daring to compare a Hyundai to a VW, but the Polo fits in the cup holder of the Elantra, if the Elantra had cup holders.

What we have instead is the classic, undiluted recipe from the previous generation. We have a single engine, an aspirated petrol that doesn’t cause issues, doesn’t need much petrol to potter about, and certainly doesn’t run fast enough to challenge a Series 7. An automatic CVT transmission was added (probably the only Hyundai with a CVT at the moment) to discourage such antics. You get almost all the features you need, even from the Comfort trim, which is the base level. 

James May declared about the Dacia Sandero that it’s the kind of car you buy from the supermarket, like “hey, go to the store and get some bread, eggs, beer, oh, and don’t forget to grab a car.” Nope, the Dacia Sandero isn’t that car. The Hyundai Elantra AD is. Because with the Sandero, you need some options and can customize it, whereas with the Elantra, the only customizable thing is the color. Basically, you go to the Hyundai dealership and say you want a car, they ask “which one?”, you reply “green,” and they give you an Elantra and send you home. That’s the Hyundai Elantra.

Hyundai Elantra AD Engines

Petrol

• 1.4 Turbo Kappa II of 128 horsepower – Unfortunately the Elantra was a massive success in Europe but it didn’t do well in North America, and this engine was no exception. Arriving in 2017 to replace the old bag of bolts of the 2 litre Nu engine, this engine is fine in itself but it came only with the 7 speed automatic DCT gearbox, which was a plagued with constant clutch and flywheel failures. If only they would’ve sold an manual version.
• 1.6 MPI Gamma II and SmartStream of 123 horsepower – The engine…the only engine on the european Hyundai Elantra. It used to have 132 horsepower, but due to pollution norms, it now has only 123 horsepower to work with. But at least it’s Euro 6D. It has no specific issues, so you can ignore the haters who say it’s slow. One of the last naturally aspirated engines on the market, I’m surprised it’s still being made. I should mention the oil consumption because it’s a direct injection engine, but it’s nothing too alarming.
• 1.6 Turbo Gamma II of 201 horsepower – Now we’re talking. Reserved exclusively for the Elantra Sport and exclusively for North America (Canada didn’t get this turbocharged bodybuilder), this engine came with either the 7 speed dual clutch automatic which you should avoid, or the 6 speed manual. Sadly however it’s down on power for a sports model and it’s down on power when the turbo fails.
• 2.0 Nu MPI of 147 horsepower – Available only from 2015 to 2017 and good riddance it got ousted by the 1.4 Turbo, otherwise the class lawsuits would’ve kept coming.
• Diesel

1.6 CRDi U II of 136 horsepower – The only diesel available on the Elantra and this engine is the essence of “there”. Won’t impress you performance wise, fuel economy is decent, reliability is decent. The most average engine for an average car. For the 40 year old who doesn’t rush anywhere because “the destination won’t move, it’s still there”. Caution with the particle filter and EGR which clog if they’re constantly driven in the start/stop urban driving. 

Hyundai Elantra AD Reliability Issues

• You have everything you need but nothing more. You can’t complain about the features, but you won’t cry with joy when you see the interior or the cheap plastics either.
• As mentioned above, the CVT transmission is not the best automatic transmission possible, and I don’t understand why they put it on the Elantra. And the dual clutch 7DCT which came along doesn’t impress me either and neither should you. 
• The air conditioning is like an asthmatic occasionally coughing through the vents. Alternatively, you can roll down the window in summer.
• The suspension aims to give a sporty feel, which isn’t bad. If the Hyundai Elantra AD were a sports car and not a cheap sedan meant to get you from A to B.

Hyundai Elantra AD Verdict

I don’t know how much longer classic, old-fashioned cars with old technology will still be around. The Hyundai Elantra strongly reminds me of the Seat Exeo, another car built with tech from the past. Sure, you can’t add much extras to it, and maybe the engines doesn’t incite hooliganism, but if you want a reliable, new, and cheap car, the Hyundai Elantra might be the best solution for you. Soon available on the shelves of major electronics chains.

Which engines do I recommend? The 1.6 MPI with 123 HP is all you have, so you’ll have to make do. Not because it’s a bad engine, but because you have no other option.

I know, I’m a useful component of the vacuum cleaner and a functional illiterate for skipping the Elantra IV and jumping straight to the Hyundai Elantra MD like an average brit hops from pint to pint. But maybe I’m not that unbelievable, and maybe the Elantra IV wasn’t available in Europe. 

As a summary then, the Koreans emerged from the woodwork and realized they needed to make European cars if they wanted to sell anything in Europe. They started with the Kia Cee’d / Hyundai i30, their first 100% European-designed cars. Then came the Sportage / Hyundai ix35, and finally, they aimed to take on the compact saloon segment.

This created an issue for the Hyundai Elantra V because, in Europe’s used market an Elantra costs as much as a Jetta or an Octavia if you compare the manufacturing years. Hyundai’s catapult from the low-cost zone directly into the premium zone was as smart a move as thinking it’s a good idea to show your drunk friends you can fight two bouncers at once after drinking five shots of vodquilla.

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Hyundai Elantra MD Engines

Petrol

• 1.6 Gamma GDI of 132 horsepower – An antiquated engine but one that performs its duties honorably. It handles the body and your wallet well, being quite reliable with no known issues apart from it’s oil consumption because it’s an GDI engine but nothing too horror really to make you pass on it. It’s not the sportiest engine possible, but you can’t have everything in life. And it was the only engine available in Europe.
• 1.8 Nu MPI of 148 horsepower – The Nu engine on the other hand is the american crutch that broke Hyundai’s financial legs. Let’s just say that the words “quality control” haven’t reached the Alabama plant and the Nu engine will break it’s pistons and it’s not a matter of “if” but “when”.
• 2.0 Nu MPI of 176 horsepower – Available only on the Hyundai Elantra JK aka the Coupe version which was a brief love stint of 2013-2014. And for the regular saloon version, also with the 2013 facelift. But it’s still the piston breaking Nu engine so hard pass on it. Harder than passing on working on weekends.

Diesel

1.6 CRDi D4FB of 90 horsepower – The only diesel sold for the Elantra MD and it’s the sort of diesel engine which is “there”. An “there” kind of an engine for an “there” kind of car. No real issues with it, just that it’s a modern diesel which is choked by emission standards so don’t move it around town too much.

Hyundai Elantra MD Reliability Issues

• You only have one engine available, regardless of the country. Not two, not three. One. Still, if you don’t plan on driving all over the country and are more the type who needs a car for the school run and work commute, this might be all the engine you need. No matter which engine you pick. Except for the Nu engines.
• Like the Kia Cee’, the Elantra MD is as dependent on quality tires as I am on SwearNet in the evening when my pajamas flare up after five beers. Research thoroughly before buying tires.
• It’s a very low car, so you have to accept some things. The issue is more relevant in countries like Germany or Spain, not in the UK where roads are butter smooth.
• The past haunts us all. Similarly, the Elantra is haunted by its poor interior quality and the short list of features, even optional ones.
• The tire pressure monitoring sensors tend to go on strike every second tire rotation.
• Rust tends to form at the door wings and sills.
• The audio system won’t be impressing you any time soon and neither will the headlights, but if you don’t care about these things all that much then you will enjoy the simplicity of the car.

Hyundai Elantra MD Verdict

An excellent, reliable, and spacious car. But in this price range, it competes with premium cars, even though it’s not quite there yet. Sure, with an Elantra MD, you’re guaranteed reliability, and if that’s what you’re looking for, it’s near the top of the list. The question remains whether you’ll go with the Elantra or a Mitsubishi Lancer, another simple and reliable car.

Which engines do I recommend? Out of the plethora of engines, after long debates including myself, I chose the 1.6 MPI petrol engine. A simple, issues-free engine. It’s up to you to decide if it has enough power. As the saying goes, everyone believes in something; I believe I’ll have another round of beer.

The only real issue is that the european Dodge Caliber usually comes with front-wheel drive, unlike the Duster which comes with 4×4. Of course, the Dodge Caliber also has versions with 4×4 transmission, but there the real advantage is lost, namely the price. With 2000 pounds you can buy a decent Dodge Caliber in 2024, which does not have billions of miles under it’s rusty belt and which is from 2008-2009.

Is it worth 2000 pounds though?

I’m not convinced. The Dodge Caliber came as a follow-up to the Chrysler PT Loser, although these cars are as close as relatives when discussing heritage, but if that’s what Chrysler decided, it stays that way. So we have a classic recipe for American cars in Europe – a very cheap car inside, mechanically simple and with engines bought under license from local manufacturers.

We already know that Dodge and Chrysler have a history with the Italians from VM Motori for larger cars like Dodge Nitro or Jeep Liberty or Mercedes for the Grand Cherokee and Commander, but for smaller cars like Dodge Caliber or the Compass they turned to a smaller manufacturer and called VW and bought the famous 2.0 TDI PD from the first generation, famously used on the Golf, Octavia, Passat, Audi A4 and so on. It is curious that the predecessor Chrysler PT Loser used the 2.2 diesel engine from Mercedes, bought under license. Chrysler – in permanent contact with the feminine side in the sense that it can never decide.

So yea, the Dodge Caliber is rather the predecessor of the Duster than the successor of the PT Loser. And yes, the Dodge Caliber was among the last American cars sold in Europe, in 2012 the pool closed for good and the Caliber was among the last ones to turn off the light, so it has no successor and that’s how I thought about the Duster.

Both are quite reliable cars, cheap, practical and with reliable engines taken from others. They both have such cheap interiors that it reminds you of the dorm rooms. They are cars for family members who want something cheap and decent, without too much fuss because fuss costs money and you don’t exactly have money to give.

Dodge Caliber Engines

Petrol

• 1.8 World Engine of 148 horsepower – All Dodge Caliber gasoline engines are actually the same “World Engine” in various configurations. This is the smallest and was created especially for promotional brochures in Chrysler dealerships. “Dodge Caliber, with prices starting from ….”, just like it was with the 1.4 TSI on the Audi A4.
• 2.0 World Engine of 158 horsepower – We have 10 horses more than the basic engine, a few extra quid in tax, some extra equipment and the most important thing is that we also have available a CVT type automatic gearbox that you don’t want. Yes, it’s a Jatco aka Nissan CVT box, but the performance leaves much to be desired.
• 2.4 World Engine of 172 horsepower – Dodge Caliber R/T was the only one that had the option of 4×4 and an automatic transmission (4×4 came standard with automatic) so good luck finding one. And to end the story here, this engine was built together with Mitsubishi and Hyundai and is the same engine that you find on the Chevrolet Captiva, Mitsubishi Outlander, Hyundai Santa Fe and many others. It’s reliable, but it doesn’t really punch and the fuel economy doesn’t impress you, but at least it gets along quite well with LPG conversions.
• 2.4 World Engine Turbo of 285 horsepower – Reserved for the Dodge Caliber SRT-4 and mainly for USA, this engine made a splash on the Dodge Neon and is one of the best small performance engines built by Americans in recent history. But Dodge Caliber makes you want to do sports like Olivia Newton John. Sure, the thought is there, but it won’t make me go physical.

Diesel

2.0 TDI of 140 and 170 of horsepower – As I said above, we have two engines borrowed from VW. The first is the 140 horsepower one that does NOT have DPF and was used on Golf and Octavia (code name BKD), and the 170 horsepower one has DPF and was used on Audi A4 B7 and Passat B6 (code name BMR) . I think that the 2.0 TDI on the Caliber is the only Euro 4 without DPF in all the cars where it was installed, from the Passat to the Outlander. It is possible that the Jeep Patriot 2.0 diesel is an exception, but I am not sure. As general issues, these engines have the flywheel knocks and occasionally the injectors fails. But overall they are quite reliable.

Dodge Caliber Reliability Issues

• This is a common issue in the US but I will mention it here as well, namely the CVT automatic box which has a limited life. We Europeans only have the automatic on the 4×4 versions and those are very rare, but it is important to mention.
• The front suspension is made of chewing gum, which was chewed upon, re-chewed and spat directly on the car. The stars are the shocks, bushings and anti-roll bars.
• Dodge Caliber has an appetite for batteries and alternators just as Jeff Sokol has an appetite for pizza. Went too far on this one, isn’t it?
• There are some nasty cases where the chassis rusts, also in the USA. But it’s good to check for rust here too, because if no one did it beforehand, at least you do it.
• It’s an American car, so the interiors are exactly as you would expect from an American car. A lot of plastic, a lot of gray. But at least you have the shifter sitting high up on the dashboard, like on vans.

Dodge Caliber Verdict

It’s a cheap car, not very comfortable, forgettable, decently reliable. Basically, a proto Duster. Is it worth buying one instead? Apart from the chassis rust, you don’t have much to raise your pulse from the Dodge Caliber. However, it won’t be the last word in terms of luxury and comfort, so it’s probably worth it, especially when you look at the prices it’s asking for. You just have to see if you can come to terms with an American car.

What engines do I recommend? For petrol engine any World engine is fine, and my personal pick would be the 158 horsepower 2 litre version for tax and insurance reasons, although most of the cars sold in Europe came with the non-DPF, Euro 4, 140 horsepower, VW-sourced 2.0 TDI engine.

Launched around 2000, the Hyundai Elantra XD was the car that gave us the image of Hyundai we perceive today, alongside the Hyundai Accident… I mean, Accent. The Elantra was intended to be the premium car from a manufacturer known for vehicles costing just a bit more than a washing machine and equipped similarly, with the acceleration of a washing machine. Trying to make a premium car while selling microwaves on wheels is like being in an African village with shoes made from cans. You’d be the most impressive.

However, the Hyundai Elantra XD stood out for its low-cost ambitions and legendary reliability. When I say legendary, I mean it operates on the principle of “it doesn’t break down because there’s nothing to break down.” It had agricultural engines borrowed from the UTB 650, interiors grayer than the country’s economy, but at least there were some buttons to catch your eye and, hopefully for the dealers, your money.

Nevertheless, the Elantra came with the first Korean wave that put Hyundai on Europe’s map. Built on a common platform with the Hyundai Tucson, Kia Sportage, and Hyundai Coupe / Tiburon, this sedan is still on roads even in 2024. Not too many around, but still. 

Elantra or Dacia Sandero?

Obviously, when you’re in this budget range, you must consider the elephant in the room. Or rather, the eastern european in the room in the case of the Sandero. Both are cheap to buy and run. The Elantra comes with slightly more features, while the Sandero has higher ground clearance and smaller engines. You might laugh at this argument and the fact that the Elantra starts at 1600 cc, while the Sandero came with a tarmac-tearing 1.4 engine, but when you’re in this price range, every penny counts. Otherwise, it’s hard to believe that the Hyundai Elantra XD would be an aspirational car. It’s hard to believe there’s someone saying, “Ah, I wish I had a 2001 Elantra.”

Hyundai Elantra XD Engines

Petrol

• 1.6 Alpha II and Beta G4GR and G4ED of 107 horsepower – The smallest, weakest, and least pretentious engine in the range. It comes from the same series as the other petrol engines, so we’ll discuss common issues later. Anyway, no one will buy this Norton Graham engine trying to carry an Henrik Sebok body.
• 1.8 Beta II G4GB of 132 horsepower – The middle child of a top car from a low-end manufacturer. Like the A6 C5, it’s more expensive than the 1.6 but weaker than the 2.0. Either go cheap or go sporty. In a 2001 Elantra.
• 2.0 Beta II G4GC of 140 horsepower – An antique that lasted until 2010 on the Tucson and Sportage, this engine made waves on the Hyundai Tiburon. But on the Elantra nobody bought it. 

Diesel

2.0 CRDi ” D ” Family D4EA of 113 horsepower – The same Euro 3 antique found on the Tucson, Sportage, and Santa Fe. A robust, slow engine with occasional camshaft sensor issues. At least it comes with a single-mass flywheel, making maintenance cheap enough to afford even a night out once a month. Granted, a night as in drinking on a park bench, but it’s a night out nonetheless.

Hyundai Elantra XD Reliability Issues

• All petrol engines are essentially the Beta engine in various flavours. This means common issues and a noise worthy of a diesel engine with an irregular idle. At least it’s a robust, naturally aspirated petrol engine that doesn’t fail because there’s nothing to fail. And that famous knock is from the VVT timing chain which needs to be replaced every 60,000 miles / 100,000 km. 
• The interiors are stolen from the Bullring market, from the back stalls. But who cares if a button or glove compartment occasionally falls off?
• It’s a fairly rare car these days, so parts will be harder to find than a minimum-wage worker’s initiative.

Hyundai Elantra XD Verdict

If you don’t care about cars and want a cheap sedan to transport your butt from place to place, get a Sandero. Or a Hyundai Accent. But if you want a sedan that sits halfway between incredibly cheap and almost premium, then the Hyundai Elantra XD is a good choice to consider. It might not be the best car of the 2000s, but at least it paved the way for other great cars that followed, and for that—Hyundai Elantra III, respect!

What engines do I recommend? The 2.0 petrol with an LPG system is an excellent choice for those who want a semi-low-cost-semi-premium-semi-barge-semi-sports car. For the rest, I recommend the 2.0 CRDi with 113 horsepower.

If the BMW E90 transitioned from the “Ultimate Driving Machine” to “Efficient Dynamics,” the Mini Cooper R56 transitioned from simplicity to complexity. If the Mini Cooper R53 was and still is a simple and damn fun car, the Mini Cooper R56 has already tried to enter the premium zone and forget its roots. The only reason this big car is relevant today is that it strikingly resembles the previous model, and you have to be a Mini enthusiast to distinguish them. Otherwise, this shameful episode would have been swept under the rug.

What’s new with the second generation Mini Cooper?

With a 6-speed manual gearbox by Getrag, which can now be set to “Sport” or “Comfort” modes. Unfortunately, they couldn’t install the “Reliable” mode.

The intercooler has been mounted in front of the engine, and the battery has been placed next to the engine. This means that now you have a spare tire, but the air vent on the hood remains purely aesthetic.

Increased dimensions that raise the first alarm sign that the slim and tiny Mini is no longer so Mini. From the Mini Cooper R56, the fattening regime begins, and the Mini slowly turns into Maxi. Sort of like Axl Rose, who had a meteoric career in the ’80s and is now just a bloated mess with debts at the golden arches. And if we’re talking about dimensions and relaxation, the Mini Cooper R56 is much stiffer and more geared towards comfort than its predecessor.

The Mini Cooper R56 is the one that established the wrong reputation for bad cars. Yes, the R56 generation had serious reliability issues, but the rest of the Mini range is actually decent. Because of one black sheep, the entire flock must suffer.

Mini Cooper R56 Engines

Petrol

• 1.4 “Prince” of 90 horsepower – The little prince is a French-origin engine. Coming in a 1.4-liter version, it doesn’t tear up the asphalt or grip. The natural habitat of this engine is the repair shop. About that, we’ll find out in the general issues section.
• 1.6 “Prince” of 120 horsepower – The same little prince, increased to 1596 cubic centimeters and 120 horsepower. Reliability however wasn’t increased.
• 1.6 turbocharged of 181 horsepower – The same 1.6 Prince that received a turbocharger and 60 more horsepower. I would have preferred to receive reliability instead of a turbo, but now you have the possibility to reach the repair shop faster.

Diesel

• 1.6 TDCi of 109 horsepower – We’ve talked about this engine in the reviews about the Ford Focus II and Peugeot 308, and on the Mini Cooper R56, the story sounds the same. A turbo with lubrication issues that fails down every 100 meters, a faulty filter that ruins the turbo, and if you don’t replace it you’ll replace the turbo many times and in vain. There are also serious issues with injectors. At least you can boast about low fuel consumption, even though most of the time you’re on the roadside, on a platform, or on an elevator.
• 2.0d N47 of 143 horsepower – Essentially the engine from the E90 320d and E60 520d, the N47 engine is notorious for issues with the timing chain tensioner and especially for the timing chain located behind the engine. In other words, if you want to change the timing chain, you have to remove the entire engine. You’ll sing “Oh, my life” while reading the repair estimate. That is, if you can read through the tears.

Mini Cooper R56 Reliability Issues

• The petrol engines branded Peugeot and affectionately named “Prince” have serious issues with the timing chain. Just google “Mini cooper prince engine,” and you can marvel at the incompetence of the garlic bread eaters. There are reported cases where the timing chain jumped at only 20,000 km. This is by far the most famous issue of the Mini Cooper R56 and affects all petrol engines.
• The Getrag gearbox returns to the spotlight due to the issues it suffers from. Like with British Leyland products, you never know what gear you’re in.
• The high-pressure fuel pump is a common issue for all models, especially affecting petrol engines. Sometimes the high-pressure pump takes the oil pump with it because you have a BMW, and you can afford to pay, endlessly.
• For diesel models, if the car is not used constantly the engine starts to rust inside, and the first symptom appears at the camshaft sensor. Although, why would you buy a Mini Cooper diesel?
• Like the previous generation of Mini, the Mini Cooper R56 is a very low car that should only be driven on asphalt. Especially targeted is the catalytic converter, which will go grazing, take some grass in, heat up, and send you straight to the repair shop.
• The windshield still sits so straight that it looks like it’s been visited by Captain Burcea. No one escapes from the windshield of a Mini Cooper R56, whether we’re talking about stones, insects, pedestrians, or other things you normally avoid with a car with a slanted windshield.

Mini Cooper R56 Verdict

Do you want to buy a Mini to have fun with and drive on the streets of the homeland? Do you want to go to the service rarely? Then get a Mini from the previous generation. The Mini Cooper R56 has too many issues. I simply cannot recommend it. The previous generation, on the other hand, looks the same, has the same interior, and is much more reliable and fun.

What engine do I recommend for the Mini Cooper R56? I have nothing to recommend. It’s like having to recommend the easiest form of pain. 

The Suzuki SX4 JY is related to the original Suzuki SX4 in the same way the author of this literary calamity is related to Sofia Boutella. It’s not, but he wishes it were.

The first SX4 was an experiment thrown together… well, a collaboration with Fiat. Suzuki brought the 4×4 system, Fiat brought the engines and design, and thus the Fiat Sedici emerged around 2005. This small 4×4 vehicle with reasonable running costs took the world by storm, leading Suzuki to release their own version a year later. This was mainly because Fiat was a stronger name in Europe, while Suzuki had a stronger name outside Europe.

But the love story eventually ended, just as Sofia Boutella parted ways with her colleagues from Star Trek. The Fiat Sedici was retired, and Fiat decided to continue expanding the Fiat 500 line, bringing in the Fiat 500x to replace it and then announcing a series of new models like the Fiat 500 Van, Fiat 500 Tanker, Fiat 500 Septic Tank, Fiat 500 Bus, and so on. Suzuki, on the other hand, released the S-Cross but thought we were familiar with the SX4 name, hence the Suzuki SX4 S Cross.

The engines, however, are roughly the same as the previous generation, with some new turbo petrol engines added. But no one cares anyway because all the 50-year-old family men will go for the Fiat sourced 1.6 diesel. Seriously, I’ve never seen a young person physically satisfied thinking about a Suzuki SX4 JY. I haven’t heard of anyone under 50 aspiring to a Suzuki SX4 S Cross. Maybe because it’s too new, and we at our age of 25 still dream of a Golf IV because if he who mixed vodka with beer in high school, later in life will mix water with cement.

Suzuki SX4 JY Engines

Petrol

• 1.0 Turbo K10C of 111 horsepower – Much too small for the Vitara and clearly too underpowered for the Suzuki SX4. It was decent on the Swift but was early retired for economic-religious reasons, and rightly so.
• 1.4 Turbo K14C of 129 and 140 horsepower – Suzuki had to choose between the 1.0 Turbo and the 1.4 Turbo to meet emission standards efficiently. Naturally, they went with the 1.4, which is much more powerful and can be installed on more than just the umbrella from the commercial where a woman drops her vibrator from her purse, and an old lady picks it up and calls after her, “Miss, miss, you dropped your umbrella!” No reliability issues so far.
• 1.5 MPI M15A of 99 horsepower – This is Indonesia exclusive because in Indonesia they punish engines larger than 1,500 cc so Suzuki decided to carry over the old M15A from the previous SX4. A fabulos engine if reliability and running costs are what you’re after in a car. Not much punch, but not much in running costs either.
• 1.5 Turbo MHEV K15C of 129 horsepower – This engine was India exclusive on the Suzuki SX4 JY because Maruti Suzuki is one of the heavy hitters in India and this hybrid petrol was the one to spearhead the new SX4 S Cross. Not much power though, even though it is reliable.
• 1.6 M16A of 120 horsepower – The ancient M16A, dating back to 1430, takes its last breath under the bonnet of the Suzuki SX4 JY. By far the most reliable engine on the S-Cross, but it was already a flip phone in a smartphone world. It was time to retire it. But if you want something simple, not very economical, but very reliable, this is the engine you want.

Diesel

• 1.3 DDiS D13A of 90 horsepower – Another India exclusive, the Maruti Suzuki SX4 1.3 DDiS is cheaper to run than actual running. The legendary 1.3 diesel from Fiat has proven it’s reliability and fuel economy, even though having this engine to carry around the SX4 is like having a glass of water carry you through a night at the pub where you had 15 pints. 
• 1.6 DDiS D16A of 120 horsepower – Essentially the same 1.6 DDiS of Fiat origin found in the Tipo, Doblo, and other work vehicles. I still think this engine is like potato soup. Like going fishing. Like a beer with friends. It does its job decently, without issues but also without enthusiasm. Watch out for the particle filter and the dual-mass flywheel, which needs to be kept farther from the city than us brits keep away from a dentist or Big Shaq from slow mathematics.

Suzuki SX4 JY Reliability Issues

• I’ll start with the main issue: the paintwork. No, it doesn’t rust like a VW or like a frat bruh drinking a non-alcoholic beverage for the first time after years of shady, unlabeled drinks bought from even shadier people with names too unfamiliar to pronounce. No, the issue is the paint is thinner than my wallet, so it chips away at the slightest breeze.
• You have three types of automatic gearboxes. Up until 2015, there was a CVT gearbox for the petrol engines – which no one repairs, from 2015 to 2016 there was a dual-clutch gearbox that didn’t impress anyone in terms of reliability, and from 2016 onwards, there’s a classic torque converter. By far the best and most reliable automatic gearbox on the Suzuki SX4 JY S-Cross, and if it had two more names, it would already be of Mexican origin.
• It’s a Suzuki, so the interior material quality is as low as my expectations when I look at YouTube Trending.
• If you think I have a low opinion of the Suzuki SX4 JY interior and its lack of features, wait until you hear what I think of the bootspace. I don’t understand how such a big car can have such a laughable boot. It’s like giving Dwayne Johnson a thong to wear because that’s all the budget allows.

Suzuki SX4 JY Verdict

The Suzuki SX4 S-Cross was intended to be an excellent car for young families who want a simple, reliable, but new car. But here, things turned out a bit differently. A new Suzuki SX4 S-Cross costs around 16,000 pounds, which in Europe is almost okay for a young couple. But here, only those aged 50+ who want a new, sturdy car to keep until it falls apart can afford this kind of money for this kind of car. And so, a situation was created where young people can’t even buy this car used because those who bought it new will keep it until they grow old. Which isn’t necessarily bad. It’s a good car for the older people, but far too expensive and boring for the youth. But if you want a relatively cheap car you can always rely on, which won’t kick you in the financial balls, this potato soup on wheels could be a good choice for you. Maybe.

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol, I recommend the 1.4 Turbo with 140 horsepower , but the 1.6 naturally aspirated with 120 horsepower is also fine. And for diesel, you’ll never find out the answer.

If you can’t fit into a Suzuki Ignis, then the Suzuki SX4 GY is probably worth your money. In fact, I could say that the Suzuki SX4 GY is like a bigger Ignis, and with that, I could draw the curtain and go for a beer.

Or not. Launched in 2006 as an experiment between Suzuki and Fiat, the Suzuki SX4 came first as the Fiat Sedici. Basically, the Italians at Fiat didn’t have an SUV at the time and wanted something bigger than a Panda. They called Giorgetto Giugiaro from Italdesign Giugiaro (the designer of the original Golf) for the design part and then contacted Suzuki for the 4×4 system because they were 1. Japanese 2. Already experienced in the 4×4 area and 3. Suzuki was not a very strong brand in Europe and probably wanted some publicity on Fiat’s back.

However, the project, like the Almost Cars septic tank, derailed, and the Fiat Sedici was so successful in Europe that Suzuki decided to release their own version: the Suzuki SX4, which then became a permanent fixture in the Suzuki family, unlike the Fiat Sedici, which was a one-hit wonder: It came, it sang, it gathered fans, and suddenly disappeared.

For the Suzuki SX4 GY, the situation quickly reversed. While Fiat is much more popular in Europe and parts of Asia, in America, Africa, and Asia, the Suzuki brand is more well-known than even Doug‘s voice. By the way, fabulous auto channel on YouTube. Highly recommend!

Suzuki SX4 GY Engines

Gasoline

• 1.5 MPI M15A of 99 horsepower – The base engine for the first SX4, this engine is part of Suzuki’s M family and is the smallest and not very popular. You’d rather find it on the Swift or Ignis, but for the SX4, it’s like the best engine for “my first car”. Decently reliable, but not for the highway speeds. Great for beginners tho.
• 1.6 MPI M16A of 107 and 120 horsepower – Really cool on the Suzuki Swift Sport, but for the SX4 the M16A is just a work colleague with no relation, aspiration, or perspiration for the Suzuki SX4 GY. Like a potato soup, the M16A gasoline engine is a simple engine that does its job and nothing more when tasked with moving the SX4’s body around. Sometimes it leaks oil from the oil filter, but that’s about it. All the engine you’ll ever need. 
• 1.8 MPI M18A of 130 horsepower – This one was available only in China and only from 2009 to 2012, but it’s good to know that you have this option. Just a stretched M16A so nothing particular to worry about. 
• 2.0 MPI JA201 of 143 and 150 horsepower – Found more often on the Grand Vitara, and it’s better left there. Constant issues with coil packs and timing chain tensioners make this engine a choice to avoid more than unskilled labor on road works.

Diesel

• 1.6 DDiS DV6ATED4 of 90 horsepower – The mechanical failure known as the 1.6 HDi on Peugeot and the 1.6 TDCi on Ford also plagues the Suzuki SX4 GY as the 1.6 DDiS. We’ve extensively discussed about this piece of trash, having injector issues and an oil filters that doesn’t allow the turbo to cool down, so you end up changing turbos like Deauxma’s videos changed hands.
• 1.9 DDiS D91A of 120 horsepower – Known as the 1.9 JTD in the Fiat group and 1.9 CDTi in the Vauxhall group, this engine was also installed on the Vauxhall Vectra C, Fiat Croma and Alfa Romeo 159. A village bicycle of the automotive world, and a reliable one at that. Recommend. As with any Fiat diesel and beyond, it’s mandatory to replace the water pump also when replacing the timing belt.
• 2.0 DDiS D20A of 136 horsepower – This is not the engine from the Vauxhall Insignia. This is not the engine from the Vauxhall Insignia. This is not the engine from the Vauxhall Insignia. THIS IS NOT THE ENGINE FROM THE Vauxhall INSIGNIA. The 2.0 diesel engine on the Insignia was an evolution of the 1.9 CDTi engine but developed by Americans at GM. This 2.0 DDiS is Fiat’s 2.0 diesel, an evolution of the 1.9 engine but developed by Fiat.

Suzuki SX4 I Reliability issues

• Rust is a frequent issue with Suzuki, especially with the 4×4 models, so check the car thoroughly for rust underneath.
• The diesel engines come with a package that will financially kick you in the nuts and leave you crying in a pool of your own fluids, not just tears. You have a particle filter, a dual-mass flywheel, and an EGR valve, all of which can fail and/or clog if the car is often driven in the city. And they will fail and/or clog.
• Yes, sure, all versions come with steering wheel controls and manual air conditioning, but that’s about it. The plastics are Suzuki-standard, the quality is worthy of Wish and Temu, and the lack of features make the Suzuki SX4 GY a car for those who want a sturdy, budget workhorse.
• If the Fiat Sedici came straight in the 4×4 flavor, the Suzuki SX4 came with front-wheel drive, so most models are 4×2. If that matters to you, and it should. Buying an SX4 or a Duster with front-wheel drive is like having a bodybuilder who can lift a 50 kg dumbbell but can’t lift a 15-liter water canister.

Suzuki SX4 GY Verdict

You have engines from Fiat, Suzuki, and Ford. You have a 4×4 system from Suzuki, responsible for the Ignis and Jimny. It’s easy to see why the SX4 quickly became a success in Europe. You have small, reliable (not the 1.6 DDiS), economical engines, a decent 4×4 system, all in 2006. We’re a few years away from the Nissan Qashqai, and it shows. There has always been a market for small family SUVs, and the Suzuki SX4 caught the trend well. You just need to get past the dorm room-level features and ignore that wheeled tent look.

Which engines do I recommend? For gasoline, I definitely recommend the 1.6 MPI with 120 HP because it’s Euro 5, and for diesel, the 2.0 DDiS with 136 HP, with an honorable mention for the 1.9 DDiS with 120 HP.

Launched by BMW after selling the Rover company in 2000, the Mini Cooper R53 immediately became a success among all fashion enthusiasts and those fond of everything new. If you see a Mini Cooper R53 on the street, most likely it’s driven either by a lady with sunglasses or by a man so fashionable that he makes Graham Norton look like the bum who is burning cardboard under a bridge in winter and dressing in whatever he found in dumpsters. Anyway, whether we’re talking about a lady or a gentleman, both have appointments at the beauty salon and need to get there as quickly as possible. There are very few cars that inspire more the idea of fashion and with a criteria for purchase rather if it matches the handbag, not if it’s a good car.

Is the Mini Cooper a good car?

In the base version, the Mini Cooper R53 is not a good car. The more options you start adding tho, the more things become interesting, and by the time you reached John Cooper Works you already had heavily customized cars. In fact, that was the other charm of the Mini Cooper: you had so many customization and tuning options that it was very difficult to find two identical Mini Coopers. Whether we’re talking about aftermarket parts offered by BMW or tuning companies, the possibilities for customization and tuning were like exotic citizens: countless. But a basic Mini Cooper? No, it’s not a good car in any way. Like the Dacia Sandero, the basic version came without air conditioning. Thus, just like with the Dacia Sandero, when you call an ad for a Mini Cooper R53 for sale, you have to ask the owner if it has power steering or climate control. 

Mini Cooper R53 Engines

Petrol

• 1.4 TriTec of 75 horsepower – An American-origin engine, this engine propels the car as if itwas an asthmatic under the hood coughing through a straw. That’s how the “1.4 tears up the asphalt” petrol car moves.
• 1.6 TriTec of 90 and 115 horsepower – The most balanced engine on the Mini Cooper R53, the naturally aspirated 1.6-liter petrol engine offers decent performance at a fair price. Slightly anemic but reliable, this engine best captures the simplistic character of the original Mini.
• 1.6 supercharged of 160 horsepower – The same 1.6 Tritec but now supercharged. Found in the “S” version, this engine propels the car to the next level but also propels the price into another category. I would recommend it if it weren’t so rare. Oh yes, due to the supercharging system, the battery was moved to the back, instead of the spare tire. The spare tire wasn’t moved anywhere, it was simply removed.

Diesel

1.4 1ND-TV of 67 and 87 horsepower – A tiny diesel borrowed from the Toyota Yaris and which is insufficient for the Mini Cooper R53. It’s neither sporty, nor economical, nor as reliable as you would expect from Toyota. If you want a Mini Cooper R53 and also want a diesel engine, I can recommend you to put the fork in the socket. Taking a Mini Cooper diesel is like going to harvest dressed in Tommy Hilfiger.

Mini Cooper R53 Reliability Issues

• The manual gearbox for models up to 2004 is a Rover sourced Midlands unit. If the gears were made of goat cheese, the gearbox would have lasted longer. Like with the Dacia Sandero, you never know what gear you’re in or how long the gearbox will last. From 2004 onwards however a BMW sourced Getrag gearbox was used. As for the automatic gearbox, it’s CVT type and is as good as when you eat watermelon, drink beer, and start doing jumping jacks.
• The power steering pump is another weak point of the Mini Cooper R53. The pump breaks, and you’ll have to drive without power steering, like with the Dacia Sandero.
• The ABS and ASC modules are another electronic part that preferred to leave rather than stay in a Mini Cooper R53 and thus create constant issues.
• The windshield is almost straight up and in this way no one escapes, whether we’re talking about stones or flies. I don’t need to say that the windshield cracks much more often than in normal cars, with a more normal slanted windshield.
• The catalytic converter is placed so low that if you drive on anything other than asphalt, you’ll have serious issues. In fact, the Mini Cooper R53 is lower than the morals of a college graduate looking for their first job, so it’s recommended to use the car only on asphalt and stay away from grass, soil, water, or leaves.

Mini Cooper R53 Verdict

Let’s remember the similarities between Mini Cooper and the Dacia Sandero:

• Both were the first car of a classic brand revived by a major manufacturer.
• Both have two petrol engines and one diesel.
• Both come without air conditioning in the basic version.
• Both can function without power steering.
• Both were an instant success on the European market.
• Both are very cheap on the used market.

Why buy a Mini Cooper R53 instead of a Dacia Sandero?

Because a Mini Cooper is much sportier and has a much lower ground clearance than the unstable Sandero. Plus, the customization and tuning options are much more diverse. And because the Mini Cooper is a classic car that inspires fashion, it’s an accessory that will make you feel good behind the wheel and is a car with which you can happily present yourself at any location or event. Because, although these two cars are so similar, they are still so different. Two simplistic and honest cars, belonging to two completely different worlds.

Which engine do I recommend? Clearly, undoubtedly, the 1.6 petrol engine with 90 or 115 horsepower. If you manage to find a 160-horsepower Mini Cooper S, then that’s the chosen one. Otherwise, the naturally aspirated petrol engine is good.

Anyway, the original C4 was one of the few cars affordable for literally everyone, but around 2005 we weren’t really into French cars or any other type of car that wasn’t built in Germany or at least had a German badge. And yet the recipe worked, the first C4 riding the wave of new but affordable cars, cars bought by those who wanted a new car and not a used wreck from Germany, but who still didn’t quite want a Astra, which, by the way, had just been launched.

So we have a much more commercial car. The Citroen C4 B7 abandons the speedometer placed halfway through the dashboard, the climate control buttons are no longer in the glove compartment, the steering wheel is no longer attached to the hood, it no longer has cornering headlights that catch your eye much like how Emily Kristopher and her curves do. 

But at least we got standard equipment that makes your life easier but not necessarily more exciting. If you also choose the factory white paint, you can easily sell it in Currys, Electronic World, Gizmo and similar stores. But before I throw the Citroen C4 B7 completely under the train, I’ll tell you that it comes with standard ABS and ESP, disc brakes on the front and rear are also standard, semi-independent suspension, and lots of gizmos at the front, and a torsion beam at the rear. We no longer have the coupe version because they renamed it the Citroen DS3.

Citroen C4 B7 Engines

Petrol

• 1.4 VTi Puretech of 95 horsepower – Perfect for the 208 and a bit of a stretch for the Citroen C4 B7, but at least it’s the most reliable petrol available, and the 95 horsepower are sufficient for the city and occasional out of town trips.
• 1.6 VTi Prince of 120 horsepower – If you want to get 25 extra horsepower in exchange for an increased appetite for coil packs, then the 1.6 VTi could be the only engine you need on the Citroen C4. And more frequent timing chain failures.
• 1.6 Turbo Prince 156 horsepower – Essentially the same 1.6 VTi but now it also has a turbocharger attached to it and it still hasn’t managed to get rid of the timing chain issues. 

Diesel

• 1.6 HDi DV6TED of 90 and 110 horsepower – This garbage of an 1.6 HDi has been intubated and mostly repaired. It’s no longer the natural disaster of the past, but still has occasional issues with injectors. Anyway, like any other 1.6 diesel on the market, it has no business in the city because you’ll clog the particle filter in no time. Oh, there’s also the e-HDi version which is actually just a normal 1.6 HDi but with Start/Stop.
• 2.0 HDi DW10B 150 horsepower – The village bicycle of PSA and the answer of baguette eaters to the classic Golf VI 2.0 TDI. Just as good as the Golf 2.0 TDI but it was already too expensive for the typical budget of a Citroen C4 buyer so it’s rarer than the moments when Jake Paul doesn’t threaten anyone with a MMA fight.

Citroen C4 B7 Reliability Issues 

• It’s a Citroen so you automatically have to expect many issues on the electrical side. Unfortunately, the Citroen C4 B7 is a Citroen only in name and no longer has typical French technologies so you’ll mainly have issues with the air conditioning and infotainment.
• The EGS robotized gearbox is still trash and should be avoided, especially because of the increased appetite for clutches.
• For the second generation Citroen C4 the French decided to go into the comfort zone and sacrifice sportiness. And they went so far as to put special tire sizes for fuel economy. If you want something fast, this car is not for you. It’s for you if you want low running costs but that’s about it.

Citroen C4 B7 Verdict 

It’s no longer that Citroen madness, but you could say that in a way the Citroen C4 B7 is an equally extreme car. From spectacular but unreliable cars, the Citroen C4 is a very simple, bland but reliable car. Just add white paint to it, and it’s truly an appliance on wheels. And look, I managed to write 800 words about one of the dullest cars on the market. Dull, but reliable and cheap to buy and run.

What engines do I recommend? For petrol, the 1.4 VTi with 95 horsepower is clearly enough and it’s also the cheapest C4 B7. And for diesel, the classifieds are full of 1.6 HDi with 90 horsepower, and you don’t need more power really. Because this is a sporty car as far as I don’t have maintenance debts.

I believe this is the most forgotten car from Citroen, and hardly anyone knows anything about it. Especially now that the Citroen DS3 has arrived, which is practically a much better-looking and more dynamic version of the Citroen C3 SC. And then there’s the Citroen C4, which is essentially a larger C3, so the question arises: why would you buy a second-generation C3?

• There are two quite important reasons. The first reason is that in this range of cars every 100 pounds counts, and the Citroen C3 was cheaper to buy new than the C4 or DS3, and it’s much cheaper to buy used as well. Seriously, you can buy a Citroen C3 SC from 2010-2011, functional and with papers, for just 2000 pounds. You won’t find a Polo or a Fiesta from the same year at that price. The only real alternatives to the Citroen C3 SC are the Vauxhall Corsa and the Dacia Sandero, but the point still stands that it’s one of the cheapest used cars and it’s also fairly reliable.
• The second reason is that the Citroen DS3 was the sport version of the C3, and it comes with larger and more powerful engines, a more aggressive look, but also with sport suspension. And if you want comfort, the Citroen C3 SC is the better alternative. And more practical too, because the C3 comes standard with 5 doors, while the DS3 has only 3 doors.

So, the Citroen C3 is the convinced family member, while the DS3 is the rebellious adolescent. A C3 will live its life in a supermarket parking lot, while a DS3 will be in the parking lot of a music festival. One is Tom Jones, and the other is Becks V The Menthol.

And the second generation Citroen C3 is indeed a step forward compared to the first C3. Sure, it hasn’t transformed from a Cavallier into the Rixos Marina or from plain water into Guiness, but the second generation Citroen C3 comes with more technology, more safety systems, and engines for everyone. What’s more, it has standard cruise control on all models and that gear shift indicator that lights up on the dashboard when you need to shift gears, in case you’ve forgotten or don’t know when the right moment is. So, we still have an inexpensive and very easy-to-drive car.

Citroen C3 SC Engines

Petrol

• 1.0 MPI TU1 of 68 horsepower – The PureTech engine that I don’t think I’ve ever seen in action on a Citroen C3 SC. In fact, I’m not even sure I’ve seen more than 2 C3s of this generation in action ever. Plus, it only appeared in 2013 on the facelift model, when the C3 was already far too lost in anonymity.
• 1.1 MPI TU3 of 60 horsepower – This is carried over from the previous generation of C3 and the 206, and it’s a simple and reliable engine. The only notable issue is with the catalytic converters, in the unlikely event that you care and that you’ll drive enough miles for the issue to occur.
• 1.2 MPI EP6 of 82 horsepower – It has a more dubious reputation than Bobby Cummines, and you don’t know if it’s genuine or not. Built jointly by Peugeot and BMW, this engine is notorious for its camshaft that had play straight from the factory, so I wouldn’t throw money at this engine like an Dubai arab throws money at mobile toilets.
• 1.4 TU3 and EP3 of 73 and 95 horsepower – I’ve said it in the article about the Citroen C4 and I’ve said it in the article about the Peugeot 208, and I’ll say it here too. The 1.4 VTi with 95 horsepower is probably the most balanced engine for this car and it doesn’t have any specific issues.
• 1.6 EP6 of 120 horsepower – I’ve said it in the article about the Peugeot 208, and I’ll say it here too. This engine really doesn’t get along with the normal C3 because it only comes with the top trim level, and it implicitly costs so much that the point of the C3 is lost. Not to mention that this is a sports engine, and if you want sport, there’s the Citroen DS3. Anyway, if you insist, this engine is decently reliable and only needs coil packs from time to time.

Diesel

• 1.4 HDi DV4 of 68 horsepower – The old 1.4 HDi received a major overhaul and now it doesn’t have an appetite for injectors like the balkan people have an appetite for V33. However, with those 68 horsepower you’re limited to city life, but it’s a Euro 5 diesel that doesn’t get along with the city at all, so this engine is in a bigger existential crisis than a college graduate who sends out their first resumes on the job market and sees that nobody hires them for the dream job and definitely not for the dream salary.
• 1.6 HDi DV6 of 75, 90, 92, and 112 horsepower – Like the hateful 1.4 HDi, the 1.6 HDi also underwent a major overhaul and no longer destroys injectors and turbos like in the old days, but instead it can develop an increased appetite for oil, but you’ll have to accept that because it’s the only engine with which you can constantly travel outside the city. Although I don’t know why you’d want to do that in a Citroen C3.

Citroen C3 SC Reliability Issues

• We quickly move on to the action and take a jab at the infotainment system. Constant issues with Bluetooth connectivity, so check beforehand if your phone can connect to the car, if you care about that option. However, you should care about the Radio / MP3 at least because that tends to work only when it feels like it.
• And we continue on the line of electrical issues because otherwise it wouldn’t be Citroen. The microchip in the key… that, tends to faint early, so you’ll have to change it because otherwise you’ll be left with the spare key and the question “when will this key break too???” and then you’ll really feel like the skin of the male genital organ. And if the microchips in the key aren’t enough for you, you also get some issues with the tailgate stop light that works when and if it feels like it.
• The manual gearboxes of the diesel engines can have issues with the linkage and synchros, and the semi-automatic ETG gearbox should be avoided altogether.

Citroen C3 SC Verdict

Honestly, I’d rather recommend a Citroen C4 from the second generation because it’s a slightly larger car, somewhat better equipped, and with a somewhat nicer interior. But if 500 pounds make all the difference to you when buying a car, then the Citroen C3 is worth it. But that’s the only real reason to buy it, just because it’s a few hundred quid cheaper. Personally, I’d work for an extra month and buy a C4, which is a much more complete car.

What engines do I recommend? For petrol, absolutely the 1.4 VTi of 95 horsepower, and for diesel, the 1.6 HDi with 92 horsepower or any variant you find really.

Certainly, the Lexus GS S190 had a conservative look since its launch in 2005, and if you put it next to a BMW 5 Series E60 or an E-Class W211 or an Audi A6 C6, chances were that you’d go with one of the traditional German cars. That is if you didn’t have much money and weren’t yet completely convinced of the power of the Vectra.

And the numbers speak for themselves because, in UK for example just over 200 cars were sold, making it rarer than my moments of lucidity. And that’s because it took some time for them to realize that coming to Europe only with petrol engines of at least 3 litres displacement, only with automatic gearboxes, and only with middle-class proof prices is not a very profitable idea. Not to mention that Europe at that time was flooded with premium midsize saloons but with 2 litre diesel engines and manual gearboxes options because many people wanted to appear richer than they were. If you want a 5 Series but can’t quite afford a 5 Series, then you get a manual 520d. The same goes for the Audi A6 2.0 TDI, which was a more bigger, upscaled and slower Passat. But it had Audi written on it, and for many people, that’s all that matters in life.

That was until 2007 when Lexus announced and launched, live and in rerun, recommended by it’s voice and it’s talent, the first premium rear-wheel drive, hybrid saloon – the Lexus GS450h. And it was a success worthy of Antonio Bandera’s success with women. Just like in the case of the Outlander PHEV, the first hybrid SUV, the Lexus GS450h offers you a car with 340 horsepower, all possible features dreamed of in 2005, great fuel economy, and a tax dodging which meant you paid almost the same as if you had a Polo. You only had the insurance left to pay in full, but when you afford such a luxobarge, insurance costs are no longer relevant.

Just as the maintenance costs don’t matter because the Lexus GS S190 is one of the last modern cars built with materials stolen from the local dam. If you open the hood, you open it in vain because everything is covered, and the bonnet won’t lift too often. Like a coffin, essentially.

Lexus GS S190 Engines

Petrol

• 3.0 V6 3GR-FSE of 245 and 250 horsepower – We start the list with a newly introduced V6 engine that also comes with a direct injection because of new engines for new times. And this translates into more power but also carbon deposits on the valves. The oil consumption, on the other hand, is the same as in the Toyota family.
• 3.5 V6 2GR-FSE of 307 horsepower – If you’re American, you won’t be impressed by this engine because it’s the base engine on the Camry. If you’re European, you won’t be impressed by the tax. If you’re from anywhere, you won’t be impressed by the appetite for water pumps and the fact that the cylinder 5 tends to overheat. If you don’t buy the car new, I would avoid this engine.
• 4.3 V8 3UZ-FE of 300 horsepower – The legendary 3UZ-FE that debuted on the previous generation continues here, with no specific issues. And in the not necessarily long term, it’s cheaper than the hybrid.
• 4.6 V8 1UR-FSE of 347 horsepower – Unfortunately, the Scots at Toyota said that if they offer this engine in the hybrid version, no one will buy the LS, and they’re probably right. So they left it non-hybrid but with direct injection, so beware of carbon deposits. But what am I talking about here; the moment you can afford a Lexus GS460, you’re probably reading this literary calamity from somewhere in Abu Dhabi, the main market for the GS460.

Hybrid

3.5 V6 2GR-FXE with 340 horsepower – The star of the Lexus GS III and the main reason why Lexus entered the European market – with a hybrid engine to reduce the tax by up to 95%. Thus, you have an engine of 3.3, 3.5, or 4.6 petrol but pay taxes as if you owned a Polo. The issue is that it was a brilliant and fantastic idea for the first buyer, but if you buy it used, be prepared for what’s coming. You have two electric motors, two batteries, and a CVT gearbox. An extremely complex system that no one outside the dealership will touch. Plus, the batteries will cost you thousands of pounds when they wear out. So be wise and check the condition of the batteries and the hybrid system before buying a Lexus GS450h.

smartcapture

Lexus GS S190 Reliability Issues

• The wheels oxidize, and this is a common issue throughout the Toyota group. It’s not worth mentioning alloy wheels, because for a Lexus GS to mention that it has alloy wheels is like saying McDonald’s having meat in their hamburgers. Oh wait.
• The rear brakes and rear calipers fail prematurely, but this should already be known, and you should expect it, especially for the rear-wheel-drive versions.
• The microscopic boot, especially in the case of the GS450h hybrid. Seriously, only a suitcase with money and a suitcase with Alexander McQueen clothes can fit there because any other clothes are beneath your dignity.
• You’d think that a “medium” saloon, 4.8 meters long, has acres of space inside. Which is true and valid for the front seats, but for the rear seats, it could have been better, especially referring to the curved roof that cuts into headspace.
• The door hinges creak like any person over 30 when getting out of bed. By the way, why do you “get out of bed” and not “rise from bed”?

Lexus GS S190 Verdict

Yes, it’s a conservative car in both appearance and technology. But it’s one of the last large luxury cars built on the principle of “inheritance for grandchildren.” It may not be as sophisticated and flashy as a German car in its class, but if you want luxury and reliability, the Lexus GS S190 is the car for you. And for me, if I could afford something more luxurious than a Daihatsu Terios, which is also a kind of Toyota. And I could certainly afford it if the girls didn’t eat up my money at the neighboring shack. But let them eat, they’ve had a sweet mouth.

Which engines do I recommend? If you’re interested in maintenance costs but don’t care about fuel economy and taxes, clearly the GS300 3.0 V6 with 250 horsepower. Otherwise, if you want the full course, the Lexus GS450h 3.5 V6 hybrid with 340 horsepower, but be prepared for expenses.

Because in 2014, the crossover was still a smaller, cheaper SUV, and the Citroen C4 Cactus came to change the paradigm and no longer has any pretensions of being an SUV. It’s just a C4 with orange doors, adapted for the city and in such a stylish manner adapted for the city.

Plus, in terms of price, the Citroen C4 Cactus is not very far from the Dacia Duster, whether we’re talking about the new or used car market. Sure, the Duster runs faster, but the Cactus looks much better, and that’s very important in the world of urban fashion. And they managed to combine utility with pleasure because those rubber protections on the doors and corners serve to protect the bodywork in the inevitable moment when you’ll hit a corner, a shopping cart, or someone opens the car door next to you with too much enthusiasm. And besides that, you have billions of customizations, like with the Opel Adam, aesthetically speaking at least, and so you can have a unique car even though the Citroen C4 Cactus is an fairly exclusive car altogether.

As for the mechanical and practical part, it’s clear that baguette eaters went for a strictly urban client profile. They are aware that most of the time these cars have a maximum of 2 passengers, and the seats in the back stay empty, and if there are occupants, they rarely roll down the windows, so they replaced the windows with plastic that protrudes slightly outward, like on the Aygo. You could say it’s cheap, and you’d be right. But it’s also about utility and fashion.

Then you only have two engines, one petrol and two diesesl, so you can’t say you don’t have options, although I’m not sure why you’d want a diesel on a Citroen C4 Cactus. But again, I’m not sure why people would watch a show about Snooki and her life, but the show had enough audience so most likely I’m detached from reality and need a reality check.

Citroen C4 Cactus Engines

Petrol

• 1.2 MPI EB2 PureTech of 75 and 82 horsepower – This engine taught us on the Citroen C3 and on the Mini that it can’t be trusted because the first engines had major reliability issues. However, it seems that editions from 2014 onwards would be reliable.
• 1.2 Turbo EB2 PureTech of 110 and 130 horsepower – Just like we learned on the Crossland, this engine can be reliable as long as you change the timing on time and you’re not bothered by the sudden death of the water pump. By far the most balanced engine for the C4 Cactus, but unfortunately, it was avoided quite a lot because it was too expensive, and 82 horsepower are enough anyway for a strictly city car.

Diesel

• 1.5 e-HDi DV5 of 102 and 120 horsepower – I know, I said there was only one diesel available and it’s not the 1.5 e-HDi, but the reality is that it was launched in 2018 and in 2019 the model was retired so good luck finding one.
• 1.6 HDi DV6 of 92, 99, and 100 horsepower – It’s clear we’re true europeans because most classifieds about the Citroen C4 Cactus have models with this engine. Even though it’s a diesel engine, with a particle filter and AdBlue system in some cases, we insist on driving it in the city. And then we wonder why there are so many issues and we’re as confused as in the situation when we say, “What did we do, boss?” Overall, it’s a good and reliable engine, but unsuitable for urban driving.

Citroen C4 Cactus Reliability Issues

• Some haters would say it’s a issue, so I’ll mention it here, but unfortunately I don’t have anyone to argue with. But at least I was going to have a threesome this weekend, I only needed 2 more people! What was I saying? Oh yes, the haters. The Citroen C4 Cactus doesn’t have a tachometer, and all the press has latched onto that, but honestly, for the typical city driver, the tachometer isn’t relevant, especially since you have a gear shift indicator on the dashboard. Don’t complicate things with revs and numbers, follow the arrow.
• The ETG6 robotized gearbox should be avoided because it has quite serious issues getting started. Like me or any student on Monday mornings.
• The paint is as subtle as the snooze tolerance on Apple’s alarm. Seriously, that thing wakes you from the dead.
• There are no buttons on the dashboard, only a tablet. So if you’re fine and get along strictly with the tablet, it’s okay. If not, it’s probably best to pass.

Citroen C4 Cactus Verdict

It was a success for young people who wanted a cool city car but who never leave the city or very, very rarely. A kind of predecessor to the Toyota C-HR. Cars without outstanding driving characteristics but look good and catch your eye and money. Which is okay for typical C-HR and C4 Cactus buyers, because those people know nothing about cars and don’t want to know. It only matters that they look good and are easy to drive.

What engines do I recommend? For petrol, the 82 horsepower and 1.2-liter petrol engine are enough because you don’t need anything else for the city anyway, and for diesel, the classic 1.6 HDi with 99 horsepower, although I don’t know why you’d take a Cactus on long journeys. Or anywhere for that matter.

That’s because the Citroen DS 5 was an experiment by Citroen, and not necessarily a successful one. In essence, the Citroen DS 5 is like a reverse Audi A4 B6. The folks at Audi stretched the B6 platform more than a irish boss stretches a minimum-wage employee. They launched the A4 B6, then they launched the A4 B7, and somehow managed to keep the platform alive and launched the Seat Exeo. They pushed it as far as they could.

And the Citroen DS 5? Perhaps the garlic bread eaters listened to the fans and more specifically to the criticism brought to the Citroen C5, saying it was too teutonic. So they went back to the origins that made them famous and focused entirely on them good looks. Sure, it looks good, but if you want to live with it every day, it should know how to do more than just look good. Like women, essentially. As the saying goes, “it’s no use looking good if you can’t cook a proper beef wellington.” 

Citroen DS 5 Engines

Petrol

1.6 THP EV6 with 156 and 200 horsepower – Sure, there were major issues with the timing chain on the first models, but since this engine made its way onto the 3 Series it has become much more reliable, and you can buy it without worries. However, be careful because it’s a direct injection engine, and these need the intake manifold to be cleaned from time to time.

Diesel

• 1.6 e-HDi of 115 and 120 horsepower – Honestly, I’d pass on this engine for the Citroen DS 5; it’s like trying to get drunk on alcohol-free beer. It takes too long. By the way, does alcohol-free beer still exist, or has it disappeared like Pokemon Go? Oh yes, this engine also comes with the EGS6 semi-automatic gearbox, which should be avoided. But only the 1.6 HDi comes with this engine.
• 2.0 HDi DW10 of 120, 150, 160, 165, and 180 horsepower – I don’t have much to say about the legendary 2.0 HDi, which is like any other 2.0 diesel in 4 cylinders on the market. Oh yes, a special mention for the BlueHDI versions, which have an AdBlue system that needs to be taken care of.

Hybrid

2.0 HDi hybrid of 200 horsepower – The Hybrid4 engine is okay in itself, but it comes with the higher maintenance costs of hybrids. Plus, a hybrid is mainly made for city driving, while a Euro 6 diesel is for long distances. So what’s the point in the end?

Citroen DS 5 Reliability Issues 

• The biggest issue with the Citroen DS 5 is that they switched to regular suspension. Yes, they no longer have the famous hydropneumatic suspension that Citroen has been famous for since 1955. They have a normal suspension that isn’t as comfortable, not even by normal suspension standards.
• The ABS pump is a common issue for all Citroen DS 5 models, so when you see the ABS light on the dashboard, you can start wishing it health issues that you would normally address to Iliescu.
• And since we’re talking about dashboard errors, Citroen abandoned the hydropneumatic suspension but went back to the madness inside. We have a design that only Citroen can do, but we also have so many buttons and functions that only Citroen knows how to do. And the more buttons we have, the more technical issues we have, so check absolutely every button and every possible function before you buy.

Citroen DS 5 Verdict 

It seems it was more of an experiment than a dramatic rerun of turkish soap operas. Sure, they listened to criticism, and the DS 5 is not as teutonic as the old C5, but it wasn’t a good enough car for people to throw money at Citroen to buy one. Which is why they withdrew it fairly quickly and continued with the DS 9 story. Is it worth buying one? For how it looks, absolutely. And it’s also a decently reliable car.

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol, definitely the 1.6 Turbo with 156 horsepower because that’s the only one, and for diesel, the simple, non-hybrid 2.0 HDi with 150 horsepower. That should be all the engine you need.

Launched in 2008 to replace the original Citroen C5, the Citroen C5 already comes with a teutonic approach to the issue. With more flaws than a former minister of justice and a stubbornness to use technology from 1955 (the hydropneumatic suspension), Citroen sales have dropped like a sack of potatoes. This meant that the baguette-eaters had to understand that they shouldn’t build what they like but what sells. This is a basic rule in business, how these Citroen folks managed to survive on the market for so long without knowing this baisc principle, baffles.

What’s new about the Citroen C5 RD?

• You still get some typical Citroen creativity in the sense that the central section of the steering wheel remains fixed, where all the buttons and airbag are located, yet somehow the wheel spins.
• As a novelty, the hydropneumatic suspension on Citroen is no longer standard for all models. The folks at Citroen realized after 50 years that such technology is indeed impressive but also expensive to produce and maintain. So standard models come with a standard coil suspension, for more reasonable running costs cost.

Citroen C5 RD Engines

Petrol

• 1.6 EP6 of 120 horsepower – It’s not quite as bad as other 1.6 naturally aspirated petrols from the competition, but that engine was at least put on entry-level cars, and the Citroen C5 RD aims to be the flagship of Citroen.  And as a bonus, you get water pump issues that fail and overheat the engine, and if the timing chain isn’t changed on time, it fails. In both scenarios, you’re left without an engine.
• 1.6 THP EP6 of 156 horsepower – The same 1.6 but now it gets a turbocharger. A pretty good engine, by French standards. It’s like getting the highest grade on a retake exam. It’s like getting a 4.99 on an exam. You have the highest grade among those who failed. Watch out for timing failures.
• 1.8 EW7 of 125 horsepower – The same 1.6 that has been stretched to 1.8 and has even received 5 extra horsepower. If it were 6, they would be nice, but they’re not. Those 5 extra horses aren’t worth the 5 pounds difference in taxes and insurance.
• 2.0 EW10 of 140 horsepower – A simple engine that does its job admirably. It pulls decently even the body of the Citroen C5 RD. But we live in Europe and we’re not interested in non-diesel engines.
• 3.0 V6 ES9 of 211 horsepower – The same engine from the first generation of the Citroen C5 and made famous especially on the Clio V6. A spectacular engine, with running costs to to match. But it doesn’t fit the limousine character of the Citroen C5 RD.

Diesel

• 1.6 HDi DV6 of 109 horsepower – The same miserable 1.6 HDi with which we’ve gotten used to so far. A mechanical failure filled with issues with the turbo, turbo actuator, turbo oil filter, turbo itself, injectors, EGR, particle filter, and just about any mechanical part of the engine. If the saying “I wish all the unhappiness and issues in the world to fall upon you” applied, it would apply to this engine.
• 2.0 HDi DW10 of 136, 140, and 161 horsepower – Like any other 2.0 European diesel, there are issues with the EGR and particle filter. An engine that doesn’t stand out in any way, which is very strange for a Citroen. 
• 2.2 HDi DW12 of 170 and 200 horsepower – An absolutely fantastic engine, the 170 horsepower 2.2 HDi comes with a single turbocharger and legendary reliability. Used on Citroen C5, Peugeot 406, and Land Rover Freelander, this is one of the most reliable engines in recent history.
• 2.7 HDi V6 Bi-Turbo DT17 of 211 horsepower – Now we’re talking. A generally reliable engine, but when something breaks, prepare yourself spiritually, mentally, and physically. It’s not the fastest engine possible, but it can definitely tow another Citroen on the platform en route to the workshop.
• 3.0 HDi V6 DT20 of 240 horsepower – The same 2.7 HDi just a bit bigger, which worked a bit harder, which learned a bit more in school. But does a 3.0 V6 deserve a place under the bonnet of a Citroen C5? Plus, the engine weighs almost as much as pre-workout John Goodman, and will understeer in a style worthy of an Audi.

Citroen C5 RD Reliability Issues

• The hydropneumatic suspension is no longer standard. However, for those Citroen C5 models that have this suspension, you’ll need to prepare a few thousand pounds just in case.
• Now here’s a big one, like when you’ve eaten Indian fast food. The electrical system uses a CAN bus instead of classic wires because Citroen. When something breaks on the electrical side, guaranteed something else will break too until everything breaks if you ignore it long enough. That’s why it’s important to check absolutely all the electronics in the car and see if each button works. 

Citroen C5 RD Verdict

You can feel the teutonic influence on the Citroen C5 RD. It’s no longer a quirky car that breaks down every 200 meters, now it’s just another car on the street. On one hand, it’s much more reliable, on the other hand, it’s nothing special anymore. Basically a slightly cheaper, slightly more reliable, and slightly more attractive Passat B6. But it should have competed with the Passat B7, but it could only compete up to the B6 level. Anyway, if you go for the standard suspension, a 2.0 diesel and a manual gearbox, you get a decent car. Anything else may turn into an almost car. 

Which engine do I recommend? The 2.0 HDi with 140 horsepower, mated to a manual gearbox sitting on springs. It’s a decent saloon in terms of reliability, economy, and performance, and due to Citroen’s bad reputation, it’s even cheaper than the competition, even though it’s almost as good.

Citroen C5 DC, the car for the man who doesn’t have enough money for a proper car but wants something somewhat new and resembling a saloon. And the Citroen C5 DC is none of these things.

Why would you buy a Citroen C5 in 2019?

Good question.

However, there are still a few good things about the Citroen C5 DC, such as the plethora of technologies that became standard on other cars many years later. You get adaptive hydro-pneumatic suspension, xenon headlights that adapt in curves, a particulate filter for diesel engines, or a suspension that adapts itself according to driving style. At high speeds and on straight roads, the suspension lowers and provides stability. On roads worthy of our B-roads, the suspension rises.

This technology sounds very good on paper.

Here comes the big issue with the Citroen C5 DC. All of these are technologies launched long before the competition, and you can imagine they have quite expensive maintenance. You don’t need to be a rocket scientist to know that hydro-pneumatic suspension costs a fortune to replace. And if your budget is 2000 pounds or less aka the price of a Citroen C5 DC, you certainly won’t be able to maintain the car as Citroen imagined you would. Not even in the glory days and warranty days did people maintain their cars properly. And that’s where the issues and the famous reliability of Citroen come from. Hence, a lot of people have a very bad opinion about the car: Yes, you expect such expensive technologies in an S-Class and expect high maintenance costs. But not from a 1,500 quid Citroen C5.

Citroen C5 DC Engines

Petrol

• 1.8 EW7 of 115 horsepower – An absolutely legendary engine, known for the astronomical miles it has done under the hood of the Peugeot 406. Slow, but ridiculously reliable.
• 2.0 EW10 of 136, 140, and 143 horsepower – The same engine, just slightly stretched for a larger capacity. If you have this engine in your Citroen C5 DC, you have one of the most reliable engines of the 2000s. Too bad you have to buy the rest of the car as well.
• 3.0 V6 ES9 of 207 and 211 horsepower – An engine famous on the Renault Clio V6, this engine is worthy of Lana Rhoades movies before they get taken down. Issues with radiators and cylinder head gaskets, but with a 3.0 V6 do you really expect cheap maintenance? Plus, the car will understeer heavily due to the weight of the engine. What’s understeer? You take a corner, turn the steering wheel left, but the car keeps going straight because it was better off that way before.

Diesel

• 1.6 HDi of 109 horsepower – The same 1.6 HDi that ruined the reputation of Ford, Peugeot, Volvo, and Mazda comes to make your life miserable on the Citroen C5. I talked more about this engine in the Ford Focus review. Essentially, you have turbo oil filter gets clogged, the turbo no longer receives lubrication and fails. If you only replace the turbo and not the filter, the new turbo will break at the same pace as the previous one failed. Bonus you also get issues with the EGR and injectors.
• 2.0 HDi of 90, 109, and 136 horsepower – I won’t talk about the ones with 109 and 136 horsepower because they are not that reliable or good. However, I will talk about the legendary 2.0 HDi with 90 horsepower. I talked about it in the article about the Peugeot 307, where I said it’s as good as VW’s 1.9 TDI ALH. Additionally, this is the only diesel that comes without a particle filter and with a single-mass flywheel. Seriously, it’s more expensive to buy sneakers to wear them out walking than to keep this engine running.
• 2.2 HDi of 133 and 170 horsepower – The legendary 2.2 HDi with a turbo is one of the most reliable engines of the modern era. And the 2.2 HDi on the Citroen C5 DC is not that engine. It’s the predecessor of that engine. I won’t talk too much about the engine because the tax costs more than the car. Bonus points for the water accumulating in the air filter.

Citroen C5 DC Reliability Issues

• The adaptive headlights need extra power to function. If your battery isn’t sufficiently charged, you’ll be left in the dark, with your pants down and without headlights.
• Suspension issues, both front and rear. Especially if you have hydro-pneumatic suspension, you’ll probably end up selling the car when it fails.
• The manual gearbox is full of issues, but at least you can live quietly knowing that there are just as many issues with the ZF automatic gearbox. Besides, the automatic gearbox needs an oil change every 50,000 kilometers.
• The door locks and boot lock remain locked. This gives you the chance to stay outside the car and reflect on the fact that you bought a Citroen C5.
• Serious issues with HDi engines regarding the clutch and particulate filters. I’m starting to get tired of writing this list.
• The rear brakes and alloy wheels oxidize. If you can easily change the brakes with another set of equally oxidized ones, changing the wheels is much harder because the wheels remain stuck.
• Back to Xenon headlights, and I remind you that they cost more than the car. It seems that Citroen engineers came up with the expensive headlight issue before Audi did, so here we see that the Germans learned something from the French.
• The entire electronics part suffers from issues. Nothing serious to report, but when all possible parts break down, you start contemplating eco-solutions, like biking.

Citroen C5 DC Verdict

If you’re passionate about French cars and experimental technology, then the Citroen C5 DC is an excellent car for you. However, if you don’t want to be the guinea pig for the French and the main source of income for your mechanic, it’s probably best to avoid this car. However, at least it’s good to know that this car features technology that came to competitors many years later.

Which engine do I recommend? The legendary 2.0 HDi and it’s 90 horsepower. As I said earlier, the disadvantage is that you have to buy the rest of the car as well.

The Jeep Compass Mk49 sits halfway between the Caliber and the Patriot, cramped like a sanitary towel. Launched in 2006 when Jeep still had dreams and hopes in Europe just like we had until reality hit us at 25, and launched the euro offense of the mainstream car segments since then. The Dodge Avenger was for those who wanted a classic saloon because in 2006 a car had to be a car, dinner had to be dinner, alcohol had to be alcohol and a woman had to be a woman. Four doors and a boot. Then came Caliber which was a kind of Avenger with stretched legs and generally uglier and more compact, followed by Compass which was the more cross-over version of Caliber but it wasn’t even the full portion of burgers, colas, semi-automatics and freedom like Jeep Patriot. So if you wanted an off-road crossover but didn’t want the world to think you were drinking from a bottle without a label that only says “XXX” and so your sister wouldn’t think you’re hers tonight, Jeep Compass was the compromise.

And with that I have to bother wasting your time and internet bandwidth and writing the same review four times, because only the bodywork differs between Avenger and Caliber and Compass and Patriot. In fact, I don’t have to write the same review just four times, because these cars were jointly built with Mitsubishi Outlander, Citroen C-Crosser, Peugeot 4007, Mitsubishi ASX, Mitsubishi Lancer, Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross, Dodge Journey, Fiat Freemont and who knows what other cars have used the same platform. I don’t know about you, but I think it’s funny that the americans teamed up with the japanese to take the european car market by storm.

But wait, the crossover doesn’t end here, because I really want to say that the Jeep Compass uses the same CVT automatic gearbox for petrol variants as Renault used on its Fluence, Mitsubishi Colt, Nissan X Trail (all front-wheel drive petrol variants) and who knows who else used this box. Jatco JF011E is the code, go nuts.

Jeep Compass MK49 Engines

Petrol

• 2.0 MPI World of 158 horsepower – We start with the world engine, which in the base version of 2 litre and 158 horsepower only comes with front-wheel drive and you still have a chance to find it occasionally through the classifieds, but it doesn’t convince me the same way I’m not convinced by the idea of ​​working on weekends. Or anytime really. Including now.
• 2.4 MPI World of 170 horsepower – But let’s get down to business and crop up the summary. Noisy, not very fast or economical, but you have it for life. An old engine which sacrifices everything in the name of reliability. Just keep in mind to change the VVT timing, because it is a VVT-i engine with a timing chain. But overall it’s a genuine American engine. It will last longer than the rest of the car and possibly even longer than you.

Diesel

• 2.0 TDI E188 of 140 horsepower – Like the rest of the group, the non-facelift version up until 2011 uses the classic, eternal 2.0 TDI from VW but which is a cousin to the 2.0 TDI engine on the Golf and Octavia and is a decent engine, it is not the engine with fried injectors from Passat and Audi. Only the double mass flywheel remains to break your financial legs, but overall it remains a decent engine.
• 2.2 CDi OM651 of 136 and 163 horsepower – 2011 comes with a new concept, a new haircut and the eternal 2.2 diesel bought under license from Mercedes. Take care of the injectors and the oil leaks, but overall it’s a genuine Mercedes engine that will be overqualified for what you need and what work expectations you have from a Compass.

Jeep Compass MK49 Reliability Issues

• I talked about the JATCO CVT automatic gearbox that is installed on front-wheel drive petrol engines and I am not convinced, but you also have a 6-speed torque converter automatic box from Hyundai for the rest of the engines as well as for the 4×4 versions, which is a reliable gearbox as long as change the oil every 4 years or 60,000 km
• The transfer case which is actually not really a transfer case but a “Power Transfer Unit” for Jeep and for Americans. This unit / case which is a weak point for Compass, but only if you care about the off-road abilities of Compass, because a Compass makes me think of off-road just as Charlie Sheen makes me think of financial responsibility or how the book of Ye makes me thing about mental health awareness.
• It’s a Jeep from their euro offense era and the complementary moment must come when I have to talk about the rust underneath. The Jeep Compass MK49 is not a rust champion, but it’s good to check.
• It’s a Jeep from their euro offense era and the complementary moment about the cheap interior plastics must come. It’s not exactly a Touareg or X5 inside, but it’s not far from a Vectra. But at least it’s not Jeep Liberty, which is closer to a Cavalier than a Vectra.

Jeep Compass MK49 Verdict

It’s a Jeep from their euro offense era. If you’re too manly for a Caliber but not enough for a Patriot, Jeep Compass remains a decent choice. And why wouldn’t it be? It has a 2 litre engine sourced from VW, it handles medium off-road, it looks different. It is not a car for the pretentious, but if you want a reliable and simple car with which to do your work and you want something different from the neighbor’s Passat, then the Jeep Compass MK49 is definitely worth the money.

What engines do I recommend? For petrol I recommend both versions of the World engine, but I would prefer the 2.4 version because at least you can understand something from it performance-wise, but realistically the market is divided between the 2.0 TDI from VW and the 2.2 CDI from Mercedes. Whichever engine you pick, you’re in good american hands.

So, the struggle is still ongoing. But at least the Lexus GS S160 is the kind of car you’re likely to buy by chance and then realize that you’ve bought one of the best cars ever built. And when I say by accident, I mean it because Lexus in those times, like my eyes – blurry and empty – wasn’t a well-known brand in Europe, as it was still breaking the legs of the competition in the USA. And in what style it broke legs in the USA. Lexus GS S160 still came with muscle bound engines and quickly became a victim of the tuning scene in the US.

But why didn’t it sell in Europe?

• Because it’s a good car and because it’s attractive. The idea is that here too, Lexus made no compromises and threw in all possible features, just like women threw panties at Tom Hiddleston and Henry Cavill. 
• Lexus GS S160 is a luxury car from Japan, built to cater mostly the Asia and the North American markets, so there are no small engines and no diesel engines, two major issues for the European market. Lexus GS S160 had to directly compete with the BMW Series 5 E39, Mercedes E Class W210, and Audi A6 C5, all coming with tax-dodging engines smaller than 2 litres and with diesel engines. And Lexus GS S160? Nope, they took the engines from the previous generation and gave them more power. And they also brought in a special guest, the monstrous 3UZ-FE with 4292 cc and 300 horsepower.
• And to understand the idea even better, in case you graduated from the school of life and didn’t understand that the Lexus GS S160 is not a car for the modest, there are no manual gearboxes. If you were aspirationally rich and wanted to appear richer than you are, you could get away cheaper with a manual A6 1.9 TDI or an E39 2.0 diesel, but with Lexus GS S160, you have no access if you know what a tenner looks like. I would say a  biscuit, but that’s when we’re talking about the Lexus LS600h.

Lexus GS S160 Engines

Petrol

• 3.0 l-6 2JZ-GE 225 horsepower – The same 2JZ-GE taken from the previous generation and minimally modified to pass the class. Likewise, the water pump, injection pump, and oil consumption can be specific issues but appear late in life, like relatives who suddenly appear when you’re doing well.
• 3.0 l-6 Turbo 2JZ-GTE 320 horsepower – The cult star, the engine from the Toyota Supra continues its existence under the hood of the Lexus GS. As I mentioned in the review about the previous generation, this engine can be upgraded up to 750 horsepower without major interventions, and that’s why it was so popular in the tuning communities.
• 4.0 V8 1UR-FE 300 horsepower – In 1997 when it was launched, the Lexus GS400 was the fastest 4-door luxobarge with massage seats you could buy. In the world. Until the M5 came, but for a short period of time, the fastest saloon in the world was a Lexus.
• 4.3 V8 3UZ-FE 300 horsepower – But in 2000 things changed because the facelift came, and the Japanese thought the V8 engine was too small, so they added 300 cc of displacement for more power. With an acceleration from 0 to 100 km/h in 5.7 seconds and a top speed of 240 km/h, it was very close to BMW’s M5. Only, unlike BMW’s M5, this engine has no specific issues.

Lexus GS S160 Reliability Issues

• The front suspension fails because the Japanese installed 6 tons of steel and aluminum and combined them in a festival of masculinity and luxury. But anyway, it’s not your issue if the suspension fails if you call the dealership, and they take care of everything.
• The actuators on the doors, on the other hand, are a minor issue that you can fix in the parking lot. If you bought a used Lexus GS S160 in 2023 and you’re not the kind of person who could afford a new GS.

Lexus GS S160 Verdict

If you don’t mind the fact that all engines are petrol and the smallest engine is 3 litres of JDM masculinity, then the Lexus GS S160 is one of the best cars for comfortable cruising on a budget. It’s a pure-blooded Lexus, so it’s not a sports car but a comfort car, but if you want a spa on wheels and have a budget of 4000 euros, this is the car to buy. And yes, it’s better than the Volvo S80. And you even have buttons on the steering wheel for changing gears!

Which engines do I recommend? Considering that it’s an old car that sells cheaply, and the audience accordingly isn’t extraordinarily wealthy, I’ll stick to the 3-liter 2JZ-GE engine and it’s 225 horsepower.

The whole idea of the Honda Insight was built around fuel economy. In Europe we had the VW Lupo 3L at the time, which was capable of achieving a galactic fuel economy of under 80 mpg / 3 l/100 km of extra-urban driving (driving, not racing because you couldn’t achieve racecar speeds). In the early 2000s, Honda embarked on a similar project and introduced the original Honda Insight, with a modest 1-liter engine and a 13-horsepower electric motor, managing to achieve fuel economy figures of 70+ mpg. This was quite the ambitious project, considering that in the United States of the 2000s there were giants roaming around like the Ford Excursion, Chevy Suburban, or the Dodge Viper with its naturally aspirated 450-horsepower 8.0 V10 petrol powered engine.

However, the little Insight gathered a small community of Americans who developed the concept of hypermiling – how to achieve the best possible fuel economy. But the Honda Insight ZE2 has nothing to do with all of that.

The Honda Insight ZE2 was launched in 2010 as an entirely new car, but it wasn’t an automotive revolution; it was just a simple answer from Honda to the Toyota Prius. They threw away the body of the defunct Honda Civic Hybrid, kept the same powertrain, and mounted it on the Honda Insight ZE2 body, which looks remarkably like the Prius. More remarkably than when you remember that you left a jar in the fridge six months ago, you now have to clean that jar.

But at least they managed to make a fairly large car with a sufficiently large boot to accommodate the batteries and biodegradable bags filled with organic food.

Honda Insight ZE2 Engines

Hybrid

1.3 MPI LDA-MF3 + hybrid of 98 horsepower – Built specifically with fuel economy in mind, this engine has the unique feature of double the number of spark plugs per cylinder, just like Alfa Romeo. Except that in Alfa Romeo, they were for performance. On the Insight however they’re for achieving comically impressive mpg figures. Aside from the fact that you have to replace 8 spark plugs instead of 4, some engines develop an appetite for oil late in life, much later than any Honda Insight ZE2 owner would dare to drive. There remains the real issue of the hybrid system, which, when it needs servicing it will tank away all your fuel savings.

Honda Insight ZE 2 Reliability Issues

• It’s a rare car, so good luck finding parts and mechanics. Moreover, even though the car is very good and very reliable, the hybrid system still requires special servicing, and you have a good chance of being turned away, even by the dealership
• To keep up the fuel economy numbers a lot of work went into reducing the total weight, including soundproofing. Asian cars, in general, are famous for poor soundproofing (Toyota Corolla), but the Hyundai Insight ZE2 starts to sound like a 3 Series. And no, not a BMW 3 Series, but a John Deere 3 series.

Honda Insight ZE2 Verdict

A relatively rare car that didn’t have a thunderous success in Europe. Is it due to that bland and possibly ugly interior? Is it because we’re not interested in hybrids since we’re a diesel continent? Or perhaps the lack of hybrid servicing infrastructure is what keeps us away? All I know is that the Honda Insight ZE2 is one of the few hybrid cars you can buy when you have a budget of 5,000 pounds or less, so if you want to try something new, the Honda Insight ZE2 is worth a look. Just don’t expect performance, because the Honda Insight lacks sportiness just as much as I lack clarity.

After the unexpected success of the Lexus LS in 1989, Toyota engineers thought of launching the second generation of LS in 1994 and also a rival for a class below, namely a rival for the Series 5 and E Class, because A6 did not exist back then, as they already had the Lexus ES for the compact class like Series 3 and 190E, and Audi 80. And so, the Lexus GS S140 was born. Only this time, they didn’t set aside money for a special and exclusive platform, as was the case with the LS, and they resorted to the platform of the legendary Toyota Crown, a name that means little to us but made waves in Japan and the USA.

The recipe was composed of all the right ingredients. It had independent and full of surprises suspension both at the front and rear, it had e-German engines with horizontal figures and paranormal eights. It was built to endure longer than the factory in which it was built. It had an average price, and you no longer had real reasons to buy a Series 5. And yet, it was a bigger failure than Pimp my bedroom. Get on me, rub better, with those supernatural vertical engines, stay a bit longer…

Why was it a failure?

• Because the initial price was better than walmart commercials from the 2000s, which you can no longer air nowadays, only that the yen had started to gain value, and the price had increased so much that you could buy a Series 7 for that money. Then the Lexus GS S140 fully felt the effects of the lost decade in Japan’s history, and sales were slim. Super slim. Gwyneth Paltrow slim. 
• The second reason was that people were not so interested in a luxury sedan in the middle class. We are in 1994 and in the midst of madness. The Subaru Impreza WRX is just being launched along with the first Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution. The Nissan Skyline GT-R R33 and, right from Toyota’s courtyard, the legendary Toyota Supra with which most readers around here grew up through NFS. I think you get the idea, even if the most important and best car launched in 1994 was the Range Rover P38.

Lexus GS S140 Engines

Petrol

• 3.0 l-6 2JZ-GE 227 horsepower – Yep, that legendary 2JZ from Toyota. Water pump, oil consumption, and high-pressure pump. These would be the issues, but they happen rarely enough not to raise your tension to paradise.
• 3.0 l-6 Twin-Turbo 2JZ-GTE 275 horsepower – Yes, it’s that 2JZ from Toyota but with two connected turbines. Yes, it’s that engine from the Supra. Yes, on the Supra, the engine was sold with 330 horsepower stock and somewhere around 750 if you started to fiddle with it. In practice, the Lexus GS300 is a Toyota Supra with 4 seats, an automatic gearbox, and massage seats. As for issues, the turbines tend to fail just as Nikita makes love – rarely but well.
• 4.0 V8 1UZ-FE 250 horsepower – Seeing that the Lexus GS S140 was selling like hotcakes, the slavs from Toyota thought of offering the legendary 4.0 V8 1UZ-FE from the Lexus LS and Toyota Land Cruiser. An almost indestructible engine, and the only real issue is age in the sense that it doesn’t have any specific weak points, but anything can be weakened at this age.

Lexus GS S140 Reliability Issues

• Lexus GS S140 came packed with technology, and that means that at its age, it will also have complementary electrical issues.
• Good luck finding parts and mechanics. In fact, this is the biggest issue with the Lexus GS S140 because it was a rare car. On one side, you had the Toyota Aristo, which was 90% Lexus GS at 70% of the price, and on the other side, you had the Toyota Supra.

Lexus GS S140 Verdict

One of the shortest articles on this online septic tank, and that’s because the list of issues is short because that’s pretty much the strong suit of Lexus. Honestly, I have serious doubts that this article and this car will catch on with the public, just like I caught my fingers in the piano, but without the Lexus GS S140, we wouldn’t have the Lexus GS S160, one of my favorite cars.

Which engines do I recommend? Realistically speaking, the 2JZ-GE engine with 227 horsepower is all the engine you need because the next engines are already too rare and too expensive.

Sure, it’s basically a Citroen C3 II at its core, as they share the same platform, but that’s where the similarities end. Just like Quentin Tarantino resembles a foot fetishist because they are created on the same platform, but that’s about it. If the C3 is Hrusca, the Citroen DS3 is Twisted Sister. If a C3 is a traditional meal at a restaurant, the Citroen DS3 is a rooftop party. Yes, I’m a sold-out fan of this pair of branded sneakers on wheels.

So we have a strictly 3-door configuration, a much sportier and more aggressive body kit, and the glorious 1.6 Turbo petrol engine built in collaboration with BMW and fitted to the Mini. We have sports suspension that isn’t comfortable but helps when you hit the pedal.

Overall, we have a reliable city car that ventures into the sports zone, offering both small engines for those who buy based on appearance alone and engines for those who want to hit the gas. In essence, it’s a Citroen version of the Alfa Romeo MiTo. In fact, if I think about it, the MiTo would be the only natural rival to the Citroen DS3. And yes, it’s the Citroen DS3 until 2016 because it was the first model in the “DS” range, and from 2016 it becomes the DS 3, period.

Speaking of the 2016 facelift when it became the DS 3, the Citroen DS3 also receives factory xenon headlights, more customization options and colors, and most importantly, a genuine automatic gearbox. I don’t need to mention that the DS3 sold like hotcakes, and you can find any car for any preference. The only real downside is that a DS3 costs almost double that of a normal C3, but even with that, it’s still worth it.

Citroen DS3 Engines

Petrol

• 1.2 MPI EB2 with 82 horsepower – With only 3 cylinders and a dubious reputation for reliability, I can’t recommend this engine particularly. Plus, it integrates as well as a huggler with a struggler among family men or a rocker among punks.
• 1.2 Turbo EB2DT with 110 and 130 horsepower – If this engine was good enough for the Opel Crossland and other large cars, then it’s good enough for the Citroen DS3. The only hurdle is getting over the fear of turbocharged engines.
• 1.4 MPI EP3 with 95 horsepower – The 1.4 VTi with 4 cylinders and 95 horsepower is the most balanced engine for the Citroen C3 and DS3. If you’re more interested in appearance than performance, then this engine is suitable for you. Plus, it had the option of factory-installed LPG.
• 1.6 MPI EP6 with 120 horsepower – The most powerful engine in the regular DS3 lineup and quite rare because people who wanted power bought the Racing version directly. But at least it’s reliable, occasionally needing coil packs but that’s about it.
• 1.6 Turbo EP6DT with 156, 165, 207, and 210 horsepower – Reserved exclusively for the DS3 Racing, this engine was built by Peugeot in collaboration with BMW and is the notorious “Prince” engine. Known for timing chain issues, it’s an engine where you need to budget for timing chain replacements. Or alternatively, look for a model where the timing chain has already been replaced.

Diesel

• 1.4 HDi DV4 with 70 horsepower – It no longer has the issues of the past, but why would you buy a DS3 with a 1.4 diesel engine with 70 horsepower? Why would you do that?
• 1.6 HDi DV6 with 90, 100, 110, and 120 horsepower – Or a 1.6 diesel??? But since I’m here, I’ll talk about the common issues with diesel engines. Or later in the dedicated section. But overall, it’s a reliable engine, unlike the first 1.6 HDi engine, which was as good as unpasteurized beer.

Citroen DS3 Reliability Issues

• I’ll start with diesel engines because I promised. The 90 and 110 horsepower versions are Euro 5 and don’t get along well with urban traffic because of the particulate filter and the EGR. And the BlueHDI versions of 100 and 120 horsepower also have AdBlue, giving you even more reasons not to use them in the city. Finally, we have the complementary issues of manual gearboxes, which can have issues with the linkage.
• The paint on the roof was poured over the normal body paint and tends to peel off. It’s not necessarily an issue, and if you’re obsessed with the slightest peeling, there are remedies for your ailment, but it’s important to mention.
• Being a fancier C3, I must also mention the complementary issues on the electrical side. The most serious one is the chip in the key… that, when it dies, leaves you in the parking lot, so take the spare key with you. You also have issues with Bluetooth connectivity and the brake light, which works when and if it wants to.

Citroen DS3 Verdict

It’s one of my favorite cars. It’s no wonder it’s a direct rival to the Alfa Romeo MiTo, another car from my list of favorites. Both have small, cheap, and economical engines, and both also have powerful engines. And the DS3 also has a genuine 6-speed automatic gearbox, so you can even get an automatic if you’re very fashionable and don’t care about sportiness. But I have to admit that a Citroen DS3 Racing, black with orange roof and orange mirrors, is something else.

What engines do I recommend? For petrol, the 1.4 VTi with 95 horsepower if you want something simple and reliable, and the 1.6 Turbo with 207 horsepower if you want to run as fast as it looks. And the realistically purchasable diesel is the 1.6 HDi in any power version.

Perhaps the regular C3 didn’t catch on much in Europe because it’s too expensive for what it offers, but the C3 AirCross seems to enjoy a mini success because it’s a cheap crossover that looks better than a Duster, even when both are in the base trim level. And speaking of the Duster, the main rival of the Citroen C3 AirCross, at the time of writing this article, the Citroen C3 AirCross starts at 17,700 pounds, 200 pounds cheaper than the Duster, and the only cars cheaper, which I wouldn’t necessarily call crossovers, are the Suzuki Ignis starting at 15,500 pounds and the Kia Stonic starting at 16,800 pounds.

Why choose the C3 AirCross over others in the price range?

That’s a very good question to which I don’t know if I have a mega relevant answer or even a semi-relevant one. Okay, let’s remove the Suzuki Ignis from the list because it’s the cheapest and most utilitarian car on the list. If you want a pseudo-crossover and don’t care much about features or quality, the Suzuki Ignis beats the whole market. And the Ignis also gets the hybrid bonus, and you can get a new Ignis for about 11,500 euros, so there’s really no point in discussing it.

Moving on to the next round, and we quickly understand that the main rival of the C3 AirCross is not the Duster but the Kia Stonic. Both have 84 horsepower, both have millions of customization options ( the C3 AirCross has billions of options ), both are slightly taller superminis ( the Kia Rio for the Stonic and the C3 for the C3 AirCross), both have roughly the same dimensions, with the Citroen C3 AirCross having an additional 12 cm in height and 2 cm in length, practically a whole Kenny Baker in difference. And the Citroen C3 AirCross remains, like the rest of the family, the most stylish in its class. But is that style enough to grab your eye and your money?

Citroen C3 AirCross Engines

Petrol

• 1.2 ED2F of 83 horsepower – If your primary need is for a wasing machine on wheels that you don’t care about but still want it to look somewhat decent, then look no further. 83 horsepower is enough for the city and occasional trips out of town, and this also keeps the price at a more acceptable level.
• 1.2 ED2FT of 110 and 131 horsepower – Or if you want an automagic gearbox and options like seats and windows, you’ll have to raise your budget and go for the turbo version of the PureTech. As in the article about the regular C3, and any car with this engine essentially, you need to be careful with the timing chain, which wears prematurely and can leave you without an engine. And yes, this also applies to the non-turbo engine, the one with 83 horsepower. That’s why I recommend getting the newest model year within your budget.

Diesel

• 1.5D DW5 BlueHDi of 110 and 120 horsepower – Available from 2021 to replace the old 1.6 HDi, this engine is a decent diesel but I don’t see it under the hood of a C3, plain or AirCross, just like I don’t see myself under Sofia Boutella‘s hood. Of course, in my case, it’s impossible because Sofia Boutella’s will never look at me, and she won’t respond to the 6522 messages I’ve sent so far. But with the C3 AirCross? You can have the 1.5 HDi diesel.
• 1.6D DW6 BlueHDi of 99 and 120 horsepower – But I’ll talk collectively about these two engines. Like any modern diesel, they’re decent on long journeys but very bad in the city because the particle filter, EGR valve, injectors, and so on which get clogged. Modern diesel engines also have AdBlue, so make sure to make room for an AdBlue canister in those 50 liters of boot space.

Citroen C3 AirCross Reliability Issues

• I mentioned above that it’s 12 cm taller than the Stonic but roughly the same width, which wouldn’t be a concern at low city speeds, but if you’re on a long journey and take a corner fast, you’ll immediately understand why a tall and narrow car isn’t a good idea. Citroen C3 AirCross, the dynamic successor to the Daewoo Damas.
• It’s a French car, so the complementary moment about electrical issues must come.
• It’s a budget French car, so the complementary moment about the slightly dubious quality of assembly must come, but that can be said about all modern cars really.

Citroen C3 AirCross Verdict

Like the regular C3 version, the Citroen C3 AirCross didn’t do too well here in Europe, and you could argue that the price says enough or maybe everything. In other words, the Crossland platform sibling does slightly better in terms of sales, but not by much, and the value-for-money ratio may not be the best. My opinion and verdict are that a Citroen C3 does exactly the same job as a C3 AirCross and may look the same or even better, and is definitely much more economical.

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol power the entry level 1.0 PureTech and it’s 83 horsepower should do the job, and for diesel just go for the tried and tested 1.6 HDi and it’s 99 horsepower of pure baguette muscle. Or maybe just baguette, as the engine might aswell be made out of baguettes.

Just because it’s not selling here doesn’t mean it’s a bad car. It’s just the market that’s wrong. At the time of writing this review, the Citroen C3 started at 6,800 euros or 6.16 lakh in India, a very popular market for Citroen C3 and C3 AirCross. And yes, I looked up the data from India because here, Citroen C3 SX is not the most popular car, but it does appear on our streets from time to time.

However, it’s interesting because the Citroen C3 SX is as cheap or even cheaper than the Sandero. And now things get complicated. Both cost 10,000-11,000 euros new with trade-in and other discounts if you do things for and with the sales rep in the parking lot at the back of the dealership; both come with a 65-horsepower 1 litre petrol engine, both come with manual air conditioning, a radio, and some wiring. Both come with the option of factory-installed LPG for the smallest engine. The Dacia Sandero is a bit more spacious and, you’ll laugh, a bit better assembled, while the Citroen C3 is a bit cheaper and looks better. Especially if you get it with the red roof, then you practically have a budget Mini Cooper. So yes, if you want a city car that looks somewhat decent and costs 10,000 euros new and is not strictly limited to city life like the i10 or Picanto, then yes, it’s worth it. But that’s where the similarities end, along with the whole thing about the Citroen C3 SX.

Because it’s clear that Citroen didn’t focus too much on the C3, as we only have one petrol engine, naturally aspirated or turbocharged, and we had two diesel engines for 5 minutes that nobody bought because they were too expensive and because you don’t want to go on the M2 in a 1 litre Citroen C3.

As for city life, because that’s why the Citroen C3 SX is here for us. Very good for the city, the steering is very light, and the brakes are very light, but still the gearbox is long geared because it’s a Citroen. It’s a very easy car to drive if you have no inclination towards driving and you’re not interested in driving and you don’t have slogans about the spirit of driving and other nonsense. No, if you want a car that you can turn with your finger and brake with your finger and that you can park anywhere and you don’t care if you scratch it or hit it, and it looks decent, then yes. It’s worth the money.

Citroen C3 SX Engines

Petrol

• 1.2 EB2F PureTech with 62 and 83 horsepower – The entry level engine and currently the only one available for sale, at least the 83 horsepower one. And you don’t need more. And yes, I recommend buying new or nearly new because the PureTech engine has a past and possibly a present of timing chain issues that wears out prematurely and can leave you with your pants down. I mean without an engine.
• 1.2 EB2FT PureTech Turbo with 110 horsepower – Same engine, just now with a turbo added. And I wouldn’t necessarily buy it because of reliability issues, but rather because this engine starts at 19,400 euros, and I’m not convinced that those extra 30 horsepower will change your life and are worth the money. It’s not an hooning engine, and the car is not an hooning hero car. The only real reason you would buy this version is that it’s the only one with an automatic gearbox, but we’re already over 20,000 euros, and I don’t know what to say about that.

Diesel

• 1.5d DV5 BlueHDi with 102 horsepower – The successor to the 1.6 BlueHDi was available for sale for 3 minutes and 24 seconds, so I won’t talk too much about it.
• 1.6D DV6 BlueHDi with 75 and 99 horsepower – Because the old 1.6 BlueHDi is the most popular diesel engine for sale, there are currently even 3 classifieds on autotrader. There are no longer reliability issues from the past, but still, it should be kept away from urban jungles because it will have issues with the particle filter, EGR, injectors, and so on. And because we live in ecological times, you also need to pay attention to the AdBlue system and have AdBlue cans in the trunk all the time. Alternatively, you can buy a petrol version that does about the same fuel economy but doesn’t have any of these drawbacks.

Citroen C3 SX Reliability Issues

• The ConnectCAM system will torment you like memories do when you wake up in the middle of the night, cry softly, and remember.
• Shock and horror, as one of the most beautiful women in the universe would say, the Citroen C3 SX is very cheap in terms of interiors and quality in general. But again, for 6,700 euros, the price in India, you shouldn’t have any expectations.
• Manual gearboxes are geared long and I didn’t necessarily understand why, so do a test drive beforehand and see if you get along with the gear ratios.

Citroen C3 SX Verdict

It’s clear that the Citroen C3 SX wasn’t planned for the European market and is worth buying only in the entry level version. But it’s a car that competes in terms of price with the Sandero and isn’t too far off in terms of price-quality ratio. So if you don’t want a Sandero but want something cheap for the city, a base Citroen C3 can be all the car you need. Just don’t go for the more expensive versions.

Which engines do I recommend? The 1.0 PureTech petrol engine with 83 horsepower and a manual gearbox is all the C3 you need, and for diesel, even the 1.6 HDi with 75 horsepower is enough, although I don’t know exactly why you would buy one.

Suzuki Swace is the second collaboration attempt between Suzuki and Toyota, the first being Suzuki Across and Toyota Rav4. And here we have the Suzuki Swace which is actually a Toyota Corolla Touring with a different badge. It’s just that, unlike the Rav4, an inverse logic was applied because in Japan there was no middle ground.

If the Across comes only in the Rav4’s top spec and costs a mind-boggling 50,000 pounds, the Suzuki Swace is a cheaper Corolla Touring. Much more cheaper. At the time I ejected this literary calamity, the Suzuki Swace costs 5000 pounds less than the Toyota Corolla Touring. And for what Suzuki Swace represents, 5000 pounds is everything.

What are the differences and why should I buy a Swace instead of a Corolla?

First of all, we have the equipment level, logically. Suzuki Swace receives only the basic technologies and leaves the bells and whistles for the Corolla Touring. I would differentiate them but there are too many to write and I’m lazy. But in essence Swace has the basic trim level and does not have sports packages and other unnecessary toys. Plus the Suzuki Swace comes strictly with the famous 1.8 hybrid and 122 horsepower, while the Corolla also has a 2.0 hybrid with 196 horsepower to play around with. But then again, if you’re the kind of person who looks at Suzuki Swace, you don’t care too much about power. It doesn’t even emit smoke, so you can say it has power.

And then there is the issue of warranty. Toyota offers a standard warranty of 6 years or 120,000 miles / 200,000 km, and Suzuki offers a standard warranty of 3 years or 60,000 miles / 100,000 kms. It’s just that at the time I wrote this artistic regret, Suzuki also offers an extra warranty of another 7 years or 60,000 miles / 100,000 km strictly for hybrid models, including the Suzuki Swace. Only it presents it as 3+7. Which, coincidentally or not, is exactly what Toyota offers in Western Europe as a guarantee for hybrid models, 10 years or 200,000 km. I wonder why we offer only 6 years.

Therefore, we have a simple, reliable, fully functional car. A kind of modern-day Passat B4, if you can call it that. A simple, classic car that’s reliable and economical, has a 10-year warranty and comes standard in the form of a station wagon. Basically, what more do you want from it? I know what else you want, a badge to show the peasants that you are sitting on the dough. But instead with a Suzuki, you won’t impress anyone.

Suzuki Swace Engines

Hybrid

1.8 hybrid petrol 2ZR-FXE of 122 horsepower – The same 1.8 hybrid used effectively everywhere in the Toyota group and which was also recycled on the Suzuki Swace. It’s an old-fashioned engine, it’s not part of the M20A or M15A generation like the new Yaris or Rav4, but that also means that it has most of the issues solved. There are still occasional issues  with the Valvematic and the oil consumption at galactic mileages, but it is very unlikely that you will get there. Oh yes, and you also have the fact that the battery cannot be charged directly from another car in case you are left empty-handed in the parking lot, but a trickle charger must be used.

Suzuki Swace Reliability Issues

• The CVT type automatic gearbox is taken from Toyota and in general people look at CVT gearboxes in the same way as old people look at broccoli haircuts. It’s just that the Suzuki Swace is not a sports car at all, and somehow the CVT box feels like it’s from there.
• The infotainment system is the cheapest possible option they found in 2023, just to pass the class and that’s it. Toyota’s infotainment units are generally slightly outdated, but the one on the Suzuki Swace is from the time of Ketama. Or the original Rav4.
• The 600 litre boot is below the class average, which would be quite important for the typical Swace buyer.
• You have two equipment levels and that’s it. But at least you know that you live a simple life and don’t complicate things. Don’t stress the white hair on your head with details. You have no choice and studied 3 days and 3 nights between the 5 equipment levels on the Corolla. Here you only have two.

Suzuki Swace Verdict

If you want a classic family car, simple and utilitarian, Suzuki Swace is the best offer on the market at the moment. But are we still interested in utilitarian? Are we still interested in a simple, robust and efficient car, but which does not stand out with anything? It’s a car with which you can do your job and that’s it. But it is exceptionally good at being a car “to do your job with and that’s it”. It reminds me a lot of the first Dacia Logan. A simple, cheap and reliable car for people who want a car strictly to go from A to B, with minimal costs.

Which engines do I recommend? Really.

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I’m not necessarily a fan of the Citroen C4, unless we’re talking about the coupe edition, which looks quite stylish. Although the C4 hatchback looks like a smaller, cheaper C6, which isn’t necessarily bad. Launched in 2004 as the successor to the dubious Xsara, the Citroen C4 was developed alongside the Peugeot 307, and they had to storm the European market, which at the time was dominated by the Ford Focus, Vauxhall Astra H, and VW Golf V.

So, the Citroen C4 was never a popular car here in Europe, not with it’s competitors of it’s time. And anyway, the Citroen C4 wasn’t the haute couture type of car that was to become a trendsetter after a few generations; it was rather a simple, entry-level car. Sure, you still have the Citroen-style steering wheel, which is too weird for me, and the speedometer is up on the dashboard, like in the Scenic or Yaris, but otherwise, it’s a normal car. 

Like the Astra H, the Citroen C4 I started off pretty poorly in terms of reliability, but over the years, it turned out to be a mediocre car in terms of reliability, not a total disaster.

Yes, maybe back in 2005 it didn’t compare to the Golf in terms of reliability, but in 2024 the C4 might be more reliable than a Golf V. Like a nerd who went about his life and didn’t venture out and lived exactly within societies bounds and who ended up living like the head of the class from high school who spent his 20s floating in alcohol and drugs and now tries to lead a normal life. No, the Citroen C4 isn’t Forrest Gump because it’s not that brilliant, but the Golf V might be Jenny at the end of the movie. At the end of her career, with all possible diseases.

Citroen C4 Engines

Petrol

• 1.4 MPI ET3 of 87 horsepower – A relatively robust engine but suffers from incontinence and at some point in its life, it will need piston rings. The question is whether it’s still worth it to replace them or if you should just go on with oil top-ups. Basically any small petrol engine of this era. 
• 1.6 MPI TU5 and EP6 of 108 horsepower and 120 horsepower – The TU5 engine available until 2008 is just another naturally aspirated 4 cylinder 1.6 petrol engine about which I don’t have much to comment. Yes, it has a penchant for spark plugs like I have for the new season of “Graham Norton Show”, but that’s about it. I’ll talk about the 120 horsepower version below.
• 1.6 Turbo EP6DT of 156 horsepower – This is because both the 120 horsepower and 156 horsepower engines are the same VTi engine, the only difference being that one has a turbocharger and the other doesn’t. Developed in collaboration with BMW, this engine was supposed to go into Minis and BMWs as well, but due to reliability issues, it was quickly withdrawn. Sure, the French worked on it more, and the next generations of THP engines are okay in terms of reliability, but here we’re talking about the first generation and the infamous timing chain and oil consumption issues. Personally, I’d say pass.
• 2.0 MPI EW10 of 136, 140, and 177 horsepower – Now we’re talking about serious stuff! The legendary EW10 engine is a million-kilometer engine and still trudges on through Africa and South America. All you have to do is change the oil and timing chain on time, and you won’t have any worries with this engine.

Diesel

• 1.6 HDi DV6 of 90 and 109 horsepower – I’ve already talked so many times about this failure of an engine, which unfortunately is also the most popular engine on the Citroen C4. Be very careful with the oil filter in front of the turbo because it clogs and it will wreck the turbo, but also with the injectors and the particulate filter, AND BETTER YET, AVOID THIS ENGINE ALTOGETHER.
• 2.0 HDi DW10 of 136 and 140 horsepower – Yes, it’s more reliable than that trash called 1.6 HDi, but when I think that a dual-mass flywheel and a clutch cost more than a 2006 Citroen C4’s overall worth, any perverse transversal thought crosses my mind. But if you really want a diesel, at least make an effort and go for this one.

Citroen C4 Reliability Issues

• The highlight is the dashboard, which is actually not as sturdy as it seems. Either it’s fallen off or it hangs by a thread of hope like a college graduate entering the job market for the first time and seeing that nobody hires him, or it got stuck closed.
• The windshield wipers are another highlight of the Citroen C4, in the sense that they never work as they should, but only as they want.
• Citroen C4 melts radiators just like any show featuring Jimmy Fallon melts my intelligence. 
• It’s a Citroen, so it has a lot of technology, so you’ll have constant issues on the electrical side. Nothing that leaves you stranded, but you’ll never have a 100% functional car.
• What’s the deal with Citroen C4 and the appetite for clutches??
• Oh yes, there’s a manual gearbox, an automatic gearbox, and a robotized gearbox. And we know from other brands just how good the idea of a robotized gearbox is. It just doesn’t work.

Citroen C4 Verdict

The Citroen C4 is just another hatchback from the 2005 era, which europeans wanted very little and bought even less. Yes, it has a rather poor reputation thanks to the 1.6 diesel engine, but otherwise, it’s not a bad car. Sure, nobody wakes up in the morning with a burning desire to buy a Citroen C4, but if you want a hatchback from 2005 and you have 2000 euros with you, it might be at the top of your list. Just avoid that diesel mess of an engine.

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol, definitely the 1.6 MPI with 108 horsepower from the previous generation. And for diesel, the 2.0 HDi with 136 horsepower. Anything but the 1.6 HDi.

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Has anyone seen this car on the road recently? Maybe because there aren’t enough functional ones left? I mean, the Citroen C3 was a slightly unfortunate experiment, and the Citroen C2 is essentially half of the C3. Literally. Half the features, half the doors, half the boot. Only the price isn’t half, so the question arises why not buy a C3 or a C4 directly?

But somehow it fared well. That’s because there was the Citroen C2 VTS, which indeed was a glorious car, with an illustrious career in motorsport, cheap to buy and especially cheap to insure in countries with more criteria than just age and engine size. The Citroen C2 VTS reached over 200 km/h and needed just 8 seconds to go from 0 to 100 km/h, which meant you could comfortably challenge an E-Class 2.2 diesel with 170 horsepower. Not to mention the Motorsport versions and more specifically the Junior WRC where Sebastian Loeb chased it around in 2002.

All well and good, but most C2s weren’t sport versions. No, most C2s were either 1.1 petrol or 1.4 diesel, and they reached 0-100 km/h in 15 – 17 seconds (even the Range Rover P38 leaves you in the dust), and some even had power steering. Many of them didn’t. Seriously now, leaving aside the exaggeration, the base model had a CD player, power steering, and that’s it. If you added air conditioning, it would increase the 0-100 km/h acceleration time from 15 seconds to 17 seconds, but who cares about 2 seconds in that range. Although those 2 seconds might matter because that’s 2 extra seconds you’re forced to look at that interior.

Citroen C2 Engines

Petrol

• 1.1 MPI TU1 of 60 horsepower – Yes, this is the engine that comes with the no frills package. But at least it’s reliable, or better said, it works even without various components like the catalytic converter or intake manifold. Components that will inevitably fail but won’t affect this engine.
• 1.4 MPI TU4 of 73 and 88 horsepower – Honestly, the 73 horsepower version is the most balanced engine on the Citroen C2 and came with all the necessary features for a car like this. The engine mounts wear out prematurely, but that’s all the fun on the repair side, and it was also a very popular engine in the Citroen and Peugeot world, so I recommend it.
• 1.6 MPI TU5 of 125 horsepower – The famous Citroen C2 VTS, but I don’t know anyone who thinks about a Citroen C2 sport in 2024 or any kind of Citroen Sport. Except for the DS3 Racing. The thing is, they’re somewhat collectible now and cost a fortune. Plus, the intake manifold screws fall out while driving.

Diesel

• 1.4 HDi DV4 of 68 horsepower – At least if they had given it one more horsepower to make it 69 and give you a reason to buy it. But like this? If you’re buying it anyway, don’t forget to buy the complementary set of injectors and the injector spares for the complementary set of injectors.
• 1.6 HDi DV6 of 109 horsepower – I don’t understand why they didn’t put the 90 horsepower version, more accessible, you know, and went straight for the 109 horsepower madness. Probably so you go to the repair shop faster to change the turbo filter because if you don’t change the filter, you’ll change the turbo at every two traffic lights. And between two turbo, you’ll also change an injector. I could talk about this engine for days on end.

Citroen C2 Reliability Issues

• The rear brakes wear out prematurely in the sense that the brake pads stick to the disc just like gum sticks to sneakers or mold sticks to walls.
• The Sensodyne semi-automatic gearbox won’t whiten your teeth, but it will whiten your hair instead with all the issues it causes.
• The power steering is the same, but there you have to investigate between the steering column, the power steering pump, and the other auxiliaries. Good luck!
• The boot is nonexistent, but you don’t have to be Neil DeGrasse Tyson to realize that. I tried to fit a USB stick inside the boot, but after half an hour I gave up.
• That interior reminds me of depression. If it were a medication, it would be diazepam. If it were franchise, it would be McDonald’s. If it were food, it would be a hospital menu, put together by a cook after stealing everything good, and you’re left with what would be given to a pig. If it were a TV show character, it would be Toby Flenderson.

Citroen C2 Verdict

Did I really manage to write 900 words about this automotive failure? Maybe it was popular in other countries, but clearly not here. It was a bad Citroen in a VW country. I’m thinking that today it would have broken the delivery world’s back, but it seems that time has been ruthless with these cars, and today you hardly see them. Which is not necessarily a loss.

What engines do I recommend? For petrol, definitely the 1.4 MPI with 73 horsepower, and for diesel, I don’t recommend any. At most, the 1.4 HDi with 68 horsepower, despite all its problems.

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Not just because the Citroen C3 FC is one of the worst cars you can buy right now. It’s a true almost car. A sort of larger but poorly built Peugeot 206. And yes, they are built on the same platform, Citroen C3 FC and Peugeot 206. Except that Citroen C3 FC is weaker in terms of reliability and comes with fewer engine options and fewer features. Which would be okay if you had a simple but at least a reliable car like the Logan, but the Citroen C3 FC isn’t even reliable. You can rely on it as much as you can rely on a friend to give you back your money. 

I could say more about this tent on wheels, but I’m afraid I’ll run out of internet bandwidth. Sure, all the amateurs will come out saying they have a Citroen C3 FC and haven’t replaced anything in 500,000 miles, not even the diesel fuel from their petrol engine, but the reality remains. This tent on wheels was one of the low points for the French, and I really can’t say anything good about this car.

However, from the underwater comes the good part of the Citroen C3 FC. It’s a cheap car overall, which means it’s cheap to buy. Yes, you rarely find one that isn’t scratched or where all the body panels are the same color and shade, but at least it’s a cheap car.

And the petrol engines are small, reliable, and economical. In practice, the Citroen C3 FC is a real rival to the Honda Jazz, another car for women who drive out of necessity, have a phobia of cars and 1500 euros in their pocket for a car to take them from home to work and back. And that was exactly the idea the French had when they built the Citroen C3 and especially the C3 Pluriel, which is indeed a tent on wheels in the sense that you can dismantle and assemble it anytime you want, even while driving. And it has acres of windows and good visibility. Not that it will help you when you inevitably hit one of those orange poles and end up like Jeremy Clarkson – “Oh no! Anyway….”

Citroen C3 FC Engines

Petrol

• 1.1 MPI TU1 of 60 horsepower – Honestly, for the city pottering you don’t need more than that. Sure, it has occasional issues with catalytic converters, but it’s very unlikely you’ll notice or care about such things.
• 1.4 MPI TU4 of 75 and 90 horsepower – This is the most balanced engine for the Citroen C3 FC, at least let this one be balanced because the car itself isn’t. It doesn’t have specific issues except for premature wear of the engine mounts, which cost more in labor than the mounts themselves. And it’s also a quite popular engine.
• 1.6 MPI TU5 of 109 horsepower – Better known for the performance of larger cars like the 406, this engine was too expensive for the Citroen C3 so good luck finding one. And if you find one, check the PCV valve because that’s the only weak point.

Diesel

• 1.4 HDi DV4 of 90 and 92 horsepower – The 90-horsepower one is Euro 3 and is somewhat decent, but the 92 horsepower one is the famous 1.4 HDi that takes a bite out of injectors just like Scruff McGruff took a bite out of crime. If you have a bizarre fetish for replacing injectors on a weekly basis, this is the engine for you.
• 1.6 HDi DV6 of 109 horsepower – Yes, that 1.6 HDi that ruined the reputation of Citroen, Peugeot, Ford, Volvo, and wherever else it had the chance to be mounted. Eats fewer injectors than the 1.4 HDi but eats turbos instead if you don’t change the filter that deals with the oil route to the turbo. We discussed extensively in the Ford Focus review.

Citroen C3 FC Reliability Issues

• The Sensodyne automatic gearbox…that, Sensodrive is just as miserable as the rest of the car, so it practically stays in line with the Citroen C3 theme and you can easily opt for something like that.
• The interior is as equipped and resistant as a student dorm room. But it shouldn’t stop you from dropping a button or peeling off the dashboard. Or breaking the gear lever. Or the glove compartment.
• Issues also with steering, steering column, power steering pump, and anything related to steering.
• Electrical issues everywhere, including steering and plastic. Yes, it’s that bad. But at least the steering wheel, pedals, brakes, and gear lever work, and what more do you need from a car?

Citroen C3 FC Verdict

Simple and cheap, ideal for a city car you don’t care about. The Citroen C3 doesn’t have the best reputation, but at least you see that they still survive on the streets, whether driven by women who don’t know or delivery drivers who don’t care. If you want a flawless car that works 100% of the time, forget about the first C3. But if you want a car that works no matter what and you don’t mind if it squeaks around the corners or that button doesn’t work, the Citroen C3 FC can be an excellent runaround car.

Which engines do I recommend? For gasoline, I recommend the 1.4 MPI with 90 horsepower, but the 1.1 MPI with 60 horsepower is also good, and for diesel, definitely the 1.6 HDi with 109 horsepower.

The story begins somewhere before 2007 when Mitsubishi was seeking a potential market and PSA wanted a slice of the SUV-crossover cake because they had nothing at the time, and in 2004 the X3 had arrived, followed in 2005 by the third generation Rav4, and they took the car market by storm, and that’s how the bonanza began. The heavyweights soon arrived, namely the Audi Q5, Mercedes GLK, and perhaps the most important recent crossover that truly ignited the whole mania – the Nissan Qashqai. And so the thief met… wait, not that… the Japanese met the French, they made a pot of sake and garlic soup, and in 2007, the Mitsubishi Outlander – Peugeot 4007 – Citroen C-Crosser trio emerged. Like at a civil wedding where you’re not sure what to buy and if you should pay cash directly, everyone brought something. The Japanese brought the engines, Peugeot brought the design, and Citroen took care of the interior design because the SUV also came in a 7-seat configuration (inspired by the C4 Picasso), and the interior is optimized in terms of storage spaces.

Why a C-Crosser and not the other two?

I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but the C-Crosser is the last one on the list of reviews, and it’s quite difficult to write the same review three times but behold, in life, everything is possible if you have enough booze by your side. If back when they were new the only differences were the badge and the options list between manufacturers, today the C-Crosser stands out on the second-hand market as the most exclusive, not to say the worst-selling of them all. Seriously, the Outlander sold like Sasha Grey movies, the 4007 did somewhat decently, and the Citroen C-Crosser sold the least.

Why wasn’t it a commercial success?

Because nobody knew what a C-Crosser was, and the French didn’t bother much to market it and explain what it was about. Plus, initially, it was supposed to be called the Citroen C7, which was somewhat familiar to typical buyers, but with this name and face, nobody understood anything. The car is way too spartan and utilitarian for a Citroen. Mitsubishi, in general, seems to be sponsored by Sparta, and with Peugeot, you can see simplicity in the interior, but with Citroen, you never see anything standard. Handbrake on the ceiling, vertical engines, nothing really makes sense on a Citroen. And to come with a spartan car and present it as a Citroen is a recipe for disaster.

And now comes the positive part because I won’t leave it alone in the tough times, as it seems from the classifieds that the Citroen C-Crosser was bought quite modestly but by private buyers who bought the car for themselves. I also noticed that most of the 3 models for sale come with most of the equipment, and one of them is fully loaded, so if you want a “for the picky” C-Crosser and are willing to pay extra for a well-maintained and well-equipped car, then the C-Crosser is the best of the trio.

Citroen C-Crosser Engines

Petrol

2.4 4B12 with 140 horsepower – This MIVEC engine brought to the table by the Japanese is very good and nice, only that nobody bought it. Not in Europe, at least, where we all want only diesel, we want good fuel economy, and we don’t want to pay taxes, but we want big cars with small engines. But if you do have a bizarre fetish with this engine, go for it, replace the O2 sensor, fill it up with quality petrol and enjoy the ride.

Diesel

2.2 DW12 with 156 horsepower – The French didn’t bother with another engine, and frankly, they didn’t have to. The legendary 2.2 diesel DW12 with a single turbo is up there with the 2.2 diesel from Mercedes and is a fantastic, reliable engine that you can buy with confidence. In fact, it’s so good that it was fitted on the Freelander and the Evoque. The only specific issue is the crankshaft seal that cracks and leaks oil, and you don’t want to know what happens next. No, don’t insist.

Citroen C-Crosser Reliability Issues

• The manual gearbox is not very good for towing because it’s geared very short, but here I’m referring to serious stuff, not necessarily a 750 kg trailer.
• Yes, there’s the 7-seat version, but the rear seats are fun sized. I wouldn’t necessarily buy a C-Crosser for this option, but it’s good to know you have it and you can put some friends or relatives you can’t stand in the back for short distances.

Citroen C-Crosser Verdict

The Citroen C-Crosser remains the best-maintained and most expensive of the trio because it was mainly bought by private individuals, and many of them were even bought here in Romania. People who today drive a Toyota Highlander or a Ssanyong Korando were buying a new C-Crosser back in 2010. It’s not the latest trend, but it’s not the last poverty either. Honest, decent cars that have been taken care of. So if you have fireflies telling you that a car from 2010 should be new when you buy it in 2023, with the Citroen C-Crosser, you have the best chances among the Japanese-French SUV trio.

Which engines do I recommend? Anyway, you only have a 2.4 petrol with 140 horsepower and a 2.2 diesel with 156 horsepower, and both are good.

That goes for the VW Phaeton and possibly the Audi A8 as well. The Citroen C6 was the epitome of luxury for its time, yet it remains such an anonymous car that you’ve probably only seen it on TV while it chauffeured Jacques Chirac or Nicolas Sarkozy. Many consider the Citroen C6 the French S-Class, and they’re almost right, but this is an almost article about almost cars because, in fact, I’m a pastry chef who, in my spare time, does carpentry and pottery so what do I know about cars.

They’re almost right because the Citroen C6 comes with more technology than even the W221 S-Class, which was launched around the same time, but the approach is slightly different. If the S-Class came with proposals for both comfort and sportiness, the Citroen C6 went straight into the comfort zone and stayed there, sleeping on a memory foam mattress, wrapped in an alpaca wool blanket, with its head on a goose feather pillow.  That’s the Citroen C6. Yes, we don’t have engines with 1000 liters and 5 billion horsepower, we have engines only up to 3 litres displacement. But that’s because you don’t need more power in order to cruise.

Citroen C6 Engines

Petrol

3.0 V6 ES9 of 208 horsepower – The only petrol engine available on the Citroen C6 occasionally has issues with coil packs, the front catalytic converter, and the timing chain job. Still, good luck finding one because it literally has nothing to do with the Citroen C6 and it’s way rarer than it should be. But then again, too few people look at a C6 and say “mmm, yes, this is the car I want to drive aggresivelly in”

Diesel

• 2.2 HDi DW12 of 170 horsepower – The legendary 2.2 HDi DW12C with a single turbo was one of the most reliable diesel engines of the recent period. In fact, it was so good that it was also used on the Mitsubishi Outlander as part of the alliance but was also purchased by Jaguar to be mounted on the XF. Think twice before deciding to use it for the city driving, because it will punish you with the particle filter, flywheel, and injectors. Keep it on long journeys, as that’s what it was built for. And this is the DW12B, the older version with two turbos, so be very careful with the turbos because they were the main reason for switching to a single turbo design, made of titanium.
• 2.7 HDi AJD of 204 horsepower – Another legendary engine, mounted on all the big cars in the PSA group, but it was even more famous in the Jaguar Land Rover group. Yes, sure, it was mounted on some Jaguars here and there, but the pièce de résistance is the Range Rover Sport and the occasional Discovery. There are a few issues there, but with the Citroen C6, you just need to be careful with the expansion tank and the coolant level, and there have been a few rare cases where the crankshaft broke worse than my previous relationship. But that’s more for Land Rover because they played Bejeweled and rearranged the location of the parts.
• 3.0 HDi AJD of 240 horsepower – This came to retire the 2.7 HDi diesel, but by the time it arrived, it was already too late. Like in that joke with the fly buzzing in the field, and at some point, it flies into a horse’s mouth. And it keeps begging the horse to let it go, and it keeps begging and insisting, but in vain, the horse is gone… That’s how it is with this engine; good luck finding it. But if you do find it, you have to think that it’s very reliable, but if it breaks, you won’t find neither parts nor mechanics.

Citroen C6 Reliability Issues 

• Good luck finding mechanics and parts. The Citroen C6 is a rare but also very complex car, being the bane of mechanics. And the Citroen C6 really came with technology that rivaled the S-Class, coming with hydropneumatic suspension, Heads-Up Display, Lane Departure Assist, adaptive LED headlights, a hood lifting system in case of pedestrian impact, and many other options that are only becoming popular today, over 20 years after the concept was launched. And that means that in the rare moments when it breaks down, you’ll have to go to the dealership.
• The ABS sensors at the wheels are sensitive to bad roads, but at least you know why the ABS will light up on on the dashboard every two days.
• It’s visible from satellite that it’s a presidential car, built specifically to chauffeured celebrities, businessmen, and presidents. More precisely, the passengers in the back. Care for the driver is much lower than for those in the back, and this is evident in the rather bland dashboard, the cramped space compared to those in the back, but especially when you have to drive and park it. You literally have to be paid to drive and park a Citroen C6, it’s that big. And some cheaper versions don’t even have parking sensors, so you’re on your own.

Citroen C6 Verdict 

And then comes the strongest part of the Citroen C6 – the hydropneumatic suspension. Citroen already has over 50 years of experience in this field, and it shows for the C6, a car that probably has the most comfortable suspension for a car under 200,000 GBP. And probably the most complicated suspension for a car under 200,000 GBP.

The idea is that around 2004 the folks at Toyota Egypt thought that the Camry might be too large for Europe, especially because it had big engines to back up the looks. They believed that Europeans might not be so interested in a 3.0-litre 210 horsepower petrol, especially with the diesel onslaught led by the VW Golf IV and VW Passat B5.5 at the time. However, you can’t just put a 1.6 litre petrol or worse, a 2.0 litre diesel in a Camry, which is as big as a medium sized restaurant, so they attempted a monochromatic experiment and launched the Toyota Avensis T250. They continued with the Avensis T270, but sales were thinner than the Olsen twins, and it was eventually retired from the programme grille. So, they were left without a large saloon, and the entire brand was held together only by the Corolla. As if anyone buys saloons these days, just look at the Mondeo.

And so, the Toyota Camry returned to Europe, and it made quite a stir at its 2019 launch. The Toyota Camry XV70 was the largest saloon for the Portuguese and looked light years ahead of what the Senegalese at Toyota had in their portfolio until then. It’s built on the Lexus ES platform and is essentially 80% of a Lexus ES at 66% of the price, making it an interesting proposition on paper. But is it?

First, we have a price issue. Due to EU taxes, Toyota’s prices are above the market average. As of the time I wrote this article, the Toyota Camry XV70 started at 39,000 pounds and went up to 45,000 pounds. In fact, you know what, there are three major issues with the Toyota Camry XV70, and all three are related to the price. That’s the first issue because it’s just too expensive.

The second issue caused by the price is that the type of person who has to spend 40,000 to 45,000 pounds on a new saloon might not consider Toyota because Toyota doesn’t necessarily offer the social status that an Audi A4, a 3 Series, or an Arteon( C class is on another frequency) provides. Because, guess what, the Camry XV70 costs as much as a mid-range 3 Series, it costs as much as an Arteon, and it’s cheaper than the cheapest Audi A4.

Perhaps the most problematic and larger (literally) rival is Toyota’s own RAV4. Sure, it’s slightly cheaper than the Camry, but only in the basic configuration. However, at the 45,000 pounds mark they are somewhat closer. We live in times when the sedan is out of fashion because everyone is obsessed with crossovers. I’m not putting the Camry ahead of the whole execution squad composed of the Tucson, Sportage, Arkana, Tiguan, 3008, and others. No, I’m only comparing it to the RAV4. And even though the RAV4 is more expensive, in this price range, people might make an extra effort and go for the cross-over. Because the kind of person who buys a Toyota does it with the idea of passing it on as an heirloom to their grandchildren. Or even worse, you could get a Corolla Cross that costs about the same as a Camry in equivalent trim levels and equipment and be even more money efficient about it.

So, why is it selling? That’s the issue; it’s not selling. Even though it offers features and equipment equivalent to an all-inclusive package at the 40,000 to 45,000 GBP price range, depending on the three available trim levels. It’s essentially a less prestigious Lexus ES, but much cheaper. It’s the kind of car for people who want a lot of luxury but also want to be discreet. In practice, the Camry is somewhat like the Phaeton of midsize cars. But do people still look for luxurious yet discreet/anonymous cars these days?

Toyota Camry XV70 Engines

Petrol

• 2.0 6AR-FSE and M20A-FKS of 165 and 176 horsepower – Borrowed from the Corolla, the old 165 horsepower 6AR-FSE comes with a classic automagic gearbox, whereas the newer M20A-FKS comes with a dreary CVT so I know which one I’m going for. Either way, it’s fine for the Corolla but for the Camry it’s abit of a stretch.
• 2.5 2AR-FE and A25A-FKS of 178 and 203 horsepower – The good old 2AR-FE and it’s 178 horsepower muscle was carried over from the previous generation and sold in some countries and it’s fine as long as you keep the oil consumption in check. As for the 203 horsepower engine, it’s a decent engine with little known issues.
• 3.5 V6 2GR-FKS of 301 horsepower – I’ve talked alot about this engine in the Lexus RX review and the main gist is that if you feed it on time with oil, spark plugs, coil packs and water pumps, it will outlive you. Definatelly the best engine for the Camry, if you live in a country where petrol is cheaper than water.

Hybrid

2.5-liter hybrid gasoline engine A25A-FXS of 208 horsepower  – Essentially, it’s the same hybrid engine that Lexus has been using for a while, and I discussed it in the NX review. However, I complained there because it’s not a sporty engine, and you’d expect the NX to be somewhat sporty. But the Camry is a car for comfort and long drives, for people who want to be transported quietly and without haste. With this engine, this person won’t have to stop at the petrol station very often because the engine has been adapted specifically to operate on the Atkinson cycle, which sacrifices performance for fuel efficiency. Sure, it doesn’t go very fast, but it goes a long way. Additionally, Toyota offers a 10-year warranty for the batteries, and if the model was launched in 2019, you don’t have to worry. The CVT gearbox is a major downside when it comes to sportiness, but you don’t care anyway. Not in a Camry.

Toyota Camry XV70 Reliability Issues

• The infotainment system is technologically outdated, and the initial units can’t even be updated. So, press a few buttons and see if you can live with this system.
• Rear headroom is limited, especially if you have a panoramic roof, in which case you’ll have to open the door, get on the floor, everybody walk the dinosaur. 
• The Toyota Camry XV70 has American roots and is related to the Lexus ES, which means it’s fabulous on straight roads but not necessarily agile in corners. 

Toyota Camry XV70 Verdict

Even though it’s related to the Lexus ES, the Toyota Camry XV70 is more of a spiritual successor to the VW Phaeton. If you’re looking for a comfortable, luxurious, large, and reliable car and don’t put too much emphasis on the badge, then it’s very hard to beat the Camry. And if you add the requirement that the car should be discreet, then the Camry beats the competition just like Zinedine Zidane beat Marco Materazzi.

What engines do I recommend? You only have the 2.5-liter 210-horsepower hybrid, so you’ll have to accept it as it is. And it won’t be that difficult, because the engine suits the car’s character well.

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By 2004 we didn’t really have time for SUVs. We were busy watching The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King, a very popular phrase among Audi A4 owners who printed “The Lord of the Rings” under the badge of the car, so that you know exactly what car they drive, what status they have and especially what education and what a culture they have, as exquisite Lord of the Rings fans

Usher was riding the wave of confessions, Mark Zuckerberg officially launches Facebook and Kanye West debuts with the “College drop-out” album. It was obvious that something had to happen in the automotive world, and Kia Sportage KM and Hyundai Tucson JM appear for the first time.

These two SUVs contributed a lot to the advent of the almost cross-over cars, paving the way for the Nissan Qashqai 2 years before its miserable arrival. These two SUVs were capable of soft off-roading, they were reliable and they were very cheap. Yes, of course, you also had the Toyota Rav4 and the Land Rover Freelander as options, but those cost so much that you said #yolo and if you added 500 pounds and 2 bottles of Sherindan’s to your budget, you could’ve bought a Touareg.

And today the Tucson and the Duster are still pulling each other by their private parts, and the Kia Sportage KM is somewhere around there, in the shadows. It’s cheap, it’s capable and it’s relatively reliable.

Kia Sportage KM Engines

Petrol

• 2.0 MPI G4GC of 140 horsepower – Not too bad of a start. If you also strap an LPG installation on it it’s even going to be reasonably economical on fuel. There are cases in which this engine refuses to start and the mechanics cannot find a solution. But in general they are reliable engines. Also, make sure to replace the VVT timing chain from time to time.
• 2.7 V6 G6BA of 179 horsepower – Hyundai warranties a minimum of 450,000,000 miles for this engine. This is if you take care of the intake flaps that break and fall into the engine, giving it a severe concussion. And if you take care to replace the timing belt on time, because a broken belt will give the engine a concussion, a blow to the testicles and a sudden death

Diesel

2.0 CRDI D4EA of 113 and 140 horsepower – The 113 horsepower  one comes with a single mass flywheel and the Euro 3 emissions standard. The 140 comes with a double mass flywheel (expensive), particle filter (even more expensive) but at least it’s Euro 3 compliant. Both have issues with the camshaft sensor failing and the 140 one is much more expensive to run than the 113 horse piece of antiquity. An engine used everywhere in the Hyundai-Kia family, this is also the most popular engine on the Kia Sportage KM.

Kia Sportage KM Reliability Issues

• The manual gearbox is prone to failing, especially in combination with diesel engines. As for the automatic gearbox, pay close attention to the oil change, which must be changed every 60,000 km. With the automatic gearbox you don’t have a flywheel or clutch so that’s quite the expense avoided, but you only have 4 speeds and you also get a much worse fuel mileage. 
• The propshaft is prone to failure and it will fail. When it fails, and it will fail, you better be awake and have money set aside.
• Kia Sportage KM eats tires and brakes at the same speed as a student eats food from home when he returns from college for the a break.
• Like any SUV that’s somewhat capable, it needs a lift inspection to check if the car hasn’t been hit underneath. This is if you care about the car and don’t buy it just because you found a bargain and why not??

Kia Sportage KM Verdict

It is not the city car that the next generation represents. Instead, it’s a great family car, which is capable of soft off-roading and which is relatively cheap to run. Although there will never be “SUV” and “cheap to run” in the same sentence, if you are serious. I personally recommend it as “my first SUV”, but don’t have as high expectations from the car as my girlfriend’s expectations when she watched Breaking Bad. “Why would I look at a bald guy who lives in a trailer and coughs every 2 frames?” and with that she asked for her money back for the Netflix account. Or like when I showed a friend an episode of Wife Swap and she said “why should I watch this show? I already know how to argue with my husband, I don’t need advice on how to do it”.

What engine do I recommend? For the Kia Sportage the market is divided between diesel and petrol. So I recommend the 2.0 petrol + LPG for the simple fact that it is cheaper in terms of parts and may also be a tad bit more economical, especially if we are talking about the models with automatic transmission. As for the diesel, the 113 horsepower one is terminally slow but it’s also way cheaper to run. 

The original Peugeot 2008 is a car that almost nobody has heard of and almost nobody bought for one simple reason – the Vauxhall Crossland. Yep, the Peugeot 2008 A94 and the original Crossland are sister cars, built on the same assembly lines, but with different looks, some differences in engines and features, and obviously price. It’s obvious that the Vauxhall Crossland was cheaper than the Peugeot 2008, and because you had the 1.6 diesel engine available, it was the perfect car for the kind of person who knows nothing about cars but wants an affordable crossover. For the average buyer, it didn’t make sense to pay extra for the Peugeot 2008 A94 and its frills, especially when an Vauxhall Crossland 1.6 diesel manual is all the non-enthusiast buyer needs. Maybe even in appliance white color, like most of the classifieds.

So why am I writing about a car more obscure than Jon Erin Marshall?

Well, because there’s room under the sun and internet bandwidth for all cars, and the Peugeot 2008 A94 wasn’t necessarily a bad car; it was just dull, and you could argue that it was a bit too expensive for what it offered. It was clear that the first 2008 was a low-effort car in conception because practically they took a 208, injected some botox into its rear, and slapped on a Cross package like with the Polo or the Fiesta, and that was it. The 2008 was more of an experiment in the crossover zone than a full-fledged effort, and this was evident in the sales figures. The next generation of the 2008 on the other hand was #1 in sales in Europe at one point…

Peugeot 2008 A94 Engines

Petrol

• 1.2 VTi EB2 of 82 hp, and 100 horsepower – Maybe it was good for a 208, but for a 2008, definitely not. It’s like trying to carry a refrigerator up the stairs. It will take a long time, and you’re very likely to hurt yourself. In any case, I’d avoid this engine altogether.
• 1.2 Turbo EB2ADTX of 110 hp and 130 horsepower – Now we move on to the same 1.2 VTi but the turbo version. Developed in collaboration with BMW for their MINI, the 1.2 Turbo “Prince” engine was initially trash, with issues with the camshaft and timing chains wrecking itself before checking itself. Fortunately, time took care of destroying the bad engines, and only the updated ones remained.
• 1.6 VTi EP6 of 120 horsepower – Unlike the 1.2, which has a more dubious past, the 1.6 VTi is a simple and reliable engine. Sure, it’s also prone to faulty coil packs and rattling/jumping timing chains which can still wreck the engine, but overall, it’s the least stressed and most reliable on the list.
• 1.6 Turbo EP6DT of 156 horsepower – Personally, I’d stick with the naturally aspirated engine because I don’t think anyone looks at a Peugeot 2008 A94 and says, “Mmm, yes, I need 156 horsepower for this beast. This car, with this engine, will definatelly show them.” But if you still insist on buying such a thing, be very careful with the timing chain, which can jump without warning. 

Diesel

• 1.4 HDi DV4 of 68 horsepower – Again, it’s an engine suitable for the 208, but for the 2008, I don’t know what to say. Especially not for 2024. In any case, at least it’s reliable.
• 1.6 HDi DV6 of 92 hp, 100 hp, 115 hp, and 120 horsepower – By far the most suitable and balanced engine for the Peugeot 2008 A94, this 1.6 HDi from Peugeot is exactly like that KFC snack box you buy because you’re hungry and you know it’s okay, and you don’t want to bother with anything more foreign because you don’t understand it anyway, and you don’t care.

Peugeot 2008 A94 Reliability Issues 

• The diesel engines are modern which means they break down at every traffic light if you only drive them in the city because the EGR valve and the particle filter clog up quickly. Besides that, the clutches last less than my dates with girls who realize who they went out with and then run out of the restaurant in horror and terror THE FASTER YOU RUN THE LOUDER IT WILL BE SO THERE’S NO POINT IN RUNNING. Oh, and be very careful with the eBlue-HDI ones because they have an AdBlue system, and you have to fuel them only with AdBlue from the dealership. And the Eolys additive.
• The semi-automatic gearbox on pre-facelift models is to be avoided EVEN MORE THAN GIRLS WHO AVOID ME AFTER GOING OUT WITH ME AND THEN DON’T WANT TO HEAR FROM ME PLEASE UNBLOCK ME I’M TELLING YOU.
• The starter motor is the first sensitive point I’m talking about on the electrical side. It’s a Peugeot, so you’ll have a bunch of electrical issues, but nothing that will leave you stranded.
• The parking brake cable, on the other hand, can leave you stranded in the parking lot. There were some issues with that, and there was a recall, but you never know.
• The interior plastics are low-cost, even though the Peugeot 2008 A94  is not really a low-cost car, but it has the aura of a low-cost car. A scratch here, a cricket there, that sort of thing.

Peugeot 2008 A94 Verdict 

The second reason I wrote about the original Peugeot 2008 is that now I have a solid reason to write about the follow up, a car that stormed the European car market. But the original 2008? It’s an honest car, one you buy on a whim and about which you know nothing, and it will leave you with at least a decent impression. Not “wow,” but decent. It’s a car and that’s it. But cars like that are what matter in the big car market, so yeah, I recommend this car, especially for the prices it asks.

Which engines do I recommend? For gasoline, any power variant of the 1.6 VTi, but the most balanced one remains the 1.6 HDi with either 100 or 115 horsepower.

Normally, I should be careful about what I write about the Skoda Octavia NX, just as I had to be careful about what I wrote in that Human Resources report regarding verbal, sexual, meta-sexual aggression, indecent exposure, and other things I don’t want to talk about, which the Human Resources department considers “confidential.” But I won’t do that.

Because the national car of eastern europeans who constantly look out for bargains, because they can’t afford more but still want to look wealthier than they are, changed its tune in 2019 and we were left with a sour taste. And with that, I have to write an article differently for the eastern europeans than for the international market because eastern europeans are a different species of human.

The basic idea being that the Skoda Octavia NX had to adapt to the times, and the VW Group threw features into the Octavia just like Gordon Ramsay and the chef at Clubway 41 threw insults at each other, including the famous “Plonka” and thus we have dual-zone automatic climate control… not voices. Zones. Heads-up Display. Two-spoke steering wheel. Matrix-LED headlights stolen from the Audi A6. Progressive steering. And here comes the biggest issue – it starts at 26,000 pounds at the moment I wrote this article. And that’s for a manual 110 horsepower 1.0 TSI. Which strongly ventures out of the low-cost car zone and with that, it chased away its core clientele. I mean, a Renault Megane IV saloon starts at 19,000 pounds and comes with a 140 horsepower 1.3 TCe turbocharged petrol, the Toyota Corolla saloon starts at 22,000 pounds and comes with a 125 horsepower 1.5 naturally aspirated petrol engine . Fudge it, the Suzuki Swace 1.8 gasoline hybrid and estate starts at 26,850 pounds.

So is it worth buying the Octavia?

Yes, because things are starting to pick up just like you recover from a hangover 3 days after drinking. As a new buy, the Skoda Octavia NX is no longer as attractive as Sofia Boutella. But hae a look in the classifieds and the Skoda Octavia NX remains one of the last classic family cars – the classic estate. Personally, I wouldn’t bother with the Octavia sedan because it’s too expensive for what it offers and the competition is much better, but for the estate version, as a vacation and family car, the Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDI manual estate remains one of the most solid options on the market, especially in these times like my eyes – murky and empty. The only real rivals are the Renault Megane, but the Megane is limited to the 1.6 diesel, and the VW Passat. But the Octavia does 80% of what the Passat does but at 70% of the price, and anyway, when you have an estate like this, you don’t want expensive features like leather and adjustable air conditioning for the rear seats or any kind of feature that can be reached and destroyed by toddlers.

Skoda Octavia NX Engines

Petrol

• 1.0 TSI with 110 horsepower – No.
• 1.5 TSI ACT with 130 and 150 horsepower – Yes, there’s also the 130 horsepower CNG version, but if you can’t handle the pressure, I’d avoid it. In fact, I’d also avoid the 150 horsepower TSI because both this engine and the 1.0 TSI are oil enthusiasts. 
• 2.0 TSI with 190 and 245 horsepower – Indeed, sensational engines, but the market for the Octavia 2.0 TSI is smaller than my budget for this online septic tank. Apart from the specific oil consumption of the VAG group, you shouldn’t have any concerns, and it doesn’t matter that much when you have 200 horsepower at your disposal.

Diesel

2.0 TDI with 116 and 150 horsepower – Honestly, this is the only engine they needed to sell the Octavia NX with because the old 1.6 TDI from the previous generation was retired. And they needed to keep a reason for people to buy the Passat, so you don’t get the 190 horsepower version on the Octavia. But for the average family buyer, the 116 horsepower version is all the engine they’ll ever need. It’s reliable, it’s decent, just don’t drive it too often in the city because the DPF will clog up, and the flywheel will fail more often than you expect.

Hybrid

1.4 TSI Plug-in Hybrid with 204 and 245 horsepower – I would talk about the hybrid engine, but unfortunately, everyone has turned to the 2.0 TDI because that engine makes the most sense. As for the hybrid engine, there are issues with the hybrid system’s charging, so I wouldn’t venture into it alone. You’ll regret it.

Skoda Octavia NX Reliability Issues 

• Unfortunately, VW threw options and sensors into the Octavia but forgot to test them, so get used to the Christmas tree on the dashboard. Constant issues with the infotainment and sensors, and the Octavia NX has sensors for sensors.
• Currently, the model is too new to discuss this, but the Octavia has a long history of rust, so brace yourself for the future.
• Yes, there are a lot of toys and options on the Octavia NX, but they all cost, because it’s VW and THE FLOOR MATS ARE OPTIONAL.

Skoda Octavia NX Verdict 

It might be the last call, the final hurrah for the estate as a car and for the Octavia in general, so make the most of it. And I stick to the idea from the beginning, the Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDI with 116 horsepower and a manual gearbox at it’s disposal, and estate bodywork remains one of the last classic cars of “I’m 45 years old, I have 2 kids, I’ve given up on my dreams, but at least we go for a ride every month.” It definitely doesn’t appeal to me, but for this category of buyers, it’s one of the last shouts of the industry.

Which engines do I recommend? For petrol, the 115 horsepower 1.0 TSI even if it’s underpowered and an oily boy, but all the interest revolves around the 2.0 TDI, and honestly, the 116 horsepower version is all the family guy needs.

One of the reasons is that the Skoda Kodiaq NS7 is one of my favorite cars. It reminds me of the original Audi Q7, only modernized and with much more sensible running costs. Launched around 2016, the Skoda Kodiaq was truly an automotive Leroy Jenkins and Skoda’s first shipping container on wheels. Well, not exactly Skoda’s first step because essentially here we have a second-generation Tiguan, which was rebadged as the Kodiaq for Skoda and Taraco for Seat, and they all sit on the Jetta platform, a kind of Jetta’s final gift before its inevitable and irrevocable retirement.

The second reason it’s worth as much as 50,000 pounds is that it’s a reliable car with few specific issues. Which is a big deal for a VW, a brand where you’re not always certain you’ll reach your destination, even with a new car. Moreover, you have decent petrol and diesel engines, you have a 4×4 system, automatic transmission, and even 7 seats. And if you’re smart enough to realize it’s not a sports car and you don’t venture into the Sportline and RS area, you can go down to 40,000 pounds, the equivalent of 2 Dacia Dusters. Is a Skoda Kodiaq 2.0 TDI 200 horsepower 4×4 DSG twice as good as a Dacia Duster 1.3 TCe 140 horsepower 4×4 EDC? Well, the Kodiaq has 7 seats versus the Duster’s 5 seats, so it’s 50% better from the start.

Are there any downsides to this car? Because I’ve been praising it too much.

Yes, there are downsides, and I’m not necessarily referring to general issues. At VW, everything is optional, even the pedals. The VW Group is very modest in standard equipment, to make you spend more money for a more decent level of equipment, and I guess that’s also a marketing strategy. Very few in the industry make base models as basic as VW does. And it’s the same here. The base Skoda Kodiaq starts at 34,700 pounds at the moment of writing, and for that you get 5 seats, a 1.5 TSI petrol engine with a manual transmission and 150 horsepower. An Octavia with the same level of equipment and the same 1.5 TSI manual starts at 26,000 pounds. And here comes the question of why buy a barebones Kodiaq when you can buy an identical Octavia in terms of equipment and engine, and still have money for a 3-day vacation? And in the Kodiaq, the floor mats are optional, as well as the isoFIX, optional heated front seats, optional heated windshield. You don’t even get Bluetooth in the car, just a Bluetooth set-up kit. And I don’t know about you, but asking for 35,000 pounds for a car and not even providing floor mats, well, that sounds abit of a muggery.

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Skoda Kodiaq NS7 Engines

Petrol

• 1.4 TSI EA211 of 125 and 150 horsepower – The 125 horsepower version was only put there for brochures with the text “The New Skoda Kodiaq, starting at …”. And it was as effective at moving the Kodiaq’s rear end as Graham Norton is good at electrical and plumbing. The 150 horsepower one on the other hand is probably the most balanced petrol engine on the Kodiaq, and I do recommend it.
• 1.5 TSI EA211 of 150 horsepower – Except that the 1.4 TSI has been replaced by this engine, which is notorious for oil consumption and it’s kangarooing effect when paired with the automagic, so I don’t know what to say.
• 2.0 TSI EA888 of 180, 190, and 220 horsepower – Normally I would recommend this engine in all its glory, but then reality hits me, and I remember I was writing about the Skoda Kodiaq, which is a car as sporty as Patrizia Paglieri, and secondly, this engine is reserved for the sport editions, which start at 40,000 pounds. But at least it’s reliable.

Diesel

2.0 TDI EA288 of 150, 190, 200, and 240 horsepower – The official engine of VW buyers in general, the 150 horsepower 2.0 TDI is the only one available with a manual gearbox and probably the most balanced choice for the family man who wants the biggest and most expensive Skoda but doesn’t want to be wild all the way.  Anyway, the 2.0 TDI is a modern diesel engine, meaning it doesn’t get along with city driving at all, so use it only for long trips, vacations, etc. Otherwise, you’ll have issues with the EGR, injectors, particulate filter, and so on.

Skoda Kodiaq NS7 Reliability Issues

• Even though it’s the last train, pay close attention to the DSG transmissions with wet clutches because those are the complicated DSGs. Since 2017, the dry clutch DSG has been introduced, and that should be somewhat more reliable. Probably.
• Electrical issues, quite a few of them because otherwise, it wouldn’t be a VW/Skoda. Headlights, the tailgate opening on its own, the AC sets whatever temperature it feels like, those kinds of issues. Fortunately, they won’t all happen at once.

Skoda Kodiaq NS7 Verdict

It’s one of the most expensive cars coming out of the Skoda gate. And yet, at 35,000 pounds you possibly get all the car your family needs. So yes, this poor-man’s Q7 is definitely worth the money, even if the floor mats are optional. They would probably make the seats optional too.

Which engines do I recommend? Clearly, the 1.4 TSI with 150 horsepower for petrol and the 2.0 TDI with 190 horsepower for diesel because the 150 one is a bit anemic if you burden it with 7 people, DSG, and 4×4.

A new day, a new Skoda. Except this one was the most important Skoda for them, because the Skoda Karoq NU7 sold so well that it kept Skoda afloat, and now that they’ve retired the Karoq, they are under greater stress than a real estate agent who tells you something in the ad and on the phone, and when you get to the location it’s something else entirely. I remember once I went to see an apartment that was advertised as a 2 bedroom and a list price of 65,000 pounds, but when I got there it was actually almost a 3 bedroom and 85,000 pounds. I say almost 3 bedroom because the seller had mounted a false wall in the middle of one of the rooms and divided it into two storage rooms / rooms, one of 5 square meters and one of 6 square meters, but he boasted that it was actually 3 bedrooms and asked for 85,000 pounds. And when they saw each other, they started arguing and eventually started throwing punches. The most entertaining viewing ever.

The car started new at around 22,000 pounds, and at the time I wrote these literary calamities, the cheapest Karoqs started at around 8,000 pounds, which says a lot about Karoq’s character, being the cheapest in the Karoq – T-Cross – Ateca trio. And for that, they applied the classic Skoda scheme by entering the market in force. Basically, the successor to the Yeti is the cheapest in terms of options, overall quality, dimensions, and engines. Which makes my job much easier because it’s always a challenge to write about the same car three times, especially when the differences are small.

And the discussion here is very simple because the Skoda Karoq feels best and most logical in the lower price and equipment range, the T-Cross feels best with the eternal 2.0 TDI, and the Ateca feels best with the sportier petrol engines. Nothing new so far honestly, because that’s the Skoda – VW – Seat recipe, a recipe that has been dated since the Code of Hammurabi, written somewhere around 1750 BC. So the Skoda Karoq NU7 feels best with a 1.0 TSI or a 1.6 TDI, with a manual gearbox and front-wheel drive because if you start adding options and toys to it, it will have bigger issues than the price (as is the case with the Duster) not only will it have reliability and structural issues altogether. It’s not a premium crossover and not even a mid-range crossover, it’s a cheap crossover and it should stay so because it’s very good at being cheap and cheerful but very bad at being expensive and good. It fares best in the middle of the organized chaos along with the Hyundai Kona, Kia Stonic, Ford Puma, Sandero Stepway, Mazda CX-3, Peugeot 3008, Mitsubishi ASX, and whatever else was launched this week. And it beats them all in terms of ground clearance and on some even in terms of interior space and boot space, and in terms of price, it’s right up there, meaning it’s among the cheapest. Attention, if you resist the temptation and only buy it with one of the two engines, with front-wheel drive and a manual gearbox. Anything beyond that, and Karoq’s proposal for your money falls as fast as a sack of potatoes from the attic.

Skoda Karoq NU7 Engines

Petrol

• 1.0 TSI EA211 of 110 and 116 horsepower – Yes, that 1.0 TSI that has oil consumption issues but is realistically the only petrol engine with which you can safely drive to the end of the street and which is sort of reliable. Plus, it’s also the cheapest, and in the case of Karoq, only money talks. And money talks to me, but I don’t hear it. 
• 1.5 TSI EA211 of 150 horsepower – I’ve talked about this engine a lot, and I don’t necessarily recommend it because 1. it burns oil, and 2. it moves from a standstill like I do at work. And it also has the habit of failing because I couldn’t find a better comparison term. I’m sorry. 

Diesel

• 1.6 TDI EA288 of 116 horsepower – The official “I don’t know anything about cars and I don’t want to either” engine. I’m not the biggest fan of the 1.6 TDI, even though its issues are now resolved. Sure, it’s still a very bad pick in the city because the EGR and DPF are made from the ambitions and aspirations of a 40-year-old employee who works from Monday to Friday from 9 to 18 and on Saturdays from 9 to 14, on minimum wage.
• 2.0 TDI EA288 of 116, 143, 150, and 190 horsepower – Yes, this engine is more robust than the 1.6 TDI, but it’s already becoming too expensive for what it offers, and honestly, I wouldn’t get a long-haul engine for the Karoq because it’s not that kind of car. I mean, it’s good for a vacation and an occasional ride, but the 2.0 TDI is a constant long-haul engine, not occasional.

Skoda Karoq NU7 Reliability Issues

• The boot seal wear out and it rains in the boot, in a good old fashioned Ford way. So check the boot seals and especially the spare wheel area so it doesn’t become the set for filming Spongebob Squarepants.
• The DSG7 automatic gearbox is a recurring theme, and unfortunately, the recipe applies to the Skoda Karoq as well, especially in the case of the 1.5 TSI where it doesn’t crawl to start from a standstill, it doesn’t start at all. As I said, if you start climbing the options ladder, it will hurt you like when you do a prostate exam and the doctor holds both hands on your back.
• The SOS system breaks down and then takes the Bluetooth and navigation for a walk too.
• The plastic on the interior reminds you of the first Fabia, but after all that’s the whole idea of Karoq, a simple and sturdy car that does its job honestly. Now if I sit and think that the Fabia was withdrawn from the lineup, the Karoq is a slightly taller Fabia.
• The tiny boot, especially for the 4×4 versions. I mean, the Karoq already has less bootspace than the Ateca and T-Cross, and the 4×4 drivetrain eats up even more space. Another reason why Karoq deserves your money only in the most in the basic trim line.

Skoda Karoq NU7 Verdict

I’m sticking to the basic idea that the Skoda Karoq NU7 is the best purchase if you stick to the smallest engine (petrol or diesel), manual gearbox, and front-wheel drive. Otherwise, it’s not worth complicating things, and in this configuration, it’s one of the most serious competitors on the market in the small crossover class.

Which engines do I recommend? 1.0 TSI with 110 or 115 horsepower for petrol and 1.6 TDI with 116 horsepower for diesel. Simple as that. And keep it simple as that.

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Launched in 2009 as the successor to the Roomster, the Skoda Yeti was an electric shock to the car world. Surely when you look at the Skoda Yeti you don’t think of it as a rival to the Qashqai or the Rav4 or that it’s actually a Skoda Tiguan. And that’s in the moments when you can look at it. Although I don’t quite understand why there’s so much hate for the Skoda Yeti as if it were Amy Schumer and personally I like the Yeti and I even see it as a small utility SUV rather than an tarmac crossover.

And that’s because you really need the love of a mother to look it at and buy it in favor of it’s predecessor Skoda Roomster. It’s a practical car, it’s more than enough for most people’s ideea of off-roading​, and it’s also reasonably reliable. Seriously now, a Yeti 2.0 TDI 4×4 manual could be all the crossover you need, you just have to stop being a true chav and leave snobbery aside because your rear end is too expensive for a Skoda.

Skoda Yeti Engines

Petrol

• 1.2 TSI EA111 of 105 and 110 horsepower – By far the weakest engine on the Skoda Yeti and one of VW’s worst engines altogether. It neither runs well, nor is it reliable, nor is it economical. Having this engine is like having someone constantly whispering in your ear reminding you of the mistake you made.
• 1.4 TSI EA111 and EA211 of 122, 125, and 150 horsepower – We’ll discuss these TSI engines in general issues as well, so I’ll just say that the 150 horsepower 1.4 TSI is the most balanced engine on the Yeti and the best city engine.
• 1.6 MPI EA211 of 110 horsepower – The only naturally aspirated engine on the list, a relic from another era and quite reliable but rather hard to find. It only needs coil packs and sometimes it may burn oil, but nothing spectacular.
• 1.8 TSI EA888 of 150 and 160 horsepower – If the 1.2 TSI is a weak engine in terms of reliability, wait until you see the 1.8 TSI. However, you won’t see the 1.8 TSI on the Skoda Yeti. It’s like putting John Goodman in the Olympic Games in the 800-meter race and giving him a real chance of winning.

Diesel

• 1.6 TDI EA189 of 105 horsepower – By far the most popular engine on the Skoda Yeti and beyond, this engine can be absolutely decent or it can be a mechanical failure. The issue is that it’s a decent engine externally but very weak in the city. Oh, and the EGR valve doesn’t clean, it just gets replaced, along with the DPF, injectors, flywheel, and others. So keep it away from the city.
• 2.0 TDI EA189 and EA288 of 110, 140, 150, and 170 horsepower – The village’s bicycle, the 2.0 TDI. From Passat to Golf to Tiguan to Octavia to A6, they would mount the 2.0 TDI even on the Q7 if they could. Otherwise, it has the same issues as the 1.6 TDI, except it’s more resilient and won’t break down AS often.

Skoda Yeti Reliability Issues

• I’ll start with the TSI engines, namely that TSI engines have oil consumption issues. Which is all of them. And then you have the TSI engines with timing chain that needs replacing every 3rd engine start. VW rectified the issue and switched to timing belt, anywhere between 2013 and 2015 because they officially declared it in 2013 but there are still 2014 models with timing chain so make sure to ask about it.
• The DSG automatic gearbox is a permanent guest on the mechanic’s ti-do list due to its well-known reliability issues. So all you can do is change the oil every 37,000 miles / 60,000 kms (for those with wet clutches) and pray that the Mechatronic unit won’t fail too soon. Because the Mechatronic unit fails even on DSGs with dry clutches.
• The radiator is mounted low and can catch stones in front, and that’s a real issue for which you can’t do anything except get a grille with smaller slots.
• The paint swells around the plastic door handles.
• Among Skoda Yeti owners, some snobs ticked the panoramic roof as an option. And because we don’t tolerate people who are wealthier than us, water seeps through the panoramic roof and leaves you with a puddle at your feet.
• The air conditioning compressor runs out of air as if it’s hooked on Ventolin, and when it inevitably dies, you’ll be left without air.

Skoda Yeti Verdict

This car was supposed to go head-to-head with the Qashqai and the Rav4, but it seems it was more of a rival for the Tiguan. But fortunately for the Tiguan, no one bought the Skoda Yeti because it was too ugly. But if appearance doesn’t matter to you or it’s not that ugly (for me, it isn’t), then you possibly have the best undercover 4×4 crossover, both in terms of reliability and what it can do.